Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[TopUnit]

OK, Just for fun I've created an animation of the Locknut installation, showing the use of the installation sleeve, and showing the seal that I've been talking about.

Again this is from my CAD model so there could be inaccuracies.
If the seal doesn't look right please post a photo so I can correct it

EDIT: I edited the video to say that the main purpose is to align the seal so that it slides on to the shaft without damage

 

[ciro]

Thanks for the animation. I thought the sleeve was to protect the seal when using the 20spline tightening tool. That makes more sense.

I don't think it's that critical as long as your careful getting it over the splines, still be nice to have though.

 

[TopUnit]

Thanks for the animation. I thought the sleeve was to protect the seal when using the 20spline tightening tool. That makes more sense.

I don't think it's that critical as long as your careful getting it over the splines, still be nice to have though.

Thanks, glad that was helpful

Yeh, the seal shouldn't be damaged by the 20 tooth tool since it only touches the robust back face of the seal.

EDITED:
I don't think the splines on the shaft are the main concern.
The purpose appears to be to get the seal safely over the lip where the shaft transitions to round.
The sleeve ensures that the seal is aligned correctly and expanded slightly so that it will slide unimpeded onto the shaft avoiding possible damage.

The seal is important so if you haven't got the installation sleeve, I'd get one, then it's just a matter of using it rather than having to guess if it is necessary or not (but I'm very conservative)
If the bike didn't come with one then you'd expect Trek would give you one at no cost.

 

[KevinNY]

I was curious about what the seal on the lockring looked like, so for those wondering, here's a real picture I took.

It looks like there's also a retaining band (spring?) around the seal.

 

[TopUnit]

I was curious about what the seal on the lockring looked like, so for those wondering, here's a real picture I took.

It looks like there's also a retaining band around the seal.

View attachment 105999

Excellent Thank-you! First time I have seen the real seal.
This looks like a standard oil seal, which is basically what I have drawn in my CAD model, so I'm happy about that.
I can't make out the retaining band that you pointed out. The ring pointed to is just the outer part of the seal.
The silver ring is a spring band that helps keep the seal pressed against the shaft.
Here's a cross section of a typical oil seal

 

[KevinNY]

Excellent Thank-you! First time I have seen the real seal.
This looks like a standard oil seal, which is basically what I have drawn in my CAD model, so I'm happy about that.
I can't make out the retaining band that you pointed out. The ring pointed to is just the outer part of the seal.
The silver ring is a spring band that helps keep the seal pressed against the shaft.
Here's a cross section of a typical oil seal

View attachment 106000

You are right, I had the arrow pointed to the wrong location to show the band (spring). It was early in the morning, and I didn't have my caffeine drink yet. LOL. I edited the post and fixed it.

Nice illustration.

 

[ciro]

6 February 2023

youtube.com

Just a video of the display unit being whack. Every day is a different problem...firstly it would just turn itself back on randomly, next day it wouldn't turn back on at all (had to put the charger in to trigger it to turn on), few days of normal operation now it just cycles on and off.

I think my shop has processed a warranty on it, will see how long it takes.

Such a hassle for a bike with only 150km.

 

[DugT]

Just joined the thread about your creaking. Have you had it sorted. I have a similar noise and found the bearings in the chain stay were binding. Took it in and they replaced them but it seems the chain stay holes are too small and when the bearings are pressed in they bind up. Has to be bad manufacturing and I am waiting for a new chain stay.
Easiest way to tell is remove the rear wheel and stick your finger in the chain stay hole and see if the bearings move freely.

Thanks for the info. I've never heard creaking from this bike. My LBS mech said he heard creaking and that is why he over tightened my shock bolt.

 

[Free_Tibet]

Thanks for the info. I've never heard creaking from this bike. My LBS mech said he heard creaking and that is why he over tightened my shock bolt.

Hi all. Does anyone know what increased torque value is ok to go up to for the shock bolts... without stripping, damaging or snapping any bolts etc.? Thanks.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I’m picking up a Penny Flake 9.7, from the bike shop that my girlfriend runs. I’m going to buy matching shock and fork graphics from Slick Graphics. For the shock there is a choice between long or short shock length graphics. I was thinking the graphic for the long shock length would probably fit. Does anyone know if the Fox shock on the 9.7 is considered long or short?

 

[Swingset]

Hi all. Does anyone know what increased torque value is ok to go up to for the shock bolts... without stripping, damaging or snapping any bolts etc.? Thanks.

I had the Trek dealer creep up onto 17nm until my lower bolt stopped slipping. Had them document it as well.

 

[socal_rider]

I had the Trek dealer creep up onto 17nm until my lower bolt stopped slipping. Had them document it as well.

I had 17 Nm come loose after a month or so. So far 18 Nm has worked for a couple of months.

 

[playboater15]

My bike (9.7 in black/silver) has developed play in the lower shock bushing after approx 100km of riding. Initiated warranty today with BS, and they said straight away that it's now a known fault. The mechanic's response was almost instantaneous when I told him the model, as it seems like it's become a flagged up issue with Trek. Let's hope for a simple and smooth warranty process!

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Is it OK to blue Loctite the shock bolts?

 

[njatherton]

Is it OK to blue Loctite the shock bolts?







