using normal mtb wheels (dt Swiss 1501)on a ebike
- Thread starter nobbyq
- Start date
of course it doesn't.
There's no such thing as Ebike wheels.
They're just "wheels" same as any other bike.
There's no such thing as Ebike wheels.
They're just "wheels" same as any other bike.
Nah. There really isn't
There's wheels branded as Ebike wheels to make them sound more attractive to ebike riders.
In reality. They are just wheels.
Ebikes don't actually need beefed up wheels
Rad people do
Heavy people do
Clumsy people do
There's wheels branded as Ebike wheels to make them sound more attractive to ebike riders.
In reality. They are just wheels.
Ebikes don't actually need beefed up wheels
Rad people do
Heavy people do
Clumsy people do
All Mountain Coaching
E*POWAH Elite
Gary you're just a leg. end. I love reading your straight up comments. Basically because they're to the point truth. 
Marke
Member
Maybe check yhe freehub type. You need a better freehub for ebiking, steel is better than aluminium? More power means the cassette digs into the aluminium?
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Jeff McD
Well-known member
This is quite true. When I bought my 2018 levo I also bought a specialized traverse SL 29 wheel set with an aluminum free hub and the individual cassette gears have gouged divots out of the aluminum free hub where are each individual gear in the cassette engages the grooves of the free hub. Sure enough the free hub body on the OEM rear wheel is steel when I put a magnet on it. Since then I have filed down all of the gouges and the free hub still works but I am being a lot more careful with shifting under load.
I totally agree with this one. Alloy bodys suck in general, on ebikes I need steel. That's the main advantage of getting an ebike specific wheelset, or rear wheel, they're usually steel bodied.
It's just a fact that steel sprockets dig into Alu freehub bodies whether fitted to a regular bike or an Ebike. There's no real difference in how badly it happens on Ebikes. However It does happen more easily and gouge deeper if the cassette lock ring isn't done up tightly enough though.
Every single Alu freehub body I've ever owned (lots) has had sprocket gouging marks.
Every single Alu freehub body I've ever owned (lots) has had sprocket gouging marks.
Marke
Member
My preference is too zoom around on my bosch powered bike in emtb mode (super fun!) I feel I'm putting much more strain on the drive train than a normal bike. My bearings have failed in 900km and the freehub looks a mangled mess. I thought I'd try a dt swiss 350 hybrid hub as it has a steel freewheel body and claims to have uprated bearings. Just food for thought.
Tim29
Well-known member
So i have been working for almost two years now on wheels.
Yes ebike spec wheel sets.
What makes them different.
There wider, stronger and have reinforced spoke centers so spokes can’t pull through the wheel as easily.
I made my own wheels as i have broke everything on the market on my ebike. I can’t remember last time i as much as dinged a wheel on my 26er,27.5 or 29er
Tq load on free hub is 50% higher on ebike, average speed is up 6mph. Average corner loading is up because of increased speeds.
But what took me a while to come to grips with is this.
On a 30lb fully suspended bike when you pre hop something and come up short the bike has no or virtually no human load on it as your body is in a hopped neutral state. Or your body weight isn’t on the bike, so when you wheel tap that square edge rock curb etc the wheel has the force of a 30lb bike on it.
Well when your in the same state the wheel now has a 50+ lbs weight on it.
20 lbs doesn’t sound like much when riders very 80+ lbs.
but most riders who are skilled enough on a bike at any weight don’t hit obstacles with all there body weight on the bike. In fact most impacts are bike only weight exp on landings.
In my wheel test i built a 5ft swing arm, and mounted a tire light nobby nic on 27.5 rim. 5psi pressure ,
So this swing arm is 5ft long so dropping it from a vertical plane to cement floor at 5psi there was zero damage, added 10lbs to swing arm and dropped again, no damage. 15 lbs the tire pinch flatted.
New tube, raised pressure to 10psi
Now the tire didn’t just flat at 25lbs weight the rim bent.
Fast forward through a few steps and at 30 lbs at 25psi could drop the tire onto sharp edge over and over and zero flat or damage.
