Just fitted some to my bike and I think you’ll be very happy. I suffer from hand pain and it’s nearly completely gone. dare I say it a bit of a game changer.Purchased some Revgrips ergos. Hopefully it will help with the hand fatigue on long rides.
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Just fitted some to my bike and I think you’ll be very happy. I suffer from hand pain and it’s nearly completely gone. dare I say it a bit of a game changer.Purchased some Revgrips ergos. Hopefully it will help with the hand fatigue on long rides.
I think Uberbike ones are OK for the money, those ones came on my bike when I bought it, they just had no power. I use the Magura MDRP ones, but they are a bit pricey and a little thicker which might cause you a little issue.Can you recommend a decent rotor that will fit my Codes and won’t break the bank? I was liking the lever feel of the thicker rotors. Not sure how thick you can go with Codes (and the wife’s DB8s)
That aircan looks super long from that angle. I assume it doesn't hit the frame during compression.Vivid Select custom tune for my Kenevo SL, don't want to mess with too many knobs anymoreView attachment 160103
The clearance is tight but it fits. What reassured me is that Specialized specs the expert model with the same shock, otherwise I would have second thoughtsThat aircan looks super long from that angle. I assume it doesn't hit the frame during compression.

They have a good YT channel too.Took both our January 2022 alloy Trek Rails to the LBS on Tuesday to have FS bearings replaced etc. My (L) had done about 4,300 miles and wife's (M) had done about 1,600 miles. Unsurprisingly the bearings were knackered. Got the bikes back today. Gotta recommend the LBS, top service.
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I reattached a crank that fell off mid-ride. I hate when that happens.
Backtracked to look for the sideload cap, but no luck. Just used a Shimano one I had lying around. There's no bearing to preload on this motor, like there would be with an external BB, so I threadlocked it with med/blue goop and tried to turn it good. Luckily not many of the spines got shredded.
View attachment 160204 View attachment 160205 View attachment 160206
The pinch bolts on these Pinnd cranks are T30, but T25 seemed to fit fine. Based on how big the pinch bolts are, I knew they could take a lot more than 8 Nm. The steel spindle on the motor can take that too, I bet, but there's a hole drilled out for the Shimano security tab to sit into that makes me second-guess myself.
This time I checked the install guide and saw they recommend 14 Nm for pinch bolts, 2 Nm for the preload, and also loctite (222 or 242) for the preload.
not tubeless?View attachment 160444
Saturday rode and had a puncture
Extra annoyance with it being a new tyre (~30 miles old) and I rode back to the van so amour a mile so scrap
Rich.
not tubeless?
was tubeless, had sealer in BUT didn't work![]()
I'm not going to mention the brand name but won't be using it again as have has several non-sealing episodes with small punctures
Rich.
That is unamusing for sure
Hope the rim's OK.
Out of curiosity, what sealant were you using and how much, and roughly what size were the unsealed holes?
ps - says "Michelin E-Wild" on the tyre.
Ah! Puckoff.was an unfortunate end to a good day (was at park closing time so not a wasted day)
the rim suvived with a minor dink although possibly from a previous incidentNukeproof Horizon Pro wheels are a favourite of mine and seem quite resiliant
as to sealant, begins with a p.......
and, yes, E-wild tyre. I like them and have worn out a few riding Bpw and this is the first one I've punctured!
Rich.
Ah! Puckoff.
Yeah...

I had same creaking issue when peddling hard. Replaced all 14 suspension bearings - still creaked. Found reviews like this on motor mount creaks so tried that next. I found that all of the bolts were still tight and properly torqued up. I did notice, however that the frame was rubbing against the motor housing (see pic). Looks like the original build had the motor a bit too far to the back causing this rub (and creak) between the housing and the frame under load. Since there is a bit of play on the bracket holes , I shifted the front mounts with these brackets adjusting the motor a tiny bit further forward. When re-mounted, the back plate screws are accessible so after bolting the front to the frame, I simply adjusted the back plates to line up with the frame holes. Note - in an abundance of caution, I also added some anti-seize between all metal to metal surfaces. No more creaks. So even if your bolts are still tight, look for this problem.A worthy investigation when you hear a creak like that. Any type of weird noise while peddling triggers my search for the source. Glad you caught it before anymore damage occurred.
Sometimes it’s not the cost of parts but rather the downtime …which could take months. Those brackets are notorious for coming loose and ignoring that noise or sound can be costly.
View attachment 156386
Sheared bracket bolts are almost impossible to remove from a magnesium casing. Thanks to the Motor Repair Centre a replacement cost my buddy $110. His downtime on the bike can’t be measured though.
