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I think so, there's no "how hard do you push it in" problem, it's basically an old-fashioned, straightforward measurement between the centres of the rollers. Deadly accurate on any bike chain (flattop chains have larger dia rollers). You can see exactly what it is you are measuring as the...

The very best way IMHO to measure chain wear without the need to remove the chain from the bike (new connector link) and equivalent to measuring with a rule, is this tool from Abbey Bike Tools LL Chain Wear Tool Very expensive (for what it is) BUT easy to use and deadly accurate on ALL chains...

Problem could be selling new bikes in the shop would look a bit sparse (less attractive) with small cassette and less gears

I've fitted this to my Amflow PL, makes a great lightweight, fast XC bike with powershifting when wired direct to bike, can still climb anything except silly steep/technical. Shorter derailleur, T-Type solid mount more tucked into bike, as long as you can keep above walking pace everything is...

Some good info in the other thread........... https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/electric-mini-pumps-do-you-use-them.47172/

I fitted the Gold Genuine Magura "Race" Pads 8.R and all my problems went away.

Got to be a lightweight and efficient MGU (integrated motor/gearbox) - that's the next big thing!

Please don't get confused by "Smoothshift" & "auto-shift", Smoothshift just detects the voltage spike from YOU shifting gear (wireless) and runs the chainring independently. So yes, just plug and play, power via the motor AUX/Lighting connection and enable "Smoothshift" in the bike top tube...

My go-to "good weather" trousers are the Endura MT500 Burners, designed with input from the "Athertons". Good, comfortable, stretchy slim fit, strong & light, with small vented sections and cordura knee inserts. Fend off Brambles (and ticks) reinforced seat and good zipped pockets. The only...

If you use a Heatmap overlay (or the strava one) you can see which trails are "no-go" as well as other "good" trails not shown on the map

@Plummet Would be interesting to see how you'd get on with SRAM Transmission

I'm a lightweight rider and most of my riding these days is fast XC, so ideal for that. As long as you maintain at least a fast walking pace 24T is OK for most climbs, would be a struggle on steep/technical climbs though.

For what it's worth, I have found the SDG Bel-Air 3.0 brilliant, in fact I never think about it because I have had no issues at all. I am a skinny lightweight though YMMV

I'm the opposite! I prefer to buy expensive chain and replace less often (and save wear on cassette). I've found Eagle X01 chain costs about twice GX chain but lasts twice as long, although in my experience they don't snap, just wear (elongate).

Small holes on the sidewall or bed of carbon rims (typically 2.5mm) are standard drainage holes used to release water that enters through valve or spoke holes during wet rides. They also act as pressure relief vents to prevent dangerous air pressure buildup within the rim cavity when using...

Same here, BUT...pretty sure it's now AI in the first instance, if you argue with it you'll get a human response......later

OP found that his steel Sram 38T fouled. Alloy Hope R22 38T fits and is suitable for Eagle & T-Type (with bigger rollers)

38T and 7-speed XX DH Cassette (+ derailleur) play ball with the software and Smoothshift

Hope (alloy) R22 38T fits OK

It's a well documented problem with pogo pins, especially with GX Transmission where water pools around the horizontal battery. Need to fix the pogo-pins and then next time battery is installed smear silicone grease around the outer edges so that it seals when clipped in. Don't get grease on the...