It's not the cover that's squeaking, it's the cables inside. Take the cover off and put a thin foam sheet or similar between the rubbing cables and the noise will stay away.
That's what I thought until I saw the difference between the air shafts - the piston still starts at the same position within the stanchion so if you keep the two tokens, the fork would behave exactly the same as the 150mm air shaft .......so if you were getting 140mm travel on a particular...
They're standard Fox 36 forks. If you want to double check, remove the top of the air side leg and look at the colour of the tokens. Standard Fox 36 forks have orange tokens and the emtb version take the green ones from the 34.
Slightly off topic......your experience of the SL power delivery is exactly the same as what I find. Are you running the latest software update for the motor? I'm still on the software that the bike came with in October last year and I wonder if the latest update fixes that surge you get in level 3
Pulling the outer cable out of the adjuster barrel will allow you to drop the seat......pull it straight and don't just yank on the outer cable or your weak, poorly designed frame and handlebars will expode into a thousand pieces!
You could have pulled on the outer cable or used the SWAT tool to drop your seat post as a 'get me home' measure....or just remembered how you used to ride before droppers were even invented. I'm not even going to bother explaining why bits break off if you crash or manage to smash them with...
There's a split in the trail after the stony section and a couple switch backs. The black climb is called Up and Over and has some incredibly difficult steps which look like they've taken a few crank and dérailleur hits over the years. I've only done that on a traditional mtb and usually ended...
If you'd bought the direct replacement (LE version) it would have been nearer to 50CND. At least you now have the more robust alloy version so it shouldn't break as easily if you bend it in a direction it wasn't designed for.
The FC did a great job on the Bloody Bush trail about year ago now. There was a section where dozens of trees had fallen due to wind so you had to carry your bike in the knee high grass next to the wall that borders with Scotland and they felled that area whilst doing no damage to the trails...
That's the theory for running narrow tyres on 4x4s and I used to think the same for mtbs, but when you look at the spacing of the tread blocks of a 2.4 vs 2.6 you'll see why it's the opposite for many of the popular tyres used during UK winters (e.g. Magic Mary). The 2.6 will clear the mud far...
It's only like that when you use Turbo at a time that much less assistance (i.e. no assistance) is required. Stick it in Turbo when you want a bit of over-run to get over a step with the pedals flat or on seriously steep terrain. The delivery in Eco and Sport is incredibly smooth and feels...
Just to put something else into the mix here - UK riders will probably stick a 2.6 tyre up front to cope with the mud and slop we have from September to April. If you keep a 2.4 in the rear you'll probably want to stick to a 150mm fork so climbing ability is not compromised too much.
I wouldn't knock the rear shock that comes on the 2020 expert as it's the elite version. Even the stock forks will handle more than most give credit for although I did upgrade mine to 36 performance elites as I was able to get hold of a new set for below £600. You should be able to get the 2020...