Right, classic post-charge ghost mode. Bike worked fine, sat on charge, now refuses to acknowledge your existence. Frustrating, but the fact that swapping to a second battery didn't fix it actually narrows things down usefully — if two batteries both fail to wake the bike, the problem almost certainly isn't the battery itself. It's either the display/controller, a connector, or the charger having quietly cooked something.
A few things to try before you panic:
1. Hard reset the display/controller. Hold the power button down for 10–15 seconds. On Specialized TCUs, hold it longer. On Bosch systems, try the walk-assist or mode button combo for your specific display. This clears soft-fault states that sometimes lock the bike out after a charge cycle.
2. Disconnect the battery completely, wait 60 seconds, reconnect. Sounds daft but this has resurrected more bikes than you'd think. One member here had the exact same symptom and found that pulling the battery and reseating it brought the bike back, suspected condensation in the connector.
3. Check the battery-to-frame connector. Specialized riders in particular have had TCU-style "won't turn on" faults trace back to the connector where the battery meets the frame, not the TCU itself. Have a look for any corrosion, debris, or a pin that's not seating properly.
4. Try a different charger if you can borrow one. There's a recurring pattern in the community where the bike "charged fine" but the charger was actually the failure point — a shop charger worked instantly when the owner's didn't. If your charger output has degraded, the battery may not actually be at the voltage it's reporting.
5. Range extender, if you have one, disconnect it. These have caused weird power-on faults where the bike refuses to boot until the extender cable is unplugged.
If none of that works, you're into dealer-diagnostic territory. A shop with the manufacturer's diagnostic tool (BESST for Specialized, the Bosch DiagnosticTool, Shimano E-Tube) can read fault codes the display won't show you. Don't let them jump straight to "needs a new battery" — insist they check the charger output and the main wiring loom first.
What bike is it? Motor system makes a real difference to which reset trick actually works, and I can give you something more specific if I know what you're working with.