Recent content by Butane

I did a nice solid 3 hour ride today with all of this in mind and I had my analogue bike along with my Levo SL as I was riding with a friend. We traded bikes several times so I got a very good back to back comparison. I tested it out and it is definitely the over-run fucking with my muscle...

Nice, I am actually gonna try this today to see if it works on the SL motor. Good advice.

Id encourage you to do the same. I have definitely been an asshole in some of my posts. However, many people have given me the time of day which has led to an actually civil and productive discussion, which you have essentially not contributed to whatsoever and have actively tried to derail in...

Man my dude over here is trying very hard to have an argument online that I care nothing about. We call that a troll on most other forums. On a more productive note, it's 100% down to a different technique being necessary because of the over-run where the motor continually applies torque after...

You didn't, and still don't, have anything to add to the discussion.

Honestly some extremely helpful comments here. Over-run or whatever you want to call it is definitely my issue. In summary, it seems most E-mtb motors continue to give torque for some set amount of time after you stop pedaling to make things feel smoother, and this means you have to wait some...

Exactly, seems like I need to work around that extra little bit of torque the motor continues giving when you let off the cranks and just wait slightly longer to shift than I would on a regular MTB. Solid discussion and thanks for being helpful. Glad to see there are people on this forum willing...

I'm honestly starting to think this is what is going on. Because it is only when I am on a hill that gets steeper. On a regular MTB you just pedal hard for a sec to gain enough extra speed so that you can shift and immediately let off the cranks so the shift is smooth and then reapply crank...

Ya I'd be keeping my SRAM GX Eagle cassette and just swapping out the deraillur and shifters with the GX AXS upgrade kit. So it would be full SRAM.

It's really only moments where I am on a hill, and that hills grade increases so I have to drop another gear. Normally on an standard MTB I would pedal hard for a second and then downshift while I let off torque on the cranks so that it shifts smooth. When I try that on my SL, when I let off on...

It shifts fine on flat, it's really only moments where I am on a hill, and that hills grade increases so I have to drop another gear. Normally I would pedal hard for a second and then downshift while I let off torque on the cranks so that it shifts smooth. When I try that on my SL, when I let...

Interesting and thanks for actually contributing to the discussion. So you are saying that in your experience the electronic systems aren't any easier on the drivetrain than a cable system?

I'm ignoring the butthurt and socially deficient members of this forum in leu of possibly getting some actual advice. From a BikeRadar article: "Like the other AXS stablemates, the GX version benefits from a more forward design that increases chain wrap around the cassette. This should...

Cool thanks for another post adding nothing to the discussion. I have explained that I do not have this issue on a regular MTB. It is easy to reduce torque on a regular MTB to make shifting smooth, it is near impossible even on the lowest assist setting to not get a grinding shift if you are...

I posted a similar thread in the Specialized forum but I think this is more of a general question as it can really apply to all EMTBs. I am competent at reducing the torque on my cranks when I downshift on hills on a regular MTB, but I have found it essentially impossible to downshift on a hill...