Crestline x DJI - RS 181 SPECTRE Edition

[Plummet]

Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!

Assuming its similar to my bosch S180. I've got it down to 5 mins. Theres 4 cap screws to unbolt the batter and two on the plastic cover. Bosch also has one on the battery connector.

Its bit fiddly, not as quick change as a side or front entry, But better than having to drop the motor to change.

 

[Lightme]

Assuming its similar to my bosch S180. I've got it down to 5 mins. Theres 4 cap screws to unbolt the batter and two on the plastic cover. Bosch also has one on the battery connector.

Its bit fiddly, not as quick change as a side or front entry, But better than having to drop the motor to change.

Thanks!

 

[Powerslider]

Thank you, that answers that. By slow I mean how long it takes to run the cassette. DI2 will run the cassette in less than half the time of what AXS does. As I understand it, T is slower. I am green to ebiking, but do realize that this is probably more important for non-ebike technical riding. On my pedal bikes, AXS drove me crazy. I am not an XC rider. I went to AXS from a 2x9 rapid rise. On that drivetrain I could drop half my gear range in half a second. To many this may sound meaningless, but in the desert with a lot of deep washes to climb out of, it is a big time difference, and less stalling frustration.

But I find I down shift a lot less on an eMTB.

 

[sethimus]

But I find I down shift a lot less on an eMTB.

that's good for your lbs and the cassette market in total

 

[John_likes_bikes]

To clarify, it appears that the original AXS shift speed has not been improved by the firmware updates, Just the T has. Transmission does not appeal to me since it still cannot get close to shift speed of Shimano. I have really enjoyed what Shimano has done here, but have concerns.

I assume that powering the DI2 RD from the bike is not a challenge? Would be nice to only have one battery to charge.

Again, ebike newb. Under 80N of torque, and no automatic unloading, I cant just unload the pedals (correct me if I am wrong) and dump 4 (shimano) gears. I am pretty sure a chain will not survive unless I solve this problem. How do you guys with mech derailleurs handle this? Disable overun? Be kind.

Only SRAM derailleurs, T type and I believe the original AXS can run off the Avinox power. Shifting without pedaling is an absolute game changer.

Multi shifts are not impossible on an emtb but you're correct, it's going to eat chains and cassettes under load no mater the drive train you're using. Even just from the torque of the motor and not pedaling. It's just something different to get used on emtbs. The power from the motor bridges gaps in power needed between gears so you can be +/- 1 or 2 "correct" gears and it all works out.

 

[Powerslider]

SRAM makes clear (in their app where you activate it) multi-shift on an e-bike voids their warranty. Telling.

 

[digitale]

I wonder if it's only a matter of time until we see Shimano Di2 integration with Avinox. It's already or soon to be available with Bosch CX Gen 5 (I'm talking about the new Wireless Di2, not the previous wire-only 8120 or 8150 can't remember that worked with Shimano EP8). I'm probably gonna wait it out, I have a Linkglide shifter/derailleur/cassette/chain to throw on my RS181.2 to hold me over if it's not available in April.

 

[KillerbeeDH]

Avinox does not integrate with Shimano, only SRAM.

After doing a quick AI scan, it would appear that DI2 is integrated into Avinox with some manufacturers. Yet I can find no specifics. Not even AVINOX replied with any useful information. Just said to contact Crestline. And Troydon said "I dont think so". How am I the first person to ask this?

 

[mtnrider]

I wonder if it's only a matter of time until we see Shimano Di2 integration with Avinox.

Already being done on the new Teewing Flux.

.

 

[Powerslider]

I'd think the shoe you'd need to buy could be wired in. Probably would confirm the voltage spec but it's likely compatible.

 

[Candid]

Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!

Check this out

 

[sethimus]

I wonder if it's only a matter of time until we see Shimano Di2 integration with Avinox. It's already or soon to be available with Bosch CX Gen 5 (I'm talking about the new Wireless Di2, not the previous wire-only 8120 or 8150 can't remember that worked with Shimano EP8). I'm probably gonna wait it out, I have a Linkglide shifter/derailleur/cassette/chain to throw on my RS181.2 to hold me over if it's not available in April.

that would need software integration. axs on avinox is not done via software, but by monitoring power demand on the auxiliary port. if it detects power usage it’s either turning the chainring when you are coasting or reducing torque when you are pedaling

 

[digitale]

that would need software integration. axs on avinox is not done via software, but by monitoring power demand on the auxiliary port. if it detects power usage it’s either turning the chainring when you are coasting or reducing torque when you are pedaling

How would it work any differently? Avinox would detect the power demands on the di2 rear derailleur. I'm not sure if Bosch does it the same way, but it for sure works with Bosch. Of course you'd need a wire that connects the drive unit to the avinox like the bosch setup.

