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I've got more power than I need on my Rise so 'more power' is not something I need. FWIW I'm not bothered by the fairly quiet whine from the motor either. But eMTBs are expensive and the motors are still not as robust as one might hope. The Rise is <19kg but lighter with more range for less...

...you want to do is point it down hill and hang on then current geo is fine but for 'proper' riding (i.e. going up hills too 😂) it's way too sluggish*. Geometry that only starts to work above 20mph is inappropriate for 90% of riders but like many sports the influence of the top 10% racers is...

Yes, (20years actually) from when steering was lively, men were real men and... sorry, got carried away there for a moment :D But, yes, maybe this is not the thread....

...shirt wheelbase. To me modern MTB/eMTBs handle horribly, falling into low speed turns and generally feeling stodgy, slow steering and unresponsive*. But I was never a downhiller which is where modern geometry makes some sense. * Relatively speaking, obviously, my previous Urrun and current...

Shimano's shortest are 160mm (which I have) so I was looking at Miranda and Pinnd 150/155 cranks. The Mirandas are a fair bit cheaper than Pinnd...

I'm an old MTBer (I started in the early '80s before suspension was even a thought, my second MTB was an Orange Clockwork, you won't even have heard of my first) and have used clippless pretty much from the off. I can't maintain superfast cadences these days but mostly pedal in the '80's rpm on...

Yes, I went from 170mm to 160mm (the shortest Shimano make for a Steps motor) on my 2022 Urrun and was impressed with the change. I've moved them over onto my 2025 Rise now I'ge passed the Urrun on to (my much taller than me) #1 son.

...of the rides that I used to do in my 40's but many older riders can't spin fast anymore and would benefit from being able to ride at lower cadence* without compromising the motor and battery's efficiency. And, what about all those e-hybrids and e-shoppers, surely they are not optimised for...

Get well soon Paddy. Can't help WRT elbow pads but I would definitely get the bike looked at, it's probably fine but carbon frames don't take kindly to impact damage.

I have a Thule two bike carrier, it will carry 45kg so just gets two ebikes on it. But it's a pain to get the bikes on as the wheel cups are sloped (like most bike racks) and the bike tries to roll of one way or another while you're attaching the fixing straps or, especially when feeding the top...

I ride in the UK, mostly gentle mixed use trails these days. Not many other bikes but there can be loads of walkers from pole wielding wannabe Everest conquerers to mother, daughter and grandchild in a buggy and one of my regular rides starts offroad passing through a stable yard so quite a few...

I have a GoPro Hero 4 and a Insta 360 mk 4 and both provide footage that is way better than my ability to create great videos. Once you get a camera that can take clear stable images (like both of the above) the quality of the finished video is down to your editing ability. One thing to...

...ebike) 18 months ago, I don't ride every day (or every week actually) so it's not getting hammered and will probably be the only eMTB I'll ever buy*. My youngest analogue bike is my Orange G3 bitsa which I built from used bits about 15-20 years ago and still ride when appropriate so I'm not...

The OP seems to be in Europe, e-bikes here are governed down to 25kph/15.5mph. Anything faster is either classed as a motorcycle or is simply illegal to use on public roads/trails. Penalties for riding without licence, insurance or road tax can be pretty stiff and, whether one believes it is...

I have a hardtail eMTB, an Orbea Urrun and love it. I totally see the attraction of full sus (and full power) but unless your are planning 'balls to the wall' downhills at speed the hardtail will have it covered. You already have the best form of rear suspension anyway, it's called 'legs'. Full...

AFAICS here is a lot of confused information about Li-Ion battery care on the web, I'm no expert but a couple of things I've picked up are that storage is safer at 60-70%, higher and there is an increased risk of fire (which is still tiny compared to a petrol powered vehicle) but the BMS will...

Sounded pretty rude to me...

Surely the less hard you pedal the less battery you use? Either way your numbers don't tally with mine, I get 20 miles (32km) on around 1 bar, so 20% of my 540 Wh battery or about 110 Wh. This on road with around 800-1000 ft of climbing. Maybe 30% for 20 ,miles off-road. The only time when...

1. What is your average ride length (time or distance)? 10 - 20 miles, 1 - 2½ hours 2. What size is your battery? 540 W/h 3. Does your average ride consume all of your charge? No, rarely much more than 20%, usually 10 - 15% 4. Do you let your motor do as much of the work as possible or do your...

I think you might find that your battery is better than that after 1000 charge cycles, Shimano warrantee that your battery will still have not less than 60% capacity after 1000 cycles so yours may well have considerably more at that point (this has proved the case with EV batteries which have...