Relay Tips / Tricks

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radchad

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Maybe a thread with Relay related issues and fixes? I also have a question.

Is anyone getting any creaks from the BB area, maybe the motor bolts? I am going to check this area out as a suspect to the noises I have.
 
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Yah, the motor bolts are known creaking items. The fix is grease/ locktight & the correct torque specs which could be a warranty item, but also could be completed at home pretty easily.

Also, if you remove the battery and look in the frame above and below the battery you'll all sorts of loose connectors and stuff flopping about. Zip ties and possibly some foam are going to be your friends here.

Here you will find R & R instructions for the Fazua 60.

 
In the process of rerouting the rear brake cable exit to the other side of the frame headset to have a clean moto style brake configuration. And while reviewing were I could add some foam to prevent cable rattling the view to the top of the motor shows quite a bit of space between the motor and frame. I think the motor noises could be damped by pushing foam into the free gaps; thoughts? The extra clearance likely aids in heat dissapation and insulating foam wouldn’t help this; but there are cooling fins on the bottom. The motor control system certainly has thermal protection? Anyway I do plan for some foam in front of the motor to reduce cable rattling.

IMG_4730.jpeg
 
I intend to get some of that very light grey pipe insulation and place the cables in the center and stick a piece right there when I get my Relay back from the shop for a motor replacement.

My App has had my motor temp at 113' when I checked it once (was in the middle power setting, undulating rough terrain so not constant power usage and it's very hot here currently).

Surprised that Transition didn't position the heavy battery lower in the frame.

Heck, they could have had a nice frame storage compartment in front of the battery if they had.
 
I had a bit of an issue with by battery cover flapping against the battery so I stuck a bit of window seal on the inside, solved that issue.
 
So my Relay was in for a warranty motor replacement and when I went to pick it up, it would not turn on.

The fault has now been traced back to a bad controller (the switch on the handlebar), so Transition is now sending a new one out. This was probably the source of the 3-4 random shutdowns I had experienced since new.

It stinks not having the bike, however I'm recovering from surgery, it's stupid hot, and it's not my only bike anyways which I have been riding a bit against doctor's orders. Too top it off I'm heading out of town for a bit. It'll be ready when I get back and I'm eager to keep figuring this bike out as I only have like 50 miles on the thing.
 
I think the shock mounts can give a clicking/ticking sound too. Noticed this went away immediately when I put on a coil shock. Was gone for a while, but after a big trip to the Alps the sound came back. Just removed cleaned and re-greased the fittings and it looks good again.
 
Was kicking around using a small zip tie to zip my cassette to a spoke. This would cause the cassette to spin with the wheel even while not pedaling allowing you to shift gears anytime that the bike is moving because the front chainring has a freewheel built in to it due to the motor.

Downsides include possibly being able to feel some motor overrun when you quit pedaling, and a fast spinning chain failing in some manner causing catastrophic damage as it comes loose. Every motorcycle in existence is built this way where the chain keeps rotating when letting off the throttle and it doesn't hurt anything.

Also the small zip tie should pop pretty easily in the event that something goes wrong.

Would test but my Relay is still in the shop awaiting a new controller.
 
Suns_PSD said:
Was kicking around using a small zip tie to zip my cassette to a spoke. This would cause the cassette to spin with the wheel even while not pedaling allowing you to shift gears anytime that the bike is moving because the front chainring has a freewheel built in to it due to the motor.

Downsides include possibly being able to feel some motor overrun when you quit pedaling, and a fast spinning chain failing in some manner causing catastrophic damage as it comes loose. Every motorcycle in existence is built this way where the chain keeps rotating when letting off the throttle and it doesn't hurt anything.

Also the small zip tie should pop pretty easily in the event that something goes wrong.

Would test but my Relay is still in the shop awaiting a new controller.
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Interesting, extra drag slowing decents? Wouldn’t suprise me to see this when e-bikes move the direction of integrated gearbox motors. The rear wheel will just be a fixie with a belt drive and idler pulley for full squish bikes. Moto world has long since been this way.
 
