I measured the capacity of my 800 Wh Battery. Did anyone else?

Eifeltom

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Hello everyone,

I measured the capacity of my two 800mAh batteries.
I drained both batteries until the motor assistance cut out, meaning until the charge level dropped from 2% to 1%.

I then fully charged them and measured the energy supplied both on the primary side using a Shelly and on the secondary side using a DC energy meter from AliExpress (Atorch CW20).

I consider the CW20 to be very accurate; at least, it displays a charging current of 5.996 amps during the constant-current phase and exactly 42.00 volts during the constant-voltage phase.

The results for the two batteries hardly differ; they show 727 Wh and 732 Wh of energy supplied, measured between the charger and the battery. On the primary side, it’s about 800 Wh in each case.

Considering that you can certainly draw even less energy due to heat loss, I find the +-730 Wh to be low for an “800” battery, which is even printed with a rated capacity of 811 Wh.

Ridecontrol App says my batteries are 93% SOH and 95 cycles, respectively 94% and 66 cycles.

My kitsemtb auxiliary battery performs better with 389 Wh of capacity at an officially rated 400 Wh.

Has anyone ever measured this before and has any comparison data, preferably from other brands as well?

-Tom
 
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Have always been skeptical about Giant battery capacities. My guess is the 800Wh is really 720Wh.

21700 cells @ 4000Mah is 20A x 36V = 720.
21700 cells @ 4500Mah is 22.5A x 36V = 810.
21700 cells @ 5000Mah is 25A x 36V = 900.

Oddly EnergyPak 500Wh batteries are identical in weight to 625Wh and I don't see significant difference in range ?
 
Hello everyone,

I measured the capacity of my two 800mAh batteries.
I drained both batteries until the motor assistance cut out, meaning until the charge level dropped from 2% to 1%.

I then fully charged them and measured the energy supplied both on the primary side using a Shelly and on the secondary side using a DC energy meter from AliExpress (Atorch CW20).

I consider the CW20 to be very accurate; at least, it displays a charging current of 5.996 amps during the constant-current phase and exactly 42.00 volts during the constant-voltage phase.

The results for the two batteries hardly differ; they show 727 Wh and 732 Wh of energy supplied, measured between the charger and the battery. On the primary side, it’s about 800 Wh in each case.

Considering that you can certainly draw even less energy due to heat loss, I find the +-730 Wh to be low for an “800” battery, which is even printed with a rated capacity of 811 Wh.

Ridecontrol App says my batteries are 93% SOH and 95 cycles, respectively 94% and 66 cycles.

My kitsemtb auxiliary battery performs better with 389 Wh of capacity at an officially rated 400 Wh.

Has anyone ever measured this before and has any comparison data, preferably from other brands as well?

-Tom
Very interesting. I would like to do the same, actually. I do not understand what you mean with
I then fully charged them and measured the energy supplied both on the primary side using a Shelly and on the secondary side using a DC energy meter from AliExpress (Atorch CW20).
Why have you measured the energy on the primary side of the charger? And how did you measured it, V x I?
 
I thing it's a wrong calculation. 1% of battery power on HMI wouldn't mean it's remaining 1% of power inside battery
 
Hello everyone,

I measured the capacity of my two 800mAh batteries.
I drained both batteries until the motor assistance cut out, meaning until the charge level dropped from 2% to 1%.

I then fully charged them and measured the energy supplied both on the primary side using a Shelly and on the secondary side using a DC energy meter from AliExpress (Atorch CW20).

I consider the CW20 to be very accurate; at least, it displays a charging current of 5.996 amps during the constant-current phase and exactly 42.00 volts during the constant-voltage phase.

The results for the two batteries hardly differ; they show 727 Wh and 732 Wh of energy supplied, measured between the charger and the battery. On the primary side, it’s about 800 Wh in each case.

Considering that you can certainly draw even less energy due to heat loss, I find the +-730 Wh to be low for an “800” battery, which is even printed with a rated capacity of 811 Wh.

Ridecontrol App says my batteries are 93% SOH and 95 cycles, respectively 94% and 66 cycles.

My kitsemtb auxiliary battery performs better with 389 Wh of capacity at an officially rated 400 Wh.

Has anyone ever measured this before and has any comparison data, preferably from other brands as well?

-Tom
I have done quite a bit of Lithium battery cell testing for use on eBike batteries.
The rated packed value will be the total rated energy of the cells when "brand new", and most likely be for a discharge down to 2.5V at C/2 current load.
This makes the rated pack value virtually impossible to get out of a battery pack with cells in series.
The whole pack will also be limited by the worst cell capacity inside it....

For maintaining cell balance and battery pack life a good BMS will allow the cells to go down to about 3V before cutoff.
Also bearing in mind the the current power draw on the eBike battery pack will vary between 1C to 3C which is 5 - 15 times the test current used by the cell manufacturer.
So at best from a brand new battery pack you can assume you should get 90% of the battery rated capacity as "use-able".

Also note that when you test the energy going in to charge a battery pack it will always measure higher than what you get out of it. The difference is consumed by heating the pack! which can be quite a lot at high charge and discharge currents.

If you want the most out of the battery pack you have to run at low power / eco mode, but not much fun in that...
 
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