Tick tick!

[Mikerb]

I have my19 Levo Comp and just recently I noticed a faint "tick" sound on my bike which I have been trying to trace. Seems to be coming from the back wheel but I cannot replicate it spinning the wheel or turning the cranks on the workstand. It seems to quicken the faster I am travelling. It is quite faint but you know what it is like when you notice a noise...your brain focuses on it!!
I cannot definitely tell whether it is only when I pedal or also on the freewheel because the freehub noise drowns out any chance of hearing it on the freewheel.
I have removed and cleaned the rear brake caliper and even ridden the bike with no brake pads in the back to make sure it was not coming from there...rotor and wheel both look true. Checked the pedals and they are fine.
So I stripped off the cassette and checked the freehub/pawls etc. All good there. I could not strip the axle out of the rear wheel hub cos I do not have a 19mm cone spanner...ordered a set so that's the next job. I did just check the rear wheel bearings in terms of rotation and not completely happy with them. There is no play and they are not lumpy but I have certainly felt smoother bearings......so I am going to change them...and change them for higher quality Enduro bearings. They are on order plus bearing press tools to suit. So meanwhile I stripped and serviced the headset. It needed some tightening but the bearings are good so all OK there.
So some info that might be of use to someone:
Rear wheel hub bearings are 6903 LBLU. Bearings man advised me to get Enduro 6903 LLB bearings (I purchased from Wychbearings.co.uk)
I have ordered KIT 14 ( 6903) of the RRP bearing press tools but not the actual press tool since some threaded bar with a couple of washers and a nut will do the same job. ( Tredz)
Headset bearings are top: TH MR 121 1-1/8 45 x45 bottom: TH MR 170 1.5 45x 45 ( not purchased but Edgesports.uk.com have them if you need them.)

Any suggestions to trace the "tick" "tick" are welcome!

 

[cousin jack]

I have my19 Levo Comp and just recently I noticed a faint "tick" sound on my bike which I have been trying to trace. Seems to be coming from the back wheel but I cannot replicate it spinning the wheel or turning the cranks on the workstand. It seems to quicken the faster I am travelling. It is quite faint but you know what it is like when you notice a noise...your brain focuses on it!!
I cannot definitely tell whether it is only when I pedal or also on the freewheel because the freehub noise drowns out any chance of hearing it on the freewheel.
I have removed and cleaned the rear brake caliper and even ridden the bike with no brake pads in the back to make sure it was not coming from there...rotor and wheel both look true. Checked the pedals and they are fine.
So I stripped off the cassette and checked the freehub/pawls etc. All good there. I could not strip the axle out of the rear wheel hub cos I do not have a 19mm cone spanner...ordered a set so that's the next job. I did just check the rear wheel bearings in terms of rotation and not completely happy with them. There is no play and they are not lumpy but I have certainly felt smoother bearings......so I am going to change them...and change them for higher quality Enduro bearings. They are on order plus bearing press tools to suit. So meanwhile I stripped and serviced the headset. It needed some tightening but the bearings are good so all OK there.
So some info that might be of use to someone:
Rear wheel hub bearings are 6903 LBLU. Bearings man advised me to get Enduro 6903 LLB bearings (I purchased from Wychbearings.co.uk)
I have ordered KIT 14 ( 6903) of the RRP bearing press tools but not the actual press tool since some threaded bar with a couple of washers and a nut will do the same job. ( Tredz)
Headset bearings are top: TH MR 121 1-1/8 45 x45 bottom: TH MR 170 1.5 45x 45 ( not purchased but Edgesports.uk.com have them if you need them.)

Any suggestions to trace the "tick" "tick" are welcome!

hi. describing a sound with words isn't easy, but for what it's worth, only yesterday I laid my ht levo on a grassy bank and on continuing the ride it had developed an annoying "clicking" on rotation of the pedals. On turning the bike upside down and rotating the cranks I happened to notice that the chain guide had moved slightly downwards allowing the head of the chainring bolts to clip it on passing, this sounds like the sort of thing that you would have noticed quite easily, but I thought I'd share it just in case.

 

[Mikerb]

hi. describing a sound with words isn't easy, but for what it's worth, only yesterday I laid my ht levo on a grassy bank and on continuing the ride it had developed an annoying "clicking" on rotation of the pedals. On turning the bike upside down and rotating the cranks I happened to notice that the chain guide had moved slightly downwards allowing the head of the chainring bolts to clip it on passing, this sounds like the sort of thing that you would have noticed quite easily, but I thought I'd share it just in case.

