I think you're overcomplicating the whole thing. MTB suspension is realtively simple to set-up because they are (mostly) relatively simple units. Most people use use a technique called 'bracketing' whether they realise it or not.
Set suspension to suggested settings, go to a trail you ride...
There is some weird logic in this thread.
People are stating they can't feel the difference between suspension changes (which blows my mind), so they then spend money on a tool that can only tell them to adjust clickers and air pressure.....which, by their own admission, they couldn't tell...
Well, that tool is giving you BS answers. If you honestly can't feel if moving the clickers 3 clicks one way or the other, is 'better' or 'worse' you can't be helped.
Chuck the tool in the bin, set all clickers to the middle and crack on.
Perhaps try setting reb the way I suggested and try it to see if it feels better. Rebound produces relatively noticeable changes in how active the suspension feels and the bike grips in corners. Almost everyone is capable of determining if those things are getting better or worse.
The forks...
Ah okay, as you say, same principle applies. You cant get more rebound damping without a tuner modifying the shim stack.
Google how to set your rebound on your fork, with max damping dialled in, it's hard to believe that you need more. In fact, it's hard to believe you need max damping. What...
You can ride off a curb and get a reasonable idea if you rebound is too fast or too slow. Google the method and try it. It may help you determine if what the SUSS is asking for is a bit...errrr....suss :LOL:
The rebound circuit in the shock should be able to handle upto the max rated shock...