Ebike suggestion

Dave_B

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I bought the alloy cause I made an expensive mistake on the Rail so could not afford to splash out again on carbon.

Turned out all right though. 👌👍
Look in the Spesh section of the forum for details of the stripping process.
 

irie

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Yes, but it’s a good thing, the motor will fail, they replace it, carry on riding, no drama.
So that's a good thing?
eek7.gif
 

Mikerb

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1. Buy from a good local bike shop
2. Match the bike to the type of riding you do...intend to do. No point in having a hard hitting enduro set up if you mainly ride fairly flat single track. Lower powered EMTBs beome an option if that is your type of riding. No point getting a pure trail bike if you are into techy descents and climbs.....and you would likely be better off with a full powered bike if that is your type of riding ( you can always use a lower power mode for easier terrain). How a bike handles and rides is far more important than how much it weights ( if you cannot lift a 25kg bike into the back of a car you need some fitness training!!)
3. Motor choice may be a factor. Bosch CX appears to be the most reliable but I know riders who have put Ks of miles on a Brose motor without issues so I would not discount a Brose (I have ridden Brose and Bosch but never a Shimano motored bike so no comment on that motor). The comment above that Bosch motor response is instant is rubbish.........the Brose motor response is far more instant and more powerful at lower cadences than the Bosch........although both can now be tuned in every mode to suit different riders. Also not every Bosch powered bike suffers from motor rattle..........it is largely down to rear suspension design and shock set up as to whether it does or does not.
Personally I would avoid the newer motors on the scene until they prove themselves.
4. Cast a critical eye over the design and engineering of whatever bikes form your shortlist. I will not name brands because that will upset owners...but there are some plain stupid design failures out there!!
5. I know testing bikes can be difficult these days but apart from buying a bike that meets your preferred riding type, how the bike fits you is the next important consideration.............and far more important than things like displays etc. Given that Geo has become very similar across the brands ( according to the category of bike) still probably one of the biggest differences is reach.
6. It is usually far cheaper to buy a bike with a component set ( brakes/forks/shock/drivetrain) that is good enough for your intended type of riding than to buy a cheaper model and have to upgrade.
 

irie

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And also be aware that (probably) the longer you ride an eBike the more ambitious you will become and push your bike harder.
 

Tubby G

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1. Buy from a good local bike shop
2. Match the bike to the type of riding you do...intend to do. No point in having a hard hitting enduro set up if you mainly ride fairly flat single track. Lower powered EMTBs beome an option if that is your type of riding. No point getting a pure trail bike if you are into techy descents and climbs.....and you would likely be better off with a full powered bike if that is your type of riding ( you can always use a lower power mode for easier terrain). How a bike handles and rides is far more important than how much it weights ( if you cannot lift a 25kg bike into the back of a car you need some fitness training!!)
3. Motor choice may be a factor. Bosch CX appears to be the most reliable but I know riders who have put Ks of miles on a Brose motor without issues so I would not discount a Brose (I have ridden Brose and Bosch but never a Shimano motored bike so no comment on that motor). The comment above that Bosch motor response is instant is rubbish.........the Brose motor response is far more instant and more powerful at lower cadences than the Bosch........although both can now be tuned in every mode to suit different riders. Also not every Bosch powered bike suffers from motor rattle..........it is largely down to rear suspension design and shock set up as to whether it does or does not.
Personally I would avoid the newer motors on the scene until they prove themselves.
4. Cast a critical eye over the design and engineering of whatever bikes form your shortlist. I will not name brands because that will upset owners...but there are some plain stupid design failures out there!!
5. I know testing bikes can be difficult these days but apart from buying a bike that meets your preferred riding type, how the bike fits you is the next important consideration.............and far more important than things like displays etc. Given that Geo has become very similar across the brands ( according to the category of bike) still probably one of the biggest differences is reach.
6. It is usually far cheaper to buy a bike with a component set ( brakes/forks/shock/drivetrain) that is good enough for your intended type of riding than to buy a cheaper model and have to upgrade.
My comment isn’t rubbish at all. The motor kicks in as soon as the peddles turn. Maybe you don’t feel it in Eco, but in Tour, Emtb or Turbo it’s there
 

Ou812

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Jun 26, 2022
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Whoever has the best support in your area is how I would choose, it’s not a matter of if it breaks but a matter of when. If you buy something from one of the mail order companies are they going to be able to support you for warranty work? My mate missed the 3 best months of riding waiting on a motor replacement for his YT Decoy, another missed 2 months waiting on a motor for his Vitus….both shimano powered bikes. My other mate dropped his Levo off at the shop for a motor replacement and picked it up on the way home from work the same day.