At 50lbs it destroyed the tire and rim.
So there actually physics that show a ebike needs a stronger wheel then your clock work bike with the same weight rider and habits to do what you have become expecting of for years
FYI, even with cushcore there was damage to the rim at 30psi with 50lbs.
No damage at 20psi at 30lbs.
So there is absolutely a viable reason for needing a stronger wheel on an ebike if you ride hard and or rough trails.
As for alum free hubs. I have had the 11th sprocket strip the freehub several times now on ebike and before taking apart check to see if the lock nut was torqued to spec and it was.
I have also found that using a thick high psi grease on freehub before assembly increases the life considerably as it dampens the blow to the hub splines. As u can see that freehub doesn’t have a lot of miles on it look at condition off cassette teeth
Yes ebike spec wheel sets.
What makes them different.
There wider, stronger and have reinforced spoke centers so spokes can’t pull through the wheel as easily.
I made my own wheels as i have broke everything on the market on my ebike. I can’t remember last time i as much as dinged a wheel on my 26er,27.5 or 29er
Tq load on free hub is 50% higher on ebike, average speed is up 6mph. Average corner loading is up because of increased speeds.
But what took me a while to come to grips with is this.
On a 30lb fully suspended bike when you pre hop something and come up short the bike has no or virtually no human load on it as your body is in a hopped neutral state. Or your body weight isn’t on the bike, so when you wheel tap that square edge rock curb etc the wheel has the force of a 30lb bike on it.
Well when your in the same state the wheel now has a 50+ lbs weight on it.
20 lbs doesn’t sound like much when riders very 80+ lbs.
but most riders who are skilled enough on a bike at any weight don’t hit obstacles with all there body weight on the bike. In fact most impacts are bike only weight exp on landings.
In my wheel test i built a 5ft swing arm, and mounted a tire light nobby nic on 27.5 rim. 5psi pressure ,
So this swing arm is 5ft long so dropping it from a vertical plane to cement floor at 5psi there was zero damage, added 10lbs to swing arm and dropped again, no damage. 15 lbs the tire pinch flatted.
New tube, raised pressure to 10psi
Now the tire didn’t just flat at 25lbs weight the rim bent.
Fast forward through a few steps and at 30 lbs at 25psi could drop the tire onto sharp edge over and over and zero flat or damage.
At 50lbs it destroyed the tire and rim.
So there actually physics that show a ebike needs a stronger wheel then your clock work bike with the same weight rider and habits to do what you have become expecting of for years
FYI, even with cushcore there was damage to the rim at 30psi with 50lbs.
No damage at 20psi at 30lbs.
So there is absolutely a viable reason for needing a stronger wheel on an ebike if you ride hard and or rough trails.
As for alum free hubs. I have had the 11th sprocket strip the freehub several times now on ebike and before taking apart check to see if the lock nut was torqued to spec and it was.
I have also found that using a thick high psi grease on freehub before assembly increases the life considerably as it dampens the blow to the hub splines. As u can see that freehub doesn’t have a lot of miles on it look at condition off cassette teeth
No it doesn't Tim.
The REAR wheel is behind that extra weight the motor/battery has over a non Ebike. The forces that are SMASHING the rear rim into those edges you didn't have the skill to prehop properly are a combination of your speed and the entire mass moving forwards. Assuming you are still connected to the pedals and holding the bars It's no different than a 20lb heavier rider (or a rider carrying a large backpack).
Try to ride smoother. Or see my above post featuring advice for Rad/Heavy/clumsy riders. Pick a category (or more than one) and spec wheels accordingly.
It sounds like you are SMASHING your 200 wheels a year because you can't hop the slighty heavier bike as well.
Practice practice practice
Also WTF are you doing powering high torque in the 11T sprocket? Smaller rear sprockets are there to use for going faster*, not torquing the fuck out of. (*ie. speeds exceeding the motor assistance cut out)
Stronger rims with reinforced spoke eyelets are nothing new.
