Brake hum/honk while light braking?

I've ruled out contamination completely now this morning, as it stands the rotor, pads, return spring and retaining pin have all been swapped front to rear and the noise has stayed at the front. Albeit it's quieter than yesterday since replacing the cracked top cap. I'll go get a better fitting top cap from my LBS this morning and see if that makes any difference at all.
 
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New Hope top cap and bolt fitted and after 10 mins testing on a quick ride the noise is now only present under very light braking which is much more managing than yesterday when it was honking like mad under light and medium braking, now medium braking is silent with the only change being a new top cap. I'll give it a more substantial ride later and report back again.
 
I've ruled out contamination completely now this morning, as it stands the rotor, pads, return spring and retaining pin have all been swapped front to rear and the noise has stayed at the front. Albeit it's quieter than yesterday since replacing the cracked top cap. I'll go get a better fitting top cap from my LBS this morning and see if that makes any difference at all.
The bike frame always acts as a conductor/ amplifier of any rattle or in your case sqeal but will mostly not be the cause. If you are convinced contamination is not the cause I would suspect a faulty master cylinder/ lever or calliper. Our brakes are a sealed system but nevertheless still needs to provide room for expansion of brake fluid which is achieved by the bladder in the lever. The bladder is in turn enabled to expand by an air vent above it ( usually a pin sized hole on the top of the lever). If that hole gets blocked the bladder cannot operate correctly. Maybe try another lever if that is possible.
 
Agreed, just did 5k to test and the noise is essentially gone, it only happens if I make a conscious effort to brake very lightly in order to cause it, like literally almost zero pressure on the lever and doesn't happen under any normal riding, fast or slow. Which I'd say is almost normal behaviour. I'm meeting a mate tomorrow for a ride who has basically the exact same bike (his is a 2022 model and mines a 2023), same frame, forks, levers and calipers (he has a different headset, pads and rotors) so I'll see what his does under the same extremely light pressure.

For now, very happy as I don't see this as an issue. Also, good excuse to add some bling though. Yes that's a Hope aluminium bolt so I used a stainless steel bolt to toque the top cap down, torqued the stem bolts and then replaced the aluminium bolt:

PXL_20260711_123053409.webp
 
Yep that's what I'll do, not ideal as I have a Magura speed sensor magnet in the rear rotor and the way it fits is a bit janky, it relies on a washer kind of digging itself into the aluminium housing of the magnet to hold it on so there's only a certain amount of times that it'll actually be able to be removed and refitted again. But you're right, it's absolutely the thing I need to do to see if the noise migrates to the rear.

The bike shop where I got the rotor from weren't interested which I was surprised about because when they were a smaller business they have been extremely helpful in the past. They said it's very unlikely the rotor is warped, and that probably 1 in 1000 Magura Rotors arrive with warps (buts it's definitely warped I can see it) and said that people are quick to blame noise on warped rotors. Ultimately they unofficially pointed me towards googling Magura brake noise because there were fixes online that they couldn't officially recommend. I know exactly what they were hinting at because I've had many Magura brakes in the past and used to put gaffer tape on the backs of the pads.

But again, my brakes are Deore with Galfer pads and Magura rotors so that's not the issue. Plus of course the rear is silent (and the rear rotor is running true) and the front was silent with my old Shimano rotors and pads so there's nothing else loose at the front of the bike. The only things that have changed are the pads and rotors, and the one that's warped is making the noise under light braking but silent under heavy braking so logic tells me the warp is vibrating the pads under light braking. Very annoyed because the rotor was £50 and it's clearly warped.

I'll swap the rotors over in the next few days and I'm fairly confident the noise will either move to the rear of the bike or both brakes will be quiet as potentially the rear of the bike is stiffer so will be absorb the vibration better than the front does.
Might want to gave a piece of window glass to lay the rotor on… typically the glass is most level, smooth surface which will make it any warp very clear any easy to spot… kind of eliminate any BS excuse from that shop.
 
Definitely not contaminated, caliper seems pretty straight, hard to tell when eying it up against a warped rotor, but I'd did try to realign it initially but it made zero difference to the noise.
Eyeing it up doesn't necessarily work. Do this:

1. Loosen the caliper bolts

2. Spin the wheel by hand

3. Apply the brake to stop the wheel rotating.

4. Tighten the caliper bolts while keeping the brake applied

5. Release brake lever.

6. Spin wheel again and test if wheel rotates freely.

6. If not, repeat from 1. above.
 
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