I considered going with a lightweight e-bike but it didn’t make sense to me when I sat and thought about it. It would be awesome if I rode alone all the time but I don’t.
 

Dave_B

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So that's a good thing?
eek7.gif
Eyes wide open, that’s all. I’m not sure I could get a same day motor replacement with any other brand.
I had a Levo Pro, gen 3, for various reasons, not bike related, I sold it.
Then got the Rail, too many issues with motor and battery rattle etc.
Then got the Levo again.
First eeb was a SC Heckler with Shimano motor.
For me, the best all round (motor, control integration, ride) is the Levo.

The best motor for climbing is the Bosch, hands down. But it’s not just about going up, it’s the all round package of an eeb that you have to consider when buying.
 

Mikerb

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My comment isn’t rubbish at all. The motor kicks in as soon as the peddles turn. Maybe you don’t feel it in Eco, but in Tour, Emtb or Turbo it’s there
as does every motor....that is how a torque sensor works. What differs is the amount of power delivered by the motor as controlled by the software algorithm taking account of rider torque and cadence. The Brose motor has always been more responsive at lower rider torque settings and lower cadences albeit both pedal assist and max assist can be set in Mission Control. My experience with Brose was for just over 2 years with a 2019 Levo Comp (later versions of the motor may be detuned a little based on some feedback I read here?). Both of my current bikes are Bosch CX...and my ride buddy is still using his Levo. The Bosch powered bikes need more rider input and a higher cadence to get the same sort of power the Levo produces....in every mode, as is evident when we swop bikes. BUT as I said, the latest Bosch firmware update includes the a bility now to tune all the modes and I can get my ( Bosch Smart System) Bosch CX to now feel more similar to the Brose in terms of response.
 

Tubby G

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as does every motor....that is how a torque sensor works. What differs is the amount of power delivered by the motor as controlled by the software algorithm taking account of rider torque and cadence. The Brose motor has always been more responsive at lower rider torque settings and lower cadences albeit both pedal assist and max assist can be set in Mission Control. My experience with Brose was for just over 2 years with a 2019 Levo Comp (later versions of the motor may be detuned a little based on some feedback I read here?). Both of my current bikes are Bosch CX...and my ride buddy is still using his Levo. The Bosch powered bikes need more rider input and a higher cadence to get the same sort of power the Levo produces....in every mode, as is evident when we swop bikes. BUT as I said, the latest Bosch firmware update includes the a bility now to tune all the modes and I can get my ( Bosch Smart System) Bosch CX to now feel more similar to the Brose in terms of response.

I never even mentioned the Brose motor or compared the Bosch to the Brose. I was talking from experience of riding my Bosch powered bikes. My Shimano EP8(RS) doesn’t react in the same way, the cranks need to be turned at least half or a full rotation before the power is delivered, and I much prefer that
 

RJUK

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Sep 29, 2021
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So you'd say th3 way the Brose delivers it's power is more desirable than how the Bosch delivers it? As you seem to be aiming to tune the Bosch to feel like the Brose?

Another silly factor is that I just kinda "want" a Specialized. My first "proper" mountain bike when I was younger was a bright orange FSR and I replaced it with a Specialized P3 jump bike, so in my little group of biking mates I was the Specialized guy. (We also had a Cannondale guy and others...) So I have a certain fondness for the brand.

Thoughts on carbon vs alloy? There seem to be people who sweet one way or the other, but the last couple of bikes I've had have been carbon.

It really is a shame the Whyte E160 is so heavy, as it's otherwise a really nice package.

