What did you do to your EBike this week?

Purchased some Revgrips ergos. Hopefully it will help with the hand fatigue on long rides.
Just fitted some to my bike and I think you’ll be very happy. I suffer from hand pain and it’s nearly completely gone. dare I say it a bit of a game changer.
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Can you recommend a decent rotor that will fit my Codes and won’t break the bank? I was liking the lever feel of the thicker rotors. Not sure how thick you can go with Codes (and the wife’s DB8s)
I think Uberbike ones are OK for the money, those ones came on my bike when I bought it, they just had no power. I use the Magura MDRP ones, but they are a bit pricey and a little thicker which might cause you a little issue.
 
1. Bled the brakes on my 3 year old/1400 mile bike......Code RSCs. honestly cannot remember the last time I bled them...if indeed I ever have! ( I get confused what maintenance I have done to which bike!)
2. Treated it to new pads from and back. Used RaceTi sintered pads as usual.........3 sets for the price of 1 set of SRAM/Galfer Green etc and no difference in performance.
3. New GX chain which is the second on the cassette.
4. Logged on to the Flow App for the first time in nearly a year. I was going to update to the version that enables more than 1 Bosch CX bike to be registered but found it had auto updated without me knowing! Both bikes now on the Flow app albeit I did not choose the bike names and I did not see any way of changing them..........so I now have to remember which one is which!. My only motivation to use Flow was so that I am ready if indeed the Bosch Gen4 gets any sort of update, like EMTB+, when the Bosch Gen5 gets all its updates in July.
As a rule I leave Flow alone. Both bikes were set up in terms of power settings when first bought, then left alone. What isnt broke leave alone is my motto!!
 
Not for bike but me

PXL_20250504_173538476.jpg
 
I reattached a crank that fell off mid-ride. I hate when that happens.

Backtracked to look for the sideload cap, but no luck. Just used a Shimano one I had lying around. There's no bearing to preload on this motor, like there would be with an external BB, so I threadlocked it with med/blue goop and tried to turn it good. Luckily not many of the spines got shredded.

PXL_20250508_003503821.jpg PXL_20250508_003508173.jpg PXL_20250508_003514286.jpg

The pinch bolts on these Pinnd cranks are T30, but T25 seemed to fit fine. Based on how big the pinch bolts are, I knew they could take a lot more than 8 Nm. The steel spindle on the motor can take that too, I bet, but there's a hole drilled out for the Shimano security tab to sit into that makes me second-guess myself.

This time I checked the install guide and saw they recommend 14 Nm for pinch bolts, 2 Nm for the preload, and also loctite (222 or 242) for the preload.
 
Last edited:
Took both our January 2022 alloy Trek Rails to the LBS on Tuesday to have FS bearings replaced etc. My (L) had done about 4,300 miles and wife's (M) had done about 1,600 miles. Unsurprisingly the bearings were knackered. Got the bikes back today. Gotta recommend the LBS, top service.

 
Took both our January 2022 alloy Trek Rails to the LBS on Tuesday to have FS bearings replaced etc. My (L) had done about 4,300 miles and wife's (M) had done about 1,600 miles. Unsurprisingly the bearings were knackered. Got the bikes back today. Gotta recommend the LBS, top service.

They have a good YT channel too.
 
I reattached a crank that fell off mid-ride. I hate when that happens.

Backtracked to look for the sideload cap, but no luck. Just used a Shimano one I had lying around. There's no bearing to preload on this motor, like there would be with an external BB, so I threadlocked it with med/blue goop and tried to turn it good. Luckily not many of the spines got shredded.

View attachment 160204 View attachment 160205 View attachment 160206

The pinch bolts on these Pinnd cranks are T30, but T25 seemed to fit fine. Based on how big the pinch bolts are, I knew they could take a lot more than 8 Nm. The steel spindle on the motor can take that too, I bet, but there's a hole drilled out for the Shimano security tab to sit into that makes me second-guess myself.

This time I checked the install guide and saw they recommend 14 Nm for pinch bolts, 2 Nm for the preload, and also loctite (222 or 242) for the preload.

Don't you use the safety pins? Or doesn't your motor have the holes in the output shaft (ie BB). They stop the cranks falling off, and stop you putting the cranks on 180° out of alignment with said holes, which then puts huge stress on the area around the hole when tightening the pinch bolts (like a nutcracker) Only curious, not having a go, maybe some Shimano's don't need them.
 
was tubeless, had sealer in BUT didn't work :rolleyes:

I'm not going to mention the brand name but won't be using it again as have has several non-sealing episodes with small punctures🤬

Rich.

