Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

thomasbran said:
@njatherton just a stupid question: if the battery has 360 Wh and you used your bike for little less than 3 hours with 50 W average motor power, why is the battery empty? should you not have used only 150 Whs (50w x 3 h)?

Can anybody help me?
Click to expand...
The motor power metric in the trek app is not accurate
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Hey all, been following this thread for a while and now finally got my Exe 9.8 GX AXS! Awesome bike, hoping it will replace both my bikes - Slash and Supercaliber. Will get back with some ride reports soon!

Could not find info from Trek or TQ, or on forums... The bike measures measure engine watts, but does it also measure my own efforts(in watts)? When riding, I do not get any watts for my own efforts. Do I need an additional powermeter for this?
Thanks for advise.
 
acoustic ebiker said:
Hey all, been following this thread for a while and now finally got my Exe 9.8 GX AXS! Awesome bike, hoping it will replace both my bikes - Slash and Supercaliber. Will get back with some ride reports soon!

Could not find info from Trek or TQ, or on forums... The bike measures measure engine watts, but does it also measure my own efforts(in watts)? When riding, I do not get any watts for my own efforts. Do I need an additional powermeter for this?
Thanks for advise.
Click to expand...
yes, it does measure your watts, you can have them displayed on the bikes display (just cycle through the various screens using the button on the display until you get to the power display), or you can connect a garmin (or otehr bikecomputer) to the bike and get your power transmitted to the garmin as a data field .

I dont think its as accurate as a dedicated power meter, but its good enough for an idea of your power
 
Mteam said:
yes, it does measure your watts, you can have them displayed on the bikes display (just cycle through the various screens using the button on the display until you get to the power display), or you can connect a garmin (or otehr bikecomputer) to the bike and get your power transmitted to the garmin as a data field .

I dont think its as accurate as a dedicated power meter, but its good enough for an idea of your power
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks. Guess something's wrong then. When riding, I get the bike(engine) watts, but my own efforts is zero all the time. Anyone knows source of this problem?
I did change to aftermarket E13 carbon cranks, if that could have any affect??
 
acoustic ebiker said:
Ok, thanks. Guess something's wrong then. When riding, I get the bike(engine) watts, but my own efforts is zero all the time. Anyone knows source of this problem?
I did change to aftermarket E13 carbon cranks, if that could have any affect??
Click to expand...

you mean its showing 0 watts on the bike display, or zero on your garmin/other bike computer?

Thats odd, sounds like a fault, it should display your power , changing the cranks shouldnt make any difference, the sensor for your power is inside the motor, and not part of the cranks.

If its not detecting your power at all then you'd expect the motor to throw an error because it uses your power input to determine how much power the motor should add.

Time to take it back to the shop if you're certain your on the correct screen on the display (I cant see how you might not be on the correct screen , but anyway.....)
 
Mteam said:
you mean its showing 0 watts on the bike display, or zero on your garmin/other bike computer?

Thats odd, sounds like a fault, it should display your power , changing the cranks shouldnt make any difference, the sensor for your power is inside the motor, and not part of the cranks.

If its not detecting your power at all then you'd expect the motor to throw an error because it uses your power input to determine how much power the motor should add.

Time to take it back to the shop if you're certain your on the correct screen on the display (I cant see how you might not be on the correct screen , but anyway.....)
Click to expand...
Yeah it's kinda odd... And yes its on the TQ display(did not connect my Garmin just yet). Engine works, so I presume it somehow reads my wattage/input, even though it doesn't want to show it on the display. Maybe the bike is just being polite, given my low efforts😂
Anyway the shop will have to look at it I guess. Thanks for advise!
 
Just got the coil on.
IMG_0141 (1).jpeg
IMG_0146.jpg
IMG_0141 (1).jpeg
 
Hi, does anybody know where I can find a 30T direct mount chainring that suits or a 104 spider (to put a 30T chainring on)?

Cheers,
Thomas
 
njatherton said:
First time I have nearly run dry. Pre-ride at 100% battery estimated miles was 42 but given the amount of climbing I did I am happy with that distance. I was in Eco 99.5% of the time with 3 very quick bursts at Mid to get up some steeper sections. 

View attachment 106780 View attachment 106781
Click to expand...
Thank you! That's helpful, for sure.
I'm 70 years old, in Park City, Utah. Almost all of my rides start at 6800 feet (2072M) and end at close to 10,000 feet (3048M). Most are also 12 to 30 miles. I'm 165 Lbs (75Kg). I've been riding here on these trails for 30 years and I was really afraid of not having enough range, but this gives me a LOT of hope! I also would be running low power. I just want to go from 90% max HR to 70% max HR on more of my rides.
Is that just with the 360wh battery? Not with the 160wh battery as well?
 
