Whether to mullet my Rail or not.

Doug Stampfer

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2018
736
751
NZ
Noticed this damage to my rear rim while getting ready to install cushcores.
I have been riding on it with no noticeable effect.
I am now wondering if I can use it as justification to mullet my bike.
The only reason I really want to mullet it is to stop it ripping off the klingons during steep descents.




IMG-1045.JPG
IMG-1044.JPG


Not sure what to do - whether to just install the cushcores & run with it or change the rear wheel. Any advice or suggestions?

IMG-1048.JPG
 

BrentD

Well-known member
Jun 25, 2020
168
133
New Zealand
Are you having problems breaking spokes? I have broken two in the last three rides on fairly mellow trails (Woodhill). Rims are holding up surprisingly well on my Rail but I have had Cushcore installed almost since new.
 

Philly G

Well-known member
Subscriber
Jun 29, 2020
692
517
New Zealand
Since you've only just noticed it, it must still be rolling OK! You could install the cushcore and keep going, you might get away with it for quite a long time. Or it might fail you in the middle of a ride, miles from the car. Unfortunately, those wheels have a reputation for being made of cheese. It depends how hard you like to shred! If it was me, and I had the money for a new wheel, I would look at replacing it. If you do, I'd be keen to hear how you like running a mullet setup! Is your klingon reference to do with the sound of the freehub?
 
Last edited:

urastus

⚡The Whippet⚡
May 4, 2020
1,548
993
Tasmania
bet your boots if you keep it, it will probably last forever :ROFLMAO:. I'm against changing the basic design of a bike - especially one that has reasonable R&D behind it.
 

Doomanic

🛠️Wrecker🛠️
Patreon
Founding Member
Jan 21, 2018
8,463
9,932
UK
Why look for an excuse? Just do it!

I mulleted my Rail but broke some spokes before I had enough time on the wheel to decide if it was better. I had the wheel fully rebuilt but haven’t had a chance to pick it up from the bike shop yet.

FYI, even running the flip chip in high I had to pay more attention to pedal position to avoid strikes.
 

1981Miked

Active member
Jun 14, 2020
94
118
Dundee
I found similar dents in my rim last week mid ride. Rode a bit more cautiously on the downs thereafter. When I got home I had a proper look at it, deflated the tyre, got some vice grips and a flat edge for the outer rim to brace it and bent the rim back into shape. Rode it again mid week and it’s fine. I would bend it back into shape and ride it until it fails.. but that’s just me.
 

Doug Stampfer

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2018
736
751
NZ
Good replies. The shop was out of cushcores so I ended up getting rid of the rim insert & tapeing the rim instead. The original plastic (rubber really) insert wasn't as thick as I expected but having the tape is more reassuring in case I burp the tyre I can now fit a tube in to get me home. For those that remember I had a real hard time trying to get the DHF onto the rim when new - well after a few months riding it just about fell off the rim & fell back on easily again. I guess they do need a bit of stretching when new.
SO the tyre held air well enough on my ride so am still unsure what to do.
I tried the 27'5 from my giant on & rode around the block. It felt a somewhat more natural position than with the 29 but maybe that was due to me being 20mm closer to the ground.
mullet.jpg


There is 40mms more between my arse & the tyre which is the good thing as it would stop the tread scuffing my shorts (& detaching the klingons Phil)
I can see the downside with pedal strikes which at times are plenty enough over our rooty trails but I was wondering more the rear wheel would get hung up on stuff more with the less rollover effect from the smaller wheel
 

Doug Stampfer

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2018
736
751
NZ
Why look for an excuse? Just do it!

I mulleted my Rail but broke some spokes before I had enough time on the wheel to decide if it was better. I had the wheel fully rebuilt but haven’t had a chance to pick it up from the bike shop yet.

FYI, even running the flip chip in high I had to pay more attention to pedal position to avoid strikes.
So you haven't had much time on the mullet or not much time on the 29 rear? I'm interested to hear if you get the rear wheel caught up.
 

Philly G

Well-known member
Subscriber
Jun 29, 2020
692
517
New Zealand
There is 40mms more between my arse & the tyre which is the good thing as it would stop the tread scuffing my shorts (& detaching the klingons Phil)
Nothing to do with Star Trek at all then :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: I would think the smaller rear wheel getting hung up on stuff would only be an issue on climbs, and would be less of a problem than with an accoustic bike, since you have the motor to help you out in these situations.
 

Doomanic

🛠️Wrecker🛠️
Patreon
Founding Member
Jan 21, 2018
8,463
9,932
UK
So you haven't had much time on the mullet or not much time on the 29 rear? I'm interested to hear if you get the rear wheel caught up.

1500 miles on the 29er, less than 100 on the 27.5. I’ll try to get to the LBS one afternoon next week to collect the 27.5. It’s got a better tyre on it for slop than the 29er and it’s
IMG_1835.png
 

Doug Stampfer

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2018
736
751
NZ
Ahhh however over here it's turning into Summer - long evenings with nothing better to do than bouncing off rocks & roots!
 