With regards to me getting it in the car, I could probably get a 25kg bike in there, but the more it weighs, the more awkward it is. My car is a saloon, so requires removing the front wheel, then lying the bike flat and "posting" it in through the boot. Plus we already established how unfit I am...

Was awkward enough just getting the carbon Spectral acoustic bike in there.
 

irie

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I never even mentioned the Brose motor or compared the Bosch to the Brose. I was talking from experience of riding my Bosch powered bikes. My Shimano EP8(RS) doesn’t react in the same way, the cranks need to be turned at least half or a full rotation before the power is delivered, and I much prefer that
When I pedal (with 72 points of engagement) on my Bosch powered Rail ('22 alloy) I like to feel the power kick in immediately. But then I weigh 79kg rather than your 18st+/115kg+ so perhaps it's a rider weight issue.
 

Mikerb

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I never even mentioned the Brose motor or compared the Bosch to the Brose. I was talking from experience of riding my Bosch powered bikes. My Shimano EP8(RS) doesn’t react in the same way, the cranks need to be turned at least half or a full rotation before the power is delivered, and I much prefer that
yes I can believe there would a difference between the Shimano motor and most of the others..........I have ever used a Shimano powered bike but I know it is reputed to be a very natural feel.
 

Ou812

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So you'd say th3 way the Brose delivers it's power is more desirable than how the Bosch delivers it? As you seem to be aiming to tune the Bosch to feel like the Brose?

Another silly factor is that I just kinda "want" a Specialized. My first "proper" mountain bike when I was younger was a bright orange FSR and I replaced it with a Specialized P3 jump bike, so in my little group of biking mates I was the Specialized guy. (We also had a Cannondale guy and others...) So I have a certain fondness for the brand.

Thoughts on carbon vs alloy? There seem to be people who sweet one way or the other, but the last couple of bikes I've had have been carbon.

It really is a shame the Whyte E160 is so heavy, as it's otherwise a really nice package.

With regards to me getting it in the car, I could probably get a 25kg bike in there, but the more it weighs, the more awkward it is. My car is a saloon, so requires removing the front wheel, then lying the bike flat and "posting" it in through the boot. Plus we already established how unfit I am...

Was awkward enough just getting the carbon Spectral acoustic bike in there.
I’ve ridden Bosch, Brose and Shimano powered bikes. IMO the best power delivery is the Shimano, it feels the most natural. Unfortunately, I would never own a shimano powered bike….which sucks because my preferred bike brand is Yeti. The Brose is pretty good once you figure your settings out but it took me a while to get it dialed in.
 

Tubby G

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When I pedal (with 72 points of engagement) on my Bosch powered Rail (alloy) I like to feel the power kick in immediately. But then I weigh 79kg rather than your 18st+/115kg+ so perhaps it's a rider weight issue.

Well I don’t see what my weight has to do with it except I can perhaps deliver more power through my legs (heavier riders can generally deliver more watts per kg), but you’ve just agreed that the power kicks in immediately, which is what I was stating.

I’m not slating the Bosch motor, just making the OP aware, as he’s used to non electric MTB’s so the instant power can feel very different.

We’re all here providing our opinions to help the OP make a choice about his shiny new investment. I’m not here to argue about the merits of the Bosch motor.
 

RJUK

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And I appreciate it. I've heard the Shimano is quite noisy and generally not thought of as being as good as the Bosch. The Brose tend to be thought of as good, but unreliable, but the Spesh warranty is good and I have a Spesh dealer nearby, so it would be the easiest to sort warranty/repairs for.

The Bosch I'd also be happy with.

Surely on the Trek Rail you could add more foam around the battery to stop any rattling?

I think I'm back to square one now and looking at the Levo Expert. Shame the colours aren't as bright as other models, though I guess that helps them fly under the radar a bit more. (The red alloy Levo practically screams "steal me!")

That said, the expert is £8k and I really don't want to spend that much. I considered the Comp Carbon, but it has a Fox 36 with just a grip damper. Spend around £1400 more and you get a 38 Grip 2 and a better drivetrain (though curiously the same brakes).
 

irie

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And I appreciate it. I've heard the Shimano is quite noisy and generally not thought of as being as good as the Bosch. The Brose tend to be thought of as good, but unreliable, but the Spesh warranty is good and I have a Spesh dealer nearby, so it would be the easiest to sort warranty/repairs for.

