My Emtb life ( Ongoing Blog ): Current bike: Haibike Sduro Hardseven 2.5

[Bearing Man]

I have PM'd and emailed Yes. no reply as yet but its only been a few days so will hold out on creating the new thread lol.

just read a similar issue was resolved with a new battery but im not convinced they had the same exact issue as it sounded more like the connector issue but if a battery has a damaged cell how does one find that out ? surely that would throw an error at least !

The battery holds and chargers like it always has, new sensor fitted and the side display / controller type A definitely doesn't have its own internal battery. Ive got my battery as tight in the downtube as it can be ( almost impossible now to budge ) so no random movements for disconnection.

Whats even stranger now is..... that once the initial cut out occurs it will also repeat even if im just coasting with no motor use at all lol.

such a shame as the only thing that's been bullet proof and reliable with this Haibike was the motor.

Hey Zimmer, You wanna buy a super light heavy weight ahead of its time tank ?

I have seen your e-mail and your PM. Sorry, but I struggle to answer messages over the weekends these days... need the rest at my age
I was interested to watch your video (Day 3). When your motor stopped assisting, I could hear that it was still running, but had gone into "limp" mode, this then carried on until it looks like the motor switched off altogether? If this is exactly what happens at the end of your video, then it is a PCB fault.
Not sure if you do this or not, but the PW-ST has been fitted with anti tampering software, that sends the motor into limp mode. I don't think this is the issue with your motor, if it did cut out at the end of the ride, because they don't usually do this. However, the bad news is that so many people killed their motors with de-restrictors, that these PCB are currently unavailable from Japan. The other issue is that Yamaha are changing the software on all their new motors and PCB's to do the same!
We have been waiting 6 weeks for new PCB's so far, and finding one is not looking good... You maybe looking at buying a new motor?

 

[Slymobi]

I have seen your e-mail and your PM. Sorry, but I struggle to answer messages over the weekends these days... need the rest at my age
I was interested to watch your video (Day 3). When your motor stopped assisting, I could hear that it was still running, but had gone into "limp" mode, this then carried on until it looks like the motor switched off altogether? If this is exactly what happens at the end of your video, then it is a PCB fault.
Not sure if you do this or not, but the PW-ST has been fitted with anti tampering software, that sends the motor into limp mode. I don't think this is the issue with your motor, if it did cut out at the end of the ride, because they don't usually do this. However, the bad news is that so many people killed their motors with de-restrictors, that these PCB are currently unavailable from Japan. The other issue is that Yamaha are changing the software on all their new motors and PCB's to do the same!
We have been waiting 6 weeks for new PCB's so far, and finding one is not looking good... You maybe looking at buying a new motor?

Hi, Thanks for the reply.
So in the last part of that video i had just got the first cut out for that day. I was 3.1 miles into the ride and the motor and display cuts off ( no errors ) so the video section shows recording from directly after the initial cut out and the assist is reduced ( all modes feel like eco ) and within X time it will all cut out again, manually turn back on and same scenario repeats but no consistency in the time frame before it cuts out again ( it can be anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes etc ) but always at a reduced assist, this can also be repeated whilst coasting down hill ( zero cadence on the motor ).

It has never had any derestricting attempts.

Does that sound more like the pcb issue ?

regards

 

[Bearing Man]

Hi, Thanks for the reply.
So in the last part of that video i had just got the first cut out for that day. I was 3.1 miles into the ride and the motor and display cuts off ( no errors ) so the video section shows recording from directly after the initial cut out and the assist is reduced ( all modes feel like eco ) and within X time it will all cut out again, manually turn back on and same scenario repeats but no consistency in the time frame before it cuts out again ( it can be anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes etc ) but always at a reduced assist, this can also be repeated whilst coasting down hill ( zero cadence on the motor ).

It has never had any derestricting attempts.

Does that sound more like the pcb issue ?

regards

The motor can do a similar thing if it over heats. But, your pcb heat pads look good in your photographs and the issue does not seem to appear specifically during a climb, so I don't think it is actually overheating. However, the sensor on the PCB maybe telling the software, that the motor is hotter than it is? It still sounds like a PCB issue to me.

 

[Slymobi]

The motor can do a similar thing if it over heats. But, your pcb heat pads look good in your photographs and the issue does not seem to appear specifically during a climb, so I don't think it is actually overheating. However, the sensor on the PCB maybe telling the software, that the motor is hotter than it is? It still sounds like a PCB issue to me.

Thanks, really appreciate the info. looks like its a bike strip for sale parts, minus the motor .

Out of interest do you know of any other Yamaha motors that have the same mounting dimensions as the pw-st ? or uk pw-st supplier ?

Im gonna go buy you a coffee anyway now. Cheers bud

 

[Bearing Man]

Thanks, really appreciate the info. looks like its a bike strip for sale parts, minus the motor .

Out of interest do you know of any other Yamaha motors that have the same mounting dimensions as the pw-st ? or uk pw-st supplier ?

Im gonna go buy you a coffee anyway now. Cheers bud

This time three weeks ago we could have just given you a new PCB and off you would have gone, happy... So sad!

Most Yamaha motors have the same bolt hole alignment (apart from PW-X) but the wiring can exit from different angles from the top of the motor and this can foul on the frame some times.
The PW-SE fits the same frame mounts as your motor and would make an excellent substitution, but we have not tried one in your particular model of Haibike, so you may have to trim the frame a little. It would work with your switch and battery though.
Failing that, the PW-TE is on an identical platform, but does have a lower power output. It would be interesting, if you could get your bike to us, we could try a bunch of motors and scenarios.