That is unamusing for sure 😕

Hope the rim's OK.

Out of curiosity, what sealant were you using and how much, and roughly what size were the unsealed holes?

ps - says "Michelin E-Wild" on the tyre.
 
That is unamusing for sure 😕

Hope the rim's OK.

Out of curiosity, what sealant were you using and how much, and roughly what size were the unsealed holes?

ps - says "Michelin E-Wild" on the tyre.

was an unfortunate end to a good day (was at park closing time so not a wasted day 😶 )

the rim suvived with a minor dink although possibly from a previous incident;) Nukeproof Horizon Pro wheels are a favourite of mine and seem quite resiliant(y)

as to sealant, begins with a p.......

and, yes, E-wild tyre. I like them and have worn out a few riding Bpw and this is the first one I've punctured!

Rich.
 
was an unfortunate end to a good day (was at park closing time so not a wasted day 😶 )

the rim suvived with a minor dink although possibly from a previous incident;) Nukeproof Horizon Pro wheels are a favourite of mine and seem quite resiliant(y)

as to sealant, begins with a p.......

and, yes, E-wild tyre. I like them and have worn out a few riding Bpw and this is the first one I've punctured!

Rich.
Ah! Puckoff.
Yeah...
 
So, what did I do to my bike today? Nowt BUT what am I doing to my mrs’s bike?

IMG_7985.jpeg

Suspension fork service, what’s normally called a ‘lower’ but in the case of usd forks like Manitou’s Dorado then it actually refers to ‘upper’ service 😜

IMG_7986.jpeg

Tools ready…

IMG_7987.jpeg

Tools used (& top caps / rebound adjuster and air spring valve cap as removed)

IMG_7989.jpeg

Oil drainage in action 😮

While they’re drained I’ll strip the airside to inspect and re-grease but there’s no reason to touch the damper 😎

Now to decide what lube to apply 🤷‍♂️





Then my pair are about due an inspection / lube, and my Mezzer forks, and……

Rich. IMG_7988.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Snapped the chain, accidently shifted up twice and went on power too soon.

IMG_451409.jpg


Lucked out as it snapped near the quick link and in such a way I could just reconnect use the quicklink and ride with a much shorter chain and avoid the big cog. Will add a spare quick link and chain breaker to what I carry.

IMG_1411.jpg
 
Fitted a heavier spring (550) to my Decoy MX in the never ending task of finding the perfect set up for my style.

Much as I love coils shocks, I wish the wife and I had air shocks as it makes it much easier (and cheaper) to set them up.
Also fitted a low friction WPS spacer to the wife’s coil to reduce binding when it compresses and ordered some Rev grips.

And swapped my Renthal Fatbar 35s for my old Fatbar 31.8s for some comparison testing.
 
After 4 years and squealing brakes on the Ballater trip scaring everything and everyone on/near the trails, it was time for new discs and pads for the Rise...

Uber Bike in Rotherham were the chosen vendor as I've had numerous pads from them over the years. So whilst I was changing I might as well up the rotor size from 180 (F+R) to 203 (F+R). I also put a bit of bling in there with light blue rotors, gold adapters and blue bolts with orange finned pads! :D

Before: -
Brake Parts.jpg

After: -
Front Brake.jpg

Rear Brake.jpg
 
A worthy investigation when you hear a creak like that. Any type of weird noise while peddling triggers my search for the source. Glad you caught it before anymore damage occurred.

Sometimes it’s not the cost of parts but rather the downtime …which could take months. Those brackets are notorious for coming loose and ignoring that noise or sound can be costly.
View attachment 156386
Sheared bracket bolts are almost impossible to remove from a magnesium casing. Thanks to the Motor Repair Centre a replacement cost my buddy $110. His downtime on the bike can’t be measured though.
I had same creaking issue when peddling hard. Replaced all 14 suspension bearings - still creaked. Found reviews like this on motor mount creaks so tried that next. I found that all of the bolts were still tight and properly torqued up. I did notice, however that the frame was rubbing against the motor housing (see pic). Looks like the original build had the motor a bit too far to the back causing this rub (and creak) between the housing and the frame under load. Since there is a bit of play on the bracket holes , I shifted the front mounts with these brackets adjusting the motor a tiny bit further forward. When re-mounted, the back plate screws are accessible so after bolting the front to the frame, I simply adjusted the back plates to line up with the frame holes. Note - in an abundance of caution, I also added some anti-seize between all metal to metal surfaces. No more creaks. So even if your bolts are still tight, look for this problem.

IMG_6679.jpeg
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    40,975
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top