Thanks good to know. Its great having you do what you do. The end result is theyll build better motors as you discover the faults. I wish you continued spanner wizardry ?
STEPS E8000 Motor Service
- Thread starter SmokeyBear
- Start date
SEBA
Member
is the white molykote pg75 grease look like the finish line withe grease ? this one is really durable , very sticky , and smooth , it is teflon based with enhencement ; high pression resist and water ingress résistance
So many people make big mistakes with grease. I am sure that for some applications the grease you list is great! But try putting this stuff on a roller or sprag clutch bearing and the bearing will slip or worst still, slip and then grip, which can shatter the bearing. Too much grease or the wrong type of grease can be a nightmare as far as your high precision ebike motor is concerned.
This again is why we spend months and sometimes years sourcing the right and best parts to do the job properly.
SEBA
Member
yes OK but I cant find molykote pg 75
If you do find it, you will only find 1ltr pots that will do about 200 motors. However, we sell it in small quantities here: Gear grease for ebike motors -
SEBA
Member
yes I.saw this but you are in UK and me in France and there is brexit now and additional taxes , it is not really the price it is the post services and customs time eating
Buy it from our French partner then 
email Henryk at [email protected] I am sure he will be able to help you.
email Henryk at [email protected] I am sure he will be able to help you.
SEBA
Member
thank you so much mr bearing , but before I have to do a video of the noise , in fact if I turn crank forward it does a noise but there is no play. the noise let me think of some dry thing but not too much. no high pitch noise or clank disaster noise lol , so i.wonder if this is the start of bearing problem or not. if i turn rewind no noise dead silent. maybe e8000 do some noise by design ?Buy it from our French partner then
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SEBA
Member
too complicated to contact the.europe distributor in fact , I accepted his prices want to do bank transfer and he is always talking bla bla.too much for nothing so i skipped this guy
found 1kg of molykote pg 75 with someone else 15€ for a brand new 1kg grease
anyone with a video of how to open the motor case ? careful with something ? razor blade to open in the middle ?
found 1kg of molykote pg 75 with someone else 15€ for a brand new 1kg grease
anyone with a video of how to open the motor case ? careful with something ? razor blade to open in the middle ?
I just took my smallest flat screwdriver and tapped it in at the top with a small hammer, at an angle and near one of the mounting holes. I was surprised how easy it was to open. The glue used by shimano is very flexible and has very little strength.
Once you have a tiny seperation at the top, just go around and tap it open further and further.
There was no visible damage to the casing, even from using a hard metal screwdriver.
If you want to be more careful you could use a hard plastic wedge or something, normally used for opening things like electronics (laptops, tablets etc).
Btw, where did you get the molykote that cheap? The lowest i have found is about 41 euros for 1kg. And that does not include shipping.
Once you have a tiny seperation at the top, just go around and tap it open further and further.
There was no visible damage to the casing, even from using a hard metal screwdriver.
If you want to be more careful you could use a hard plastic wedge or something, normally used for opening things like electronics (laptops, tablets etc).
Btw, where did you get the molykote that cheap? The lowest i have found is about 41 euros for 1kg. And that does not include shipping.
SEBA
Member
it is all about chance , a guy who sell it in french website for selling things
does it absolutly necessary to put hylomar blue or loctite blue silicon gasket ? as it seems very sticky for future re grease , and seems to be not so sticky with Shimano material . i m thinking of double sided ultra thin thermal really sticky paper pad ( sort of silicon sticky paper )
The loctite blue can be peeled of easily after it has dried. So if you ever need to go in there again, its not too difficult to remove. I dont know about the hylomar, but i assume its about the same.
But probably any liquid gasket would do, like Dirtnvert said.
You do want some sort of sealant to make sure the motor is completely sealed from water and dust ingress. Im not sure if a silicon paper pad would be enough? I would personally go with a liquid type. Brush on carefully so you get a 100% seal all around.
But probably any liquid gasket would do, like Dirtnvert said.
You do want some sort of sealant to make sure the motor is completely sealed from water and dust ingress. Im not sure if a silicon paper pad would be enough? I would personally go with a liquid type. Brush on carefully so you get a 100% seal all around.
SEBA
Member
so dirt can only enter by the crank shaft
is there a way to improve the seal at the crank shaft ?
is there a way to improve the seal at the crank shaft ?
The crankshaft already has two commercial rubber seals that can be found:
** 25x32x4mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal Springless Design VC Style type shaft seal (garterless)).
** 35x44x4mm Oil Seals for Variomatic Yamaha T-max 500 Injection. It can be found locally in Yamaha motorbike stores or ebay
I tought that a way to improve the seal is to add some waterproof grease, like Motorex Calcium Grease:
BIKE GREASE
Grasa fluorescente amarilla a base de calcio con un rendimiento lubricante extraordinario y duradero. MOTOREX BIKE GREASE es una grasa altamente repelente del agua y extremadamente resistente a la presión. Ofrece mayor resistencia a la oxidación y muy buena resistencia al envejecimiento. Ideal...
motorex.com
Ant BearingMan confirmed that it is what he is using.
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SEBA
Member
The crackshaft already has two commercial rubber seals that can be found:
** 25x32x4mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal Springless Design VC Style type shaft seal (garterless)).
** 35x44x4mm Oil Seals for Variomatic Yamaha T-max 500 Injection. It can be found locally in Yamaha motorbike stores or ebay
I tought that a way to improve the seal is to add some waterproof grease, like Motorex Calcium Grease:
https://motorex.com/es-es/bike-grease Ant BearingMan confirmed that it is what he is using.
these rubber ring had to be replaced too ? or are they.non usable things ?