Check out a Mavic DH 121CD. the rims i rode back in 1994/5.
(apart from not being fashionably wide for the comfort cyclist they still hold up to DH use today)
Tim29
Well-known member
Gary, you really need to take a coarse in physics. You also need to get off the skill wagon bashing and the baseless bash wagon.
To be honest i quite tired of listening to your faceless baseless babble!!
You want to jump on bash wagon or bragging wagon.
I try to post real world testing and facts that a lot of testing and development went into and you reply with keyboard babble!!
So I’m gonna call you out big time.
Fact, i have 133 combine world titles, world records and world championships to my companies name and list of achievements.
2- i have won every mountain bike race i have intered in last year, 3 work closely with 3 top EWS riders who are finishing in top 10 in there second year pro.
4- have a degree in engineering and have more money in test equipment then you have prob made in your life time.
5- i don’t watch what people did, do or once did and make statements as to what people do works or call that proof!
6- you have no credentials to your name and have never worked with or for any factory or privateer race team.
So if you want to continue to babble and bullshit the people on here be my guest.
But if your going to blatantly say I’m wrong, you better have some real facts to back it the fuck up!!!
And stating your wrong isn’t a fact, it’s your personal bias untested uneducated babble!!
Take a coarse in physics, engineering, spend couple hundred thousand bucks for test equipment go do some testing of your own in real world and come back with a valid rebuttal.
But intel then blow smoke up someone else’s ass!!
I don’t get pissed off very often at internet keyboard jockeys, but your babble is as baseless and unproven of a theory as humanly possible.
If you New 10% of what you think you know you never would said half what you commented on.
if i had the skill to clear an obstacle. News flash, wheel tapping is a skill every top rider in the world uses in every two wheeled sport as it’s the fastest way through. Not easiest on equipment but if your racing or just speed enthusiast your always looking for a edge.
Example wheel tap the smaller obstacle to clear larger one.
I have never broke a part coming up short other then a pinch flat. That would be running out of talent.
But bulldozing a rock garden you can’t clear the whole section, so the rear wheel impact are gonna happen to everyone who hits them hard and fast regardless of there skill level.
As for the weight not being transmitted through the back wheel of an ebike, you couldn’t be more wrong. You want to do a easy test to prove just how wrong you are.
Hang your ebike by the front wheel then rotate bike 40 deg and put the rear of the bike on a scale. Then do the same with a clock work bike and tell me how many lbs more weight is on the ebike rear wheel.
But the battery and motor are in front of the wheel you say!!
Well there your test try it.
But before you try that simple test. You may want to have couple mates come over and help you! You have a heard time completing that test with your head so far up your ass!!
To be honest i quite tired of listening to your faceless baseless babble!!
You want to jump on bash wagon or bragging wagon.
I try to post real world testing and facts that a lot of testing and development went into and you reply with keyboard babble!!
So I’m gonna call you out big time.
Fact, i have 133 combine world titles, world records and world championships to my companies name and list of achievements.
2- i have won every mountain bike race i have intered in last year, 3 work closely with 3 top EWS riders who are finishing in top 10 in there second year pro.
4- have a degree in engineering and have more money in test equipment then you have prob made in your life time.
5- i don’t watch what people did, do or once did and make statements as to what people do works or call that proof!
6- you have no credentials to your name and have never worked with or for any factory or privateer race team.
So if you want to continue to babble and bullshit the people on here be my guest.
But if your going to blatantly say I’m wrong, you better have some real facts to back it the fuck up!!!
And stating your wrong isn’t a fact, it’s your personal bias untested uneducated babble!!
Take a coarse in physics, engineering, spend couple hundred thousand bucks for test equipment go do some testing of your own in real world and come back with a valid rebuttal.
But intel then blow smoke up someone else’s ass!!
I don’t get pissed off very often at internet keyboard jockeys, but your babble is as baseless and unproven of a theory as humanly possible.