Worth checking thanks

 

[steve_sordy]

A loose spoke?
It only becomes noticeable when you are sat on the bike and the wheel is turning.
Try pinging the spokes with an Allen key. That should detect one with less tension than the others.

 

[Zimmerframe]

I take it you've not been able to differentiate yet if it changes tempo with the bike speed or the chain speed ? That would help with reducing possibilities ? Like as Steve says, a spoke, or if it's with chain speed, a sticking link or a bent tooth somewhere.

Can you try mounting your go pro in different places to see if it catches the sound ?

 

[55plusmxinsanity]

Same tick here, rear wheel bearing disc side.

 

[Mikerb]

I have checked the chain link by link and feep cleaned it. Today with less wind I am pretty sure the noise was there both pedalling and on freewheel and whether I sat on the saddle or stood on the pedals. It also seemed to mr to be synchronised with the speed of the rotation of the back wheel. If I lut the bike on a workstand I cannot get the noise to happen.
Dont laugh! I used my phone handheld by my hip to do a video....but had the wrong camera selected!!! The audio is there though.

 

[Mikerb]

Dors not seem to want to load

 

[Nicho]

Dont laugh! I used my phone handheld by my hip to do a video....but had the wrong camera selected!!! The audio is there though

I take it you were trying to get to the bottom of it!

 

[Mikerb]

Same tick here, rear wheel bearing disc side.

Thats my suspicion as well. I have stripped down virtually everything else on the bike!! just waiting for delivery of cone spanners so I can get the axle out.

 

[Mikerb]

I ASSume you were trying to get to the bottom of it!

FTFY

 

[Zimmerframe]

Today with less wind

Hang in there, I've had the same problem with "lockdown" diet ..

 

[Mikerb]

Hang in there, I've had the same problem with "lockdown" diet ..

ha ha...……..if your lockdown diet is adding weight or slowing up your digestive tract I can thoroughly recommend Apple Cider Vinegar...…( Good luck!!)

 

[Zimmerframe]

ha ha...……..if your lockdown diet is adding weight or slowing up your digestive tract I can thoroughly recommend Apple Cider Vinegar...…( Good luck!!)

Not quite sure why, but I'm constantly hungry, eating lots, but loosing weight ... :-( I'm guessing it's trying to do the healing thing, but not doing it quickly enough for me.

We have lots of that in stock for the equines.... doubt I'd be allowed to steal it though, I'm an irrelevant human.

 

[55plusmxinsanity]

Axle taps out with the cassette no problem.

 

[Mikerb]

Same tick here, rear wheel bearing disc side.

How did you isolate it that? Have you fixed it? Im still waiting on cone spanners before I can strip out the axle but if you have replaced your bearings a few notes on how you did it and reassembled would be good.

 

[Mikerb]

Re other suggestions...I have thoroughly checked pedals chain and spokes. Im pretty sure the tick is there pedalling and freeeheeling and it synchronises with speed. I watched the Roval sticker on the rim of the back wheel as it rotated and the tick occured at the same place each time and also seemed to be on the downward part of the pedal stroke (suggesting perhaps the point at which some lateral load is applied to the rear hub via the drivetrain). So a hub bearing certainly seems a likely culprit.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Mike accepts no limits in trying to visually locate his "tick tick" .. whilst simultaneous using harmonic resonance to try to isolate the sound ...

 

[55plusmxinsanity]

How did you isolate it that? Have you fixed it? Im still waiting on cone spanners before I can strip out the axle but if you have replaced your bearings a few notes on how you did it and reassembled would be good.

I worked the spinning mechanisms toward the back. Removed the rear wheel and axle (with cassette attached). Sure enough the disc side bearing was notchy , drive side smooth. Bearings on the way, I’m going to replace both while it’s apart again. While I’m waiting for them, I managed to get some lube into the notchy not well sealed (sealed) bearing and put back together with less torque on the axle. Note: because I used less torque the axle could, will loosen while riding so I made a hack to keep it from doing so with Gorilla tape. Rolls better while I’m riding in the meantime.

