Dengfu E82
- Thread starter kaaskopf
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #62
Small update
I got an amazing offer for an 3x3 hub with belt and electric shift. As a bike nerd i always wanted to try it.
It will make the bike even more heavy but doing a full suspension belt drive seems like a nice challenge and has a cool factor for me.
Currently i have the linkglide madrone setup that works also very good,
so i will move the madrone to my other bike (e10) and will try todo a belt drive conversion on this e82, mainly for the low maintance aspect of the whole setup.
parts ordered;
3x3 hub 12x148 32h
3x3 E.TR.CMD electric MTB trp shifter
3x3 electric actuator
3x3 BRK.203.TRP 2.3 203 disc
3x3 BS.28 Gates cdx sprocket
3x3 CS.24 chain sprocket as backup if belt project is not possible
3x3 brake adapter 180-203
3x3 AP.TA PM1 torque plate
Found cheap aliexpress Gates CDX parts
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i roughly calculated my belt length at 117t with the gates calculator and 39-28t sprockets(smallest that 3x3 offers, and smallest gates offers in 104bcd) i added 3 tooth for belt-growth and tensioner.
My plan is so fab a iscg05 tensioner or go for a hanger mounted tensioner option. I got a pinion bt1 tensioner so i only need an adapter plate
this was quickly throw together for illustration purposes only. it needs to be bigger for 39t cdx sprocket
my plan to power the electric shift actuater is to take a 1t3(lights display battery) bafang canbus cable and tap into the 12v front light cirquit
some might say that is a risk..
but i found out that this 3x3 is closely copied the rohloff design in some places. the electric shift actuater seems similar, and with rohloff it only uses 0.6w at 12v
the bafang front light output is 12v 0.5amp so that is about 6 watts, 10x as much as needed. should be good and no need for extra adapters/wiring
but lights need to be activated on display.
the shifter handle bar controller works on a small watch battery so no wires needed there, its also has ev-spec mounting
I got an amazing offer for an 3x3 hub with belt and electric shift. As a bike nerd i always wanted to try it.
It will make the bike even more heavy but doing a full suspension belt drive seems like a nice challenge and has a cool factor for me.
Currently i have the linkglide madrone setup that works also very good,
so i will move the madrone to my other bike (e10) and will try todo a belt drive conversion on this e82, mainly for the low maintance aspect of the whole setup.
parts ordered;
3x3 hub 12x148 32h
3x3 E.TR.CMD electric MTB trp shifter
3x3 electric actuator
3x3 BRK.203.TRP 2.3 203 disc
3x3 BS.28 Gates cdx sprocket
3x3 CS.24 chain sprocket as backup if belt project is not possible
3x3 brake adapter 180-203
3x3 AP.TA PM1 torque plate
Found cheap aliexpress Gates CDX parts
Gates Carbon Drive CDX Vorderkurbelgarnitur Aluminiumlegierung Elektrofahrrad CenterTrack Kettenrad Fahrradausrüstung - AliExpress 18
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Gates Carbon Antriebsriemen CDX Center Track Bike Belt Drive Carbon Fiber Fahrrad - AliExpress 18
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a.aliexpress.com
i roughly calculated my belt length at 117t with the gates calculator and 39-28t sprockets(smallest that 3x3 offers, and smallest gates offers in 104bcd) i added 3 tooth for belt-growth and tensioner.
My plan is so fab a iscg05 tensioner or go for a hanger mounted tensioner option. I got a pinion bt1 tensioner so i only need an adapter plate
this was quickly throw together for illustration purposes only. it needs to be bigger for 39t cdx sprocket
my plan to power the electric shift actuater is to take a 1t3(lights display battery) bafang canbus cable and tap into the 12v front light cirquit
some might say that is a risk..
but i found out that this 3x3 is closely copied the rohloff design in some places. the electric shift actuater seems similar, and with rohloff it only uses 0.6w at 12v
the bafang front light output is 12v 0.5amp so that is about 6 watts, 10x as much as needed. should be good and no need for extra adapters/wiring
but lights need to be activated on display.
the shifter handle bar controller works on a small watch battery so no wires needed there, its also has ev-spec mounting
Last edited:
bram.biesiekierski
Active member
1.7mm is so small it likely will have no problem. The rear triangle probably flexes laterally more than that
curufinwe_wins
Member
For 2mm spacing, I'd recommend doing that at the chainring bolts instead. Lots of spacer options
- Thread starter
- #67
on m510 the chainring fits inside the spider and thus spacing it the wrong way with chainring bolts
curufinwe_wins
Member
Oh duh, you're right of course. Just looked back at mine. Unfortunate, but there should be about that much extra thread for the lockring so you should be fine there too.
- Thread starter
- #69
oke so i measured the growing chainstay length in size Large and 230x65 shock and 190 rear travel, ifs about 33mm
i tried to make a tensioner myself but any bb mounted option will run into the chainstays, now i know why all the pinion belt drive bikes run a higher chainstay..
also i Tried to contact PRI innovations for their derailleur mounted belt tensioner
(photo from interwebs. belt on a dengfu e22) (link to the build thread ; Belt Installation on the Wattwagons Hydra )
and it could work with the 28t cog of the 3x3 nine hub, but according to their calculations i run into a issue with growing belt length and the gates belt coming in 3 tooth increments which make it to short and too long compressed/uncompressed
might work with 170 rear travel but im not changing the rear shock, i like the amount of travel
or going with different ratios with reduces climbing. both not realy an option for me..
was worth a try
now the chain route
finding a good tensioner that will work with 24t (smallest cog in chain) is another challenge..
