Search results

How do you connect the original main battery charger without disconnecting anything? Note that I never said to disconnect the extender, but to connect the original charger to the original battery, the first thing you need to do is remove the connector from the bike to the original battery so...

Let's see... seriously? Let's go by parts, as Jack (the Ripper) said. First we connect the original charger to the bike, to do this, you have to disconnect the cable from the bike to the battery, right? if you unplug it, that battery is no longer connected to anything and if you don't unplug it...

You disconnect the wiring of the bicycle to which "the box" is connected from the main battery as soon as you are going to charge the main battery, so both batteries are disconnected from each other at that moment. You can charge both at the same time without any problem, in fact I think it is...

To charge the main battery you have to disconnect it to connect the charger so once disconnected they cannot be seen in any way and that is why you can charge them both at the same time.

It is not my installation, I have used 12AWG but I think that 14AWG can be used judging by the diameter of the original cables.

Like this: In the plug it puts on, it has both positives attached (original battery and motor) so that when it removes the extender, it puts that plug on it and everything is hidden as if nothing had happened, the connector is an MT60.

I use 2 ideal diodes of 50A each, because if on some occasion I do not have the extender, something more than 20A can pass through one of them and of course, it will not work. I have not understood what it says, putting the original wiring clear that it continues to work, why would not I do it...

It is clear, the negative is not the problem.

And the positives are connected as I have indicated in the image? One test you can do is to connect only the original battery and check that there is NO current in the in+ of the extender, and vice versa, disconnect the main battery, connect only the extender and check that there is no current...

I want to think that he meant that the last one on the right (not left) is the one that goes to the engine. Apart from that, I am not convinced how you have connected the negatives, you only need 1 negative (they are all connected) that goes to both IN-, nothing has to be connected in OUT-...

I do not know the characteristics of Shimano engines, this is a peak power reading on a Brose 1.3 (Drive T) from a colleague from another forum. I do not know the voltage it had at that time, but assuming that it had it fully loaded, I mean at 42v: 785w / 42v = 18.69A At 36v: 785w / 36v = 21.8A

I used this table as a reference, taking into account that the peak of our motors can reach 20A, I sized everything to support those amps. It is also true that if it is going to work in parallel and both batteries have similar capacities, the maximum of each one would be 10A, but I preferred...

Both me and my bike are happy with the extender, not a single problem, just cheers. That connector is going to fry, it is 22AWG and the minimum that would be 14AWG, ideally 12AWG.

Sure he can, the diode does not affect this. In the case of Turbo Levo, it is not possible to connect to the charging port as it is the junction between the motor and the battery and we have to disconnect the motor to access the charging port. ---------------------------------- Claro que él...

This is a test of my Drive T And a Drive S... As you can see, the Drive S (1.3) go up to 780w (the image show 785w, I know) And in absolutely all the solid state relays that I have seen, they indicate that they must take their radiator to cool because they get very hot ... especially when...

It does not seem very correct to me, it assumes that it will always work with the extender and therefore the load will be shared, but 10A is very little and also that these relays get quite hot. Besides that the ratio of 10A and 250VAC is not very comparable to the volts in DC that we use. I...

I first turn on the bike through the main battery and then I plug in the extender, and at the end I always disconnect the extender, otherwise the motor continues to consume even though the main battery is off. There is an option, as those of Levorex mount it, that mounts it with 2 solid state...

Yes, of course it is interesting, the issue is that a switch that holds a possible 20A is difficult to find (I was going to put 2 of 10A in parallel) but in my case, when I get home, I open the zipper and disconnect the battery with the XT60 connector and it is already solved, I do not reconnect...

If both are going to work in parallel and with a similar voltage, I don't think it is a problem, I have preferred to size it so that it can work with either of them, for whatever it may be. If for whatever reason you must use only the extender (not in parallel or with the original one with...

Well, it depends on whether the charging port of the BMS is alternative or exclusive ... But I have never tried it, and since it can depend on the BMS used, I preferred to put two diodes and not depend on it.