Going Tubeless

[mak]

its really not that complicated , for the sake of 50 quid every body should own a discharge air cylinder. Honestly I wish I had purchased mine before I decided to give it a go, its not like its a one hit pony, it will serve you well throughout your tubeless journey.

 

[KeithR]

So all my bits have arrived. I have a question/quandry before I start:

The Stans Syringe does not appear to fit on the Muc Off valve. It easily goes over the top. But it doesn't appear to be able to screw on. Both the inside of the syringe and the outside of the valve have screw threads but they are not the same size.

According to Stans, the injector tip is "dual-threaded":

Dual threaded plastic adapter fits both presta and schrader valves

so presumably it's just a case of unplugging the tip and turning it over?

Tire Sealant Injector

<div class="cards"> <div class="cardsFeatures"> <p><strong style="font-size: 1.8rem;">FEATURES:</strong></p> <ul> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Allows for easy transfer of sealant from one tire to another</p> </li> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Includes schrader valve core remover</p> </li> <li...

www.notubes.com

They're using a Presta valve in this video:

 

[salko]

Yes the plastic tip has dual threads, but the smaller thread still won't fit presta valve thread ... and you can't turn over the tip, both threads are from the same side.

 

[KeithR]

Yes the plastic tip has dual threads, but the smaller thread still won't fit presta valve thread ... and you can't turn over the tip, both threads are from the same side.

So how can they assert that the injector works with Presta valves? As I say, they're using a Presta in the video.

Seems unlikely that Stans would drop the ball like that, given that Presta valves are far and away the most common valves on mountain bikes.

 

[salko]

Now that I know I'm not the only one with this problem I guess it can be a bad batch of plastic tips ...

 

[Philly G]

Must just be a bad batch of tips? I've never had any trouble at all threading mine onto presta valve cores, had it a few years now so maybe they changed the tips? I never knew the tip was double threaded for schraeder as well, it does thread on a bit loose until it is snug, I guess that is why. Maybe try a smaller gauge PVC tube that fits snug on the valve core and don't worry about the tip? Attach the tube to the valve core at the 12 o'clock position then rotate the wheel to 6 o'clock to inject the sealant. I often don't use the plunger and let gravity do the job.

 

[Philly G]

its really not that complicated , for the sake of 50 quid every body should own a discharge air cylinder. Honestly I wish I had purchased mine before I decided to give it a go, its not like its a one hit pony, it will serve you well throughout your tubeless journey.

I'd love one of those discharge cylinders but I've always managed to get by with this super cheap homemade device:
Instead of pumping it up using the handle, I removed the safety valve and put a presta valve in, so I can pump it up using the track pump. I have been lucky though with my rims in that most of the time I've been able to air them up tubeless just using the track pump, but this hack works wonders on the occasions I've needed it

 

[Blakey]

I just went and tried again and I found that if I push the tube deep into the valve and then screw it does eventually take. So it looks like it was just me not being resilient enough with it.

So no excuses now, I'm going to try and do the job this lunchtime...

 

[Blakey]

Sooooo. I did it. Was easier than expected (I hope that means I did it right!)

Some interesting things along the way:

1. I found my track pump does not screw onto the Presta valve with the core removed. So I had to inflate with the core in.
2. No compressor and cores in meant pumping like mad but I got the popping noise, so I think that bit worked.
3. Adding sealant via the valve with the core removed and the syringe was easy.
4. 29" x 2.6" tyres I went for 100ml of sealant per tyre. I hope that is about right.
5. I got bubbles coming out of some of my spokes when I inflated. Now I'd used soapy water so that was what was coming out. I am a little worried that this means the rim tape is not actually working. Should I be worried? Perhaps the sealant will just fill those holes?
6. I had an immediate 'leak' of sealant out of the rear tyre - the one I punctured last week. So that was to be expected and proves the sealant comes out. Hopefully it will have sealed it too!

I've done the "lay on the side for ten minutes on a bucket" on each side to help seal the side walls. I'm now just leaving the tyres for 24 hours before I ride them.

