Working on Whyte dropper cabling?

Jamze

Well-known member
Jun 30, 2020
391
720
Oxfordshire
Going to try a different dropper lever this week, will replace the inner cable too at the same time.

For people who've had their bikes for a while, does the internal cabling move enough to let me take the seatpost out and pull the cabling through, or does it snag?

Wondering if it's a battery out/casing off the motor job to do properly? Ta.

* Ignore * Cable moves freely so job done ?
 
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highpeakrider

E*POWAH Master
Aug 10, 2018
685
556
Peak District
On my 160 it let me pull the post out of the frame, but it seems to be in a larger plastic tube that goes over the motor.

Why the need for a new post, mine was poor at first, I just used the adjuster under the lever so it activated the post as soon as I pressed it a milli or two.
 

Jamze

Well-known member
Jun 30, 2020
391
720
Oxfordshire
The TransX adjustable-drop post is great, it was the trigger I didn't get along with. With the brake levers where I want them, I couldn't get the trigger positioned right, and it seemed quite stiff to operate.

So I swapped it for a PNW trigger I used to have on another bike. Much better ?? It's lower profile so doesn't foul the brake lever and has a much smoother action.

PNW Loam.jpeg
 
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EMTBSEAN

Well-known member
Subscriber
Feb 20, 2020
849
578
Sheffield
Oh yeah I like PNW trigger, I’m going to check them out now, not cheap but they do look well cool
 

Jamze

Well-known member
Jun 30, 2020
391
720
Oxfordshire
When I got this one I think it was cheaper from PNW direct in the US than from a UK shop (even with shipping).

Got the position dialled now - converted that left brake clamp to matchmaker. Hate having any overlap of triggers with my grips.
 

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