i will use a 32t narrow wide front chainring, so my input ratio is going the be 1.33
they sure didnt make it easy with 3x3 Nine's limited cog selection
i have a rohloff DH shorty tensioner and i ordered a UDH direct mount hanger. because its longer. the tensioner normally has a 17t max but maybe this hanger might boost it some to 24t ? worth a try
i tried to make a tensioner myself but any bb mounted option will run into the chainstays, now i know why all the pinion belt drive bikes run a higher chainstay..
also i Tried to contact PRI innovations for their derailleur mounted belt tensioner
(photo from interwebs. belt on a dengfu e22) (link to the build thread ; Belt Installation on the Wattwagons Hydra )
and it could work with the 28t cog of the 3x3 nine hub, but according to their calculations i run into a issue with growing belt length and the gates belt coming in 3 tooth increments which make it to short and too long compressed/uncompressed
might work with 170 rear travel but im not changing the rear shock, i like the amount of travel
or going with different ratios with reduces climbing. both not realy an option for me..
was worth a try
now the chain route
finding a good tensioner that will work with 24t (smallest cog in chain) is another challenge..
i will use a 32t narrow wide front chainring, so my input ratio is going the be 1.33
they sure didnt make it easy with 3x3 Nine's limited cog selection
i have a rohloff DH shorty tensioner and i ordered a UDH direct mount hanger. because its longer. the tensioner normally has a 17t max but maybe this hanger might boost it some to 24t ? worth a try
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #70
still alot going on
3x3 rear hub arrived, its so good looking, made in germany. the electronic shifters feels so damn good and have a small mechanical click to them
the rear belt cog aint going to work, cause the rear belt grows 33mm during suspension travel and belts only come in increments of 3. so i was advised to go different ratios/belt lengths which means more delays.
might try chaindrive in the meantime
also i am in the process of having the front triangle of the frame replaced under warranty because of massive creaking sounds under load.
they are very difficult to deal with but in the end i got a shipping label for a retour and hopefully a new front triangle.
this means i have to rebuild the whole bike at a later stage, but i can add cerakote like i originally wanted
have to send the 3x3 to a wheelbuilder and wait some more
3x3 rear hub arrived, its so good looking, made in germany. the electronic shifters feels so damn good and have a small mechanical click to them
the rear belt cog aint going to work, cause the rear belt grows 33mm during suspension travel and belts only come in increments of 3. so i was advised to go different ratios/belt lengths which means more delays.
might try chaindrive in the meantime
also i am in the process of having the front triangle of the frame replaced under warranty because of massive creaking sounds under load.
they are very difficult to deal with but in the end i got a shipping label for a retour and hopefully a new front triangle.
this means i have to rebuild the whole bike at a later stage, but i can add cerakote like i originally wanted
have to send the 3x3 to a wheelbuilder and wait some more
bram.biesiekierski
Active member
THat sounds like alot of hassles.
Why dont you build your own rear hub/wheel? Its actually not difficult at all. It is a little time consuming for a first go, and perhaps a little daunting. But really its not hard. I build all my own wheels including a couple for the old Kindernay hubs. And now a few wheels for the CYC HD hubs etc. Its actually a kind of enjoyable process i think.
Why dont you build your own rear hub/wheel? Its actually not difficult at all. It is a little time consuming for a first go, and perhaps a little daunting. But really its not hard. I build all my own wheels including a couple for the old Kindernay hubs. And now a few wheels for the CYC HD hubs etc. Its actually a kind of enjoyable process i think.
still alot going on
3x3 rear hub arrived, its so good looking, made in germany. the electronic shifters feels so damn good and have a small mechanical click to them
the rear belt cog aint going to work, cause the rear belt grows 33mm during suspension travel and belts only come in increments of 3. so i was advised to go different ratios/belt lengths which means more delays.
might try chaindrive in the meantime
also i am in the process of having the front triangle of the frame replaced under warranty because of massive creaking sounds under load.
they are very difficult to deal with but in the end i got a shipping label for a retour and hopefully a new front triangle.
this means i have to rebuild the whole bike at a later stage, but i can add cerakote like i originally wanted
have to send the 3x3 to a wheelbuilder and wait some more
- Thread starter
- #72
it is a time thing, i choose to let someone i know build the wheel, he has all the tools and knowledge, i dont.
electronic trigger shifter mounted on ev spec adapter
the electronic shift actuater unit
TRP 203 disc made for 3x3 bike so it matches with the front
torque arm / post mount adapter 180-203
the hub itself, shifting side, here the actuator mounts
its massive but not very heavy..
first up i have to make up a cable for the actuator. The shifter has its own small watch battery so no wires on handlebar.
For the actuator i plan to make a 1t3 can bus cable with motor- hmi/battery/lights
the lights output has 10x the power i need and the right voltage so i will try to take that and put a higo 4 pin male on it for first tests. (backup plan would involve a power converter from battery voltage direct but this will take space and more wiring)
in the meantime i will get the hub laced up and the frame repainted.
electronic trigger shifter mounted on ev spec adapter
the electronic shift actuater unit
TRP 203 disc made for 3x3 bike so it matches with the front
torque arm / post mount adapter 180-203
the hub itself, shifting side, here the actuator mounts
its massive but not very heavy..
first up i have to make up a cable for the actuator. The shifter has its own small watch battery so no wires on handlebar.
For the actuator i plan to make a 1t3 can bus cable with motor- hmi/battery/lights
the lights output has 10x the power i need and the right voltage so i will try to take that and put a higo 4 pin male on it for first tests. (backup plan would involve a power converter from battery voltage direct but this will take space and more wiring)
in the meantime i will get the hub laced up and the frame repainted.
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