If you New 10% of what you think you know you never would said half what you commented on.
if i had the skill to clear an obstacle. News flash, wheel tapping is a skill every top rider in the world uses in every two wheeled sport as it’s the fastest way through. Not easiest on equipment but if your racing or just speed enthusiast your always looking for a edge.
Example wheel tap the smaller obstacle to clear larger one.
I have never broke a part coming up short other then a pinch flat. That would be running out of talent.
But bulldozing a rock garden you can’t clear the whole section, so the rear wheel impact are gonna happen to everyone who hits them hard and fast regardless of there skill level.
As for the weight not being transmitted through the back wheel of an ebike, you couldn’t be more wrong. You want to do a easy test to prove just how wrong you are.
Hang your ebike by the front wheel then rotate bike 40 deg and put the rear of the bike on a scale. Then do the same with a clock work bike and tell me how many lbs more weight is on the ebike rear wheel.
But the battery and motor are in front of the wheel you say!!
Well there your test try it.
But before you try that simple test. You may want to have couple mates come over and help you! You have a heard time completing that test with your head so far up your ass!!
Sorry? but what does this actually mean?
And how are you claiming it's your list of achievements?
Well done.
but...
What races?
Where?
What class?
Who?
and you accuse me of bragging? Ok.
What?
I actually have but don't let that get in the way.
I understand perfectly well how to use a small hit to create pop.
But...
Newsflash: Not "tapping" rocks so hard your rim breaks is a skill required to finish an enduro race. Finishing stages is kinda a big deal for the overall.
I'm fairly confident the entire top ten EWS guys would agree.
Heavy/Clumsy/Rad comes into play again.
Forgeting calculations for a minute. The average Emtb rider does not need any higher level of strength in their wheels than they would riding a regular Enduro bike. A decently strong ~500g Alu rim, decent spoke count (32), good wheel build and appropriate tyre sidewalls and pressures is all that's required.
The average Emtb rider is also never going to race an EWS or WC DH.
We already have rims strong enough for both those competitions (and stronger than the average Emtb rider really needs)
That's my entire point here.
You going on about how many rims you (intentionally?) destroy with your state of the art "testing" lab is sort of irrelevant to the average Emtb rider.
Tim29
Well-known member
I was
For your handy capped acceptance criteria.
What does accredited world championship mean? It means i either built, designed and built the power plant- vehicle or was the athlete behind them !
You say the average ebike rider doesn’t need a stronger wheel.
You have a heavier bike by 30% and you don’t think the bike would become more responsive with a more rigid wheel assembly.
But you haven’t tested it so again you speak out of place.
Well here a news flash, the 2018-19 Fantic has been criticized and given low test results because of its wheel and tire combo!
If they didn’t matter why the test results from a wide range of riders rate the bike so low?
The average rider doesn’t need according to you.
But none of the test results agree with you.
Now for facts you never asked or considered.
I have broken or damaged 60% of my wheels in corners with over 30psi pressure. So according to your logic i need to develop skill to bunny hop corners.
Then let’s beat your logic into the ground.
Schwalbe designed a ebike specific tire, what’s different about the tire?? It’s between a DD case and DH case has tread that are double if not triple wide and it’s designed for the average ebike rider. If average rider doesn’t need stiffer why such a heavy case at 1300g
Are you starting to see the pattern in your logic yet??
Of course your not because it’s clearly not the logical path you been speaking.
Do you need a higher strength wheel, well to be honest we don’t need a bike, or an ebike if we want to use your negative logic.
But having replaced wheelset on some ebikes even novice/ just over beginner level riders claim to like the stronger wheel and no one wanted to ride the stock wheel set or preferred it over the stronger wheel sets.
As for me I’m done arguing with you as all i want to do is hold your head in toilet
Readers be ware, Gary is not an expert, he is a seasoned bike rider with a very narrow window of real world testing and one to ride any setup and adapt to its traits and then call them viable.
If it’s not his idea or belief your just wrong.
Example, every ebike that has a top rating has a 35mm or wider internal width rim. Gary says you don’t need wider or stronger rims, as he rides 30’s or narrower rims with 2.3 tires.
