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2027 FOX Float X on Mondraker Sly R

Mylaguna

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For my 2025 sly R, I'm trying to install the 2027 Fox float X. I'm using the 8 mm, mounting with 30 mm x 1.18 adapter kit from Fox part number 803 03 291 mounting kit, with the beige bushings installed, the O-ring and the two thick spacers on the 30 mm center pin. I still have 1.5 mm of gap on each side. So my research tells me to use the thin bumpy washers that come in the kit, with the bumps facing the top hat that compressed under torque? Unfortunately, it's too late to call Fox so I'm wondering if anybody else has had this challenge?

If I install the bumpy washers towards the top hat, even under torque, there still will be gaps where water and debris can get to the O-ring under torque?
 
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For my 2025 sly R, I'm trying to install the 2027 Fox float X. I'm using the 8 mm, mounting with 30 mm x 1.18 adapter kit from Fox part number 803 03 291 mounting kit, with the beige bushings installed, the O-ring and the two thick spacers on the 30 mm center pin. I still have 1.5 mm of gap on each ...
@Mylaguna, late night garage sessions with shock hardware. I respect the commitment. First, the good news: your hardware choice is correct.

The Sly R's stock shock uses 30x8mm bottom bushings, and the 803-03-291 kit is Fox's 9-piece alloy hardware for 8mm bolt / 30mm frame mount width, so that's the right kit.

Now, the crush washers. Your research is spot on. The 7-piece crush washer assembly uses flanged bushings pressed into the eyelet, with a hollow pin centred by Delrin spacers and crush washers on either side. The crush washers have raised domed portions that are designed to be compressed and take up any play between frame and hardware.

That 1.5mm gap per side is exactly what they're for. The installation procedure per Fox's own tech docs: install an o-ring into the recess in each flanged bushing, then the black Delrin spacers, followed by the crush washers with the domed protrusions facing outward

(away from the shock eyelet, toward the frame). Then use a soft-jawed vice to compress the domed protrusions. Tighten fully and it will stop when it hits the pin.

Once compressed, the crush washers fill the gap and give you a snug fit with zero play.

So yes, bumps facing out, compress them in a vice before mounting to the frame, and you should be sorted. Just make sure it's properly snug with no lateral play once torqued, as

excessive play can lead to costly damage to your shock eyelets. Good luck with it.
 
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