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Thanks! I couldn't find any steel chainring with the same offset or spider connection than the originale, hence I went for a Race Face aluminium one.

I think that replacing a locking when it becomes loose is an excellent advise. Moreover hen it becomes loose the locking can actually become "ovale": mine was totally deformed. It is somehow good that aluminium piece is the weak one as a damage on the engine rotor side would be much much more...

Fingers crossed for my new attempt with the (formerly missing) o’ring joint, a brand new Bosch’s gen4 lock ring and loctite purple (the lightest) in its female contour. Meticulous measuring of the torque to the specified 30 N.m

I had frequent (4x in 2.5 years) incidents due to untight lock ring Bosch gen4. This time my lockring became ovale! :eek: ...Luckily I believe the male threads of the engine rotor axis looks OK. :) When removing the lockring, I observed there was no O-ring: actually I suspect that my retailer...

Indeed. Or verbal statements differ from written statements as the latter could engage responsibility in case a strong torque would create damages. you could try to get a written statement of the US support, as I managed to get in EU ;)

I got an official answer from Bosch support: they confirm one should strictly stick to the specified 25-30 N.m which is already a lot by the way. See attachment.

Many thanks for the details. 30 N.Mm is clearly mentioned not only on the label but in all official service manuals You can find those (in their French version) on the web site of the reputated Velolab in Belgium for example Manuels technique BOSCH eBike Now the speed assistance limit is...

I actually opened a ticket yesterday with Bosch (contact form for questions related to electrical engines for bike) precisely with that question in order to get their official line. Let's see. I'll share the answer I will get on the forum. Meanwhile I stick to 30 N.m and if it still become...

Many thanks for sharing this information. Our bike faced the issue three times already (over 6000km) and purchased the necessary tools to fix it without having to go back to the bike shop. I will however at this stage stick to the official spec: 30 N.m to give it a try (as I am not 100%...

I recommend you to find a store not too far from home. eMTB require a bit more maintenance per kilometre - I am doing 4000km a year - than standard bikes and it is cumbersome to have to commute far when needed. IMHO what matters more is the bike brand. I am in Cannondale and recommend it …but...

Somebody from the development team of Bosch answered on my AppStore downgraded note for the IOS app as such: « Thank you for reaching out. We are aware of the problem with random Kiox navigation stops, and are already working on a solution for our users at full speed. Thank you for your...

It is a blue line without any map/direction, but indicating roughly the way to go. In most case, it is clear enough. When you come to crossroad you have to be a bit more attentive to figure out. What I like very much is the fact that you get the estimation of the "arrival time" based on your...

Sorry to ask but I was myself confronted with a newbie issue: are you sure you have properly inserted the wide chain links (external) on the wide teeth, and the narrow chain links (internal) on the narrow teeth. With new chain and transmission, it should not be possible but with a used chain it...

I think your approach is much more resistant …but a bit more complicated and a bit less visually appealing than the glue+tighten black tape. Note that the rubber part in contact with the handle bar has a kind of « notch » which I think already renforces the circular solidity if it is tightly...

Thanks a lot for the hints. It requires an hexagonal tool that can only be used on one side. I was scared about how strong had to try but a professional friend advised me to go really really strongly and not to worry if I hear (as I was) some sudden cracks: it is not an issue provided that the...

I am a bit desperate as it appears impossible (at least for me) to remove my front wheel: it is completely blocked. I tried to put a bit of WD40, I used a pipe to extend the tool and have more force: no success. I just managed to deform the tool and I am afraid that my wheel axis is now a bit...

Thanks I had spotted indeed a few useful and relevant post and started to contribute. Btw, imho Cannondale would deserve a section, don't you think?

Thanks but I don't have the tool for the locking ring as you do have. As I purchased the bike to a local retailer and it is still under guarantee, I will pass by.

I experienced after some use of the chainring, the chain (even a brand new one) can actually be wrongly positionned! One may then suspect it is about time to replace the chainring while it suffices to ensure wide teeth are positioned properly on the outer spots of the chain. I only understood...

…I just noticed you wanted a 36T rather than 34T but I guess keeping the spider is still possible. Moreover, easier as there is no need to unmount the locker ring and the pedal.