2019 Decoy CF Pro Headset - Acros AZX260 – Help

SteveSSS

Member
Aug 14, 2019
70
40
Lancaster, UK
Hi,
I’ve just sent my forks off for warranty work so thought I’d replace my headset bearings at the same time and I’m having a few problems and could do with some advice.
The headset cover (red seal underneath) and compression ring are pretty mangled (pics attached).
The outer races both top and bottom are stuck in the head tube, the bearings and seals pretty much fell out. The block lock is still in the head tube, which works with the crown race.
  • Does anyone have an idea why the seals got mangled, 9 months old and admittedly the first time I’ve looked at them, they have felt a little stiff / loose hence the bearing change but I’ve never seen this before.
  • Can I tap the outer races out with a screw driver from the inside, I’m not sure if they’re pressed in and I’m nervous tapping them out due to the head tube being carbon.
  • Do I need to remove the block lock?

    Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

headset1.jpg


headset2.jpg
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,688
the internet
  • Does anyone have an idea why the seals got mangled, 9 months old and admittedly the first time I’ve looked at them, they have felt a little stiff / loose hence the bearing change but I’ve never seen this before.
Wear from dirt/water ingress, corrosion and/or poor pre-load adjustment causing excess seal drag.
Also, What do the block lock tabs look like? are they deformed at all?
  • Can I tap the outer races out with a screw driver from the inside, I’m not sure if they’re pressed in and I’m nervous tapping them out due to the head tube being carbon.
You "could" carefully drift them out with a screwdriver but a blind bearing puller will do a better job
  • Do I need to remove the block lock?
If just replacing the bearings and compression ring etc. No. If replacing the headset cups, Yes. The block lock tabs are part of the upper bearing cup.
 

SteveSSS

Member
Aug 14, 2019
70
40
Lancaster, UK
Thanks for the info.
I took it to my LBS to see if he could tap the bearing races out and he couldn’t, they’re seized in. The mechanic did point out that the bearings had gone in dry and weren’t installed correctly, they hadn’t been pushed in flush, so when pre-loaded it jammed them into the bearing cups at an angle, which appears to have caused the ware on the top cap seal.
I’ve brought the bike home, and tapped out the bearing cups, I’ve ordered a new headset, as it seems the quickest easiest fix, just more costly.
 

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