But yet no ebike has gotten above a marginal review with wheels under 35 internal and tires smaller then 2.5.
So every single ebike test in last year doesn’t agree with Gary and his setup
He also will spout out your wrong but has no data to back his harsh disagreement.
If your going to say someone is wrong!! You need facts to make that statement.
If you want to disagree with someone then you can state your opinion.
When you say someone doesn’t know how to ride based on fact he broke a wheel or they need more skill. Again speaking out of place. Proper response would be to question where and how they broke rim. I didn’t flat, i didn’t cut sidewall on a evo case tire but broke a rim. ( rolling alum bead edges inward, braking carbon bead edges off) but wheel is still true on the unbroken side. So please explain to your followers the Gary logic how learning to bunny hop a corner will stop you from wheel damage and improve your riding.
So I’m now going to leave EMT, people like Gary make it not worth my time to post about testing and development we been doing.
The moderators will allow people like Gary to badger and argue every single person who comes in here with his your wrong, u an idiot, lean to ride! only what i do is right attitude and he never once has any facts to back up his badgering disagreements.
Enjoy EMT readers. Peace out.
i was told you couldn’t argue with stupid, i see now that is sound advice.
For your handy capped acceptance criteria.
What does accredited world championship mean? It means i either built, designed and built the power plant- vehicle or was the athlete behind them !
You say the average ebike rider doesn’t need a stronger wheel.
You have a heavier bike by 30% and you don’t think the bike would become more responsive with a more rigid wheel assembly.
But you haven’t tested it so again you speak out of place.
Well here a news flash, the 2018-19 Fantic has been criticized and given low test results because of its wheel and tire combo!
If they didn’t matter why the test results from a wide range of riders rate the bike so low?
The average rider doesn’t need according to you.
But none of the test results agree with you.
Now for facts you never asked or considered.
I have broken or damaged 60% of my wheels in corners with over 30psi pressure. So according to your logic i need to develop skill to bunny hop corners.
Then let’s beat your logic into the ground.
Schwalbe designed a ebike specific tire, what’s different about the tire?? It’s between a DD case and DH case has tread that are double if not triple wide and it’s designed for the average ebike rider. If average rider doesn’t need stiffer why such a heavy case at 1300g
Are you starting to see the pattern in your logic yet??
Of course your not because it’s clearly not the logical path you been speaking.
Do you need a higher strength wheel, well to be honest we don’t need a bike, or an ebike if we want to use your negative logic.
But having replaced wheelset on some ebikes even novice/ just over beginner level riders claim to like the stronger wheel and no one wanted to ride the stock wheel set or preferred it over the stronger wheel sets.
As for me I’m done arguing with you as all i want to do is hold your head in toilet
Readers be ware, Gary is not an expert, he is a seasoned bike rider with a very narrow window of real world testing and one to ride any setup and adapt to its traits and then call them viable.
If it’s not his idea or belief your just wrong.
Example, every ebike that has a top rating has a 35mm or wider internal width rim. Gary says you don’t need wider or stronger rims, as he rides 30’s or narrower rims with 2.3 tires.
But yet no ebike has gotten above a marginal review with wheels under 35 internal and tires smaller then 2.5.
So every single ebike test in last year doesn’t agree with Gary and his setup
He also will spout out your wrong but has no data to back his harsh disagreement.
If your going to say someone is wrong!! You need facts to make that statement.
If you want to disagree with someone then you can state your opinion.
When you say someone doesn’t know how to ride based on fact he broke a wheel or they need more skill. Again speaking out of place. Proper response would be to question where and how they broke rim. I didn’t flat, i didn’t cut sidewall on a evo case tire but broke a rim. ( rolling alum bead edges inward, braking carbon bead edges off) but wheel is still true on the unbroken side. So please explain to your followers the Gary logic how learning to bunny hop a corner will stop you from wheel damage and improve your riding.
So I’m now going to leave EMT, people like Gary make it not worth my time to post about testing and development we been doing.
