Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Mteam]

I did a ride today and recorded it on my garmin fenix 6 pro watch and used the trek central app to record the ride at the same time.

The garmin said the ride was 1700 feet of elevation, the trek central app said 2600feet of elevation.

I know the garmin is mostly accurate because it uses its barometric pressure sensor to calculate altitude,whereas i presume the trek app uses data embedded in the maps.

I was just surprised at how inaccurate the trek app was in terms of altitude. I guess it will vary from location to location due to it using different map data sources.

 

[BobMtnBkr]

I did a ride today and recorded it on my garmin fenix 6 pro watch and used the trek central app to record the ride at the same time.

The garmin said the ride was 1700 feet of elevation, the trek central app said 2600feet of elevation.

I know the garmin is mostly accurate because it uses its barometric pressure sensor to calculate altitude,whereas i presume the trek app uses data embedded in the maps.

I was just surprised at how inaccurate the trek app was in terms of altitude. I guess it will vary from location to location due to it using different map data sources.

The mileage numbers on my Rail’s Kiox varies greatly from my Garmin’s mileage numbers. Something like 10 miles on one reads 13 miles on the other… I’ll have to bounce them off strava numbers.

 

[az2au]

from what I am reading regarding the e13 chainring it is compatible with 11/12 speed speed systems so if moving to AXS (RD/controller) it would be only require a cassette and chain from the same manufacturer i.e. sram eagle/chain or shimano cassette/chain. also the rear freehub to match the cassette of course.

This is correct or at least it is possible with no obvious immediate impacts. I'm running that now. I have the matching SRAM crankset/chainring sitting in my garage closet but decided not to install it yet after taking a test ride with the cassette and derailleur only installed. I may change my mind later but I doubt I could tell the difference. It might matter more to someone far more skilled than me.

NB: I could easily be wrong and there could be wear implications that I don't know about. @Cell4soul is generally full of great info and seems far more experienced than I am.

 

[az2au]

I did a ride today and recorded it on my garmin fenix 6 pro watch and used the trek central app to record the ride at the same time.

The garmin said the ride was 1700 feet of elevation, the trek central app said 2600feet of elevation.

I know the garmin is mostly accurate because it uses its barometric pressure sensor to calculate altitude,whereas i presume the trek app uses data embedded in the maps.

I was just surprised at how inaccurate the trek app was in terms of altitude. I guess it will vary from location to location due to it using different map data sources.

I would think it has to be a map issue. Generally my Trek and Garmin apps are within an acceptable tolerance, e.g. last ride on Garmin says 23.69 miles with 1,030' ascent, Trek app says 23.7 Miles with 998' ascent.

 

[BobMtnBkr]

My Fuel is brand new. How do I recall data from my last ride? My Trek app dashboard now reads 14.3 miles on odo and 6 hours. But I’ve only ridden it once. My Garmin reads 8.03 miles @ 1:06:36 and Strava reads 8.03 miles @ 1:05:55 from my one and only ride. What is 14.3 miles and 6 hours on the app???

 

[BobMtnBkr]

Ridewrap in Canada. They will mail it out immediately.

Just wrapped mine. Third bike wrapped in Ridewrap this year. Came out ok...

 

[az2au]

My Fuel is brand new. How do I recall data from my last ride? My Trek app dashboard now reads 14.3 miles on odo and 6 hours. But I’ve only ridden it once. My Garmin reads 8.03 miles @ 1:06:36 and Strava reads 8.03 miles @ 1:05:55 from my one and only ride. What is 14.3 miles and 6 hours on the app???

Anything you record should be under the history tab.

 

[Emailsucks98]

I know the garmin is mostly accurate because it uses its barometric pressure sensor to calculate altitude,whereas i presume the trek app uses data embedded in the maps.

I find phone GPS App tracking to be pretty inaccurate in general. Aside from pulling elevation from GPS data, phones also seem to have a pretty low sample rate and of course, poor battery life. I was using a Garmin Edge 530 previously (mainly because it gave me battery % for my shimano motor) but just went to a Garmin Fenix 6 pro as well. The TQ Motor shares a lot more useful data. It’s pretty awesome with the Garmin and the eBike Field widget! Like being able to see battery usage (blue) over elevation (green, below).