Billy Rail

New Member
May 3, 2020
20
6
N17 7BD
I'm running the Rail as a Mullet and I like it a lot. It does turn the bike into more of a shuttle bike as in for a relatively mellow ride the 29er is probably faster and slightly more natural feeling. Saying that I feel at home on the bike on downhills and I'm more of a down hiller so happy to compromise my riding position slightly on the hills. P. S. I flipped the mino link to high. Pedal stikes are same as before when in the low but with 29er rear.
 

Doug Stampfer

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2018
736
751
NZ
If I was to try my giant 27.5 wheel out before I commit it would just be a matter of changing the rotor with magnet attached? My giant cassette is 11 speed & rail is 12 speed. Would I be able to get it to shift smoothly or would I risk the chance of rooting my chain? I don't actually shift much any way & really only use the top 2 & maybe 7th as my rides are all grunty uphills & techy downhills without much easy stuff inbetween.
I will flip the chip & assess.
 

Philly G

Well-known member
Subscriber
Jun 29, 2020
692
517
New Zealand
If I was to try my giant 27.5 wheel out before I commit it would just be a matter of changing the rotor with magnet attached? My giant cassette is 11 speed & rail is 12 speed. Would I be able to get it to shift smoothly or would I risk the chance of rooting my chain? I don't actually shift much any way & really only use the top 2 & maybe 7th as my rides are all grunty uphills & techy downhills without much easy stuff inbetween.
I will flip the chip & assess.
The magnet is a separate piece, you can fit it to any 6 bolt rotor. You can use a 12 speed chain on an 11 speed cassette but not vice versa. Just adjust your limit screw so the derailleur cant move to the 12th speed ?
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,688
the internet
Be careful blindly following advice given on the internet. it's not always great.
Your Rail's 12 speed mech/shifter will not index correctly with your giant's 11 speed cassette. Philly's idea of simply limiting the mech not to shift onto the full 12 sprockets will work crudely but...
Not only is the 50 tooth 12 speed sprocket positioned slightly further inboard than the largest sprocket on an 11 speed cassette but spacing between 12 speed sprockets is narrower than between 11 speed sprockets. this means the 12 speed mech and shifter will undershift each between gear by a 0.15mm. Although not massively out that's really not something I'd recommend doing on an Eeb with an expensive drivetrain and all that extra uncontrolled torque. Not to mention the different amount of wear between the Giant and Rail's chains and cassettes.
You can easily get round this to try out the 27.5 wheel by simply also fitting the giant's 11 speed, chain, mech and shifter to your Rail.
 

Rosemount

E*POWAH Elite
May 23, 2020
818
1,718
Qld Australia
Or get a cassette tool and whip and change the cassettes ?
Less work than changing the whole system . Tools are always a good investment IMO .
 

Philly G

Well-known member
Subscriber
Jun 29, 2020
692
517
New Zealand
Or get a cassette tool and whip and change the cassettes ?
Less work than changing the whole system . Tools are always a good investment IMO .
Not as simple as that. Because he would have to change the freehub body too, because his 12 speed cassette is on Shimano microspline. And he can't change the freehub body because he has different hubs. Gary's advice is the best plan, not really as big a job as it sounds
 

Billy Rail

New Member
May 3, 2020
20
6
N17 7BD
If I was to try my giant 27.5 wheel out before I commit it would just be a matter of changing the rotor with magnet attached? My giant cassette is 11 speed & rail is 12 speed. Would I be able to get it to shift smoothly or would I risk the chance of rooting my chain? I don't actually shift much any way & really only use the top 2 & maybe 7th as my rides are all grunty uphills & techy downhills without much easy stuff inbetween.
I will flip the chip & assess.
If they're both the same brand maybe whip off the cassette and change them round. However yes not changing gears should do it. Would definitely need to take the sensor or the rotor off and switch it to the 27.5
 

Mteam

E*POWAH Elite
Aug 3, 2020
1,780
1,718
gone
Are you guys also changing the wheel size settings in the bosch software so that you dont end up with a lower speed when the motor assistance cuts out, or are you just putting up with it?

What is the new speed where the motor cuts out when you're running a 27.5 wheel?
 

Billy Rail

New Member
May 3, 2020
20
6
N17 7BD
Are you guys also changing the wheel size settings in the bosch software so that you dont end up with a lower speed when the motor assistance cuts out, or are you just putting up with it?

What is the new speed where the motor cuts out when you're running a 27.5 wheel?
I was told by someone else that it cuts out very slightly quicker. I'm not familiar with changing via the software and I have a Speedbox 3 so I don't worry about the limit anyway. Hope this helps
 

Doomanic

🛠️Wrecker🛠️
Patreon
Founding Member
Jan 21, 2018
8,463
9,932
UK
I had my LBS alter the wheel size to suit the smaller wheel.
 
Sep 27, 2021
10
3
New Zealand
Wheel size change is simple if you have the Kiox controller. It's in the settings menu. I noticed an approx 1kph difference in top speed b4 motor cuts out - between using the largest wheel circumference setting and smallest wheel setting with a 27.5" rear wheel.
 

EMTB Forums

Since 2018

The World's largest electric mountain bike community.

518K
Messages
25,447
Members
Join Our Community

Latest articles


Top