Recent content by DugT

You Win! My rear wheel "Switch lever" axel bolt wasn't quite tight enough. It is supposed to be torqued to 10NM. It needed to be tightened one full revolution. Now the bike is nice and quiet. Thank You!

I'll check the cassette lock ring and the rear heel attachment and rear bearing tightness.

There was an occasional squeak from the bottom bracket. Adjusting the compensations screws solved that problem. I torqued the bolts to 20NM at the time but I will check them again. This sound is much different than the loose motor squeak.

I'm getting a new weird sound. It is a brief clunk that seems to be coming from the bottom bracket. It only occurs when I'm pedalling fast and hard like at the begging of an uphill. It happens randomly, not in synch with pedalling. Any guesses what that could be? It's not the chain or the crank...

Thanks for the info! I looked at my bike and the chain ring is 32T like you said. I googled the spec for it and got 34t. Just now I went to Treks website and found this for my exe 9,8XT. Going from 32t to 30t is only 6.4% improvement. I wish there was a 28T chainring but I would notice the...

Should I get a small chainring? With the stock 34T chainring I need assist level 2 on steep sections and level 3 if the trail is steep and long. That works but I end up going kinda fast if I keep my rpm's up. My manual bike has a 28 tooth chainring and it is perfect. Should I just get used to...

What improves with a better headset?

I think I read in this thread that if the crank arms are misaligned, the motor mechanism will figure it out and smooth out but first it has to be ridden for at least twenty miles.

I hope so but I'm skeptical because the chain already has about 300 miles on it. Maybe the chain is a slightly different shape because the waxing.

I waxed it for the first time a couple of days ago. I'm going to try directly waxing the chainwheel with molten wax and a small brush. That should make it more quiet but I think it should be such a tight fit with so much friction.

Now that my bike is quieter because I fixed the hard pedalling clicking problem, I notice a new noise. The noise is from the chain riding on the chainring. It only happens when i:m in a lower gear (bigger rear sprocket) which is when the chain is under tension from the rear derailleur. The chain...

Trust me, you need to do this. It is impossible to see those adjusters until the motor is removed but you only need to remove the two mounting bolts to remove the motor. Edit: By the way, based on the manual, I thought the compensation screws would be visible so I was confused too until I...

Did you remove your motor? You can't see the width Compensation bolts until you remove the motor. The earliest versions do not have the compensation bolts.

I just did mine and I don't have a T55 but a big allen wrench worked well. I think it was an 8. There was no risk of stripping the star head. The compensation screws are not tight but they were not loose enough for me to twist without a tool. It is easy to make little changes for fine tuning. I...

Thank you very much! It seems like a good first step is to just torque the mounting bolts. If that doesn't fix it, then do the whole procedure of removing the motor and measuring. I have a micrometer so theoretically I could do this if it is as simple as it looks. Is it? If not, I'm not sure...