 

[sethimus]

How would it work any differently? Avinox would detect the power demands on the di2 rear derailleur. I'm not sure if Bosch does it the same way, but it for sure works with Bosch. Of course you'd need a wire that connects the drive unit to the avinox like the bosch setup.

isn’t the bosch solution wirelessly done? afaik there are no cable options on the current di2 mtb products

 

[digitale]

isn’t the bosch solution wirelessly done? afaik there are no cable options on the current di2 mtb products

Nope via wire. Not sure if it's released yet to the public but wynn masters is on it.

 

[sethimus]

interesting, you are right. there is the EW-PS300 cable needed. we don’t sell any di2 ebikes so i hadn‘t the chance yet to play around with it. but you need to pair both systems too via software, which isn’t needed with the avinox. imho that’s a proper system integration, the avinox looks more like a work around. or does anyone know if the axs talks to the avinox head unit too?

 

[John_likes_bikes]

interesting, you are right. there is the EW-PS300 cable needed. we don’t sell any di2 ebikes so i hadn‘t the chance yet to play around with it. but you need to pair both systems too via software, which isn’t needed with the avinox. imho that’s a proper system integration, the avinox looks more like a work around. or does anyone know if the axs talks to the avinox head unit too?

As it was explained to me someone like SRAM doesn't want to share the secure way their bluetooth communicates (that's the extend of my technological bluetooth knowledge) with others. The SRAM eagle EMTB does communicate wireless to the derailleur. I don't know that it can supply power to the derailleur. In that way the Avinox/AXS setup is better.

 

[Scford]

Well guys having been on the bike for several months now I’m coming to the conclusion i may have bought the wrong size, went with the RH3 as i normally ride large bikes but thinking maybe I should have gone rh2. I can ride the bike obviously but I’m constantly tweaking to try and improve the feel. Main issues have been nose heavy off jumps, rearward bias when things get gnarlier, wondering front end, kinda feels washy at times. This is the longest bike I’ve ever been on. I love the bike but I’m kinda at the point where I’m thinking of selling it. I was wondering if anyone was in santa cruz/bay area with an RH2 that would be willing to meet up sometime and let me check out the sizing, maybe take it down a few sections of trail.

 

[KillerbeeDH]

Well guys having been on the bike for several months now I’m coming to the conclusion i may have bought the wrong size, went with the RH3 as i normally ride large bikes but thinking maybe I should have gone rh2. I can ride the bike obviously but I’m constantly tweaking to try and improve the feel. Main issues have been nose heavy off jumps, rearward bias when things get gnarlier, wondering front end, kinda feels washy at times. This is the longest bike I’ve ever been on. I love the bike but I’m kinda at the point where I’m thinking of selling it. I was wondering if anyone was in santa cruz/bay area with an RH2 that would be willing to meet up sometime and let me check out the sizing, maybe take it down a few sections of trail.

Sorry I cant help. But for some of us you are a data point. Can you provide your own personal dimensions, height, inseam, stem length, bar rise, crank length, wheel config, and CS length. It would be useful to know your experience level and type of riding.

 

[digitale]

Sorry I cant help. But for some of us you are a data point. Can you provide your own personal dimensions, height, inseam, stem length, bar rise, crank length, wheel config, and CS length. It would be useful to know your experience level and type of riding.

+1 for this. I experience a lot of the same issues when I'm riding shorter CS length bikes.

 

[Blownoutrides]

+1 for this. I experience a lot of the same issues when I'm riding shorter CS length bikes.

Tall and big fan of long (proportional) rear ends. Love my Dreadnought v2 with 475 CS. Solved the front tire wander issue I'd had on my Enduro and a few other XL bikes.

I have noticed that fork offset and stem length also contribute to the wander problem. Specifically, running lots of offset with a short stem will make that front wheel want to slide in flat corners, especially if the rear end length isn't quite proportional to the reach. I've had the best luck with a stem that roughly matches the offset.

To completely upend the whole thing my current E-rig is 491r / 440cs (but grows at sag due to HP) and it feels DIALED. Zero front end drift. It's also a mullet so maybe that's helping (?).

 

[Deleted member 37410]

Well guys having been on the bike for several months now I’m coming to the conclusion i may have bought the wrong size, went with the RH3 as i normally ride large bikes but thinking maybe I should have gone rh2. I can ride the bike obviously but I’m constantly tweaking to try and improve the feel. Main issues have been nose heavy off jumps, rearward bias when things get gnarlier, wondering front end, kinda feels washy at times. This is the longest bike I’ve ever been on. I love the bike but I’m kinda at the point where I’m thinking of selling it. I was wondering if anyone was in santa cruz/bay area with an RH2 that would be willing to meet up sometime and let me check out the sizing, maybe take it down a few sections of trail.

