• Warning!!

    Riding a tuned or deristricted EMTB is not a trivial offence and can have serious legal consequences. Also, many manufacturers can detect the use of a tuning device or deristricting method and may decline a repair under warranty if it was modified from the intended original specification. Deristricting EMTB's can also add increased loads for motors and batteries. Riding above the local law limit may reclassify the bike as a low-powered bike, requiring insurance, registration and a number plate.

    Be aware of your local country laws. Many laws prohibit use of modified EMTB's. It is your responsibility to check local laws. Ignoring it, has potential implications to trail access, and risk of prosecution in the event of an accident.

    UK Pedelec Law

    Worldwide Laws

    We advise members great caution. EMTB Forums accepts no liability for any content or advice given here. 


Uncorking the Turbo Levo motor.

Tori

Active member
Apr 1, 2018
282
423
Australia
Well . . . today I felt the urge to move the motor-cutout limit slider from 25kmph .... to the maximum of 75kmph.

Wow . . . just wow. Not quite Stealth B52 speed . . . but I was sustaining 45-50 kph on the flats. Limitation is the gearing.

Phew. I shouldn't have let the genie out of the bottle . . .
 

Blackbird

Member
May 23, 2018
116
93
Netherlands
Yeah, the thing is you can tell yourself you are only gonna do it sometimes, or 25 km/h is fast enough but the truth is now you know how your, and every other ebike, should feel, riding with the limiter on is never gonna feel the same.
:)
 

Tori

Active member
Apr 1, 2018
282
423
Australia
Yeah, the thing is you can tell yourself you are only gonna do it sometimes, or 25 km/h is fast enough but the truth is now you know how your, and every other ebike, should feel, riding with the limiter on is never gonna feel the same.
:)
Limiter? What's this limiter you speak of? *scratches head* ;)
 

Tori

Active member
Apr 1, 2018
282
423
Australia
Now try it on some tight singletrack...
o_O:eek:

I plan on doing a video about it at some point; but on a part of the farm - we have plenty of riding areas here on private property so I won't be incriminating myself.
 

Doomanic

🛠️Wrecker🛠️
Patreon
Founding Member
Jan 21, 2018
8,476
9,948
UK
I wasn't having a dig, I think it would be awesome. When I did my blast round the FoD in Boost a couple of weeks ago I could have done with a bit more speed in places. I wonder who we have to bother to get the limit raised to 20mph? :unsure:
 

poppy

Active member
Jun 26, 2018
123
247
Gold Coast Queensland
Hey Tori, so with running the bike deristricted, how did the battery go charge wise? Did you ride it long enough to see a usage difference or get any sort of comparison? Does it change torque characteristics as well?
 

Tori

Active member
Apr 1, 2018
282
423
Australia
Hey Tori, so with running the bike deristricted, how did the battery go charge wise? Did you ride it long enough to see a usage difference or get any sort of comparison? Does it change torque characteristics as well?
Here is a link to the Strava from the de-restricted ride :

<iframe height='405' width='590' frameborder='0' allowtransparency='true' scrolling='no' src='Wallaby Rocks | Strava'></iframe>

Almost 65 kilometres . . . the battery died in the last 500 metres. I made very liberal use of Turbo as you can see from my average speed. I think this is pretty damn good mileage considering it was de-restricted.

Didn't notice a change in torque; it feels linear past the 25kmph. Bike is limited in speed by gearing, but I could ride 45 km/h on the flats pretty easily. A lot of this ride (above) was steep climbing, which brought average speed down a lot.
 

Blackbird

Member
May 23, 2018
116
93
Netherlands
The only thing derestricting does is removing the artificial 25 km/h limit. Therefore it cannot produce more torque. If you ride above 25 km/h wind resistance becomes a much bigger factor so the motor is working like it would on a mild incline. Since these are crank driven motors it does not make a difference if the outputshaft of the motor is spinning at 70 rpm on a incline while in 2nd lowest gear or it is spinning at 70 rpm in the highest gear going 45 km/h. The torque and wattage will be the same. (Rpm numbers and speed are guessed)
 

DEADMEAT

New Member
Jul 17, 2018
68
37
Hertfordshire
Just found this thread, i posted this earlier today on another thread, might be helpful.

Years ago i settled on 40 - 11 (3.64/1 Ratio) as my perfect hardest gear, ensuring i never run out of cadence on any of the fastest tracks i ride.
38 - 11 (3:45/1) left me a little short but improved my climbing gears when the largest rear cog available was a 36t, so i usually ran that.

The kenevo stock gearing of 32 - 11 (2.91/1) is an absolute joke, and the largest front sprocket you can get away with is a 36t, so i fitted one straight away. But with a highest ratio of only 3.27/1, it still leaves you spinning out if you try to pedal at high speed. Fitting a 10 toothed cassette in conjunction with the 36t sprocket gets me as close as i can to the optimum 40 - 11 configuration as possible at 3.6/1, and is as hard as you can go without resorting the the overpriced and apparently unreliable (not tried it myself) E-Thirteen 9 toothed cassette, the benefit though if you do choose that cassette is that you then have the option of running smaller front sprockets again, improving the chain/suspension interaction problems that are possibly created by using a 36t front sprocket.

Any effect using a 36t on the front has on the lower gears would be solved by fitting, for example, a Hope 10 - 48 cassette, the stock GX mech is designed to shift up to a 48t.

