Poor man's CEF55 build for long trips with 1kWh battery.

[borysgo2]

Hi all mad bikers.

Another day, another bike to build.
Some time ago I got two frames, CEF55 and CEF69.
Decided to build CEF55 first.
This is trail bike build for the long journeys.

Painted with RCF blue and some AUDI white color paint.

FORK: LYRIK 150MM
SHOCK: SELECT+ 210X55
BRAKES: SOME V4 FROM ALI
BRAKE ROTORS: Avid 203mm-front and 180mm rear
WHEELS: DT Swiss rims (models as on the photos), Alpine 1.7MM spokes, brass niples and KOOZER 455 hubs (32 hole)
TYRES: Continental Enduro Soft 29x2,4''- Kryptotal FR and Xynotal
DRIVETRAIN: 11S LINKGLIDE
CHAINRING: 38T (max size)
BATTERY: 13S4P 48V 1000Wh Samsung INR21700-58E (CC5563F101)
I have measured few cells at 0.5A discharge, outputing close to 5500mAh
BACK FENDER: RRP Proguard Front Mudguard - SHORT
DROPPER: E13 VARIO 180MM slammed all the way down as insertion lenght of L frame is only about 295mm.
PEDALS, SADDLE, STEM, HANDLEBAR: got it on ALI


A few pictures bellow:


Weight of the bike with no pedals is about 21.85kG


Additionally I made a small module (about 30W max) for automatic LED headlight. I used Magicshine ME2000 light, gives plenty of light.



Battery is mounted very tight in the frame. Wrapped as below in 3 simple steps:



Done only short ride to bed in the brakes, max power I could get on the display with full battery is about 605W (which is plenty for me).


Overall happy with the build. Have to take it for some longer trip and dip it in the mud couple of times to see if it was worth it.

Regards
Peter

On the private road goes also pretty fast...

 

[kaaskopf]

nice build

 

[borysgo2]

Paired Garmin Explorer2 with DPC030.1 display. There were 3 new sensors visible:
-3377 speed sensor
-3377 power sensor
-3377 eBike (for battery and modes used)

Is there a way to display rider input power with bafang stuff?

Thanks

 

[borysgo2]

During a past few days found 2 minor bugs related to the CEF55 frame.

no1.
Lower motor mounting has a good bit of the play in the frame. The gap gets smaller when the mounting bolt is tightened (but it is still there).
In my case I have to make a distance washer --> ID-10mm, OD-20mm, 0.7mm thick.
My advice is to install the distance washer on the non drive side of the motor, so the max 38T chainring clearance is not affected.


no2.
Non drive side motor casing is rubbing badly on the frame - as on the pic bellow. It is so bad that it caused a small crack on the frame + some of carbon fibers got cut. Hope crack will not develop any further.


I just filed a bit of the material of the motor and problem is gone.


Other than that - so far so good.
Regards

 

[borysgo2]

Completed 1kWh battery test.
Done 4 rides. About 85% of all rides were off road. Used mixed ride modes but mostly ECO and TOUR, occasionally used SPORT and BOOST modes. One of the rides done mostly during the night with Magicshine ME2000 light at full 24W power.

Overall done 140km @ 3000 vertical meters. Total ride time was about 7.5 hour.

I can say that bike is ready for very intense, long, full day trip.

EDIT:
A bit of a feedback about FAKE TAXI 48V E1 firmware.
Generally I like it. Power is delivered smoothly, rather on slow side, but I like it that way.
I have drained cells down to 3.05V - 0%. There was no power limitation, at 2% of the battery left, I could use SPORT mode with over 200W on the display, only drawback was that with this power output, battery voltage dropped fast and bike turned off itself (might be my BMS setting, have to check that).

With full battery ECO mode has 150W and TOUR about 200W.
When batt voltage goes down, power delivery is lowering down to 115W and 165W at 5% battery left on the display.

Regards
Peter

 

[Freda]

Completed 1kWh battery test.
Done 4 rides. About 85% of all rides were off road. Used mixed ride modes but mostly ECO and TOUR, occasionally used SPORT and BOOST modes. One of the rides done mostly during the night with Magicshine ME2000 light at full 24W power.

Overall done 140km @ 3000 vertical meters. Total ride time was about 7.5 hour.

I can say that bike is ready for very intense, long, full day trip.

View attachment 179904


EDIT:
A bit of a feedback about FAKE TAXI 48V E1 firmware.
Generally I like it. Power is delivered smoothly, rather on slow side, but I like it that way.
I have drained cells down to 3.05V - 0%. There was no power limitation, at 2% of the battery left, I could use SPORT mode with over 200W on the display, only drawback was that with this power output, battery voltage dropped fast and bike turned off itself (might be my BMS setting, have to check that).

With full battery ECO mode has 150W and TOUR about 200W.
When batt voltage goes down, power delivery is lowering down to 115W and 165W at 5% battery left on the display.

Regards
Peter

This is interesting! I have the f1 firmware, Jbd bms. At 4% it shut off by itself. I was thinking it might a single, or a few, cells going too low. After maybe 30 seconds it started again. But only for maybe 10 minutes more of easy riding.

 

[borysgo2]

This is interesting! I have the f1 firmware, Jbd bms. At 4% it shut off by itself. I was thinking it might a single, or a few, cells going too low. After maybe 30 seconds it started again. But only for maybe 10 minutes more of easy riding.

Setup in JBD bms a bit lower minimal cell voltage and recovery voltage. I have 2750mV as minimal voltage and 2850mV as recovery. Take in account also the fact of battery internal resistance, higher the current, higher voltage drop, so close to 3V it will be easier to trigger BMS protection parameters.

 

[Green Leopard Print]

Do you happen to have pictures of when you built the battery pack?

 

[borysgo2]

Do you happen to have pictures of when you built the battery pack?

Unfortunately I do not have photos from battery build. Next time I will prepare a small tutorial.
It is easy enough.

Regards