The Bosch I'd also be happy with.

Surely on the Trek Rail you could add more foam around the battery to stop any rattling?

I think I'm back to square one now and looking at the Levo Expert. Shame the colours aren't as bright as other models, though I guess that helps them fly under the radar a bit more. (The red alloy Levo practically screams "steal me!")

That said, the expert is £8k and I really don't want to spend that much. I considered the Comp Carbon, but it has a Fox 36 with just a grip damper. Spend around £1400 more and you get a 38 Grip 2 and a better drivetrain (though curiously the same brakes).
Our batteries don't rattle, but then we have alloy bikes with 500Wh batteries which are obviously lighter than 625/750 batteries, and I do have some high frequency hearing loss. But my wife doesn't hear any rattles from her Rail.

If you rate your LBS then that's the place to go.
 

Mikerb

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So you'd say th3 way the Brose delivers it's power is more desirable than how the Bosch delivers it? As you seem to be aiming to tune the Bosch to feel like the Brose?

Another silly factor is that I just kinda "want" a Specialized. My first "proper" mountain bike when I was younger was a bright orange FSR and I replaced it with a Specialized P3 jump bike, so in my little group of biking mates I was the Specialized guy. (We also had a Cannondale guy and others...) So I have a certain fondness for the brand.

Thoughts on carbon vs alloy? There seem to be people who sweet one way or the other, but the last couple of bikes I've had have been carbon.

It really is a shame the Whyte E160 is so heavy, as it's otherwise a really nice package.

With regards to me getting it in the car, I could probably get a 25kg bike in there, but the more it weighs, the more awkward it is. My car is a saloon, so requires removing the front wheel, then lying the bike flat and "posting" it in through the boot. Plus we already established how unfit I am...

Was awkward enough just getting the carbon Spectral acoustic bike in there.
Yes, most of my riding is gravity and then a climb back up and I dont want power delivery to be delayed. That is not to say it lacks control because you can control it with the amount you input to the cranks. I loved the Brose motor on my Levo though.
As far as Spesh is concerned I trust their engineering and design..........and they were well ahead of the field as far as EMTB was concerned!! Their service and warranty is probably the best in the EMTB market but their prices are usually premium especially considering the component spec on some of their models. Still one the best picks I reckon.
Carbon on an EMTB?? Never!!
The Whyte E160 ( mine is the RSX) is an exceptional bike..........better in every department than my 2019 Levo Comp even after I changed fork/shock/bars etc. The company lacks profile and marketing budget compared to other brands but the reviews speak for themselves. The latest Levo is probably more comparable but I have not tried one and dont like mullet set ups anyway. Weight does not even enter my mind with regards to the E160 RSX. It is both stable and very lively/manoevrable....and fast with top notch components throughout. The only thing I have changed is the bars.
For bike transport you really need to plan for a better solution because as you said, getting any bike into a saloon boot is a tussle, its not very secure, and can make a mess!! Perhaps consider a tow bar mounted rack??
 
Oct 30, 2020
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i've had an orbea m10 from jan 2021 and have just added a 2023 rail 9.8 xt to that as of this month. i absolutely loved the rise but it is on its 3rd motor (1st from drive spline cracked due to orbea specced e13 cranks, and 2nd from various e010 faults). each time the motor needed replaced it took at least 6wks. these were at the most inconvenient times - ie when i most wanted to ride my bike!

i mostly ride the orbea in boost mode, though i am mechanically sympathetic and keep a high cadence and lower gear so not to load the motor so much. because of riding in boost so much, i only get about 3000-3300ft from the battery. my warranty has just finished, my replacement motor coming in the last week of warranty. i have zero faith in shimano/madison should anything happen to my motor now outside of warranty, hence taking advantage of the rail reductions.