Last edited:
Looking hard at the 9.7 build. My basement is practically a "parts locker" for gear.
I'm inclined to swap out the wheelset with an i9 Trail 270 wheelset, which has an XD driver with a SRAM XO1 1295 cassette.
I could replace the chain (have a SRAM available) but I think the Shimano chain would be fine.
Anyone think there'd be problems with this? I think the way I'll ride this, the torque on the system (me + motor) will be about equal to what I put out now.
I also have a 12 speed XO1 shifter and derailleur.

This will be my first ebike.
I'm happy with the specs, but I hate to not use these components, since they're so nice.
 
Montana St Alum said:
I could replace the chain (have a SRAM available) but I think the Shimano chain would be fine.
Anyone think there'd be problems with this?
Click to expand...
On 12spd, the cassette and chain do need to be same brand. I don't know exactly why, but I have done all sorts of mixing/matching and that's the deal. I can also verify that shimano 12spd shifter/derailleur work with SRAM 12spd cassette/chain. Not as good as full Sram but certainly good enough.
 
Emailsucks98 said:
On 12spd, the cassette and chain do need to be same brand. I don't know exactly why, but I have done all sorts of mixing/matching and that's the deal. I can also verify that shimano 12spd shifter/derailleur work with SRAM 12spd cassette/chain. Not as good as full Sram but certainly good enough.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
I did go to E13's site. Their chainrings work with everything, so that makes it easy.
 
Canyon Shawn said:
Hey guys! What aftermarket dropper post levers are you using? I’d like something that can be switched with the OEM lever without changing the cable or housing. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I've used both Wolf Tooth and One Up. I think I like One Up a little better, but they're both good.
I don't yet have an EXe, so I can't compare to what's stock.
 
Hello everyone!
I've been the proud owner of a 9.8 for 2 weeks.
I can have additional pages shown on the display via the TQ app. Unfortunately I can only select one value (e.g. cadence). On Trek's default pages, it shows me two values. Can I adjust this somehow? I would like to have cadence and watts from motor.

Thanks for tips.
 
I put a new saddle on my 9.7 and I have the hardest time getting the saddle level while keeping the torque equal on both bolts. I’ve never had a problem doing that on my other bikes. I even put a little grease on the bottom of the cradle so it can slide easier. Does anyone know what those two bolts should be torqued at?
 
acoustic ebiker said:
Turns out this was the problem! I re-aligned cranks and now my effort shows correctly! Bonus is engine seems more synchronized as well😊
Thanks for the support, appreciated!!
Click to expand...
I’m having issues with incorrect rider wattage. How do I check to ensure cranks are aligned properly.
 
BenQ77 said:
Hello everyone!
I've been the proud owner of a 9.8 for 2 weeks.
I can have additional pages shown on the display via the TQ app. Unfortunately I can only select one value (e.g. cadence). On Trek's default pages, it shows me two values. Can I adjust this somehow? I would like to have cadence and watts from motor.

Thanks for tips.
Click to expand...
Cadence would be nice to see. Because, I notice on my 9.7 that the motor seems to produce more power at a certain cadence.
 
Canyon Shawn said:
I put a new saddle on my 9.7 and I have the hardest time getting the saddle level while keeping the torque equal on both bolts. I’ve never had a problem doing that on my other bikes. I even put a little grease on the bottom of the cradle so it can slide easier. Does anyone know what those two bolts should be torqued at?
Click to expand...
I think most saddles tighten to 8NM. I generally tighten the bolts down pretty snug to get the angle I want - maybe 5 or 6 NM by feel. Once they're that tight, using a torque wrench to tighten alternately front and back until one hits 8, then get the other to 8. That keeps it pretty much where you levelled it initially. At that point, I don't go back and check the other bolt. They can be off a little from one another.
The torque setting might be on the top of the dropper clamp.
 
Last edited:
I moved my controls around on the dropper side. I like my levers a little bit inboard, so I can hook the end of the lever with my index finger. So, I slid the lever assemblies in a little bit.
I moved the control switch to the left of the brake lever assembly tab and I moved the dropper lever bracket on the inside of the brake lever bracket. Then I ran the control switch wire on the inside of the dropper bracket so nothing can snag it. I think this will work better for me.
81DB5713-D06B-47C4-8611-43EB1D85B3A6.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    668K
    Messages
    40,779
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top