Overall loving the bike although, if I could do it over I would have just gotten a base model. Not many parts surviving from the 9.8 build. Loving the Ohlins Shock and 35mm rise bar. King microspline hub driver and XT shifter both had issues, back to SRAM for me. Temporarily on full 29” in high setting. Good fun in the snow today!

Oh also! I stopped by the local TREK deal today. Found that the battery handle/End pieces are not included with the battery I ordered, but they are only $10 each end.

 

[TopUnit]

I recently got a little obsessed with understanding how the HPR50 worked
I ended up making a full 3D cad model
Might be interesting to some of you

 

[DugT]

I recently got a little obsessed with understanding how the HPR50 worked
I ended up making a full 3D cad model
Might be interesting to some of you

This post should win an award, maybe for best post of 2022.

 

[towzer]

“
I recently got a little obsessed with understanding how the HPR50 worked
I ended up making a full 3D cad model
Might be interesting to some of you”

wow, awesome,

 

[Mteam]

I recently got a little obsessed with understanding how the HPR50 worked
I ended up making a full 3D cad model
Might be interesting to some of you

Very good,but how did you get all the specs and info on the component parts? Did you pull your own motor apart,oris the info all in the public domain?

 

[BobMtnBkr]

Anything you record should be under the history tab.

My Trek Central app lists "no recorded rides" under history. So I have to manually start something each ride? My Rail kept track of milage automatically.

 

[njatherton]

My Trek Central app lists "no recorded rides" under history. So I have to manually start something each ride? My Rail kept track of milage automatically.

Yes

 

[Mteam]

My Trek Central app lists "no recorded rides" under history. So I have to manually start something each ride? My Rail kept track of milage automatically.

The tq motor does track mileage automatically,but you can only view the mileage using the trek central app ( or the tq motor app), on the "ready to ride" page,scroll down and the mileage the bike has covered is shown, along with the hours the motor has been switched on(including any charging time). You dont have to do anything for this odometer to work. Ie if the motor is switched on then it is tracking how many miles you have ridden.

If you want to record the details of a ride (ie the gps track for where you went,plus stats like motor power,human power, altitude gain etc) then you need to manually 'record' the ride using the trek central app, ie start it at the beginning of the ride,and stop it at the end. Ie it works in a simialr way to recording a ride using Strava

 

[Shades]

My Fuel is brand new. How do I recall data from my last ride? My Trek app dashboard now reads 14.3 miles on odo and 6 hours. But I’ve only ridden it once. My Garmin reads 8.03 miles @ 1:06:36 and Strava reads 8.03 miles @ 1:05:55 from my one and only ride. What is 14.3 miles and 6 hours on the app???

The Odo is only showing total ride and hours. For example, my 9.7 has 15km, but I've only ridden 10.2. However, the LBS had it built, so there's probably been a few test rides.

 

[Pakere]

Hello,

I'm selling a Fuel exe 9.7, size L, if you are interested, please check here:
2023 Trek Fuel EX-e 9.7 e-bike, size L For Sale

 

[Emailsucks98]

I recently got a little obsessed with understanding how the HPR50 worked

Amazing, well done!
I’m curious if you have any comments about the sealing of the motor?
The service manuals note about potentially damaging the seal on the lockring freaked me out, since that seal wasn’t visible from the outside. Fewer moving parts and good sealing was something that got me excited about the TQ motor.

 

[az2au]

My Trek Central app lists "no recorded rides" under history. So I have to manually start something each ride? My Rail kept track of milage automatically.

There’s a setting that will automatically record as long as you switch to “Ready to ride” shown in this screenshot

 

[TopUnit]

Very good,but how did you get all the specs and info on the component parts? Did you pull your own motor apart,oris the info all in the public domain?

