Does the Amflow Pro model has automatic shifting?

Yeah, I don't know if the larger Supernova plug fits thru the chainstay hole, I fed the raw wire thru from the other direction and then soldered in-situ.
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Is the connector available in the US yet? I cant seem to find one.
 
Fanatik is the only company in N. America selling the SRAM cable and their pricing fluctuates from $96 to $220 on the rare occasions that they have cables in stock.

Or you can make your own for a little bit less:
 
Is the connector available in the US yet? I cant seem to find one.

Yes, reach out to a dealer, they should be able to get one for you. It's just low stock everywhere so they are constantly on back order

.
 
Fanatik is the only company in N. America selling the SRAM cable and their pricing fluctuates from $96 to $220 on the rare occasions that they have cables in stock.

Or you can make your own for a little bit less:


So just to make 100% sure... the one I want is the 780mm (DJI / Higo Micro A)?
 
Is the connector available in the US yet? I cant seem to find one.
Yes it is. Had my shop install one for me 2 weeks ago. And it works really well especially since it can shift with no load on the system
 
Yes it is. Had my shop install one for me 2 weeks ago. And it works really well especially since it can shift with no load on the system
Did they say how hard it was to install?
 
It did plug right into the motor but they did have to partially remove the rear triangle and drop the motor to route it through there properly
 
It did plug right into the motor but they did have to partially remove the rear triangle and drop the motor to route it through there properly

So all I need is the extension cord and a new GX AXS T-type derailleur correct? Is there anything else?
 
It did plug right into the motor but they did have to partially remove the rear triangle and drop the motor to route it through there properly

I'm going be doing this conversion soon and have been able to find 2 YT videos showing how they did it. The drive unit has to be dropped of course but neither had to do anything with the rear triangle. The Chinese fellow made it look pretty easy. The other had a harder time getting the cable threaded through the chainstay but eventually got it. When I purchased the bike I had the shop install my X0 Transmission DR but had them leave the cable housing in the bike. Hoping to be able to use that to help fish the cable through.

 
I'm going be doing this conversion soon and have been able to find 2 YT videos showing how they did it. The drive unit has to be dropped of course but neither had to do anything with the rear triangle. The Chinese fellow made it look pretty easy. The other had a harder time getting the cable threaded through the chainstay but eventually got it. When I purchased the bike I had the shop install my X0 Transmission DR but had them leave the cable housing in the bike. Hoping to be able to use that to help fish the cable through.

I'm sure if you still have the cable housing that would be MUCH easier, mine was already pulled since had already switched to wireless. My LBS is very meticulous and like to make sure everything is perfect. So while you may not have to do anything with the triangle, they may have just to make it easier on themselves
 
Shifting pod, t type chain, chainring and cassette are also necessary
The cheaper Amflow comes with t-type already. Why would you have to change the chain, chainring, and cassette?

All you'd need is a shifting pod, AXS T-type detailer, and extension cord, correct?
 
Yes, you only need the derailleur, shifter, and extension cord.

Older Amflows came with Eagle drivetrains and you can use an Eagle AXS derailleur in that case for all the same functionality. Newer models have the flat top chains so you need the T-Type "transmission" derailleur.

You'd be crazy to mess with the rear triangle. It's trivially simple to shop-vac a piece of string thru the chainstay if needed to guide the cable thru. You don't need to remove the cranks or even the chain - just the 2 motor bolts. Best done upside down because the hardest part is getting the cables all folded neatly so they don't get pinched by the motor.

Lastly, I can't believe I have to say this, but Jesus, people - don't use masking tape or duct tape! Wow.
If you have some quality tape like kapton or even strapping tape that'd be ideal, but just regular old packing tape or even giftwrapping tape is perfectly fine. And you don't have to butt the cables right up against each other, you can leave a span of loose tape between them to make the corners easier to navigate.
 
Last edited:
Yes, you only need the derailleur, shifter, and extension cord.

Older Amflows came with Eagle drivetrains and you can use an Eagle AXS derailleur in that case for all the same functionality. Newer models have the flat top chains so you need the T-Type "transmission" derailleur.

You'd be crazy to mess with the rear triangle. It's trivially simple to shop-vac a piece of string thru the chainstay if needed to guide the cable thru. You don't need to remove the cranks or even the chain - just the 2 motor bolts. Best done upside down because the hardest part is getting the cables all folded neatly so they don't get pinched by the motor.

Lastly, I can't believe I have to say this, but Jesus, people - don't use masking tape or duct tape! Wow.
If you have some quality tape like kapton or even strapping tape that'd be ideal, but just regular old packing tape or even giftwrapping tape is perfectly fine. And you don't have to butt the cables right up against each other, you can leave a span of loose tape between them to make the corners easier to navigate.



I cant decide on which Amflow. Money isn't an issue. I just don't want the carbon wheels on the Pro. Thanks for all the info.
 
Carbon wheels are nice in that they generally don't crack as easily as aluminum and they always stay straight. Plus a lighter wheel on the front makes the bike feel much more responsive.
Amflow rear wheels seem to be a little fragile however, whether carbon or aluminum. But it's easy enough to slap an aftermarket rear wheel on there if that's your concern, and many folks prefer to mullet the Amflow anyway. You just need a regular 148mm 6-bolt with XD driver (or HG driver if you want to use the odd cassette that comes with the silver model).
 
The cheaper Amflow comes with t-type already. Why would you have to change the chain, chainring, and cassette?

All you'd need is a shifting pod, AXS T-type detailer, and extension cord, correct?
 
Sorry forgot it came with t type I changed mine out to my axis immediately so I don't know what was on there. Just trying to answer the question and anyone else is welcome to chime in and answer their questions
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    41,014
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top