Mino Link settings

[ragnor]

Probably a couple of silly queries but I'll ask anyway.

Can you tell which setting the bike is in just by looking at it and if so how? If not anyone got any details of the measurements involved? E.g. bottom bracket height in each setting.

Secondly should the "eye" showing which way to adjust the setting be on the inside of the arm? From research on various pics this seems to be the case!

Bike is a Trek Rail 9.9

 

[Arcadyus]

On the right side of your bike it will tell you. There's an arrow that points to a high and low setting. It's adjacent from where is says mino link on the inside of your frame.

 

[cohen2717]

Measurements for both settings are on trek's site. For the bolt position, back is slack.

 

[Doomanic]

 

[Daev]

ok, bought the bike last November - been out on it weekly. No idea how the Mino link is set - now is the time!!
Can't believe half a degree and 6-9 mm will make any kind of difference to my majorly amateurish riding style, or indeed that I'll be that sensitive to the differences.
Hitting Cannock Chase tomorrow which I've only been to once before about 8 weeks ago. Think I'll save it for my local weekly familiar ride next week, just in case there is a noticeable change (only 40 miles from home instead of 250!!) - if things go tits up!!
Watching the vid above my instinct feels like I'd prefer high - will be interesting to see what it is (and has been for the last 7 months) in the a.m.

 

[Daev]

Couldn't resist. Changed from low to high mid-ride round Cannock Chase. Immediate noticeable difference, for the better for me for sure. Staying on high henceforth - who d'a thought

 

[Doomanic]

What did you like about it?

 

[Daev]

Not knowing about these things.... Weird sensation of being significantly shorter and higher. Wasn't too comfortable with the higher bit initially - that gave me the feeling of being higher than i like to be in relation to handlebars and thus weight out of line for not going over the bars - i got used to that though and only lifted the front wheel once going up switchbacks.
The same could be said for the shorter sensation but really appreciated tighter turning - i've always struggled with the switchbacks as the bike felt too long while trying to wrestle it round. This properly addressed that and i felt like i could finally ride around them - brilliant fun, can"t wait to try it out now on me home turf

 

[Daev]

....aaaaaand just for reference - got home, decided to torque up from 2 grunts field setting.
Bolt says 17nm.
Bike torque wrench goes upto 10nm
Big boys torque wrench starts at 28nm.
Set big boys to 28 and wound back 11... Thought this would =17... (Except they probably don't work like that).
So having sheared the bolt in half and being £14 down for replacement bolt, i've decided to go with the '2 grunts' field setting and loosely cable tied through the middle to ensure i don't lose it half way round trail.... when the replacement arrives. So glad the bolt sheared and the cf frame didn't crack!!

 

[Daev]

2 takeaways from this :
1 - don't start fiddling around with your bike when you are at the furthest point away from car/home on your ride ( lucky there )
2 - don't complain if things seem to be about as strong as a chocolate teapot - it's probably been engineered like that for a reason )

 

[Daev]

If anyone's wondering about swapping the mino link around and hasn't tried it before - it's 17nm torque. Don't over-grunt it - the bolt shears to protect the frame ( which is a good thing ).
I used the cable tie hack to ensure it won't come undone and if it does you won't lose it ( also a good thing ).
Don't do cable tie up real tight as the frame movement will break it.

 

[Daev]

A-ha, could be.
Can't torque mine up to 10nm with bike torque wrench as it's unidirectional - can only fit it in and torque from the inside but wrench too long. Not the most brilliant design.

1 grunt it is then

 

[Bomble]

If anyone's wondering about swapping the mino link around and hasn't tried it before - it's 17nm torque. Don't over-grunt it - the bolt shears to protect the frame ( which is a good thing ).
I used the cable tie hack to ensure it won't come undone and if it does you won't lose it ( also a good thing ).
Don't do cable tie up real tight as the frame movement will break it.

View attachment 93351

That’s the opposite to mine too, mine‘s carbon and the bolts are on the outside

 

[Daev]

That’s the opposite to mine too, mine‘s carbon and the bolts are on the outside

Mine's obviously 'special'

 

[Hamina]

If anyone's wondering about swapping the mino link around and hasn't tried it before - it's 17nm torque. Don't over-grunt it - the bolt shears to protect the frame ( which is a good thing ).
I used the cable tie hack to ensure it won't come undone and if it does you won't lose it ( also a good thing ).
Don't do cable tie up real tight as the frame movement will break it.

Why not just use loctite in the threads? The cable ties will rub all the paint away after a while.

Edit: I used cabletie as quick fix for rear brakehose and the end result could be seen in the frame paint damage.

 

[Daev]

True, still special - the designers obviously realised ( and a "ooops" was heard in the office ).
Just got back from my hometurf ride with it set to high for the first time - love the difference