I did it all by scaling it from the various videos and images on the internet. It wasn't easy, I spent a lot of time looking at small fuzzy details on images trying to work out what they were and what they were for. In the end I think I have it pretty close, but it is definitely not perfect.
Scaling wise I read somewhere that the crank shaft width was 135mm so that was my starting point. Also the bearings started working out to standard sizes so that gave me confidence that I was on the right track (all 68xx series except for one 69xx). Eventually I even found an image with a fuzzy marking on a bearing that matched the bearing number I chose, eureka!
I doubt I will ever have a motor to pull apart so I may never know how close it is, but it was a fun journey anyway and I went from novice 3D CAD skills to novice+1.

 

[TopUnit]

Amazing, well done!
I’m curious if you have any comments about the sealing of the motor?
The service manuals note about potentially damaging the seal on the lockring freaked me out, since that seal wasn’t visible from the outside. Fewer moving parts and good sealing was something that got me excited about the TQ motor.

It looks like the lip on the shaft could damage the seal during reassembly. The sleeve recommended by Trek would allow the seal to slide over the lip without getting caught and possibly damaged or flexed in the wrong way.

Interestingly, that part of the service supplement was were I learnt that there was an oring and seal attached to the lock ring, up until then I had no idea they were there, so that was one of the many clues I found that helped me complete the CAD model.

I've shown the lockring seals below. You can also see the other seals and gaskets in this section drawing (assuming I've got them right)

 

[Gd3fit]

Remove the cassette was no issue. It is normal. Removing the end cap from the Shimamo hub was the hard part. I’m used to seeing a flat part and the through axel was perfectly round. I was confused by that and had to ask someone that really knows what they are doing. This resulted in me buying yet another tool (smooth jaw channellocks) that I didn’t already have. No matter how many tools I have there is seemingly a new one required every time I want to change something.

Note: I’m not exactly highly experienced in mountain bike maintenance but I’m used to doing my own maintenance for most everything because I enjoy it. I’m sure someone more experienced would just know what to do immediately.

You absolutely need an end cap and I just stopped in at an LBS to get the driver and springs/pawls.

I assume you have the bontrager hug with microspline, how did you get the end cap off? Normally these perfectly round ones pull right off (like the DT Swiss) I cannot for the life of me yank it off, even in a vice and pulling up on the wheel lol. How did you use the smooth channel lock to remove it?

And you mention needing a a new end cap, which makes senses since I am finding that microspline uses a longer end cap than an XD freehub. I'm trying to mullet and have a DT Swiss microspline freehub that came in but it didn't include an endcap! the DT Swiss XD endcap is too short. Now I need to source an endcap and want to see if the bontrager one will fit but I can't pull it off! lol

Yes, I have multiple sets of rear wheels with SRAM XD and Shimano Microspline and it's the same whip and cassette lockring tool.

If you are looking for the XD Hub, this is the hub:

Bontrager Rapid Drive 11/12-Speed XD Driver Body - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Bodies. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

You might need a new end cap. I'll see if I can pull the end cap from my Shimano and SRAM wheel to compare but I think they are different on the drive side.

Bontrager Rapid Drive 6-Bolt 12mm Drive Side Axle End Cap - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 End Caps. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

The hub doesn't come with the pawls and springs. If you don't plan to transfer your existing pawls and springs over, you can buy new ones. Note you'll need 6 Pawls and 6 springs to get the 108 tool engagement:

Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawls - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawls. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawl Springs - Trek Bikes

Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawl Springs. Find the best gear at trekbikes.com and your local Trek retailer. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

How do you remove the end cap? I've pulled so hard even with arag and pliers and everything and it doesn't pop out as easy as the DT Swiss end caps do. wtf?

 

[Emailsucks98]

It looks like the lip on the shaft could damage the seal during reassembly. The sleeve recommended by Trek would allow the seal to slide over the lip without getting caught and possibly damaged or flexed in the wrong way

Very interesting, thanks and great graphics. Curious to what software you’re using, solidworks or inventor maybe?

So anyways, I’ve had my lockring off (hunting down the creek that ended up being my Chris King hub driver) and the shaft seal did not come out with it. My assumption was that, without the Trek’s sleeve tool, the Isis/Octalink tool could deform/tear some internal motor sealing. Your explanation makes more sense, and also makes me feel better about not having (or having used) the sleeve tool.

 

[TopUnit]

Very interesting, thanks and great graphics. Curious to what software you’re using, solidworks or inventor maybe?