The moderators will allow people like Gary to badger and argue every single person who comes in here with his your wrong, u an idiot, lean to ride! only what i do is right attitude and he never once has any facts to back up his badgering disagreements.
Enjoy EMT readers. Peace out.
@Tim29 Please don't let 1 person ruin it for 100s of other people whom I'm sure appreciate your scientific approach coupled with obvious knowledge and wisdom, I do for sure. As a person who also have been "manhandled" by the the very same human I initially had the same thought as you, simply leave the community but decided to do other vice as 1 person should not determine my presence here or not. I simply decided to use the "Ignore" function incorporated in the software running the forum and I'm out of all the hassle dealing with annoying comments.
I'm really doing my very best to be polite to everyone but real life experience shows me some personalities simply are incompatible no matter what I do - I do accept the fact that it could be my fault but again, sometimes one are better off ignoring the bad for the greater good.
Please reconsider!
Karsten
My personal experience and opinion is the same as Gary’s. I need a wheel set which is appropriate for the total weight and riding style regardless of the bike type.
I’m swapping wheel sets between my bikes - regular and ebike - and none of them are ‘ebike specific’. The most used set on my ebike is with Hope Pro 4 hubs and 80€ Spank Oozy Trail rims and I found them absolutely bomb proof. Same with the other, DT350/Spank Oozy combo. After 4000km I’m yet to find a reason to buy anything ‘ebike specific’ for my Meta.
I’m swapping wheel sets between my bikes - regular and ebike - and none of them are ‘ebike specific’. The most used set on my ebike is with Hope Pro 4 hubs and 80€ Spank Oozy Trail rims and I found them absolutely bomb proof. Same with the other, DT350/Spank Oozy combo. After 4000km I’m yet to find a reason to buy anything ‘ebike specific’ for my Meta.
I tend to agree about that EMTB gimmick and then up the prize 30%. However I have found that especially rear hubs live a hard life on an EMTB as the extra power from a motor sure put extra strength on stuff.
This is the freewheel/axle from a Novatec D412 hub and by no means super high tech but considered a strong hub, on my Levo it lasted less than 100 km before the freewheel looked like this and the axle bend so much that the rear cassette was wobbling in a way that gave continuous ghost shifting in all gears.
Karsten
I have no experience with those but the axle shouldn’t bend after 100km regardless of the bike. Many ebikes are coming with cheap Shimano hubs and they last longer than that one.
My go to hubs are Hope and DT350 for many years and - apart from the factory installed cheap sh*t bearings in the last 350 hubs - I never had any issues with them even on the ebike.
mark1a
Active member
Well that escalated quickly...
Heavy/Rad/Clumsy
*delete as appropriate
Dude. you've posted pics of featureless hardpack trails where you've punctured/broken wheels. in all honesty I've absolutely no idea WTF you're doing. But the fact you. apparently a professional "mountainbike wheel tester" have no idea *how* you punctured does tell me something about you.
Please don't run around calling people "stupid" when you yourself can't string a coherent sentence together. (eg. I still have no clue what you are trying to claim with regards to World champions you're taking the credit for. Or who these WCs even are)
We simply disagree on the matter but you've taken it to personal insults and threats. I find this tact more than a little extreme. But I'm a big boy so won't lose sleep over it.
@Karsten. I actually agree hubs for Emtb use should be chosen for axle and freehub body strength and durability above all else. Hubs that fit this criteria already existed before Emtb.
@Tamas I've broken every single part of (various) Hope hubs over the years (I've owned well over 20 though and all have had a hard time and long service). None of which were fitted to Emtbs. Shit happens. hope Hubs are light and reasonably cheap for a UK produced part so it's to be expected really. I actually used to buy Hope partly because I had an account with them and partly because of their great customer/aftersales support. I no longer have an account and the support/service is no longer quite so great so I haven't bought any Hope products at all for a good while now.
@mark1a
Yeah... gotta laugh really.
This is my DT Swiss 370 hub about 500 miles ago after about 700 miles of use, its still going strong, though I did have to replace the bearings about 100 miles before these pics where taken.
