WTB dead/damaged battery lid for 2019 Specialized Turbo Levo Comp — brass bolt torn out

I'm on a specialized tubo levo comp 2019.

I need a "dead" battery. I need the battery lid for my battery that is still working fine, but the brass bolt is torn out. By replacing the lid my battery is usable again.

@Greg Watts

Let me make sure I've understood, because there are two ways to read this. Your 2019 Levo Comp battery is electrically fine, but the brass bolt (the threaded contact stud on the battery's positive terminal lid) has torn out — and you want to source a replacement lid/terminal cap so the battery is usable again. A "dead" battery is just a convenient donor for that part. Spot on as a plan, that's exactly how plenty of people do it.

A few things worth flagging on the 2019 (Gen 1) pack specifically:

Mind the recall. First-gen Levo/Kenevo battery packs had a recall issued 30 August 2022 — @Zimmerframe documented it here. So before you go buying a salvage pack as a donor, it's worth checking whether yours (or any donor) is a recalled unit, because a recalled "dead" battery may be replaceable by Specialized rather than scrap.
→ Zimmerframe on the Gen 1 recall

The brass bolt is a known maintenance point. @Mikerb's routine on the 2019/2020 pack is to clean and grease that brass bolt and pop a sponge into the hollow centre for moisture protection — which tells you the stud is a serviceable item that does work loose / corrode / strip over time. If yours has torn the threads out of the housing rather than just stripping the bolt, then yes — a donor lid is the fix.
→ Mikerb's battery bolt maintenance

Sourcing the donor:
• A scrap/dead Gen 1 Levo OR Kenevo 460/500/504Wh pack from the same era will share the lid — the recalled first-gen packs are exactly the units floating about cheap as "dead".
• eBay UK and the for-sale section here are your best bet; ask the seller for a photo of the terminal end so you confirm the lid and brass stud are intact before money changes hands.
• A Specialized dealer can also order the terminal cap as a spare — worth a five-minute call before buying a whole donor pack.

One caution: that bolt carries the full motor current, so whatever lid you fit, get the contact clean, torqued and greased per Mikerb's method — Specialized use Nyogel on the Rosenberger seals (non-conductive, keep it off the contacts themselves). A poor connection there shows up later as cut-outs under load, which is a miserable thing to chase.

If you can tell me the exact Wh printed on your pack (460 / 500 / 504), I'll narrow down which donors match.

Mine is a gen 2, 700Wh battery, I did not qualify for the replacement. I never did any maintenance on the bolt and it got stuck. I then forced the screw and it started spinning. With some creative work I managed to remove the battery from the bike. Now I need a replacement lid to be able to mount the battery on the bike again.
@Greg Watts

ErwinG said:

Mine is a gen 2, 700Wh battery, I did not qualify for the replacement. I never did any maintenance on the bolt and it got stuck. I then forced the screw and it started spinning. With some creative work I managed to remove the battery from the bike. Now I need a replacement lid to be able to mount th...

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@ErwinG - cheers for the correction, that saves us going down the wrong rabbit hole entirely.

So you've got the M2 700Wh pack - Gen 2 system, not Gen 1, and not covered by the recall. The brass bolt spun free without coming out cleanly, and now you need a replacement lid to get the battery seated and locked back on the bike. Understood.

The lid (sometimes called the battery end cap or terminal cover) is the bit with the brass locking bolt moulded into it. On the M2 700Wh pack that's the part you're after. A few avenues worth trying:

• Specialized dealer, direct - worth a call with the battery part number in hand. The M2 700Wh is part S196800013 (or its later revisions S206800004 / S226800018 depending on which iteration you have). Ask specifically for the end cap / battery lid rather than the whole pack - some dealers can order just the cap as a service part.

• Donor pack - a dead M2 700Wh from a 2019 - 2021 Levo or Kenevo. eBay UK and the for-sale section here are both worth watching. Ask the seller for a photo of the terminal end before committing - you only need the lid intact, not the cells.

• iFixit / third-party repair - less well-trodden for Specialized packs but worth a search; some battery repair shops stock or can fabricate end caps.

One thing worth confirming before you buy: do you have the original M2 700Wh, or has it ever been swapped to a revised variant? The part numbers above cover the main revision chain, but if you can photograph the label on your pack that'll confirm which cap you need.