So anyways, I’ve had my lockring off (hunting down the creek that ended up being my Chris King hub driver) and the shaft seal did not come out with it. My assumption was that, without the Trek’s sleeve tool, the Isis/Octalink tool could deform/tear some internal motor sealing. Your explanation makes more sense, and also makes me feel better about not having (or having used) the sleeve tool.

I used Fusion 360 to draw this (free hobbyist licence)
You said the seal didn't come out with the lock ring, my understanding is that the seal as well s the oring should be attached to the locknut, so that is puzzling to me.

 

[TopUnit]

This post should win an award, maybe for best post of 2022.

Thanks for your vote!
I'm not sure it ranks very high on the usefulness scale but hopefully it is interesting

 

[Emailsucks98]

You said the seal didn't come out with the lock ring, my understanding is that the seal as well s the oring should be attached to the locknut, so that is puzzling to me.

Me too. Maybe someone else can confirm how theirs comes out. Perhaps the sleeve tool prevents the seal from becoming detached from the lock ring when using the octalink/isis tool.

I’m sure trek dealers would have included that sleeve tool if it is really that important

 

[yase]

I assume you have the bontrager hug with microspline, how did you get the end cap off? Normally these perfectly round ones pull right off (like the DT Swiss) I cannot for the life of me yank it off, even in a vice and pulling up on the wheel lol. How did you use the smooth channel lock to remove it?

And you mention needing a a new end cap, which makes senses since I am finding that microspline uses a longer end cap than an XD freehub. I'm trying to mullet and have a DT Swiss microspline freehub that came in but it didn't include an endcap! the DT Swiss XD endcap is too short. Now I need to source an endcap and want to see if the bontrager one will fit but I can't pull it off! lol



How do you remove the end cap? I've pulled so hard even with arag and pliers and everything and it doesn't pop out as easy as the DT Swiss end caps do. wtf?

Soft jaws in vise, rock back and forth while pulling up on the wheel. Takes some doing but it will eventually get there. Be mindful you don't smack yourself in the nose when it lets go

 

[ryandoubleu]

I assume you have the bontrager hug with microspline, how did you get the end cap off? Normally these perfectly round ones pull right off (like the DT Swiss) I cannot for the life of me yank it off, even in a vice and pulling up on the wheel lol. How did you use the smooth channel lock to remove it?

And you mention needing a a new end cap, which makes senses since I am finding that microspline uses a longer end cap than an XD freehub. I'm trying to mullet and have a DT Swiss microspline freehub that came in but it didn't include an endcap! the DT Swiss XD endcap is too short. Now I need to source an endcap and want to see if the bontrager one will fit but I can't pull it off! lol



How do you remove the end cap? I've pulled so hard even with arag and pliers and everything and it doesn't pop out as easy as the DT Swiss end caps do. wtf?

Leave the cassette on the hub. More area to grab on to.

 

[az2au]

I assume you have the bontrager hug with microspline, how did you get the end cap off? Normally these perfectly round ones pull right off (like the DT Swiss) I cannot for the life of me yank it off, even in a vice and pulling up on the wheel lol. How did you use the smooth channel lock to remove it?

And you mention needing a a new end cap, which makes senses since I am finding that microspline uses a longer end cap than an XD freehub. I'm trying to mullet and have a DT Swiss microspline freehub that came in but it didn't include an endcap! the DT Swiss XD endcap is too short. Now I need to source an endcap and want to see if the bontrager one will fit but I can't pull it off! lol



How do you remove the end cap? I've pulled so hard even with arag and pliers and everything and it doesn't pop out as easy as the DT Swiss end caps do. wtf?

You are absolutely correct. I was stumped by this and had to ask someone. I used a pair of channelocks with no teeth to do it. These to be exact. It was not what I expected at all.

 

[MikeP]

Thanks for your vote!
I'm not sure it ranks very high on the usefulness scale but hopefully it is interesting

Dude, that's an amazing piece of work. And now I've got my head around how the harmonic gearbox works, so thanks, it's been nagging me.

Novice+1 is very modest by the way. My dad's been an industrial/mechanical designer for 50+ years and I think he'd be well impressed with what you've done there.