Put the raised and reversed stem on it, got downhill pros say its an (actual) game changer

 

[Scford]

Sorry I cant help. But for some of us you are a data point. Can you provide your own personal dimensions, height, inseam, stem length, bar rise, crank length, wheel config, and CS length. It would be useful to know your experience level and type of riding.

Sure, I’m 5’10” inseam i haven’t measured, gotta be 30-32. RH3, 445 cs mx setup. Ive tried 150 and 160mm cranks, 40 and 50mm stem, 30mm rise bars, 770 width. Tried 160/170/180 fork. I haven’t tried the reach reducer as it adds 14mm of stack height underneath the steerer tube and i dont want to rake the wheel out further. I still might try it with a 160 fork and short travel setting.

Again the main issue i’ve been trying to solve is the font end being dive off jumps and floppy on slower tech but bring the stem back and bars higher have pushed me to far off the back, all that has me thinking the front is just to far stretched out for me

 

[Brawwp]

Do you think longer cs could help? I’m 5’10 and ordered the rh3 with mx wheel 450 cs length (it was only offered in 450 cs for international, Hawaii, order). Was going to ask to go to 445cs, but maybe I’ll keep the 450 to help the front end and get weight more balanced in middle of bike.

 

[Scford]

Do you think longer cs could help? I’m 5’10 and ordered the rh3 with mx wheel 450 cs length (it was only offered in 450 cs for international, Hawaii, order). Was going to ask to go to 445cs, but maybe I’ll keep the 450 to help the front end and get weight more balanced in middle of bike.

It definitely might, i went 445 based off my previous eeb (sc bullit) having 445 stays and liking the feel. I’ve thought about going longer but its ~230 a pop to try it out and making the wheelbase longer seems like a bad idea

 

[Brawwp]

It definitely might, i went 445 based off my previous eeb (sc bullit) having 445 stays and liking the feel. I’ve thought about going longer but its ~230 a pop to try it out and making the wheelbase longer seems like a bad idea

Have you messed with your fork settings? Could be too slow rebound. Packing the fork and making the front drop on jumps, then packing and causing front to wash due to lost traction.

 

[FrogSkunk]

Have you messed with your fork settings? Could be too slow rebound. Packing the fork and making the front drop on jumps, then packing and causing front to wash due to lost traction.

This was my line of thinking as well. Before I truly understood how to make appropriate suspension adjustments, I suffered from some of those issues. Im a bigger guy, and slowing down the rebound on my shock/fork was a massive game changer. I was experiencing opposite effects as the rebound was way to fast

 

[Scford]

Have you messed with your fork settings? Could be too slow rebound. Packing the fork and making the front drop on jumps, then packing and causing front to wash due to lost traction.

Oh yea, pressure, tokens, lsc/hsc, and rebound. Running about 3-4 clicks of lsc, and rebound 2-3 faster than recommended.

 

[ShapeThings]

It definitely might, i went 445 based off my previous eeb (sc bullit) having 445 stays and liking the feel. I’ve thought about going longer but its ~230 a pop to try it out and making the wheelbase longer seems like a bad idea

I’m close in size and I would go with 450 chainstays in mullet and the -5mm reach adjust headset if I bought the Crestline. Also would try the 160mm fork too.

 

[John_likes_bikes]

Sure, I’m 5’10” inseam i haven’t measured, gotta be 30-32. RH3, 445 cs mx setup. Ive tried 150 and 160mm cranks, 40 and 50mm stem, 30mm rise bars, 770 width. Tried 160/170/180 fork. I haven’t tried the reach reducer as it adds 14mm of stack height underneath the steerer tube and i dont want to rake the wheel out further. I still might try it with a 160 fork and short travel setting.

Again the main issue i’ve been trying to solve is the font end being dive off jumps and floppy on slower tech but bring the stem back and bars higher have pushed me to far off the back, all that has me thinking the front is just to far stretched out for me

I''m your size and I went with the RH2 knowing I was going to run full 29 and that would make it feel even longer, and it seemed long on paper to begin with to me. Anyway, that's not helpful unless you sell and buy a RH2.

For any tweaking don't forget to change one setting at a time and test. I can imagine in the frustration you're feeling making multiple changes and feeling lost as to what's working and not. Also, if you're like me and probably most people, don't get too in your head about how you're riding by messing with things like your body positioning, how you jumbo, etc. That can throw everything out of wack.

To me, I would guess someone's on too SMALL of a bike, not too big with what you're experiencing. Which makes me think it's more of a rear/front suspension set up and balance issue. Too fast rebound in the back, fork wallowing in the mid travel/too much sag will push you forward on jumps no matter how fast the fork rebound is. It's all speculation really. What fork are you running?

Set up wise, longer CS and -5 reach adjust is going to help F/R center and put you more in the middle of the wheels. The +14mm stack is only like .5 a degree.