Technically, the answer is "rim, spokes and tyre' - then build your new wheel on the existing hub.
But realistically the hub isn't of great quality, so it's a good opportunity to upgrade.
The article suggested it steepened the HA by 0.5 degrees - which you can then easily counteract by...
Yep, I did exactly the same. And also went down to a 36 tooth chainring.
Has reduced the number of pedal strikes and motor / chainring hits to virtually zero.
Maybe your buddy put in more effort so the bike didn't need to give as much assistance?
But by how much was the difference - was it huge, or just a couple of kms?
No setup required - it just works.
If you're putting a 29 on, then if you want accurate speed / odo then you'd need to get the wheel size adjusted on the motor software.
But I've left mine as it was - so at a real 25kmh (when the assistance cuts out) I'm actually doing 26.3km/h. I'm OK with...
How much do you weigh?
I've always tried to get about 30% sag on the rear, especially on an e-bike where pedalling efficiency isn't so important, so would have thought you'd be better with 450lb or less.
Did you measure the sag with the 500 spring?
Queries about pedal strikes usually get the response that it's all about technique, and there's certainly some truth in that.
However, I think the BB on these bikes is pretty low compared to many others on the market. I was getting a few pedal strikes, but my main issue was bashing the motor...
Only if you know what size cassette, chainring and wheel size you're running. These are easily changed so the computer would be making assumptions that could be wrong.
But I will say I'm not sure why people are replying to tell you that you shouldn't want it, don't need it etc. It's up to you -...
They do. But it only works when you have a Di2 derailleur as that's the only way it can know definitively what gear you're in. If you don't have Di2 it just shows 'M' (which I'd guess is for Manual?)
I've put a Sprindex spring on mine - I'm about 80kg kitted up and have settled on running it at 420. Seems to be a good balance of reasonably plush, with just the occasional bottom out.
I suppose it depends when you bought it - I got mine about 8 months ago and at that time the supply issues from Covid were still a big issue. Mine came with Vee Rubber instead of Maxxis, plus the Sunrace cassette and a 50mm stem instead of 35mm - but it was a choice of the Marin, or not a lot...
Does anyone do a chain guide with bash guard (like this - guard ) that fits the EP8 motor. It says on the specs of my Marin that it is ISCG compatible, but it seems that's not the case and it needs to be a special 'Shimano spec'.
Can't seem to find anything listed anywhere.
Thanks in advance!
Fair enough - 2.50 is wide enough for me. I had 2.8s on my previous bike and eventually got rid of them as they were just too vague. I gave the Vee Rubber 2.8s a try on this bike, but again didn't like them.
If you happen to be passing Sydney any time soon, you can have my lightly used 2.8...
What casing is on the existing Assegai that you find too 'unsturdy'? I gave up on Exo and Exo+ years ago as I was constantly getting sidewall punctures (even with a cushcore), but have found the DD and DH casings to be much more robust. I'm currently running a DD Assegai and will be replacing it...
My E2 has the Sunrace cassette (I've also seen the specs showing SLX) which has the five(?) largest sprockets in a one-piece unit, but the remaining smaller ones go on individually.
Problem is that there's a lot of movement on the spines (rotational, not side to side) so whilst the one gear...