Opinion on Orbea changing cranks for cheaper than spec

BobR

Member
Apr 14, 2021
157
72
Florida
Thanks Volts, what do you think they did wrong that is causing the chain ring to Mo with the back pedal so I make sure to avoid it?
 

Ducman71

Member
Apr 8, 2021
97
66
Orange County, CA
Just finally got around to pulling off the e*13 alloys (which I never actually had a problem with) and installing the FC-EM900 arms. For anyone else yet to do this, one thing I noticed that I have not seen mentioned here yet is that there is not sufficient clearance to get a hex drive socket and torque wrench on the inner-most of the two pinch bolts on the right (drive) side arm. The chainring prevents anything longer than the short end of an allen key going straight into the head of the bolt when the crank arm is fully seated on the spindle. Proper torque on these bolts is important, but on that one the only option is to go by feel.
 

volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
331
254
DK
Just finally got around to pulling off the e*13 alloys (which I never actually had a problem with) and installing the FC-EM900 arms. For anyone else yet to do this, one thing I noticed that I have not seen mentioned here yet is that there is not sufficient clearance to get a hex drive socket and torque wrench on the inner-most of the two pinch bolts on the right (drive) side arm. The chainring prevents anything longer than the short end of an allen key going straight into the head of the bolt when the crank arm is fully seated on the spindle. Proper torque on these bolts is important, but on that one the only option is to go by feel.
Or you can get a socket style piece to make it long enough to use the torque tool.
 

Ducman71

Member
Apr 8, 2021
97
66
Orange County, CA
Or you can get a socket style piece to make it long enough to use the torque tool.
Can you post an image of what you are thinking? The problem is that the inner pinch bolt is essentially on the same plane as the chainring, so the only space to get straight down into the head of the bolt is to use a short key and approach it from the space between the 'spokes' of the chain ring. The chainring itself is slightly dished (convex), and the head of the inner pinch bolt sits basically on the chainline of the chainring, so there is no way to get a longer hex bit straight onto the bolt...
 

Tribanas

Member
Jul 13, 2021
28
15
Portugal
Given the uncertainty of when e*thirteen will be able to supply a crank that’s 100% compatible with this motor, we are contacting you about delivering a new set of top-of-the-range Shimano FC-EM900 cranks, the best available cranks on the market for this motor model. We want to ensure you have a reliable, high-quality product as soon as possible so that you can continue to enjoy your bike.



Oh man... So they are admitting e*13 cranks are not to be trusted, even aluminium ones...
Good to know thanks for sharing
 

volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
331
254
DK
Can you post an image of what you are thinking? The problem is that the inner pinch bolt is essentially on the same plane as the chainring, so the only space to get straight down into the head of the bolt is to use a short key and approach it from the space between the 'spokes' of the chain ring. The chainring itself is slightly dished (convex), and the head of the inner pinch bolt sits basically on the chainline of the chainring, so there is no way to get a longer hex bit straight onto the bolt...
It's not perfectly square in there, but it's the best I could make work.

IMG_2481.jpg


View attachment 84734

IMG_2480.jpg
 
Last edited:

BobR

Member
Apr 14, 2021
157
72
Florida
Hmm I don't know of a yt vid, but it's not hard.

1) unscrew the bolts (i blieve it's a 4mm hex key)
2) take out the outer most screw completely (you will see why later)
3) undo and remove the inner plastic preload thing. You need a somewhat special tool for this.
4) flip the little black plastic tap up, the one that sits at the crank in the little crack. You won't be able to do this unless you completely remove the outer most screw.
5) take off the crank arm. Inspect for damage, clean and grease.
6) put on crank arm
7) flip the plastic thing down again
8) insert screw, but do not tighten
9) preload the arm with the round plastic thing that needs a special tool. finger tighten it.
10) tighten the 2 4mm hex key bolts alternately to 14 nm, revisit each bolt a few times alternately.
So I followed the instructions exactly and used a very large flat head screw driver for the preload cap and removed the e13 dust cover and it works perfectly!
 

Ducman71

Member
Apr 8, 2021
97
66
Orange County, CA
@volts Is that a Shimano spider/chainring? If so, I wonder if the chainline is slightly different (more inboard) than that of the original e*13 ring. Here is a pic looking straight down onto the inner pinch bolt on my bike; the chainring overlaps about half of the bolt head. Even using a socket with a long hex bit (i.e. a smaller diameter against the chainring than the extension you are using) and with the chain off, it's not possible to get straight enough onto the bolt, especially at the torque required.

IMG_5286.jpg
 

BobR

Member
Apr 14, 2021
157
72
Florida
@volts Is that a Shimano spider/chainring? If so, I wonder if the chainline is slightly different (more inboard) than that of the original e*13 ring. Here is a pic looking straight down onto the inner pinch bolt on my bike; the chainring overlaps about half of the bolt head. Even using a socket with a long hex bit (i.e. a smaller diameter against the chainring than the extension you are using) and with the chain off, it's not possible to get straight enough onto the bolt, especially at the torque required.

View attachment 84866
My tourque wrench set came with this and I did not even have to remove the chain

image.jpg
 

Ducman71

Member
Apr 8, 2021
97
66
Orange County, CA
@BobR Thanks. I'm using the same kind of hex driver. Yes the hex can be made to go into the head of the bolt, but not straight on, and because of the angle, the hex does not go in far enough to seat fully in the head of the bolt. You can see the angle of the tool relative to the chain guide for reference. Applying 14nm of torque like this is a good way to round off the bolt head hex...

IMG_5296.jpg
 

volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
331
254
DK
Yes mine doesn't go perfectly square down the slot either, but I have had the arm off 4-5 times and torqued it to spec every time and no round bolt yet (knock on wood).
 

Garryy

New Member
Sep 7, 2022
2
0
USA
Each bike build has a designated crankset type that works to give riders optimal performance. Mtb employ single crankset technology. With the single-ring crankset, there are fewer moving components in the machine. It provides a lighter bike weight advantageous for mtb riders climbing on specific terrains. Also, fewer adjustments are needed without the front derailleur and shifter, making the bike ride noncomplex.
 

BengtWeil

New Member
Sep 17, 2022
21
3
California, USA
@BobR Thanks. I'm using the same kind of hex driver. Yes the hex can be made to go into the head of the bolt, but not straight on, and because of the angle, the hex does not go in far enough to seat fully in the head of the bolt. You can see the angle of the tool relative to the chain guide for reference. Applying 14nm of torque like this is a good way to round off the bolt head hex...

View attachment 84873
Here's another possible option that seems to work pretty well, given the angle of approach to tighten/loosen the crank bolt closest to the chainring -
1664383496030.png
 
Last edited:

neilo

Member
Jan 25, 2022
50
21
Australia
Just finally got around to pulling off the e*13 alloys (which I never actually had a problem with) and installing the FC-EM900 arms. For anyone else yet to do this, one thing I noticed that I have not seen mentioned here yet is that there is not sufficient clearance to get a hex drive socket and torque wrench on the inner-most of the two pinch bolts on the right (drive) side arm. The chainring prevents anything longer than the short end of an allen key going straight into the head of the bolt when the crank arm is fully seated on the spindle. Proper torque on these bolts is important, but on that one the only option is to go by feel.
I agree this is problematic. Like the other posters who replied, I've used extended bits in my torque wrench, but it does still interfere at the chain ring and won't go in straight. I don't trust that the friction between the bit and the chain ring isn't invalidating the torque amount either. I've been resorting to comparing the feel using a regular L shaped hex key (a nice long one helps get the feel right) vs the outer one after I've torqued it up.
 

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