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High rise bar and upgrade to 170 mm fork on a Megamo Reason

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It´s me again, my megamo reason came with a flat handlebar and a 160 mm Fox AWL fork. I want to change the handlebar to a 55 mm rise carbon bar and a 170 mm Fox 38 fork.
my question is, with this changes what should I expect regarding climbing and can you help me calculate by how much would the suspension change increase my BB height
 
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It´s me again, my megamo reason came with a flat handlebar and a 160 mm Fox AWL fork. I want to change the handlebar to a 55 mm rise carbon bar and a 170 mm Fox 38 fork. my question is, with this changes what should I expect regarding climbing and can you help me calculate by how much would the susp...
@Emilio-Megamo Reason Right, physics not vibes - let's do this properly. The fork swap (BB height)

Your stock fork (Fox 36 Float AWL HD, 160mm) has a verified axle-to-crown of 571mm on the 29" version. A Fox 38 at 170mm travel sits at 583.7mm A2C. That's a Δ of ~12.7mm longer, not the 10mm you'd assume from travel alone - the 38's crown is physically taller than the 36's.

That extra length runs along the steerer axis, which sits at your head angle (63.5° from horizontal on the Reason). So the front end doesn't rise by the full 12.7mm - it rises by:

Δfront ≈ ΔA2C × sin(HA) = 12.7 × sin(63.5°) ≈ 11.4mm Then, because the rear wheel stays planted, the whole frame rotates about the rear contact patch rather than the front rising in isolation. BB rise is that front rise scaled by where the BB sits along the wheelbase:

ΔBB ≈ Δfront × (chainstay / wheelbase) On the M frame (chainstay 454mm), using the verified geometry, that ratio is roughly 0.35 - 0.37 depending on exact wheelbase for your size - so:

ΔBB ≈ 4mm rise (ballpark - tell me S/M/L and I'll tighten it up, since wheelbase is size-specific and I don't want to fudge it)

Head angle will also slacken, by roughly 0.4 - 0.5°, for the same geometric reason. Climbing - what actually changes

The BB/HA shift from the fork is small enough on its own to be background noise. The bigger climbing effect is your 55mm rise bar - that doesn't touch BB height at all (it's a cockpit change, not a suspension one), but it moves your hands up and back, which shifts your weight rearward. Combined with the slacker head angle putting the front wheel further out, expect:

• Steep techy climbs: front wheel gets light/wanders more easily - you'll need to consciously weight it, more than you do now • Smooth fire-road climbing: negligible difference, arguably more comfortable seated

• Standing/technical low-speed balance: very slightly less precise front-end feel None of this is a reason not to do it - it's just what you're trading for a burlier, more travel-forward front end. If you're mostly riding techy enduro terrain rather than long fire-road grinds, that trade is usually worth it.

 
@Emilio-Megamo Reason Right, physics not vibes - let's do this properly. The fork swap (BB height)

Your stock fork (Fox 36 Float AWL HD, 160mm) has a verified axle-to-crown of 571mm on the 29" version. A Fox 38 at 170mm travel sits at 583.7mm A2C. That's a Δ of ~12.7mm longer, not the 10mm you'd assume from travel alone - the 38's crown is physically taller than the 36's.

That extra length runs along the steerer axis, which sits at your head angle (63.5° from horizontal on the Reason). So the front end doesn't rise by the full 12.7mm - it rises by:

Δfront ≈ ΔA2C × sin(HA) = 12.7 × sin(63.5°) ≈ 11.4mm Then, because the rear wheel stays planted, the whole frame rotates about the rear contact patch rather than the front rising in isolation. BB rise is that front rise scaled by where the BB sits along the wheelbase:

ΔBB ≈ Δfront × (chainstay / wheelbase) On the M frame (chainstay 454mm), using the verified geometry, that ratio is roughly 0.35 - 0.37 depending on exact wheelbase for your size - so:

ΔBB ≈ 4mm rise (ballpark - tell me S/M/L and I'll tighten it up, since wheelbase is size-specific and I don't want to fudge it)

Head angle will also slacken, by roughly 0.4 - 0.5°, for the same geometric reason. Climbing - what actually changes

The BB/HA shift from the fork is small enough on its own to be background noise. The bigger climbing effect is your 55mm rise bar - that doesn't touch BB height at all (it's a cockpit change, not a suspension one), but it moves your hands up and back, which shifts your weight rearward. Combined with the slacker head angle putting the front wheel further out, expect:

• Steep techy climbs: front wheel gets light/wanders more easily - you'll need to consciously weight it, more than you do now • Smooth fire-road climbing: negligible difference, arguably more comfortable seated

• Standing/technical low-speed balance: very slightly less precise front-end feel None of this is a reason not to do it - it's just what you're trading for a burlier, more travel-forward front end. If you're mostly riding techy enduro terrain rather than long fire-road grinds, that trade is usually worth it.

its a size medium frame
 
its a size medium frame
@Emilio-Megamo Reason Good - that confirms the number I used rather than changes it. Medium chainstay on the Reason is verified at 454mm, so the calc holds as a proper answer rather than a ballpark:

BB rise: ~4mmHead angle: slackens ~0.4-0.5° (from 63.5° stock)

Nothing shifts because the chainstay was the only size-specific input that mattered for that front-rise-to-BB-rise scaling - and it's exactly what I assumed. So you're looking at roughly a 63.0-63.1° head angle and a BB that sits about 4mm higher once the Fox 38 goes in, before you've even touched sag.

Practically: that's a small enough change that you won't need to chase it with a lower flip-chip setting unless you're already running LOW and want to claw some of that height back for pedal clearance. If you do want the flip-chip figure for the Reason (roughly 0.2° on the angles, ~3mm BB height per your frame's own adjustment range), that's in the same ballpark as what the fork swap is doing anyway - so LOW + the 170mm fork would land you close to where you started geometry-wise, just with more travel and a burlier chassis up front. Worth knowing if the front-end-light climbing feel bugs you more than expected.

 
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