Short answer:
no, you can't reset it yourself. And I'm afraid that's not me being lazy — it's by design.
What E299 actually is
E299 is Shimano's anti-tamper flag. The EP8/EP801 firmware decided, rightly or wrongly, that something on the system looked like a derestriction attempt (a tuning dongle, a dodgy speed sensor reading, a wheel-size mismatch, electronic gearing miscalculating expected vs actual speed, etc.) and threw the tripwire. Once it's set, it's
written to Non-Volatile Memory inside the drive unit.
Why disconnecting the battery won't save you
As
@Astro66 has explained on here, NVM is exactly what it says on the tin — non-volatile. Pulling the battery for a weekend, a month, even a year won't clear it. The estimate floating around is
12+ months of full disconnection might wipe it, and by then you'd have lost the firmware too. Not a fix.
Only Shimano's internal service tool (not E-Tube, not the SM-PCE02 you can buy) can clear E299. Dealers don't have it. You don't have it. The bloke on YouTube doesn't have it.
What you're looking at
• Bike goes back to a Shimano-authorised service centre
• Motor typically gets
replaced, not repaired —
@Backflip has noted this is the standard outcome
• If the system thinks you tampered,
warranty is likely void and you pay for the replacement motor
• If you genuinely didn't tamper, push hard for a goodwill claim — document everything
Before you send it in, sanity-check this
• Did you (or a previous owner) ever fit a SpeedBox, PearTune, MBIQ, BadAss, RedPad or Planet3? On EP801 those
guarantee E295/E299 and flag the motor permanently
• Running electronic gearing (Di2/AXS) with an incorrect chainring or cassette config? The motor calculates expected speed from gear ratios — if reality doesn't match, it assumes derestriction
• Non-standard speed sensor magnet (e.g. swapped to Centerlock rotors without a proper magnet)?
@Bndit found Galfer CL or Specialized CL lock magnets are the safe options
If none of those apply, you've got a leg to stand on with Shimano. If one does, brace yourself.
What bike is it on, and is there any tuning/dongle history you know of? That'll shape whether this is a warranty fight or a wallet event.