 

[Slymobi]

This time three weeks ago we could have just given you a new PCB and off you would have gone, happy... So sad!

Most Yamaha motors have the same bolt hole alignment (apart from PW-X) but the wiring can exit from different angles from the top of the motor and this can foul on the frame some times.
The PW-SE fits the same frame mounts as your motor and would make an excellent substitution, but we have not tried one in your particular model of Haibike, so you may have to trim the frame a little. It would work with your switch and battery though.
Failing that, the PW-TE is on an identical platform, but does have a lower power output. It would be interesting, if you could get your bike to us, we could try a bunch of motors and scenarios.

great info again mate. i am looking at getting a new bike in the new year and was hoping to keep this bike for a spare or for my eldest son ( once he grows a bit lol ) so this is at least a positive going forward.

Im located near Manchester so i dont think its just a quick trip to get the bike to you but i am open to maybe doing this to test the ideas in the near future.

 

[Slymobi]

Haibike Sduro Hardseven 2.5 size L

SDG Bel air saddle.
Spank spoon grips.
Trans X Ascend 170mm Dropper.
DMR Defy 35 stem.
Reverse Base 800 mm Riser bars.
Magura MT5 Brakes.
Rockshox 35 29er forks.
Octane one 27.5 wheel set - Magic Mary front 203mm rotor, Hans Dampf rear 180mm rotor.
Miche xfm 27.5 wheel set - Magic Mary front 203mm rotor, Big Betty rear 180mm rotor.
Both wheelsets include Tannus inserts front and rear ( 4 in total ) and good condition 9 speed cassettes on the rears.
FSA 160mm cranks - condition good with lots of paint wear though.
DMR v6 flat pedals.
Rare Sunrace M9 clutch derailleur.
Custom diy wide narrow chain rings at 34T and 38T.
RSP chain catcher.
x1r-10 500wh intube yamaha battery good condition.
yamaha pw-st motor - Condition Intermittent, unable to actually diagnose fault, 3739 miles odo.
Yamaha display type A - good condition.
Brand new speed sensor fitted. ( Nothing faulty with the old one it turns out so included as spare ).
Overall the bike is in good condition with quite a few chips and scratches as I've rode the bike hard at times, fell hard at times but surface cosmetics were not important to me so its definitely used

Worth selling ?
As whole package or broken down ?
just curious

 

[Tubby G]

Haibike Sduro Hardseven 2.5 size L

SDG Bel air saddle.
Spank spoon grips.
Trans X Ascend 170mm Dropper.
DMR Defy 35 stem.
Reverse Base 800 mm Riser bars.
Magura MT5 Brakes.
Rockshox 35 29er forks.
Octane one 27.5 wheel set - Magic Mary front 203mm rotor, Hans Dampf rear 180mm rotor.
Miche xfm 27.5 wheel set - Magic Mary front 203mm rotor, Big Betty rear 180mm rotor.
Both wheelsets include Tannus inserts front and rear ( 4 in total ) and good condition 9 speed cassettes on the rears.
FSA 160mm cranks - condition good with lots of paint wear though.
DMR v6 flat pedals.
Rare Sunrace M9 clutch derailleur.
Custom diy wide narrow chain rings at 34T and 38T.
RSP chain catcher.
x1r-10 500wh intube yamaha battery good condition.
yamaha pw-st motor - Condition Intermittent, unable to actually diagnose fault, 3739 miles odo.
Yamaha display type A - good condition.
Brand new speed sensor fitted. ( Nothing faulty with the old one it turns out so included as spare ).
Overall the bike is in good condition with quite a few chips and scratches as I've rode the bike hard at times, fell hard at times but surface cosmetics were not important to me so its definitely used

Worth selling ?
As whole package or broken down ?
just curious

I’d keep everything as you probably won’t get half of what you’ve paid for them, and no doubt as your children get older and start riding with you all the spare parts will come in handy over time. You’re obviously handy with the tools so will be able to build another bike just from buying a frame etc

 

[Slymobi]

I’d keep everything as you probably won’t get half of what you’ve paid for them, and no doubt as your children get older and start riding with you all the spare parts will come in handy over time. You’re obviously handy with the tools so will be able to build another bike just from buying a frame etc

Good point
Battery, control display, sensor and charger alone might be worth enough for a cheapish frame to build on

 

[Tubby G]

Good point
Battery, control display, sensor and charger alone might be worth enough for a cheapish frame to build on

Well one day you’ll probably get that motor fixed or the PCB replaced and then you can build the Haibike up again. Children don’t need emtb’s, you can just tow them up the steep climbs if their legs have had enough

 

[Tubby G]

I can’t remember if it was Tom Cardy or Sam Pilgrim that made a towing video, but they were testing a Haibike’s towing abilities and you’d be amazed at what they were shifting. Think they managed a Ford Transit on flat tarmac!

 

[Tubby G]

I can’t remember if it was Tom Cardy or Sam Pilgrim that made a towing video, but they were testing a Haibike’s towing abilities and you’d be amazed at what they were shifting. Think they managed a Ford Transit on flat tarmac!

It wasn’t Tom Cardy or Sam Pilgrm, or a Haibike. It was Chris Smith on a Kenevo

 

[Slymobi]

pmsl but i think Sam and Tc did something similar too.