My opinion is choose the wheel that suits the riding you do, I am in the camp where I see no point at all in putting carbon wheels on an EMTB, but I get why people do, and all power to them if they want to, but then again I am an ally fan, both for frames and wheels, as I would prefer predictable failure to catastrophic!
My opinion is choose the wheel that suits the riding you do, I am in the camp where I see no point at all in putting carbon wheels on an EMTB, but I get why people do, and all power to them if they want to, but then again I am an ally fan, both for frames and wheels, as I would prefer predictable failure to catastrophic!
2unfit2ride
Well-known member
Re the escalation, I always think of forums as like being in the pub, you will always disagree with someone but you can't just shout them down as you know it won't end well. Very rarely do you or your adversary resort to personal insults or a full on punch up, you just ignore each other & get on with your life, probably the best thing to do in this case as both make valid points IMO*.
* I avoid like the plague forums about what I work with as although I have over 30 years of experience in what I do there will ALWAYS be someone who thinks they know better & want to argue it, sometimes being the better man & not arguing is the way forward
* I avoid like the plague forums about what I work with as although I have over 30 years of experience in what I do there will ALWAYS be someone who thinks they know better & want to argue it, sometimes being the better man & not arguing is the way forward
Tim29
Well-known member
Thanks Karsten.
So I’m gonna clear the air.
Gary, don’t confuse a tire side wall cut on a keep trail as a wheel failure spot. That was a reference to how do you cut a tire on a trail like that??
You took it as a wheel failure. Not the case.
As for you what’s offensive isn’t the fact you agree or disagree.
It’s the fact you blatantly say people are wrong and you have no physics to back it up.
So i speak in complete sentences, usually not, as 90% of the time i only read my own testing notes and after 30yrs of that i have my own grammar and language. One of the reasons i decided to socialize on forums was to improve my ENGRISH. I TYPE in broken English and no other language.
So I’m gonna explain why a ebike specific wheel can be better then a conventional wheel assembly.
1- added weight, 2- wider x dimension on most ebikes which has greatly improved lateral stiffness in bottom bracket and lower chain stays. So you have a more rigid platform.
So with those two aspects having a more rigid wheel is warranted.
But it’s not mandatory.
I have 29x 35 arc. 27.5x40 arc,
Same in WTB KOM, Mavic 32-34. And a couple Chineese Carbon hoops.
As well as the factory Fantic 29x27 and 27.5x32.
With the wider stance you can side load the wheel more and get more deflection from the lighter skinny wheels and the bike won’t feel as stable or precise handling.
Do you prefer a wallowing soft feel, then stay with skinny sub 30 internal wheels.
But watch what happens to almost all the ebikes in next two years, there all gonna go super boost hubs. As the wide x dimension incurages it and the bikes will end up getting to rigid for most riders then they back up a step.
But the 29 almost vanished until the boost hubs revitalized then making them rigid enough for aggressive enduro or DH riding.
So basically ebikes don’t demand a ebike spec wheel, but is there more then snake oil to them.
Well a years testing and hundreds of demo rides all day yes.
But it’s still not a fact it’s a preference.
Gary spell it out for you clearly.
Regarding world championship, world record and speed records.
Either i designed the whole vehicle, built the power plant, designed and built the vehicle, or was the athlete riding or driving it.
I refuse to claim anything as a title if i wasn’t the lead designer, fabricator or rider.
I’m never gonna ride on the coat tails of others and claim a part of there program. Even if i had a significant involvement. If it’s not my design, engineering ,fabrication or i wasn’t the rider/ driver, it’s nothing of mine to claim!!
I build things like this
That’s 643whp. Unridable above 390to420whp.
And the ski is 278hp.
That’s my moto test track in my front yard
So I’m gonna clear the air.
Gary, don’t confuse a tire side wall cut on a keep trail as a wheel failure spot. That was a reference to how do you cut a tire on a trail like that??
You took it as a wheel failure. Not the case.
As for you what’s offensive isn’t the fact you agree or disagree.
