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Thanks for explaining, that table seems good. But my point is the i-version(13S 13A), does not follow that table. Now at fully charged it shows 86%. On my brief test on f-version it was at 100% when fully charged, so based on that the f-version is according to the table but the i-version is not.

So tried the f1 version briefly in my yard. Battery was full and it showed 100% on the display. Installed the i1 version and went for a proper ride. Battery still basically full(99% on bms) but display showing 84%. After the ride it was showing 31%, same time bms showing 51%. Otherwise it was...

I have been on faketaxi f1 for some time and I like it a lot. Power delivery is smooth, battery performance is good. When I drain the battery completely I never go below 5%. Usually at around 10% it starts switching off. I guess it is the bms cutting out, I might have one or several cell going...

Will this let me change parameters, as I now only can do with besst tool?

So i had a new issue. I have been planning to change bearings in the linkage. Not because of bad bearings, only because it is already ridden over 5000 km on stock bearings. Old ones are still smooth. Yesterday I noticed big play on the left side chainstay/seatstay bearing, like 2-3 mm. So...

I have emptied my battery fully several times and used it with different firmware and I still have same problem. It has been present already for over a year.

I have this same issue. No idea what the reason is, but luckily I have smart bms so I can do it from phone. First I did not like it, but now when I got used to it, it is like a soft lock for the bike. No way any "normal" person could figure this out. If you don't have smart bms, maybe you can...

"official thread" build thread Similar bike Just search, there is loads of info here.

This is interesting! I have the f1 firmware, Jbd bms. At 4% it shut off by itself. I was thinking it might a single, or a few, cells going too low. After maybe 30 seconds it started again. But only for maybe 10 minutes more of easy riding.

A 13A firmware (like the standard 43V bafang firmware) is close to 700W using the 48V battery.

So FAKETAXI20260210f1 tried and tested. Feels good, power delivery is smooth. I don't know if I were imagining, but it felt like maybe a tiny bit more overrun than the 20260202f1. Not much in any way, but the earlier version had close to zero. This felt good, since it is predictable. I was...

This won’t work, the bolt is 8mm but the nut is 10mm OD. If you use the existing nut, you can put any M8 bolt with partly unthreaded part(~25mm). The original also has a cone shaped part to account for, so if you add that and a spacer it needs to be about 30mm unthreaded. The original bolt is...

Well I have been running the 43V version with 13S battery for a year now, around 2000 km, so it seems to hold up well. Still if the only difference is maximum power I probably don’t need it. Even if power is always nice to have, I did it to get more out of the battery. I have two batteries...

One question on the different voltage firmwares. 11S is using 36V firmware base, but 13S is using 48V firmware. Since it can handle one more cell in serial connection shouldn't the 13S be using 43V firmware base? And 14S 48V and so on..

I have not tried all, but the road version for 43V at least had a loong overrun. But the worst about it was that it was not consistant, ranging from maybe 0,5-2 seconds. It made technical riding extremly difficult.

Where can I find these updated versions? It seems the links are only to the previous versions.

Thank you for this! I tried the 13S f1 version today with a 48V battery. This was the smooth version. Indeed it is very smooth, very gentle power delivery and almost no override. I will try the other version at some point, but this is how I like it. Very natural feel, needs a lot of rider input...

Well it would be very strange if bafang said it is ok. Then they would just do it themself. I have been running it now already for a long time and it is great. The battery percentage of course is wrong as mentioned, but more power(slightly) and longer range is all good. I am thinking about...

Yes you can, battery has nothings to do with structural integrity. I did a few rides like this when my frame was new and didn’t have a battery.

Hi, do you know what exactly is rattling in the motor? I have same motor on different frame, but I don't experience anything coming from the motor. I have serviced my motor a few times and from what I see there is nothing that should be able to move inside. I have had a lot of other things...