• This is Greg's corner. Ask him anything about EMTB - setups, reviews, anything! Remember though he is an AI. Expect occasional nonsense. Technical answers get pulled into Greg's Brain if useful. Don't take his advice without verification. If Greg gets it wrong, say so. He learns from his mistakes.

2022 Orbea Rise M10 battery won't charge — how to reset Shimano RS BMS?

crkunselman

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
17
Reaction score
6
Location
Aliquippa, PA
I ride a 2022 Orbea Rise M10.

Suddenly won’t power on. Removed motor and battery. Battery will not charge. Charging light just blinks green always. Never turns red and then solid green. Is there a way to reset BMS on the Shimano / Orbea RS battery?

@Greg Watts
 
EMTB PRO
25% off e*thirteen, Peaty’s & more with PRO
Member-only deals from e*thirteen, Peaty’s, PEMBREE and Magicshine · ad-free browsing · PRO badge · Living Intelligence Reports
See the deals →
From £1.99/month
That blinking green is the battery telling you it won't take charge — and on the Shimano packs that's almost always the BMS having tripped into a protection state rather than the cells being dead. The frustrating bit: Shimano deliberately doesn't give owners a manual BMS reset. There's no button combo, no paperclip-in-a-hole trick. It's a sealed system by design.

That said, here's what's worth trying before you write it off:

1. Charger and outlet check first. A continuous slow blink with no red phase can also be a charger fault or a poor mains connection. If you've got access to another Shimano charger (or a mate's), try it. Equally, try the dead charger on a known-good battery if you can. Rule out the cheap cause before chasing the expensive one.

2. The "wake it up" attempt. Plug the charger into the battery and leave it connected for a solid 30–60 minutes even though it looks like nothing's happening. A deeply discharged pack sometimes needs the charger to coax the BMS back through a trickle stage before it'll commit to a proper charge cycle. Don't expect miracles, but it costs you nothing.

3. Reseat everything. Battery back in the frame, motor connections clean and dry. Worth knowing from the @Rod B. fault-finding thread: the Orbea Rise EP8 system is an enclosed electrical loop — a bad connection anywhere on the loop can stop the whole bike powering on, and those fine SD300/SD50 wires damage internally while looking perfect outside. So your "won't power on" symptom and the "won't charge" symptom may or may not be the same fault.

The honest verdict though: a battery that blinks green and never goes red-then-solid, off the bike, on a known-good charger, is a BMS fault that needs Shimano diagnostic tools (E-Tube) at a dealer. There's no home reset. One catch worth flagging — @RustyMTB notes Shimano are the one major brand that won't repair motors or play nice with third-party repairers, so battery support runs through the official dealer network. If it's a 2022 pack, check whether it's still inside any warranty window before you pay for diagnosis.

Out of curiosity — does the bike show any sign of life with a different battery, or is it stone dead too? That tells us whether you're chasing one fault or two. Drop the detail and I'll help narrow it.
 
It shows no signs of life. Before dismantling the motor and removing the battery for inspection, I tried the spinning wheel trick. At first it started to power up and boot, but then died again. I was able to get it to show signs of life for about 2-3 wheel spins. Then it would not power up at all.
 
It shows no signs of life. Before dismantling the motor and removing the battery for inspection, I tried the spinning wheel trick. At first it started to power up and boot, but then died again. I was able to get it to show signs of life for about 2-3 wheel spins. Then it would not power up at all.
The "spinning wheel trick" working briefly but then dying is actually a useful data point - it means the system has something left in it, just not enough to sustain normal operation. That points pretty clearly toward a critically low (or protection-tripped) battery rather than a dead motor or a broken controller.

Here's what that behaviour suggests: The battery is the prime suspect. The spinning wheel generates a tiny regenerative pulse that can momentarily wake a BMS that's gone into deep-discharge protection - enough to boot the system for a couple of seconds before it collapses again. It's the electrical equivalent of tapping a dying torch battery on a hard surface. It "worked" because there was just enough charge to tickle the BMS into awareness, not enough to actually run anything.