What pressure should I inflate to for the first ride?

 

[salko]

100ml per 29x2.6 tire seems a bit low to me, I put in 140ml for same tire dimension but I use Muc-Off sealant, so check recommended quantity with your sealant manufacturer.
I also learned few days ago that not all tapes are sticked to the rim (with stock tape on Roval wheelsets for example) but some are just snug fitted onto the rim, but sealant will make a seal after you inflate & rotate them. Just make sure all the spoke holes are properly covered and that tape is not to much loose/streched.
First inflation should be around 40psi (must be in accordance with the rim and tire maximum pressure) after good shake and rotations in all direction, maybe even leaving each side of a wheel on a bucket for some time, you then lower the pressure to operational level.

 

[Mikerb]

Yes I can also confirm that thread in the plastic bit does not fit on standard presta valve. I don't know what they were thinking at Stans. I ended up puting it on by a little force so it has threaded it self a bit and it works for me, no sealant spill outside the valve. You can also try to remove the plastic bit and put a tube directly onto a valve.

I discovered the same!! I cut off the useless connector and connected one of those attachments you use to pump up inflatable toys. It has a pointed end and with the valve core removed it can be screwed into the valve stem creating its own thread as it goes.

 

[Mini si]

Has anyone gone back to tubes after going tubeless?
Are tubeless really worth all the extra messing about? Genuine question. (I understand the benefit of running lower pressure for more grip but I just ended up with two holes in the tyre instead of the tube after hitting a rock too hard (at about 30psi) and had to put a tube back in to get home anyway as the tyre was flat in roughly 3 seconds). Are tubeless only good for certain types of terrain or am I just doing it wrong??

 

[Gary]

Yeah. you've fallen for the myth that you can run super lower pressures after converting to tubeless. when in actual fact a tyre with no tube has LESS sidewall support. So if you're a hard rider, heavy, clumsy or judt ride unforgiving terrain you may actually need slightly higher pressures to maintain sidewall support.
Depending on volume and casing 30psi could definitely be too low for a rear tyre . Even more so if the rider is heavy and on an Ebike .

I run tubes on some bikes and tubeless on others. infact I have a couple of bikes with one wheel tubeless and one with a tube.
Just incase Dave was wondering

 

[Mini si]

lol, but that’s what all the videos told me!! Next to no pressure, no punctures (or at least the ones I do get magically fix themselves), and the most grip I’ve ever had!! The reality seems slightly different.
I’m happy to tick all the boxes you mentioned above, and not to proud to say that on occasion I am clumsy ? the main ones though are that I weigh 95kg and most of the riding I do around Hayfield is very rocky and rough with no bike specific trails.
I also didn’t know I needed to keep topping up the sealant, this is a completely different point all together but a tube might only cost me a fiver and my last bike I only replaced one in 5 years which is a lot less messing about and cheaper too. Can’t say I’ve noticed a massive difference since putting the tube in the back wheel a few weeks ago.

 

[Another rider]

Forget about running really low pressures. I find with my rim/ tyre combination that around 20psi is a good compromise. Lower than 15psi I really notice the movement in tyre and much lower still and the handling is all over the place.
The real difference and the reason I'm stickling with tubeless is punctures. I used to get loads of minor punctures (thorns, sharp stones etc) and it was a real pain and I got through quite a few tubes. In really dry conditions I might get one a week (I ride pretty much every day). I still pick up punctures but the sealant generally does its job and seals them before I'm completely flat. And if I get a really nasty one I can insert a plug without even taking the tyre off.

 

[Mini si]

There’s no way I could go that low! I was at around 30 and that was too low for me and where I ride. I’ve now got tubes front and rear and 40psi in both so I’ll see how I get on or if I notice much difference. Seems tyre pressure is just another thing with so many variables and personal preferences for there to be a hard and fast rule

 

[Mini si]

Back to tubeless it is then, feels terrible with a tube in the front. Didn’t notice it so much in the back.