2021 Cube Stereo 160 Pivot Bearing Replacement

Daboss

Member
Jan 17, 2021
43
27
Melbourne
2 years on and a tad over 5200ks the bearings are shot, we'll they were junk to begin with, anyhow I've replaced them all apart from the double bearing that sits on the end of the chainstay, these bearings are 63801, they sit back to back, so you can't press them out as I have every tool for the job, and a blind bearing puller hasn't worked either, does anyone or has someone managed to get these out, if so how please..

Thanks in advance

16811164467691583981484.jpg
 

RustyMTB

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Jul 22, 2020
2,494
6,103
UK
I replied & deleted but I do feel a blind puller may still be your best option. You say it failed, how so?
 

Daboss

Member
Jan 17, 2021
43
27
Melbourne
I replied & deleted but I do feel a blind puller may still be your best option. You say it failed, how so?
As there isn't much if any gap behind the bearing, the collect even after tightening as much as you can under force pulls out after a few pulls, I've even tried a wind out method however this yields the same result, I've also ordered another type of bearing extractor from bearingprotools for the 608 being 8mm ID.
Last resort will be the LBS or bearing joint and see if they can remove this stuck bearings, honesty though wtf put two bearings back to back with fa gap in between to remove, absolute joke mate.
 

RustyMTB

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Jul 22, 2020
2,494
6,103
UK
Right. I was thinking the right sized blind puller would work but I can see it's a pain with the bearings butted up against each other that way. The only other thing that springs to mind is drifting them out with some variation of a bottom bracket flared tool but even then I don't know if that exists & if it does whether there's enough room to get on the backside of the bearing.
 

Daboss

Member
Jan 17, 2021
43
27
Melbourne
Right. I was thinking the right sized blind puller would work but I can see it's a pain with the bearings butted up against each other that way. The only other thing that springs to mind is drifting them out with some variation of a bottom bracket flared tool but even then I don't know if that exists & if it does whether there's enough room to get on the backside of the bea
It's an absolute ballach, I've spent 3 days on this pair of bearings lol, just can't get enough leverage on it to get it to move, hopefully once the tool from bearingprotools rocks up, rather than trying multiple times with a dyna bolt I've order then expanding 608 remover, see how that pans out, otherwise there staying in there, or buy a new rear triangle for cube.
 

Hattori-Hanzo

Member
Apr 10, 2023
234
232
UK
I'm no expert but the first thing that springs to mind to remove those would be a "slide hammer" with correctly sized collet?

Might be worth looking into that route?
 

Daboss

Member
Jan 17, 2021
43
27
Melbourne
I'm no expert but the first thing that springs to mind to remove those would be a "slide hammer" with correctly sized collet?

Might be worth looking into that route?
All in my first post 😉, have so and has failed unfortunately, as stated the bearings are so bloody close there's no real gap behind as it appears there's a channel the separates both bearings also, so the gap is quite shallow which is why the blind puller isn't working.
 

Hattori-Hanzo

Member
Apr 10, 2023
234
232
UK
ah I see, when you said puller I imagined one of the threaded screw types.
Can both bearings be removed from the same side?

Would some gentle heat from a mapp torch help?

Hopefully the new tool you've ordered does the job.
 

RustyMTB

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Jul 22, 2020
2,494
6,103
UK
Occurred to me too that if you could heat the end of the chainstay with a heat gun, it might just be enough to help the puller work. Fraught though, balancing it between not heating the bearings & damaging the paint.
 

Hattori-Hanzo

Member
Apr 10, 2023
234
232
UK
Yeah that was my thought.

I had to heat a stuck pedal bolt to cherry red recently as it was corroded solid.
Got it free and it didn't affect the paint on the crank arm too badly, though I understand this is a different scenario, but you shouldn't need to get it any where near that hot hopefully.
 

Beaker2135

Well-known member
Subscriber
May 13, 2021
179
257
Cumbria
I’ve just done mine, albeit on a 2019, I just pressed them both out with a vice using a couple of sockets.
I didn’t but If you need to use heat a kettle of boiling water is usually hot enough to help but cool enough not to do any damage. It can be messy though
 

Daboss

Member
Jan 17, 2021
43
27
Melbourne
ah I see, when you said puller I imagined one of the threaded screw types.
Can both bearings be removed from the same side?

Would some gentle heat from a mapp torch help?

Hopefully the new tool you've ordered does the job.
As stated they cannot be as their sperated by a lip between them, appreciate your input.
I’ve just done mine, albeit on a 2019, I just pressed them both out with a vice using a couple of sockets.
I didn’t but If you need to use heat a kettle of boiling water is usually hot enough to help but cool enough not to do any damage. It can be messy though
Yeah not sure if the frames are the same, they appear different, I definitely know you cant push these right through due to the lip seperator between the bearings which make it quite a headache.
 

Beaker2135

Well-known member
Subscriber
May 13, 2021
179
257
Cumbria
As stated they cannot be as their sperated by a lip between them, appreciate your input.

Yeah not sure if the frames are the same, they appear different, I definitely know you cant push these right through due to the lip seperator between the bearings which make it quite a headache.