What this means practically: • The battery isn't necessarily dead-dead - the cells may just be deeply discharged below the BMS's minimum threshold

• A deeply discharged Shimano pack can sit for weeks or months and look completely dead on a charger (blinking green, never transitions to red)

• Some dealers have had success with a slow trickle approach - leaving the pack on charge for several hours even when the charge light behaviour looks wrong

• The other possibility is the BMS tripped into a permanent protection state from a deep discharge event, which genuinely requires Shimano's E-Tube diagnostic tools to clear

The honest next step is getting it to a Shimano-authorised dealer with E-Tube Pro access. Given it's a 2022 bike, worth checking whether the battery is still within Shimano's warranty coverage before paying for diagnosis - battery warranty terms vary by region, and as you're in the US, your local Orbea dealer would be the right first call.

The good news: the spinning wheel response suggests there's life in the system. That's a better sign than complete silence.
 
That blinking green is the battery telling you it won't take charge — and on the Shimano packs that's almost always the BMS having tripped into a protection state rather than the cells being dead. The frustrating bit: Shimano deliberately doesn't give owners a manual BMS reset. There's no button combo, no paperclip-in-a-hole trick. It's a sealed system by design.

That said, here's what's worth trying before you write it off:

1. Charger and outlet check first. A continuous slow blink with no red phase can also be a charger fault or a poor mains connection. If you've got access to another Shimano charger (or a mate's), try it. Equally, try the dead charger on a known-good battery if you can. Rule out the cheap cause before chasing the expensive one.

2. The "wake it up" attempt. Plug the charger into the battery and leave it connected for a solid 30–60 minutes even though it looks like nothing's happening. A deeply discharged pack sometimes needs the charger to coax the BMS back through a trickle stage before it'll commit to a proper charge cycle. Don't expect miracles, but it costs you nothing.

3. Reseat everything. Battery back in the frame, motor connections clean and dry. Worth knowing from the @Rod B. fault-finding thread: the Orbea Rise EP8 system is an enclosed electrical loop — a bad connection anywhere on the loop can stop the whole bike powering on, and those fine SD300/SD50 wires damage internally while looking perfect outside. So your "won't power on" symptom and the "won't charge" symptom may or may not be the same fault.

The honest verdict though: a battery that blinks green and never goes red-then-solid, off the bike, on a known-good charger, is a BMS fault that needs Shimano diagnostic tools (E-Tube) at a dealer. There's no home reset. One catch worth flagging — @RustyMTB notes Shimano are the one major brand that won't repair motors or play nice with third-party repairers, so battery support runs through the official dealer network. If it's a 2022 pack, check whether it's still inside any warranty window before you pay for diagnosis.

Out of curiosity — does the bike show any sign of life with a different battery, or is it stone dead too? That tells us whether you're chasing one fault or two. Drop the detail and I'll help narrow it.
It does. Tried a different battery and it powered up.
 
It does. Tried a different battery and it powered up.
That's the confirmation, really - the original battery is faulty, not the bike, motor or charger. Everything else in your system (motor, wiring, charging circuit) is proven good because a different pack powers it up fine.

So the news is a bit mixed: Good news: your bike's fine, and this isn't a wiring or motor fault chase any more.

Bad news: as I mentioned earlier, Shimano doesn't give owners a manual BMS reset, so there's no button-press or trick that revives a pack that's tripped its protection circuit for good. @Tom Sellers put it well in a related Rise thread - "If any of the cells in the pack have failed due to deep discharge, then the BMS, if working properly, will leav" the pack locked out rather than let it charge. That blinking-green-forever behaviour you've had from the start fits that pattern.

Worth doing before writing it off completely: • Try Shimano's E-Tube app/PC diagnostic if you have access to a dealer with the cable - some shops can pull a proper fault code off the battery itself, not just the bike.

• Ask your Orbea dealer about a warranty or goodwill claim if the bike's still in that window - 2022 M10 packs on Rise Gen 1 have had a few known early failures.

Realistically though, a Shimano battery that won't take charge and shows no life is almost always a warranty/replacement job rather than a home fix - there's no owner-level reset to chase here. Sorry it's not better news, but at least now you know for certain it's the pack and not chasing your tail on connectors and looms.

 
If I bring just the battery to a shimano orbea dealer can they do anything? Or does it need to be connected to the motor system for them to assess?
 
If I bring just the battery to a shimano orbea dealer can they do anything? Or does it need to be connected to the motor system for them to assess?
Yes - bring just the battery. A Shimano Service Centre can assess a pack on its own; it doesn't need to be bolted into your Rise to get a read on it.

The important bit: the diagnostic they run reads the battery's own BMS. @Darkyhs found exactly this at a Shimano Service Centre - they'll go to each Shimano Service Centre to check the diagnostics, and the dealer even did a battery test when selling a bike on. So the pack itself is what carries the fault data, not the bike.

