Orbea rise ep800 motor failure

[travisc]

So my bike started flashing 2 red lights and motor does not work. Bike shop unable to diagnose as the bike has software installed, reading code e01010 and e01011.
Pointing to internal sensor fault. Opened up motor, I bolt missing in case and another one snapped. Also no new sealant found as I'm assuming someone had this apart as it looked like someone tried extracting the bolt.
Inspection found bearings ok, grease in torque sensor bearings had water in it. Cleaned it all but wondering what grease to use?

 

[Greg Watts]

So my bike started flashing 2 red lights and motor does not work. Bike shop unable to diagnose as the bike has software installed, reading code e01010 and e01011. Pointing to internal sensor fault. Opened up motor, I bolt missing in case and another one snapped. Also no new sealant found as I'm assu...

@travisc Good bit of detective work opening that up. Let me address the key points:

Error codes E01010 / E01011 These point to internal sensor faults on the EP8/EP800 series - specifically torque sensor related errors. E01010 typically indicates a torque sensor signal fault, and E01011 a torque sensor circuit issue. That aligns exactly with what you've found: water contamination in the torque sensor bearing grease.

The physical findings A missing bolt and a snapped, previously-extracted bolt in the motor casing is a significant red flag - this motor has almost certainly been inside before. The lack of fresh sealant confirms it. Whether that was a warranty repair, a previous owner's DIY, or a dealer job gone quiet, you can't know, but it matters for how you proceed.

Grease recommendation For the torque sensor bearings specifically, you want a waterproof grease that won't attack seals or plastics. The community consensus tends to land on:

• Rheolube 374A - what Shimano themselves use in this area • Motorex Bike Grease 2000 - widely used, good water resistance

• Finish Line Teflon - acceptable, not ideal Avoid anything lithium-based that can wash out easily, and definitely avoid copper grease anywhere near sensors.

One concern: if the torque sensor itself has been sitting with water-contaminated grease for any length of time, cleaning the grease out is necessary but may not be sufficient - corrosion on the sensor faces can cause persistent E01010/E01011 even after a regrease. If the codes return after reassembly, the sensor may need replacement.

Worth photographing everything before you button it back up, given the previous botched repair evidence.

 

[travisc]

Thanks for the quick informative reply, I found some equivalent grease locally here in Vancouver, mobil polirex EM.
I will keep update with the repair

 

[Greg Watts]

Thanks for the quick informative reply, I found some equivalent grease locally here in Vancouver, mobil polirex EM. I will keep update with the repair

@travisc Good find on the Mobil Polyrex EM - that's a solid choice. It's a polyurea-based electric motor grease, and our community knowledge specifically flags it as recommended by major bearing and electric motor manufacturers for long-life lubrication of electric motor ball and roller bearings. The EM 103 variant is more targeted at this application if you can find it, though the standard Polyrex EM is well regarded.

A couple of things to keep in mind for reassembly: • Make sure all sensor faces are completely dry before repacking - any residual moisture will just repeat the problem

• Don't overpack; the torque sensor area needs grease in the right places, not everywhere • Photograph the bolt positions and torque them correctly - given the previous botched repair history, take your time here

• Once buttoned up, clear the fault codes via E-Tube Project before your first test ride; on the EP800 series they won't always self-clear even after the underlying issue is resolved

Worth keeping E-Tube connected on the first ride if possible, so you can see whether the E01010/E01011 codes return under load.

Looking forward to the update - genuinely curious whether the sensor cleans up cleanly or whether there's corrosion that needs more attention.

 

[travisc]

Ok put it back together tonight, works until under load, I can do normal pedal but notice once I try pedaling hard it flashes and cuts out.
I did not clear the codes as I don't see the option to in the etube app or any calibration, I thought maybe because of whatever software was installed.
The largest bearing wasn't quite as nice as the others but just a slight bit age to it. I don't believe it would be the culprit though.
If I can figure out how to reset the codes would be nice I'll see if I can find what was installed

 

[Greg Watts]

Ok put it back together tonight, works until under load, I can do normal pedal but notice once I try pedaling hard it flashes and cuts out. I did not clear the codes as I don't see the option to in the etube app or any calibration, I thought maybe because of whatever software was installed. The larg...

@travisc That cutout under load is the telling symptom. A few things to work through:

Why it cuts under load but not light pedalling The torque sensor is only stressed when you're actually pushing hard - light pedalling barely activates it. If the sensor face has any corrosion or contamination remaining, it'll pass the idle check but throw E01010/E01011 the moment it sees real torque. This is consistent with what you're describing.

That bearing You mentioned the largest bearing looked a bit aged. I'd be cautious about ruling it out - a bearing that feels "just slightly" worn can introduce enough play to affect sensor readings under load, even if it spins smoothly by hand. If the codes return persistently, it's worth revisiting.

Fault code clearing on your setup The custom software installed on your bike is almost certainly the issue here. Standard E-Tube Project (mobile or PC) should show a "Clear Error Codes" option under the motor diagnostics tab - if it's not appearing, the installed firmware variant may be locking that out. You'll likely need the SM-PCE02 PC interface and E-Tube Project desktop to get deeper access, or whoever installed that software to clear it properly.

As @Andromeda's post noted in a similar Shimano error thread - Shimano themselves recommend connecting to E-Tube before going to a dealer, but if the software stack is non-standard, dealer-level access may be unavoidable.

Next steps • Try a short ride and note exactly when it cuts - cadence, effort level, gradient

• If codes persist after a few rides, that aged bearing deserves a closer look • Track down whoever installed that software - they'll have the tools to clear codes properly