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I haven't yet found a setup I really like. I previously had really high forward bars on this bike, but it didn't allow rapid changes of direction because (a) high bars (forward or back) need to travel further to achieve the same lean angle, and (b) I'm not very tall, so I don't have a huge range...

Does anyone else find very short stems twitchy, and reversed stems floppy? I tried a Rulezman 15 mm stem + spacers to get my hands almost exactly where they would be with a BMB-style setup. In both the forward and reversed positions it felt nervous/twitchy. That fits my general experience: once...

I don't know. I'd have to do some kind of controlled testing. For illustration, Zero Friction Cycling's tests found the XO1 Eagle chains lasted about 2.5x as long as the GX Eagle chains, which demonstrates that chain quality (e.g. a hard coating) can have a major impact on longevity. KMC's EPT...

I did say that, and it is an accurate reflection of my experience with those chains. I'm still not sure what your point is. Are you denying that Shimano chains can wear that much after 10-15 hours' riding caked in mud with up to 200 Nm of torque going through them? Are you denying that the KMC...

I claimed Shimano chains sometimes wear to 0.5% in a couple rides in bad conditions (where one ride is lapping a bike park for 8 hours with with a high-power motor and the drivetrain caked in mud) and that KMC eGlide chains last much longer. Obviously those conditions "destroy" KMC chains...

As you know, I didn't say anything of the sort. I just said the eGlide chains last longer than the Shimano chains (e.g. LG500), in my experience. That shouldn't be surprising given that they are specifically designed for ebikes, cost more, weigh more, and have an anti-corrosion coating. It's no...

Yeah, Deore Linkglide 11-48 might be the way to go. You're welcome, but I'm mostly following Adam's advice from Zero Friction Cycling (apart from the chain recommendations; he hasn't tested those KMC chains last I checked). His website isn't the most user-friendly but there's good info on...

Initial thoughts: - Nice to see a removable battery. - Alloy is fine/good. - High stack is good, and head angle can be adjusted with a headset or longer fork, so geo is mostly fine. - Sadly no mullet option, or else I'd be tempted. A 170 fork and 27.5 rear wheel would leave the BB at about 333...

Caked in mud, lapping the bike park at 3000 W / 200 Nm.

I have XT Linkglide 11-50t LG700 on my bike with a 3kw 210nm CYC motor, 36t chainring, 150mm cranks, and I still use all the gears - though rarely the highest or lowest. I'd prefer a cheaper, lighter 8-10 speed cassette but still want the range, to conserve battery and make it rideable if the...

I'm heavier than you and never had a breakage on my EVO (2nd gen), but I removed it several reasons: - it reduced the amount I could drop the saddle by about 20mm, which hampered descending - it was hard to switch between positions while riding tech trails (which is when you need it most) - the...

From Pinkbike:

Yeah, if I had more money and storage space, I'd get an XC/DC bike. The trail centre loops and local woods just aren't much fun on a 180mm ebike. I mostly ride bike parks and off-piste enduro tracks so my ebike is still suitable for most rides, but I'd like something smaller for tamer trails and...

I should perhaps clarify that my e13 wheels are on a bike with a CYC X1 Pro motor, which already has some lag to the pickup, so the issues I mentioned might not be so apparent if you have an Avinox, Bosch, etc. But there was noticeably more lag with these wheels, so it's not entirely down to the...

According to Chat GPT, there is only about 1 watt more friction in a regular hub like a DT Swiss DEG, so I'm not sure the lower-friction e13 makes a meaningful difference to rolling speed on the trail. Spinning the wheel on the stand could be misleading as there are no other forces involved...

I tried 142mm Amazon cheapos and I would have kept them if they didn't have a massive offset/q factor. They're great until the battery dies... Currently on 150 Eagle 90s.

It actually does still help a bit, because there is more horizontal distance between your trailing leg and the wide part of the saddle. I noticed this when swapping between 175 and 150 cranks.

I got these. They work pretty well; just make sure they don't rotate when you're setting the bars down.

I went back to a regular 35mm forward stem because I was getting too much tucking with 15mm reversed, and it felt twitchy/unstable, especially in ruts or on skinnies, where precise placement of the front wheel is important. (I ended up having a fairly spectacular OTB after tucking the front at...

I'm 5'8 on a good day and my inseam is 31.5. With a narrow saddle a 170-180 dropper is enough, and maybe a 150 would be usable. But narrow and/or low-stack saddles (including the SM Pro, which I have in my parts bin) are just too uncomfortable for long rides.