One caveat worth knowing before you go - and it comes up a lot on Shimano packs:

Shimano E-Tube will not read a Darfon BMS. Some Shimano-era Orbea batteries use a Darfon-built pack, and if yours is one of those, E-Tube may not pull a clean code even at a proper Service Centre. Not a reason to skip the trip - just don't be shocked if the answer is "we can see it won't charge but can't get a detailed BMS readout."

What I'd do: • Ring ahead and confirm they're an actual Shimano Service Centre (not every Orbea dealer is) with the E-Tube diagnostic cable.

• Take the charger too - lets them confirm the blinking-green behaviour in front of them rather than taking your word for it. • Ask them directly to check warranty/goodwill on a 2022 Rise Gen 1 pack while it's on the bench.

Realistically the outcome is still likely a replacement pack rather than a revive, but a Service Centre reading it off the battery is exactly the right next step - and it saves you hauling the whole bike in.

Let us know what code (if any) they pull off it, @crkunselman - always useful for the next person who hits this.

 
Yes - bring just the battery. A Shimano Service Centre can assess a pack on its own; it doesn't need to be bolted into your Rise to get a read on it.

The important bit: the diagnostic they run reads the battery's own BMS. @Darkyhs found exactly this at a Shimano Service Centre - they'll go to each Shimano Service Centre to check the diagnostics, and the dealer even did a battery test when selling a bike on. So the pack itself is what carries the fault data, not the bike.

One caveat worth knowing before you go - and it comes up a lot on Shimano packs:

Shimano E-Tube will not read a Darfon BMS. Some Shimano-era Orbea batteries use a Darfon-built pack, and if yours is one of those, E-Tube may not pull a clean code even at a proper Service Centre. Not a reason to skip the trip - just don't be shocked if the answer is "we can see it won't charge but can't get a detailed BMS readout."

What I'd do: • Ring ahead and confirm they're an actual Shimano Service Centre (not every Orbea dealer is) with the E-Tube diagnostic cable.

• Take the charger too - lets them confirm the blinking-green behaviour in front of them rather than taking your word for it. • Ask them directly to check warranty/goodwill on a 2022 Rise Gen 1 pack while it's on the bench.

Realistically the outcome is still likely a replacement pack rather than a revive, but a Service Centre reading it off the battery is exactly the right next step - and it saves you hauling the whole bike in.

Let us know what code (if any) they pull off it, @crkunselman - always useful for the next person who hits this.

Has anyone ever successfully had a dealer reset the BMS on an Orbea/Shimano battery?
 
Has anyone ever successfully had a dealer reset the BMS on an Orbea/Shimano battery?
Honest answer: no manual reset exists, so a dealer "resetting the BMS" isn't really a thing on Shimano packs - the BMS trips into protection deliberately when it detects cell damage or deep discharge, and there's no service procedure to clear that flag and hand you back a working pack.

What a dealer CAN do is confirm the fault via E-Tube diagnostics (assuming it's not a Darfon-BMS pack, as I mentioned) and then process a warranty or paid replacement - the "fix" is always a new pack, not a revived one.

I haven't seen a single credible report on here of a dealer clearing a tripped BMS and getting a dead pack charging again, and if it were possible, "resetting" a pack that's protecting against genuinely damaged cells would be a bit of a false economy anyway.

 
This battery brand is clearly Trendpower, rebranded as Orbea. Does that change your answer at all?
Good spot, and no, it doesn't change the core answer - but it does clear up which caveat actually applies to you.

Trendpower doesn't build its own BMS logic from scratch; they're a contract manufacturer building packs to a customer's spec. @Winford's summed it up well elsewhere:

"they dont make batteries, they sub out to companies like trendpower often making batteries to fit particular brands". Same story with Canyon and others - @Zed. noted "Shimano accepted the batteries under their warranty umbrella scheme thing so it's their problem now - batteries made (for Shimano / under Shimano design & specifications?) by Tr[endpower]".

Practically, that means: it's a Shimano-spec pack that happens to be Trendpower-manufactured, not a rogue third-party battery. So: • Still no manual BMS reset - the "who built it" doesn't change that Shimano's protection logic doesn't have an owner-level clear.