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Next issue was clean up the front cable routing, length and move it to moto style; front brake should only ever be on the right. Idea was from this sram vid . Used 18 gauge plastic wire clamps for brake cable stem mounts.IMG_4769.jpegIMG_4771.jpeg IMG_4777.jpeg
 
NoMaas said:
Interesting, extra drag slowing decents? Wouldn’t suprise me to see this when e-bikes move the direction of integrated gearbox motors. The rear wheel will just be a fixie with a belt drive and idler pulley for full squish bikes. Moto world has long since been this way.
Click to expand...

I tested it last night just on the street (it's currently about 115' with the heat index when I get off work, pretty unpleasant biking conditions) and it works beautifully. Basically just shift when you'd like as long as the bike is coasting. Also shifts are invisible and silent as the chain isn't under a load while changing gears. Even though the chain is moving more, I would expect less wear just because the shifts are so gentle.

Would I get more wear on the freehub in the motor? I don't know anything about the mechanism.

Of course, pedaling around on the street is an entirely different thing that launching off of a drop through chunky terrain. A little nervous about testing it on proper trails.

I reached out to a buddy of mine that owns one of the big players in the Hub manufacturing industry and we discussed him building a fixie rear hub. Lightweight, simple, cheap, nothing to break. Also importantly, the engagement between the cranks and the rear wheel would be better because you are removing one of the freewheels entirely.

Truth is, I'll probably cut the zip tie before hitting the trails. But it is an interesting thought experiment.
 
I did try the zip tie trick on a trail and I could see it being the future of e-bikes if they were designed around it. Fixer rear hub to save weight and all that, it removes a point of slack in the driveline.

But you'd need a freewheel in the engine that could take that sort of use, and an upper chain guide.

I dropped the chain as soon as I got to the drops and jumps. Started falling off constantly. 4x in about 1/4 mile. So I jumped on a road back to the truck where I had some dykes to cut the zip tie.
 
Suns_PSD said:
I did try the zip tie trick on a trail and I could see it being the future of e-bikes if they were designed around it. Fixer rear hub to save weight and all that, it removes a point of slack in the driveline.

But you'd need a freewheel in the engine that could take that sort of use, and an upper chain guide.

I dropped the chain as soon as I got to the drops and jumps. Started falling off constantly. 4x in about 1/4 mile. So I jumped on a road back to the truck where I had some dykes to cut the zip tie.
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Well after you described the issue it does make sense, the rear sprockets are now driving the front so the slack side of the chain will be the top with no means of chain tensioning. Good experiment though, always much to learn in the doing. Hope the chain drops didn’t tear up your frame too bad.
 
Two other points that were nice that if you push the bike, because the cranks are spinning, you already have a walk mode engaged.
Also the cranks spinning off jumps and what not should help keep the front end from dropping as power is still being sent to the rear wheel, similar to an MX bike.
 
Anyone having issues with the ring controller?

Mine has started getting stuck up or down after clicking it maybe 1/4 of the time. Forces the bike into boost mode if I don't notice or turns it off. Torque of the bolt seems to affect how bad it is but I cant find any torque that makes it go away.
 
I wasn't having any problems with mine but it was replaced under warranty along with my motor.

You probably should submit a warranty claim with your local Transition dealer.
 
The ring controllers position/command is just sensed my magnets; no physical electrical contacts. After one of my crashes it was sticky do to being full of dirt. A quick garden hose rinse out and it seemed to be fine.
 
I had persistent rattling noises even after checking several things.

So then I just grabbed some gasket sealant and squeezed it into the head tube cable ports right around the cables, and problem solved.
Bike is dead quiet now.
I really enjoy this bike a great deal.
 
