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Motor/crank/battery unit that I can click off, then click-on an Amish crankset.

yes drilled 5mm tapped 6mm. But I unserstand some classes of people are afraid of that.

Still Ok, still as new. The mounting is a metal bracket with one bolt. At the back there is already a hole, in the front you will have to drill/tap a hole

the headlamp I use has a button on it, so I don't need the button of the brose HMI. For those who really want to use it, iirc I saw it on this forum, you can connect a 6V relay that switches the 36V.

The output of mine gave 6V limited to 1A. So I went for a direct connection tho the 36V, with a converter that also gives a powerful USB output.

Why not just take a look at the specs and read a bit ?

Well Bosch kind of did that to create the Purion 200 https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/products/purion I think this is what they should have made from the beginning.

Hey, There are 2 versions in the 750Wh smart. Vertical and Horizontal

Every time I ride it, I'm still impressed how good it is, even if it lacks a few options my Cube has.

The hacksaw approach is indeed the way to go. Thanks to the slight force approach I still have the undamaged original chainring, useless forever in a box.

You seem to be familiar with XX shore A measurements. Makes me think of Brinell, Hrc,... we used for iron. What are the values I should want for a tyre fast rolling on straight asphalt, and grip on sharp corners in mud ?

Totally Ok for me. At least it is clear, and I can understand most of the Mtb'ers don't like the behavour of half of the Emtb'ers

I say a short HEY to everybody. Bikers/ horseriders/ bbq'ers/ skateboarders/ motocrossers/ hikers/ ... Except Nordic Walkers. Because those are hypnotized indoctrinated extremist bigots.

Hmm, not sure I understand the technical differences behind "beginner friendly" and "more comfortable" But good you found something you and her likes.

First time I saw that black top tube part it made me think the guy did a serious crash breaking the frame, and did a quick repair/camouflage. A bit like we did with our rotten cars in the eighties and ninetees.

The 5 minutes to the shop is really a good thing. I have a Cube, but with so much possibilities and versions in both Cube and Trek, what was the difference that made you choose the Trek ? Apart from the battery coming out at the bottom vs sideways ?

So yesterday I changed back to the summer back tyre. The Pirelli "R" off, the "M" back on. The "S" stays at the front. This is the mileage now, one year after the purchase, the start of this tread.

Into mud/rain/sand/dust with the 12sp 10-51t, that's me. Every time I put a new chain, I also replace the 10t+12t cogs. Those cost 18 euro for the set, in the strange occasion of being widely available. Last time, I also changed the other separate gears, 14-16-18 cost 3 euro each. No need to...

I drilled the hole, cut a m6 tread, and mounted the mudguard. 2 years after, it is proven that there was no structurally weakening, the structurally weakening didn't affect the safety margin, or the structurally weakening was not relevant to the applied load.