Lowest stock gearing at 32 - 42 gives you a 1.31/1 ratio, fitting the Hope 10 - 48 cassette with a 36t front sprocket gives a 1.33/1 lowest gear, so almost totally eliminating the problem of gearing up the whole system by fitting a 36t sprocket.

I hope that's clear enough, basically i totally recommend a 36t front with a 10 - 48 rear if you want a normal, adult range of gears, rather than one from a kids bike.
 

Allysnell

New Member
Sep 16, 2018
49
24
Winchester
Just found this thread, i posted this earlier today on another thread, might be helpful.

Years ago i settled on 40 - 11 (3.64/1 Ratio) as my perfect hardest gear, ensuring i never run out of cadence on any of the fastest tracks i ride.
38 - 11 (3:45/1) left me a little short but improved my climbing gears when the largest rear cog available was a 36t, so i usually ran that.

The kenevo stock gearing of 32 - 11 (2.91/1) is an absolute joke, and the largest front sprocket you can get away with is a 36t, so i fitted one straight away. But with a highest ratio of only 3.27/1, it still leaves you spinning out if you try to pedal at high speed. Fitting a 10 toothed cassette in conjunction with the 36t sprocket gets me as close as i can to the optimum 40 - 11 configuration as possible at 3.6/1, and is as hard as you can go without resorting the the overpriced and apparently unreliable (not tried it myself) E-Thirteen 9 toothed cassette, the benefit though if you do choose that cassette is that you then have the option of running smaller front sprockets again, improving the chain/suspension interaction problems that are possibly created by using a 36t front sprocket.

Any effect using a 36t on the front has on the lower gears would be solved by fitting, for example, a Hope 10 - 48 cassette, the stock GX mech is designed to shift up to a 48t.

Lowest stock gearing at 32 - 42 gives you a 1.31/1 ratio, fitting the Hope 10 - 48 cassette with a 36t front sprocket gives a 1.33/1 lowest gear, so almost totally eliminating the problem of gearing up the whole system by fitting a 36t sprocket.

I hope that's clear enough, basically i totally recommend a 36t front with a 10 - 48 rear if you want a normal, adult range of gears, rather than one from a kids bike.
I've been finding the same problem with my kenevo, that at a fairly sedate pace my legs are spinning out, which tbh is slightly annoying. Think I will have a fiddle and follow your advice.
 

DEADMEAT

New Member
Jul 17, 2018
68
37
Hertfordshire
I've been finding the same problem with my kenevo, that at a fairly sedate pace my legs are spinning out, which tbh is slightly annoying. Think I will have a fiddle and follow your advice.

I think shorter cranks will help too, not only because it'll improve ground clearance, which is an issue, but because it is easier to spin shorter cranks faster.
Even when you do get your gearing right you'll be spinning faster, more regularly than you would on a normal bike, that's just ebiking for you :) So fitting a shorter crank, on top of sorting the gearing, and using Blevo ;) will make your bike so much better you'll never stop smiling :)
 
Last edited:

Allysnell

New Member
Sep 16, 2018
49
24
Winchester
I think shorter cranks will help too, not only because it'll improve ground clearance, which is an issue, but because it is easier to spin shorter cranks faster.
Even when you do get your gearing right you'll be spinning faster, more regularly than you would on a normal bike, that's just ebiking for you :) So fitting a shorter crank, on top of sorting the gearing, and using Blevo ;) will make your bike so much better you'll never stop smiling :)
Ok that's some cool advice, excuse my ignorance but what's blevo?
 

Mike Smith

Well-known member
May 26, 2018
300
209
Derby, UK
Just found this thread, i posted this earlier today on another thread, might be helpful.

Years ago i settled on 40 - 11 (3.64/1 Ratio) as my perfect hardest gear, ensuring i never run out of cadence on any of the fastest tracks i ride.
38 - 11 (3:45/1) left me a little short but improved my climbing gears when the largest rear cog available was a 36t, so i usually ran that.

The kenevo stock gearing of 32 - 11 (2.91/1) is an absolute joke, and the largest front sprocket you can get away with is a 36t, so i fitted one straight away. But with a highest ratio of only 3.27/1, it still leaves you spinning out if you try to pedal at high speed. Fitting a 10 toothed cassette in conjunction with the 36t sprocket gets me as close as i can to the optimum 40 - 11 configuration as possible at 3.6/1, and is as hard as you can go without resorting the the overpriced and apparently unreliable (not tried it myself) E-Thirteen 9 toothed cassette, the benefit though if you do choose that cassette is that you then have the option of running smaller front sprockets again, improving the chain/suspension interaction problems that are possibly created by using a 36t front sprocket.

Any effect using a 36t on the front has on the lower gears would be solved by fitting, for example, a Hope 10 - 48 cassette, the stock GX mech is designed to shift up to a 48t.

Lowest stock gearing at 32 - 42 gives you a 1.31/1 ratio, fitting the Hope 10 - 48 cassette with a 36t front sprocket gives a 1.33/1 lowest gear, so almost totally eliminating the problem of gearing up the whole system by fitting a 36t sprocket.

I hope that's clear enough, basically i totally recommend a 36t front with a 10 - 48 rear if you want a normal, adult range of gears, rather than one from a kids bike.



Deadmeat, Does the rear freewheel need to be changed out to get a 10T on?
 

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