On the Facebook pool comments, one thing was apparent: people who had a problem with the latch had bikes size L with a 750Wh battery. I also have an L-size bike w/a 750Wh battery.
Does anybody else who is experiencing the same problem have different size/battery options?
I recently bought a Thule Epos, and I absolutely love it. I can take up to three bikes and have individual arms for each bike, so you can unload each bike individually.
It folds so does not take much space to store and there is a cool feature where the bike carrier can be used as a service stand...
I'm honestly not sure, it looks like it's just there to secure the cables in the downtube.
The cables are running from the motor, under the rail, up to the battery connector and the controller.
Now when I look at it, I'm not even sure if that is a Bosch rail or just a cable rail.
(The bike is...
UPDATE: It's actually a cable rail, not a Bosch mounting rail, that sits in the upper part of the downtube.
In the Strive:ON Canyon decided to put this rail on the upper side of the downtube, and it seems that the rail itself is not doing anything other than covering the cables.
I just received the latch with the Abus lock, and it doesn't seem to be much stronger than the stock Bosch latch.
The lock does not add any additional support, in my opinion.
I was hoping some part of the weight would be resting on the lock itself, as it's placed centrally in the mechanism...
Well, in this case, it was definitely not misaligned during installation. It was installed in the Canyon Service Center, and I checked the connector when I got the bike back. There were no cracks or any problems—a spotless installation. I've never removed the battery since, and I just rode it on...
I've already replaced the latch, and yes, it's a 20 EUR part, so not that bad.
The real issue here is that I really don't want to replace it every 200 kilometers.
Today I took a closer look at the bike and why the latch is failing, and it's actually clear that the whole weight of the battery is...
I’m having second round of problems now.
The bike 1st time was fixed in Canyon Service Center @ 347km mileage. Today the battery started disconnecting again @ 557kms on the clock.
I checked the battery latch and it’s cracked! It took it only 200kms to break 🤣
I have not removed the battery...
160mm cranks are great, in my case, that 5mm shorter crank made a huge difference when it comes to pedal strikes. I can imagine that a 155-mm crank must be perfect. After change, I don't feel like I'm making less power or something :)
Highly recommended upgrade :)
I just changed my cranks to 160mm, and I can't wait to test them out.
I hope I'll have at least half as good experience as @Winryn :D
Installed RaceFace Aeffect R's (on the picture, the left crank is already wrapped for protection)
Sure, this is the relevant mount; I have bought it, but never mounted it, as Canyon already replaced mine.
BOSCH Mounting Kit form POWERTUBE Battery Lock Side Horizontal #EB1290000F
It would be great if @Rob Rides EMTB could confirm the part number.
In my case, they clearly stated that the only thing they replaced was the battery latch.
Honestly, I'm not sure about it, but if this is true, the problem will definitely come back.
I already bought a replacement latch, but I know they've been hard to come by recently.
Given the battery weight...
The bike came back from Canyon Service Center today. I was told that the problem was a cracked battery latch (similar to what happened to @Rob Rides EMTB ). The latch has been replaced.
Canyon states that they only replaced the latch. Honestly, I'm not sure if they did anything more than that...
Hey @Rob Rides EMTB , did the replacement help?
I'm wondering why this battery latch actually cracked, and I'm wondering if that was not due to the fact that it actually holds the whole weight of a battery.
In my case, the upper connector is also loose and rattling.
As of now, my bike is...