whilst i love the extra range i am getting from the rail, i find myself overshooting alot of corners due to the extra weight of the rail. i had my m10 built up enduro with 160mm coil conversion fork, push 11-6 shock and reserve wheels. it handled absolutely anything i ever wanted from it! i still think i am faster on the orbea, but extra adaption time is still needed

i had both bikes out at the weekend, me on the rail and my friend on my rise. i knew i wanted to do more than 3000ft so i put the range extender on for him on the orbea. I was completely surprised by how well the orbea climbed! him in boost the whole time and me in e-mtb mode. yes i could have went faster on the trek climbing but i felt in no way held back by riding with the orbea in boost mode.
we covered 5000ft and he ended with 27%, me with 35%.

going from my experience, i would have no problem recommending an h model rise with the 540 battery, or the newer 2023 rise with the 540 battery. the major downfall being shimano/madison in the uk.

other bikes on my radar when i bought the trek this month
2023 orbea wild - this was my first choice by quite a margin but it just can't be got in the uk! and i want something then and there!
levo pro - didn't want mullet
ibis oso - love ibis, didn't think it was good value for money with the spec
pole voima - very 'out there' in a positive and negative way
the trek won out due to price reductions!
 

RJUK

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Sep 29, 2021
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TBH, it's not my LBS, just a relatively local Spesh concept store
Yes, most of my riding is gravity and then a climb back up and I dont want power delivery to be delayed. That is not to say it lacks control because you can control it with the amount you input to the cranks. I loved the Brose motor on my Levo though.
As far as Spesh is concerned I trust their engineering and design..........and they were well ahead of the field as far as EMTB was concerned!! Their service and warranty is probably the best in the EMTB market but their prices are usually premium especially considering the component spec on some of their models. Still one the best picks I reckon.
Carbon on an EMTB?? Never!!
The Whyte E160 ( mine is the RSX) is an exceptional bike..........better in every department than my 2019 Levo Comp even after I changed fork/shock/bars etc. The company lacks profile and marketing budget compared to other brands but the reviews speak for themselves. The latest Levo is probably more comparable but I have not tried one and dont like mullet set ups anyway. Weight does not even enter my mind with regards to the E160 RSX. It is both stable and very lively/manoevrable....and fast with top notch components throughout. The only thing I have changed is the bars.
For bike transport you really need to plan for a better solution because as you said, getting any bike into a saloon boot is a tussle, its not very secure, and can make a mess!! Perhaps consider a tow bar mounted rack??
I've only test ridden one ebike and it was Cube (Bosch system I think) and my issue with it was that it was too heavy to lift/bunnyhop/manual. It just felt like all I could do was plow over things and go up hills without losing my breath. Also lifting it over gates and stuff was hard work.

Don't you find that to be the case?

And why not carbon for an ebike?

Not sure about mounting a bike rack on my car. It's going back within the next year so not really worth buying any specific products for it and I wouldn't want to fit a towbar. (Not even sure you can on my car.)

I was considering something like one of those racks that suckers onto glass as I have a glass roof (as many cars seem to these days) but I'd be worried about the suckers failing and seeing my new expensive bike go tumbling down the road into the car behind...
 

Mikerb

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TBH, it's not my LBS, just a relatively local Spesh concept store

I've only test ridden one ebike and it was Cube (Bosch system I think) and my issue with it was that it was too heavy to lift/bunnyhop/manual. It just felt like all I could do was plow over things and go up hills without losing my breath. Also lifting it over gates and stuff was hard work.

Don't you find that to be the case?

And why not carbon for an ebike?

Not sure about mounting a bike rack on my car. It's going back within the next year so not really worth buying any specific products for it and I wouldn't want to fit a towbar. (Not even sure you can on my car.)

I was considering something like one of those racks that suckers onto glass as I have a glass roof (as many cars seem to these days) but I'd be worried about the suckers failing and seeing my new expensive bike go tumbling down the road into the car behind...
All EMTBs are more difficult to bunny hop etc it just requires more effort/punch and you learn to use the motor to help initiate it. Some Geo differences such as chainstay length etc also have an impact. Watch Criss Akrigg on his Whyte E160RSX ( yes I know he is exceptional but he shows what is possible).
No gates on my rides!! If a gate is locked or it is a stile it is a footpath! Naughty boy!!
In my opinion carbon is not the right material for a mountain bike. It is brittle and unable to withstand blunt impact. On a road bike where you looking for light weight and stiffness...fine. Neither is desirable or necessary on an EMTB.