 

[Mikerb]

Mike accepts no limits in trying to visually locate his "tick tick" .. whilst simultaneous using harmonic resonance to try to isolate the sound ...
Tried that....crashed...tick still there
View attachment 28118

 

[Binhill1]

I have my19 Levo Comp and just recently I noticed a faint "tick" sound on my bike which I have been trying to trace. Seems to be coming from the back wheel but I cannot replicate it spinning the wheel or turning the cranks on the workstand. It seems to quicken the faster I am travelling. It is quite faint but you know what it is like when you notice a noise...your brain focuses on it!!
I cannot definitely tell whether it is only when I pedal or also on the freewheel because the freehub noise drowns out any chance of hearing it on the freewheel.
I have removed and cleaned the rear brake caliper and even ridden the bike with no brake pads in the back to make sure it was not coming from there...rotor and wheel both look true. Checked the pedals and they are fine.
So I stripped off the cassette and checked the freehub/pawls etc. All good there. I could not strip the axle out of the rear wheel hub cos I do not have a 19mm cone spanner...ordered a set so that's the next job. I did just check the rear wheel bearings in terms of rotation and not completely happy with them. There is no play and they are not lumpy but I have certainly felt smoother bearings......so I am going to change them...and change them for higher quality Enduro bearings. They are on order plus bearing press tools to suit. So meanwhile I stripped and serviced the headset. It needed some tightening but the bearings are good so all OK there.
So some info that might be of use to someone:
Rear wheel hub bearings are 6903 LBLU. Bearings man advised me to get Enduro 6903 LLB bearings (I purchased from Wychbearings.co.uk)
I have ordered KIT 14 ( 6903) of the RRP bearing press tools but not the actual press tool since some threaded bar with a couple of washers and a nut will do the same job. ( Tredz)
Headset bearings are top: TH MR 121 1-1/8 45 x45 bottom: TH MR 170 1.5 45x 45 ( not purchased but Edgesports.uk.com have them if you need them.)

Any suggestions to trace the "tick" "tick" are welcome!

Reminds me of a noise I had a long time ago and went to Charlie Ralph ( Alves Framesets ) my local guru . I thought he was daft asking me to cycle along as he followed me bent over and listening but he found the problem .

 

[Mikerb]

I worked the spinning mechanisms toward the back. Removed the rear wheel and axle (with cassette attached). Sure enough the disc side bearing was notchy , drive side smooth. Bearings on the way, I’m going to replace both while it’s apart again. While I’m waiting for them, I managed to get some lube into the notchy not well sealed (sealed) bearing and put back together with less torque on the axle. Note: because I used less torque the axle could, will loosen while riding so I made a hack to keep it from doing so with Gorilla tape. Rolls better while I’m riding in the meantime.

OK...I am changing the bearings. The drive side was notchy and although the disc side was smooth when I removed the seal the inside was a bit of a mess.
For anyone self isolating and bored or thinking its time to service the rear hub and has no real experience of the job here is a bit of a guide:-
1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Assuming you are focussing on the hub bearings and not the freehub bearings, remove the locking nut with a 17mm open ended spanner. The axle can be held if needed on the disc side either with a 19mm spanner on the locknuts or a 12mm box spanner inserted into the axle.
3. The cassette together with freehub should just pull off.
4. Remove the brake disc.
5. Use a 19mm spanner and 19mm cone spanner to release the lock nuts on the disc side and remove them.
6. Remove the axle.
7. If you have a blind bearing puller that makes easy work of pulling both bearing out...each towards their end of the hub. Failing that you can drift them out with a flat edge screwdriver with some care. The wheel need to be supported on any device you can find or make that fits the flange of the hub but with a hole in the middle to allow the bearing to be drifted out. Something circular with a 40mm diameter hole is ideal.
8. Note the disc side bearing has an additional black rubber seal on top of the bearing seal. You need to remove and retain that.
Time now to clean everything. The freehub can be cleaned whilst it is off. You could replace the pawls and spring with a DT Swiss service kit for about £10. You can check the freehub bearings. If they feel OK you are ready to install the new bearings in the hub. I will add to this when I finish doing that and reassemble the wheel.

 

[Binhill1]

OK...I am changing the bearings. The drive side was notchy and although the disc side was smooth when I removed the seal the inside was a bit of a mess.
For anyone self isolating and bored or thinking its time to service the rear hub and has no real experience of the job here is a bit of a guide:-
1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Assuming you are focussing on the hub bearings and not the freehub bearings, remove the locking nut with a 17mm open ended spanner. The axle can be held if needed on the disc side either with a 19mm spanner on the locknuts or a 12mm box spanner inserted into the axle.
3. The cassette together with freehub should just pull off.
4. Remove the brake disc.
5. Use a 19mm spanner and 19mm cone spanner to release the lock nuts on the disc side and remove them.
6. Remove the axle.
7. If you have a blind bearing puller that makes easy work of pulling both bearing out...each towards their end of the hub. Failing that you can drift them out with a flat edge screwdriver with some care. The wheel need to be supported on any device you can find or make that fits the flange of the hub but with a hole in the middle to allow the bearing to be drifted out. Something circular with a 40mm diameter hole is ideal.
8. Note the disc side bearing has an additional black rubber seal on top of the bearing seal. You need to remove and retain that.
Time now to clean everything. The freehub can be cleaned whilst it is off. You could replace the pawls and spring with a DT Swiss service kit for about £10. You can check the freehub bearings. If they feel OK you are ready to install the new bearings in the hub. I will add to this when I finish doing that and reassemble the wheel.