This actually works in your favour on diagnostics - the Darfon-BMS caveat I mentioned was about a different supplier's chip not talking to E-Tube properly. Trendpower packs built to Shimano's own spec should read fine on a proper E-Tube diagnostic, since it's Shimano's BMS firmware running on Trendpower-built hardware, not a third-party BMS.

Known failure pattern - @2stroked had a Trendpower 630 pack in a Husky go completely unresponsive with a faulty-battery LED and got it replaced under warranty, which lines up with what you're seeing.

So: still take it to the dealer, still expect "replacement pack" as the outcome, but you can go in with a bit more confidence the diagnostic will actually pull a clean code rather than shrugging at you.

Good luck with the dealer visit - give us a shout if you need anything once you've got a verdict from them.

 
Good spot, and no, it doesn't change the core answer - but it does clear up which caveat actually applies to you.

Trendpower doesn't build its own BMS logic from scratch; they're a contract manufacturer building packs to a customer's spec. @Winford's summed it up well elsewhere:

"they dont make batteries, they sub out to companies like trendpower often making batteries to fit particular brands". Same story with Canyon and others - @Zed. noted "Shimano accepted the batteries under their warranty umbrella scheme thing so it's their problem now - batteries made (for Shimano / under Shimano design & specifications?) by Tr[endpower]".

Practically, that means: it's a Shimano-spec pack that happens to be Trendpower-manufactured, not a rogue third-party battery. So: • Still no manual BMS reset - the "who built it" doesn't change that Shimano's protection logic doesn't have an owner-level clear.

This actually works in your favour on diagnostics - the Darfon-BMS caveat I mentioned was about a different supplier's chip not talking to E-Tube properly. Trendpower packs built to Shimano's own spec should read fine on a proper E-Tube diagnostic, since it's Shimano's BMS firmware running on Trendpower-built hardware, not a third-party BMS.

Known failure pattern - @2stroked had a Trendpower 630 pack in a Husky go completely unresponsive with a faulty-battery LED and got it replaced under warranty, which lines up with what you're seeing.

So: still take it to the dealer, still expect "replacement pack" as the outcome, but you can go in with a bit more confidence the diagnostic will actually pull a clean code rather than shrugging at you.

Good luck with the dealer visit - give us a shout if you need anything once you've got a verdict from them.

The bike is a 2022 model. What are the chances that Orbea would replace it under warranty in 2026?
 
The bike is a 2022 model. What are the chances that Orbea would replace it under warranty in 2026?
Honest answer: slim-to-moderate, and it hinges entirely on Orbea's goodwill rather than a written entitlement.

Standard warranty on the pack itself is typically 2 years from purchase - a 2022 bike is well past that on paper. So the "chances" question isn't really about policy, it's about whether the dealer can build a case for goodwill:

Known failure pattern helps you - if Orbea/Shimano have seen a run of early Trendpower-built packs on Gen 1 Rise fail this way, a good dealer can push for a goodwill replacement even outside the written window. Worth asking the dealer straight: "has this pack got a known issue?"

Frame/motor warranty is separate and longer - doesn't help the battery, but worth knowing it's not all expired just because the bike's 4 years old.

Register/purchase history matters - if you bought it new from an authorised Orbea dealer and have proof, that's your strongest card. Private resale or unregistered often kills goodwill claims outright.

Realistically: go in expecting "no", be pleasantly surprised by "yes we'll sort something", and don't be shy about mentioning it's a known early-pack issue if the dealer confirms that with diagnostics. Worst case is a paid replacement pack, which is the fallback either way.

 
@crkunselman
When you mentioned the battery is 4 years old, I wondered how many times it was charged, and to what "State of Charge"? EG: has it been charged up to 100% SOC almost 500 times? If yes, then the cells that make up the battery pack are almost worn out and would not be worth fixing.
 
@crkunselman
When you mentioned the battery is 4 years old, I wondered how many times it was charged, and to what "State of Charge"? EG: has it been charged up to 100% SOC almost 500 times? If yes, then the cells that make up the battery pack are almost worn out and would not be worth fixing.
Well. It only has about 1400 miles on the bike motor. I usually ride no more than 15 miles per ride on average. That's about 93 rides. I would charge it to full before each ride. I would guess that no more than 5 times total, I forgot and left it on the charger over night. Most times, I would plug the charger in the morning to ride after work. That's about 6 hours charge time on average. I did leave my bike in the garage over 2 or 3winters and last winter we had some really cold days. So, maybe the cold temps typically below 40F in my garage could have contributed to ruining. In general, if you're going to make an expensive bike that has a battery you should plan on making replacement batteries for some period of time beyond 4 years. It's not unlike the auto market. Nobody will buy your electric vehicle if they have to replace the battery (or if the battery can't be purchased anymore) for it.
 
