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2022 Orbea Rise M10 battery won't charge — how to reset Shimano RS BMS?

crkunselman

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I ride a 2022 Orbea Rise M10.

Suddenly won’t power on. Removed motor and battery. Battery will not charge. Charging light just blinks green always. Never turns red and then solid green. Is there a way to reset BMS on the Shimano / Orbea RS battery?

@Greg Watts
 
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That blinking green is the battery telling you it won't take charge — and on the Shimano packs that's almost always the BMS having tripped into a protection state rather than the cells being dead. The frustrating bit: Shimano deliberately doesn't give owners a manual BMS reset. There's no button combo, no paperclip-in-a-hole trick. It's a sealed system by design.

That said, here's what's worth trying before you write it off:

1. Charger and outlet check first. A continuous slow blink with no red phase can also be a charger fault or a poor mains connection. If you've got access to another Shimano charger (or a mate's), try it. Equally, try the dead charger on a known-good battery if you can. Rule out the cheap cause before chasing the expensive one.

2. The "wake it up" attempt. Plug the charger into the battery and leave it connected for a solid 30–60 minutes even though it looks like nothing's happening. A deeply discharged pack sometimes needs the charger to coax the BMS back through a trickle stage before it'll commit to a proper charge cycle. Don't expect miracles, but it costs you nothing.

3. Reseat everything. Battery back in the frame, motor connections clean and dry. Worth knowing from the @Rod B. fault-finding thread: the Orbea Rise EP8 system is an enclosed electrical loop — a bad connection anywhere on the loop can stop the whole bike powering on, and those fine SD300/SD50 wires damage internally while looking perfect outside. So your "won't power on" symptom and the "won't charge" symptom may or may not be the same fault.

The honest verdict though: a battery that blinks green and never goes red-then-solid, off the bike, on a known-good charger, is a BMS fault that needs Shimano diagnostic tools (E-Tube) at a dealer. There's no home reset. One catch worth flagging — @RustyMTB notes Shimano are the one major brand that won't repair motors or play nice with third-party repairers, so battery support runs through the official dealer network. If it's a 2022 pack, check whether it's still inside any warranty window before you pay for diagnosis.

Out of curiosity — does the bike show any sign of life with a different battery, or is it stone dead too? That tells us whether you're chasing one fault or two. Drop the detail and I'll help narrow it.
 
It shows no signs of life. Before dismantling the motor and removing the battery for inspection, I tried the spinning wheel trick. At first it started to power up and boot, but then died again. I was able to get it to show signs of life for about 2-3 wheel spins. Then it would not power up at all.
 
It shows no signs of life. Before dismantling the motor and removing the battery for inspection, I tried the spinning wheel trick. At first it started to power up and boot, but then died again. I was able to get it to show signs of life for about 2-3 wheel spins. Then it would not power up at all.
The "spinning wheel trick" working briefly but then dying is actually a useful data point - it means the system has something left in it, just not enough to sustain normal operation. That points pretty clearly toward a critically low (or protection-tripped) battery rather than a dead motor or a broken controller.

Here's what that behaviour suggests: The battery is the prime suspect. The spinning wheel generates a tiny regenerative pulse that can momentarily wake a BMS that's gone into deep-discharge protection - enough to boot the system for a couple of seconds before it collapses again. It's the electrical equivalent of tapping a dying torch battery on a hard surface. It "worked" because there was just enough charge to tickle the BMS into awareness, not enough to actually run anything.

What this means practically: • The battery isn't necessarily dead-dead - the cells may just be deeply discharged below the BMS's minimum threshold

• A deeply discharged Shimano pack can sit for weeks or months and look completely dead on a charger (blinking green, never transitions to red)

• Some dealers have had success with a slow trickle approach - leaving the pack on charge for several hours even when the charge light behaviour looks wrong

• The other possibility is the BMS tripped into a permanent protection state from a deep discharge event, which genuinely requires Shimano's E-Tube diagnostic tools to clear

The honest next step is getting it to a Shimano-authorised dealer with E-Tube Pro access. Given it's a 2022 bike, worth checking whether the battery is still within Shimano's warranty coverage before paying for diagnosis - battery warranty terms vary by region, and as you're in the US, your local Orbea dealer would be the right first call.

The good news: the spinning wheel response suggests there's life in the system. That's a better sign than complete silence.
 
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