Sounds like you have a Tesla company car !! Arm and a leg for either a tow bar or roof rack on that car!! My son has the same problem....................he bought a T5!:giggle:
 

RJUK

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Sep 29, 2021
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All EMTBs are more difficult to bunny hop etc it just requires more effort/punch and you learn to use the motor to help initiate it. Some Geo differences such as chainstay length etc also have an impact. Watch Criss Akrigg on his Whyte E160RSX ( yes I know he is exceptional but he shows what is possible).
No gates on my rides!! If a gate is locked or it is a stile it is a footpath! Naughty boy!!
In my opinion carbon is not the right material for a mountain bike. It is brittle and unable to withstand blunt impact. On a road bike where you looking for light weight and stiffness...fine. Neither is desirable or necessary on an EMTB.

Sounds like you have a Tesla company car !! Arm and a leg for either a tow bar or roof rack on that car!! My son has the same problem....................he bought a T5!:giggle:
Yup, a Tesla. Going into my 4th year with it now, so will be gone by December as we've already extended the lease once. Though I dare say it might be replaced with another.

It was a stile, yes. All on public routes. Took 2 of us to lift the bloomin' thing over.

Yeah, I don't quite have Chris Akrigg's skill! If it worked like that I'd be buying Danny Mac's Santa Cruz! What are Whyte like for warranty? Doubt they have many dealers about?
 

Mikerb

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Where are you in the UK? There are more than you might think. Around here..........Poole, Taunton, Yeovil, Bridgewater. Weston Super Mare. To be honest I dont worry overmuch a bout warranty and fix any issues I have myself. Invariably all that most brands actually warranty is the frame given that the components are warrantied by SRAM/Shimano/Fox/Rockshox etc and except for Specialized, motors warranties are with Bosch/Shimano etc so the bike shop just acts as a middleman. Specialized ( maybe others) are different. They warranty frames and wheels and their own motor/battery ( Brose). Very few LBS have any experience working on electrical issues and resort to just changing out cables or components. They have the benefit of acces to the Bosch diagnostic software, but so do Bosch accredited dealers. In fact the only time I have needed to take the bike to a shop was to get the firmware upgrade in 2020 that increased the Bosch CX motor to 85nm from 75nm. I took it to a local shop (Bosch certified but did not sell or stock any bikes) and got it done for £25.
Certainly as far as the Bosch Smart System is concerned all of those bits, cables, controller etc, are readilly available online to DIY at any outlet that stocks Bosch components. So that just leaves a terminal motor or battery issue which can be dealt with by any Bosch dealer ( Bikes not washing machines!). My Whyte E180 is 2.5 years old now...zero issues. I also now have the E160 RSX so the E180 is reserved for the toughest rides or when I fancy a change! Overall I have been riding EMTB for just short of 4 years now and never needed warranty or LBS help.
As far as longer term/post warranty is concerned, I know I can get a Bosch CX repaired/reconditioned if needed for a bout £250..................about 25% the cost of buying new forks!
So buy....ride....enjoy!!
 

billium

New Member
Jul 10, 2022
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Sussex
I am in the same boat as the OP, wanting a light big battery bike in the next 3 months
I excluded Shimano because they are not fixable out of warranty.
Seems like Brose motors can be made reliable by adding oil seals to keep water out - that's right they don't install crank oil seals in new motors ( stupid stupid) but the aftermarket motor service companies can add them (but voids warranty).
That stupidity should eliminate Specialized Levo for me but I really like that bike so I am still on the fence on that one.

Others:
New Orbea Wild Bosch looks very interesting
Whyte 160 is really nice but but they are heavier
Trek Rail - also little heavier and more expensive with 750 battery
I own a Cube hardtail now and may consider a Stereo too if the price is low enough

I think it will come down to one of the Bosch bike above unless Spec announce a better Brose motor version in the next few weeks Dealer stock may force my decision when it comes time to choose but I think any of the above will work for me
 

irie

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I think it will come down to one of the Bosch bike above unless Spec announce a better Brose motor version in the next few weeks Dealer stock may force my decision when it comes time to choose but I think any of the above will work for me

If Brose did announce a better motor version in the next few weeks then given the size of the company (see below) it would almost certainly take a long time to filter down into saleable eBikes.
 