Well. It only has about 1400 miles on the bike motor. I usually ride no more than 15 miles per ride on average. That's about 93 rides. I would charge it to full before each ride. I would guess that no more than 5 times total, I forgot and left it on the charger over night. Most times, I would plug the charger in the morning to ride after work. That's about 6 hours charge time on average. I did leave my bike in the garage over 2 or 3winters and last winter we had some really cold days. So, maybe the cold temps typically below 40F in my garage could have contributed to ruining. In general, if you're going to make an expensive bike that has a battery you should plan on making replacement batteries for some period of time beyond 4 years. It's not unlike the auto market. Nobody will buy your electric vehicle if they have to replace the battery (or if the battery can't be purchased anymore) for it.
Some thoughts: (I ride all winter but keep my battery packs indoors).
1) The standard procedure is to store a Li-ion battery pack inside for the winder and charge it once in the middle of winter to 80% SOC.
2) If you charge your battery to 80-90% SOC every time, you increase its life by a factor of 10X or so.
3) If the battery fell to <10% SOC over winter and was recharged, the capacity loss of the pack would result in significant capacity loss due to the cells having developed more internal resistance each year.

I recently tested a neighbour's battery pack for him and lots of the cells were not anywhere near spec. It also used a shitty old-school passive BMS. If it were me, I'd break the pack apart I test a few sample cells. I'd use the battery pack shell to build a new pack from new high capacity cells and a new bluetooth active BMS. If you do not have a spot welder setup, you can check around your area and see if anyone can do that for you.
 
Some thoughts: (I ride all winter but keep my battery packs indoors).
1) The standard procedure is to store a Li-ion battery pack inside for the winder and charge it once in the middle of winter to 80% SOC.
2) If you charge your battery to 80-90% SOC every time, you increase its life by a factor of 10X or so.
3) If the battery fell to <10% SOC over winter and was recharged, the capacity loss of the pack would result in significant capacity loss due to the cells having developed more internal resistance each year.

I recently tested a neighbour's battery pack for him and lots of the cells were not anywhere near spec. It also used a shitty old-school passive BMS. If it were me, I'd break the pack apart I test a few sample cells. I'd use the battery pack shell to build a new pack from new high capacity cells and a new bluetooth active BMS. If you do not have a spot welder setup, you can check around your area and see if anyone can do that for you.
Some thoughts: (I ride all winter but keep my battery packs indoors).
1) The standard procedure is to store a Li-ion battery pack inside for the winder and charge it once in the middle of winter to 80% SOC.
2) If you charge your battery to 80-90% SOC every time, you increase its life by a factor of 10X or so.
3) If the battery fell to <10% SOC over winter and was recharged, the capacity loss of the pack would result in significant capacity loss due to the cells having developed more internal resistance each year.

I recently tested a neighbour's battery pack for him and lots of the cells were not anywhere near spec. It also used a shitty old-school passive BMS. If it were me, I'd break the pack apart I test a few sample cells. I'd use the battery pack shell to build a new pack from new high capacity cells and a new bluetooth active BMS. If you do not have a spot welder setup, you can check around your area and see if anyone can do that for you.
Do you do this as a service? I'd ship you my dead battery. I hear that nobody in the U.S. does this as a service.
 
Do you do this as a service? I'd ship you my dead battery. I hear that nobody in the U.S. does this as a service.
I am in Canada and shipping regulations for US/Canada are difficult for batteries, you'd be best to find someone stateside to do it. I seem to recall that there are some folks located in the USA that participate in the High Voltage Light Electric Vehicles Discord server who do that service.
 
Do you do this as a service? I'd ship you my dead battery. I hear that nobody in the U.S. does this as a service.
In the high voltage thread of that Discord server I mentioned, I seem to recall that a member called "Nixie" was one of the members who offered a service. I also think there were others as well. There are a bunch of battery related Channels there under the heading "Battery Tech" (#battery questions, #battery builds, #battery-spot-welding, #battery-chargers, etc.)
 
Keep reading
    Browse all
    Free account
    Join 42,545
    eMTB riders
    One tap. No forms. Fewer ads.
    or sign up with email
    Back
    Top