If you look at the online service manual it indicates (in blue) which bolts need threadlock and which (in yellow) need grease.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

OK, thank you. I pick mine up today. I tried opening the service manual on the Trek website. But, it would not open. I would think by now, all torque updates would have been completed at the factory.

 

[Swingset]

Highly doubt it. If I was you, I would check the cable routing at the bottom of the dropper. Mine was all goofed up. Not sure if it was the factory or the dealer. Check everything for that matter.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Highly doubt it. If I was you, I would check the cable routing at the bottom of the dropper. Mine was all goofed up. Not sure if it was the factory or the dealer. Check everything for that matter.

@Canyon Shawn I'd check closely for that lockring seal brought up previously (post #1603), and make sure you get the protective sleeve mentioned in those same posts. You should be able to see the lockring seal between the lockring and BB spindle. If they're not included, at least get them on order. I found the Trek service manuals wouldn't open on my phone/ipad, but I could save the files, or I could open them in desktop web browsers.

@playboater15 Just my theory, could be wrong. The shock hardware issue seems to be unique to the 9.7 or at least Fox Shocks. My Rockshox hardware has been fine. This is why I suspect the issue is the tolerance between the Igus bushings and the shock hardware, not with the shock bolt. If it was me, I'd take the bike to a good shop and try swapping the Igus bushing out for a bronze DU bushing like Rockshox uses. $5 experiment. On my bike (now with an Ohlins shock) the Igus bushings were sloppy but the standard bronze DU bushings have worked great.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

One thing I do know, is the two guys that build bikes at the shop are as good as it gets. My girlfriend runs the shop, and I know them personally. So I’m very confident the bike will be built perfectly.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Guys, do you think a Penny flake 9.7 would look good with red ano parts? I have Penny flake graphics coming for the fork and the shock. I think the fork looks terrible with black graphics on a black fork. I’m trying to decide what color parts would look good. I don’t like gold. And black is too boring.

 

[Cell4soul]

Guys, do you think a Penny flake 9.7 would look good with red ano parts? I have Penny flake graphics coming for the fork and the shock. I think the fork looks terrible with black graphics on a black fork. I’m trying to decide what color parts would look good. I don’t like gold. And black is too boring.

purple looks really cool against that color. I did that on my wife’s Juliana Furtado, which was the same color as Penny Flake.

 

[playboater15]

Looks like Fox are sending out 39.88mm hardware for a 40x8 mount bike. Warranty seems a quick replacement, BS are sending me a Burgtec bushing to sort the problem as Fox don't have any 40x8... Can't imagine why not Quick fix! Btw mullet medium, 2.6 DHR on the back and offset bushing, got the BB up to 328mm which seems to me to be much more tolerable than 2.4 rear and normal bushing at approx 320mm.

 

[Swingset]

40mm is just a reference number. If Trek is trying to hold 40mm on the inside dimension of the lower shock mount then the shock bushing needs to be some agreed upon width less than 40mm to install consistently with manufacturing tolerances. 39.88mm (1.570") 40mm (1.575") results in a .005" gap to get the shock bushing inside the frame. The bolt should compress the gap out and clamp the bushing, the number seems reasonable to me. The metal fitting molded in the frame seems way too stiff to me and requires more torque to get it to clamp up. Also note that the molding of the carbon and paint in the fitting one the frame are not the cleanest.

We use diamond crusted friction shims in my line of work that would be really hard to install but would completely solve this problem. They are spendy however. May have to see If I can sneak one in and see if its a solution.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

It’s new 9.7 bike day. I rode it about 5 miles home before it got dark, with the default app setting. I noticed the motor seems to give more power at a certain cadence. So, you can kinda chase that cadence up through the gears. I like it!

 

[senergy]

Looks like Fox are sending out 39.88mm hardware for a 40x8 mount bike. Warranty seems a quick replacement, BS are sending me a Burgtec bushing to sort the problem as Fox don't have any 40x8... Can't imagine why not Quick fix! Btw mullet medium, 2.6 DHR on the back and offset bushing, got the BB up to 328mm which seems to me to be much more tolerable than 2.4 rear and normal bushing at approx 320mm.

I followed up my Trek Service Manager, no eta for replacement fox parts for me, and no offer of any other possible fix.

 

[playboater15]

I followed up my Trek Service Manager, no eta for replacement fox parts for me, and no offer of any other possible fix.

I would just buy a standard one from burgtec or offsetbushings if you're in the UK and get yourself back out on the trail!

 

[senergy]

I would just buy a standard one from burgtec or offsetbushings if you're in the UK and get yourself back out on the trail!

what part would I be looking for?

 

[playboater15]

what part would I be looking for?

Standard Bushing

Available for any frame / shock combination. Centre drilled shock bushings. Direct replacement for standard shock hardware. Includes DU bush.

www.offsetbushings.com

 

[Emailsucks98]

what part would I be looking for?

Per the Trek website, 40mm x 8mm pin mount lower. Suggest replacing the shock bushing with a bronze bushing while you are at it. Have a shop do the labor if you aren't familiar.

These shock hardware threads are making me very thankful my town has such awesome bike shops. There's at least 3 that could diagnose and fix these issues same-day.