That's really helpful, thank you! Same weight category here :). So you switched to the alloy version and it works better for you?
Did you notice any differences when riding? Do you feel it's a little stiffer or any other difference or is it just a little less of a hustle?
Thank you!
Hey there,
I'm about to buy a long shock kit for my S-Works S5 (fitment shouldn't be an issue on that size I suppose).
Cascade writes on their website that the new alloy version is also suitable for carbon frames and is supposed to be stiffer and therefore protects the frame better against...
I really wonder why these lights aren't more popular since they seem to be the only no separate battery option with a wide angle / multiple leds.
Import fees and shipping costs are insane unfortunately - it's the only thing holding me back right now. Almost no reviews on YouTube is a bummer...
Finally got to ride my 2022 Levo after being injured and building it up for months. Very disappointed to hear that sound on the first rides. I already got history with Levo Motors, since my 2020 frameset motor had to be replaced under warranty. I really had high hopes for that 2.2 motor - turns...
Short update on this topic: OneUp 210 on my S5 KSL isn't working unfortunately. Shimmed down to 190 it might propably work, but I decided to go with a BikeYoke Revive 185 instead. Sooooo smooth this thing... crazy. It's even better than my 170 AXS Reverb on the Levo. Actuationwise of course not...
True. Didn't count that. My fault.
110 over seat collar actually is around 100mm in his photo - with 210 one up this actually means 297 insertion length including the actuator - 100 = 197 inserted into an S3 frame. Wow. That's 47mm above geo chart.
Can anyone add more reallife measurements to...
Actually it has 252 max insertion.
210 = 282 insertion.
The measurement above was 110 over seat collar with 210 oneup and S3 frame.
Should actually be 132. So I guess actual max insertion is a bit more than what geo chart says.
Yes, 180'd be better for you. 60mm shorter total - so you put it in 35mm less than your current 210 OneUp and it'll be 1 inch shorter. You'll have more leverage overall to find the sweetspot for you ride height.
If anyone needs more insertion or lower post overall the OneUp 180 is the sweetspot imo. If you believe this source the 180 is actually 60mm shorter in total length while being obviously only 30mm shorter in dropper height.
If you take the measurements above on an S3 frame (420mm seattube) with...
300lbs including the bike? That's how I'm running a 650lbs spring (Rail 5 XL) and think it's pretty spot on.
It's another shock (Marzocchi Bomber CR) though.
Just a quick update. Software Update fixed it for my drive unit.
Feels a bit different though. When beating it on greenlights in turbo nothing happens for maybe half a second. Launching without knives between the teeth everything seems fine.
I'm still very happy not to wait for a new drive...
When did it get replaced? Did the try updating the software first?
My dealer which managed the first driveunit replacement is a bit far away unfortunately. If I only had to do a software update, I'd go to the dealer across the street (who unfortunately was not willing to help with the motor...
Hey guys,
my first Rail 5 2020 Motor has just been replaced in January and today I got a permanent 510 again!!
Similar situation, pulling my daughter in a child trailer had to stop for some seconds, when continuing my ride the error occurred and stayed.
No "warning 510" whatsoever...
You could get the Knock Block 2.0 - at least the cap. The range should be a lot better with it.
But why not completely ditch it?
On my other bikes I never felt the need to limit the steering range. When the fork doesn't hit the downtube, I don't see any need on the Rail either.
But that's exactly the part that is cut / filed off anyway. Don't see any weakening in the cap or headset though.
This is how I modified it:
The holes are for the Kiox Knock Block Mount.
I don't think you're weakening the system cutting or filing down the chip's tab. The Knock Block cap doesn't get touched at all which has direct connection to the headset.
It's an XL frame, yes.
Do you know if grinding the chip down will work? Of course I could replace the headset, but since it works perfectly fine and I'll need to put the chip back in anyway, I thought that might be an easy solution.