Recommend some heavy metal music clears every tick tick known to mankind works in the car as well ?

 

[Mikerb]

Recommend some heavy metal music clears every tick tick known to mankind works in the car as well ?

Im into rock music but have an engineers ear! I would still be able to hear it as a drum cymbal in the wrong place!

 

[Mikerb]

Next step: preparation
1. Clean the hub with isopropyl alchohol and dry
2. Remove the pawls and spring on the freehub and clean. Clean the rubber seal on the shoulder of the freehub body. Reassemble and apply a thick oil or light grease on the pawls. If you have bought the DT service kit you can replace the pawls and spring and a small tub of specialist grease is included in the kit. The same grease goes onto the ratchet in the hub but do that after the bearings have been replaced rather than now.
3. Use some solvent and a wire brush to remove thread lock from the disc securing bolts.
4. Apply a light smear of .lithium grease to the axle and hub bearing seats.

 

[Mikerb]

Finish the job:
1. Apply a light smear of lithium grease on the bearings and install. I used a homemade press using threaded bar, washers and a drift to pull the disc side bearings into place on each side.
2. Refit rubber washer on the disc side bearing.
3 lightly grease the axle and insert it.
4 . Refit the disc side cone nut the use a 12mm box spanner in the end of the axle to hokd it whilst tightening the cone nut with a 19mm cone spanner. Adjust until rotation of the axle gets a little stiffer then back it off a quarter to half a turn .....then screw on the locknut with a 19mm spanner whilst holding the cone nut. Lock the 2 together.
5. Apply the same grease used on the freehub pawls to the ratchet and refit the cassette/ freehub making sure it fits fully into the hub. Rotating it anti clockwise help to get the pawls into the ratchet.
6. Refit the adjuster nut on the drive side. I tightened finger tight plus a little bit more with a spanner.
7 .Refit the brake disc using a T25 ....torque is 6.2nm.

 

[Mikerb]

Whilst the bearings needed changing on my bike.....doing so has not cured my " tick". Grrrrr! So the search goes on. Today having reassembled the back wheel I changed the chain and cleaned/ adjusted the chain guard. After repeated small test rides the only constant is that the noise always coincides with the same part of the wheel on the ground. In my case when the Roval sticker on the rim is at the bottom of wheel. That is despite the wheel being in a different start point each time and regardless what gear I use. So considering I have stripped virtually everything on the bike it now seems to me the noise must be being made by the rim or the tyre. No obvious loose spokes though and nothing visibly wrong with tyre.

 

[levity]

... No obvious loose spokes though...

Have you put a wrench on each spoke nipple and confirmed tightness?

Try tightening each 1/8-1/4 turn. Could be a slightly loose spoke nipple, likely non-drive side.

 

[Binhill1]

remember this one

 

[GrandPaBrogan]

Whilst the bearings needed changing on my bike.....doing so has not cured my " tick". Grrrrr! So the search goes on. Today having reassembled the back wheel I changed the chain and cleaned/ adjusted the chain guard. After repeated small test rides the only constant is that the noise always coincides with the same part of the wheel on the ground. In my case when the Roval sticker on the rim is at the bottom of wheel. That is despite the wheel being in a different start point each time and regardless what gear I use. So considering I have stripped virtually everything on the bike it now seems to me the noise must be being made by the rim or the tyre. No obvious loose spokes though and nothing visibly wrong with tyre.

Try this... start on one side of the wheel then do the other side. Locate 2 spokes that form an ‘X’ and with thumb on one spoke and fingers on the other, squeeze the two spokes so they bend slightly closer to each other. The point where the spokes cross over each other should move (rub) apart silently. If dry, corroded or loose, this action could create a ping or tick sound. Rotate the wheel and do the test on all the x-paired spokes.

If this per chance happens to be the sound you’ve been looking for, a drop of chain lube over the ‘x’ should get rid of it... OR get the rim alignment checked out or re-trued.