Yes I’ve just seen in this post that there is a lip between the bearings on yours, they were just back to back in mine
Hope you find an easy and cheap resolution
 

Jeffrey

Active member
Jul 29, 2020
97
461
Switzerland
I own almost the same bike in 140... reaching soon 10'000 km :eek:
These bearings are still original but I re-greased them at around 3000km...

As there is no space between the two bearings, have you tried to push/hammer down both bearings at the same time?
A cold-spray may help to win few microns.

The last option would be to destroy (drill) the inner part of the bearing and remove the balls. Then using the ball groove on the outer part you can extract the bearing with a blind puller. I had once to do this on an extremely damaged blind bearing...
 

Tepi

Member
Nov 18, 2018
43
25
Finland
2 vuotta ja vähän yli 5200 ks laakerit ovat ammuttu, ne olivat aluksi roskaa, joka tapauksessa olen vaihtanut ne kaikki paitsi kaksoislaakeri, joka on ketjutuen päässä, nämä laakerit ovat 63801. Istu selkä vastakkain, joten et voi painaa niitä ulos, koska minulla on kaikki työkalut tähän työhön, eikä myöskään sokealaakerin vedin ole toiminut, onko kukaan tai onnistunut saamaan nämä pois, jos on niin niin kiitos..

Kiitos etukäteen

View attachment 111251
Siis kierretangosta osa- aluslevyT- 2Xmutterit ,lisäksi sopiva hylsyavain jonka sisään laakerin voi vetää.ONNISTUU
 

Spiff

Active member
Feb 27, 2019
411
234
Earth
Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* UPDATE 20230420: The biggest issue with this method is to screw the bolt that opens the anchor and tightens it inside the bearing inner race. The inner race rotates so to tighten the bolt you have to grip the anchor with a plier, but it is quite difficult to grip it. So I just soldered a 10mm NUT to the Sleeve anchor, I used a torch and strong tin solder with 6% Silver, which is used to solder copper pipes. Now I can easily grip it with a hex wrench. See pictures below

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

Taco Laton 2.jpg Taco Laton 1.jpg Rodamiento 5.jpg Sleeve Anchor w Nut 1.jpg Sleeve Anchor w Nut 2.jpg
 
Last edited:

Daboss

Member
Jan 17, 2021
43
27
Melbourne
Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

View attachment 111678 View attachment 111679 View attachment 111680
I tried a similar method with a Dyna bolt and PVC pipe over the bearing to no avail they seem tight asf in there if the Dyna bolt can't pull it out , I've ordered the tool from the UK should be here in Aus soon.

Appreciate the reply
 

Spiff

Active member
Feb 27, 2019
411
234
Earth
I tried also the Dyna bolt and it didn't work for me either. But the "Brass Anchor Sleeve" worked well.

I know about the BearingProTool, although the pictures in their web are not of the 8mm 688 one, but a larger one, and I fear that the 688 one will have a 1mm wall between a 6mm bolt and a 8mm inner race, and this may be too thin to be robust.

Please, post pictures of it and tell us if it looks robust or it looks "single use".

BearingProTool.jpg
 
Last edited:

Daboss

Member
Jan 17, 2021
43
27
Melbourne
I tried also the Dyna bolt and it didn't work for me either. But the "Brass Anchor Sleeve" worked well.

I know about the BearingProTool, although the pictures in their web are not of the 8mm 688 one, but a larger one, and I fear that the 688 one will have a 1mm wall between a 6mm bolt and a 8mm inner race, and this may be too thin to be robust.

Please, post pictures of it and tell us if it looks robust or it looks "single use".

View attachment 111705
That's what I've ordered eta Friday, giddy up hopefully 😁
 

E-MAD MALC

Active member
Subscriber
Nov 16, 2021
284
144
EAST SUSSEX
Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

View attachment 111678 View attachment 111679 View attachment 111680
Yep
Seen this method used and work
Also I see a yt vid of someone using a drift getting a perchase on the inner side faces of the bearings looked a right have but it worked
 

Spiff

Active member
Feb 27, 2019
411
234
Earth
Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* UPDATE 20230420: The biggest issue with this method is to screw the bolt that opens the anchor and tightens it inside the bearing inner race. The inner race rotates so to tighten the bolt you have to grip the anchor with a plier, but it is quite difficult to grip it. So I just soldered a 10mm NUT to the Sleeve anchor and now I can easily grip it with a hex wrench. See pictures below

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

View attachment 111678 View attachment 111679 View attachment 111680 View attachment 112146 View attachment 112147

UPDATE: The biggest issue with this method is to screw the bolt that opens the anchor and tightens it inside the bearing inner race. The inner race rotates so to tighten the bolt you have to grip the anchor with a plier, but it is quite difficult to grip it. So I just soldered a 10mm NUT to the Sleeve anchor, I used a torch and strong tin solder with 6% Silver, which is used to solder copper pipes.

Now I can easily grip it with a hex wrench. I still have to try it and replace the dropout bearings in my bike, but it looks promising.

Sleeve Anchor w Nut 1.jpg Sleeve Anchor w Nut 2.jpg
 

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