It’s the fact you blatantly say people are wrong and you have no physics to back it up.
So i speak in complete sentences, usually not, as 90% of the time i only read my own testing notes and after 30yrs of that i have my own grammar and language. One of the reasons i decided to socialize on forums was to improve my ENGRISH. I TYPE in broken English and no other language.
So I’m gonna explain why a ebike specific wheel can be better then a conventional wheel assembly.
1- added weight, 2- wider x dimension on most ebikes which has greatly improved lateral stiffness in bottom bracket and lower chain stays. So you have a more rigid platform.
So with those two aspects having a more rigid wheel is warranted.
But it’s not mandatory.
I have 29x 35 arc. 27.5x40 arc,
Same in WTB KOM, Mavic 32-34. And a couple Chineese Carbon hoops.
As well as the factory Fantic 29x27 and 27.5x32.
With the wider stance you can side load the wheel more and get more deflection from the lighter skinny wheels and the bike won’t feel as stable or precise handling.
Do you prefer a wallowing soft feel, then stay with skinny sub 30 internal wheels.
But watch what happens to almost all the ebikes in next two years, there all gonna go super boost hubs. As the wide x dimension incurages it and the bikes will end up getting to rigid for most riders then they back up a step.
But the 29 almost vanished until the boost hubs revitalized then making them rigid enough for aggressive enduro or DH riding.
So basically ebikes don’t demand a ebike spec wheel, but is there more then snake oil to them.
Well a years testing and hundreds of demo rides all day yes.
But it’s still not a fact it’s a preference.
Gary spell it out for you clearly.
Regarding world championship, world record and speed records.
Either i designed the whole vehicle, built the power plant, designed and built the vehicle, or was the athlete riding or driving it.
I refuse to claim anything as a title if i wasn’t the lead designer, fabricator or rider.
I’m never gonna ride on the coat tails of others and claim a part of there program. Even if i had a significant involvement. If it’s not my design, engineering ,fabrication or i wasn’t the rider/ driver, it’s nothing of mine to claim!!
I build things like this
That’s 643whp. Unridable above 390to420whp.
And the ski is 278hp.
That’s my moto test track in my front yard
I think we are lucky to have members such as @Gary and @Tim29 on the forum, and I know we all appreciate the feedback and information they have both contributed on here based of their many years of knowledge and involvement in the industry, and if anything their little disagreement here has lead to some real insights into the tech and specs you should think about when looking at wheels.
I wouldn't take anything said when it gets heated on here too seriously, but its better if we can all play a bit nicer.
I wouldn't take anything said when it gets heated on here too seriously, but its better if we can all play a bit nicer.
Re the escalation, I always think of forums as like being in the pub, you will always disagree with someone but you can't just shout them down as you know it won't end well. Very rarely do you or your adversary resort to personal insults or a full on punch up, you just ignore each other & get on with your life, probably the best thing to do in this case as both make valid points IMO*.
* I avoid like the plague forums about what I work with as although I have over 30 years of experience in what I do there will ALWAYS be someone who thinks they know better & want to argue it, sometimes being the better man & not arguing is the way forward
Agree with you on this - I consider myself to be about the best at what I do in my industry, but also know that the longer I do it, the more I learn, and the more I realise that I will never stop learning. However my time in the job has made me adopt a my way or the highway attitude to others in the same field from time to time, and a very black and white attitude to the right way to do things, meaning I have had to learn to bite my tongue over the years, rather than get into a needless argument.
To answer the OP’s original question, my Focus came with DT Swiss EX1501’s and I have been running them happily for the last two years. I did swap to a SRAM XD driver from the outset so haven’t had any issues with the driver becoming chowdered...??
fos'l
New Member
I built a <35 pound rigid bike with GT Zaskar frame, Ritchey carbon fork, BBS02, Luna 52V "mini" battery and DT 240 hubs with 11-17-28 gears (all on the end of the cassette to keep the chain path straight) and haven't had any problems. Of course, probably I ride "too gently".
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