Nerds On Dirt MTB said:
I had a bit of an issue with by battery cover flapping against the battery so I stuck a bit of window seal on the inside, solved that issue.
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Hi, do you have a picture of what you did please. I’ve just ordered a spare cover, so I can try and modify my original to make it fit better. Have already steamed cover and reformed to make it seal better. Battery still got wet after a ride though.
 
Suns_PSD said:
I had persistent rattling noises even after checking several things.

So then I just grabbed some gasket sealant and squeezed it into the head tube cable ports right around the cables, and problem solved.
Bike is dead quiet now.
I really enjoy this bike a great deal.
Click to expand...
I used sugru around same area. Similar fix.
 
Here's the list of things I've done so far- based on this and MTBR the bike is deadly silent

  • Added mastic tape on the lower chainstay to stop Rear brake hose/Speed sensor rattle
  • Foam/Pool noodle above and below the battery compartment
  • Velcro strap around the Battery lid
  • Opened zip tie in both internal cable routing entry points
One additional thing, was I needed to re-torque the non-drive side crank arm, seems like it either worked its way loose or wasnt torqued properly

@Suns_PSD- I was thinking about wrapping my cables at the entry point with Mastic/electrical tape, but was curious about your Gasket Sealant you used
 
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Not noticed speed sensor rattle.
I have steamed and reshaped my battery cover. I really don’t want to put a strap around battery compartment. Looking at getting some thicker foam as water still got into battery compartment. I wrapped all the cables in the void above battery with foam. I do like your idea of pool noodle though.
 
Poggs38 said:
Not noticed speed sensor rattle.
I have steamed and reshaped my battery cover. I really don’t want to put a strap around battery compartment. Looking at getting some thicker foam as water still got into battery compartment. I wrapped all the cables in the void above battery with foam. I do like your idea of pool noodle though.
Click to expand...

I've read that some users are adding rubber gasket/Window seal on the cover

For me, the velcro strap does a pretty half-decent job, it does allow water ingress but the amount that it allowed in after riding in the rain/snow + bike rinse was 1-2 drops on the foam...tbh I'm not 100% that it wasn't water coming through the drain hole on the lower chainstay
 
Poggs38 said:
Hi, do you have a picture of what you did please. I’ve just ordered a spare cover, so I can try and modify my original to make it fit better. Have already steamed cover and reformed to make it seal better. Battery still got wet after a ride though.
Click to expand...
I wish I did, but the bike has moved on to a new user, It was a strip of the one sided sticky window seal just down the center.
 
Bit of a PSA= if you've owned a TR before you know this, check your lower PIVOT Collet Bolt

Mine was loose and not torqued to spec
 
Hey Guys, new to the forum. Been on my Relay since August of 2023. Flew to Bellingham, picked it up and rode 5 days in the PNW and one day at Whistler MTB park. Been a sick bike, but like all my bikes, never without some glitches here and there.

TLDR:
When you pull the motor to grease the motor mounts, use Copper Anti-sieze instead of grease for longer intervals between re-greasing.

Regarding the creaking in the BB area. That's typically going to be the motor mounts. August 2023 in the PNW was painfully dry and PNW dust is super fine, pretty much just like Utah dust, just a little darker. The creak developed after about 2 months. Granted, two-a-day rides for 6 days in the PNW is more riding than I do in 2 months at home. But that fine dust made its way into the grease and thus the creaking began. I pulled the motor, lightly greased the threaded aluminum plugs, reinstalled the motor, got back to riding. Unfortunately, it was super dry at home as well and the creaking came back after about 3 weeks. Did it again just before a MTB trip to Peru but used more grease. Rode 8 days and about 83,000' of descending in Peru. Got back home and rode for about a month before the slightest hint of a BB creak started. As soon as it did, I pulled the bike apart for an overhaul, it was due. This time, I used copper anti-seize instead of grease on the motor mounts. That was early Jan. I've been riding at home regularly and have taken 2 trips to ride out of state since then. No creaking yet. ~Fingers crossed~
 
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