The Hodge

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It really is a shame the Whyte E160 is so heavy, as it's otherwise a really nice package.
2.5 years now on a Whyte e160rs and while I have slung a leg over other brands in that time..nothing has come close as to how planted this feels out on the trail ..yes it's a bit of a chonk and a bit awkward to manoeuvre in and out of the car (mine lies flat in the back of an estate with the front wheel off..so a little easier than a saloon )...having said that it doesn't ride " heavy " and handles everything well both up & down ..
Another point against it would be battery removal ..not the easiest to remove I'm told ..mine never has been as the bike lives indoors..however for all of these " faults " I wouldn't swap it for any other bike out there ...
 
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RJUK

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Sep 29, 2021
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UK
Thanks for the feedback. As I understand it the newest E160 uses the Bosch rail mount system for the battery and is actually very easy to remove/install.

How hard would it be to retrofit a Kiox 300 display to the E160 though? I really want to have the battery percentage shown and it would be nice to have a display with various data on it. (Ideally top tube mounted.)
 

irie

Active member
Subscriber
May 2, 2022
847
724
West Sussex, UK
Thanks for the feedback. As I understand it the newest E160 uses the Bosch rail mount system for the battery and is actually very easy to remove/install.

How hard would it be to retrofit a Kiox 300 display to the E160 though? I really want to have the battery percentage shown and it would be nice to have a display with various data on it. (Ideally top tube mounted.)
I think you would need the "Bosch Kiox 300 Retrofit Kit".

I have the previous Gen "Kiox Retrofit Kit" shown below.

 

RJUK

Member
Sep 29, 2021
39
8
UK
I think you would need the "Bosch Kiox 300 Retrofit Kit".

I have the previous Gen "Kiox Retrofit Kit" shown below.

I assume it has to be wired in for power? How neat can you get the install?

Where abouts do you ride?
 

irie

Active member
Subscriber
May 2, 2022
847
724
West Sussex, UK
I assume it has to be wired in for power? How neat can you get the install?

Where abouts do you ride?
There's a wire from the control switch on the left to the Kiox display. Then a wire fed internally with the other cables from the Kiox display to the motor. That's it.

Live in Chichester, West Sussex. Ride on local cycle ways, the South Downs (a lot), Queen Elizabeth Country Park, the New Forest, and Bike Park Wales last year. Probably go to Forest of Dean this year. Wife also has a (modified) '22 Rail 5, is a nurse and no shrinking violet. Don't like roads, we used to ride motorcycles (supermotos) but so many increasingly dodgy drivers that the motorcycles are being sold. We are grandparents btw.
 

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
5,219
3,770
Weymouth
Thanks for the feedback. As I understand it the newest E160 uses the Bosch rail mount system for the battery and is actually very easy to remove/install.

How hard would it be to retrofit a Kiox 300 display to the E160 though? I really want to have the battery percentage shown and it would be nice to have a display with various data on it. (Ideally top tube mounted.)
Battery removal and refitting on the latest E160 is simple.....not that it was that difficult on previous models with the right technique.
Adding a Kiox 300 is a 10 minute job.........plug and play. The kit includes a bracket that enables you to fit the mount out in front of the bars or behind the bars alongside the stem. The only decision you need to make when buying the retrofit kit is which of those 2 positions you prefer and then specify whether the 2 cable connections are on the bottom of the Kiox display ( for mounting in front of the bars) or the top of the display ( for mounting alongside the stem). So...mount the bracket, and the mount, click in the Kiox 300. Then pull the cable from the LED Remote and plug it into either socket on the Kiox 300, and use the new short cable supplied in the kit to plug into the other socket on the Kiox 300 and the other end into the LED Remote. Done. Run Flow. The beauty of the system is that for any reason you do not want the Kiox 300 for a particular ride, you just unclick it from its mount........or if you want to remove it completely for whatever reason , that is easy as well. The only thing you might want consider is adding a tether to the Kiox 300.
 

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