In this thread, the people that has replaced bearings have found the seals to be fine and they have not replaced them. So I'd say that you should replace them ONLY if you find them to be damaged.
SEBA
Member
fine means super sticky to the axle ? hard to move them ? like and skf spy join on a fork ?
I have not opened my motor so I do not know the answer. I am only getting my ducks in a row because I plan to keep my bike for as long as possible and sooner or later (I expect later) I'll have to change the motor bearings.
May be S3 can answer it.
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SEBA
Member
i just noticed that the 6805z is replaced by a 6805 2rs , I suppose thats for extra protection ? no negative side effect on friction ?
i saw in another spanish thread inspired by this thread that often the only one damaged worn bearings are the 6805 and 6808 , do I take an big risk to buy only these two ? did you noticed that all bearings are worn ?
i saw in another spanish thread inspired by this thread that often the only one damaged worn bearings are the 6805 and 6808 , do I take an big risk to buy only these two ? did you noticed that all bearings are worn ?
As I said, I have not replaced beaings and I do not have experience, my comments come from previous posts in this thread.
6805z has metal seal and low friction, but bad water sealing. This is the one originally mounted in the motor.
6805 2rs has a rubber seal that has high friction and good water sealing. So the motor will requir a little more power from the battery. Bearing Man, recommends (and sells in his web) 6805-LLB which has labyrinth sealing and these have less friction better waterproofness, although still not 100%
It is also recommended to change the 1 x K25x29x17 Needle Roller Cage Assembly
The small bearings (3 x 6900 ZZ Shielded Ball Bearing 10x22x6mm and 1 x 6000 ZZ Shielded Ball Bearing 10x26x8mm) are about 4€ each for a brand name bearing. People in this thread that opened the motor did not find them damaged and in some cases they were not replaced. So it is your choice, you can have them ready just in case or order later if you found them to be defective.
This is the kit sold by BearingMan:
Homepage - eBike Motor Centre (Performance Line Bearings)
www.performancelinebearings.com
electricbogaloo
Member
After 3000km I need to mount a new chain and from the drive side I hear the following noise and when holding the crank arm I feel a slight harshness compared to the other side.
Anybody knows if this is normal as new motors have this too or do I have to fit new bearings?
photos.app.goo.gl
Anybody knows if this is normal as new motors have this too or do I have to fit new bearings?
0 new items by Wir sing
photos.app.goo.gl
Doesnt sound bad as far as i can tell from the phone audio. Maybe im misunderstanding your description but all the bearings will spin no matter which crank arm you spin. It shouldnt feel any different spinning one crank arm or the other. I think youll know when a bearing is toastAfter 3000km I need to mount a new chain and from the drive side I hear the following noise and when holding the crank arm I feel a slight harshness compared to the other side.
Anybody knows if this is normal as new motors have this too or do I have to fit new bearings?
0 new items by Wir sing
SEBA
Member
if you need some molykote pg 75 send pm
Finally my "motor" noise was not coming from the motor but from the Rear Axle. My original Rear Axle broke and I bought a compatible Maxle, but the original one has a "cone head" (which is removable) and the new one has a flat head, so I transfered the cone to the new Maxle and it fitted perfectly. The only drawback is that the cone in the original axle was snapped in place with a rubber o-ring, but in the Maxle it is just contacting the flat head metal to metal.
So although the rear axle is not rotating at all, when pedaling uphill with motor ON or OFF I got the noise coming from the axle.
Bike manufacturer finally sent me a new improved axle in warranty, and now everything is fine.
Yeah sometimes those noises are hard to pinpoint.
Glad you figured it out.
So, new observation from my part. Ive done about 1000km or so since the motor revision, and over the last week it started making more and more noise. A bit like a whining belt sound, where the belt has a bad spot (the noise comes and goes about 4 to 5 times per revolution of the crank)
So opened the motor back up to see whats wrong. Plastic gears looked all fine and greased. The meshing metal gears of the 2 small axles however had a weird build up of black material. It seems the grease on these 2 gears had completely been burned and solidified. Because of this the gear teeth couldnt engage properly on certain areas of the gears and that was causing the pulsating noise. So did a thorough cleaning and regreased with a standard lithium grease this time. Not sure if this is a good solution, but im traveling and have no other option right now.
So im wondering, is the white plastic grease not suitable for 2 meshing metal gears?
Perhaps those gears actually require something like white lithium grease?
I dont know, i will see how this standard lithium grease works out.
Its weird that all the metal-to-plastic gears are ok and the white grease look fine on those. Its just that single metal-to-metal gear that is the problem...
Well, it was white, im pretty sure of that. But it could have been different from the plastic grease of course.
Who knows, maybe i didnt put enough grease on those metal gears? I didnt had a lot of grease because i was reusing it (i currently have pg75 on order). But still, it was the same amount as on the plastic gears, and those are just fine...
Ill do a bike ride this afternoon with the normal lithium grease (its actually a type of ball bearing grease, that was all i had with me), and see how it goes.
Who knows, maybe i didnt put enough grease on those metal gears? I didnt had a lot of grease because i was reusing it (i currently have pg75 on order). But still, it was the same amount as on the plastic gears, and those are just fine...
Ill do a bike ride this afternoon with the normal lithium grease (its actually a type of ball bearing grease, that was all i had with me), and see how it goes.
I guess this ghread would be the spot to post this. Ive been saying this should be done and theres definitely a market. E8000 to bafang adapter. Id guess he'll need to have a complrte system with the controller and battery and battery fitment for individual bikes. Thatd be pretty sweet to pop in a bafang m600 in place of my e8000
Shit its not posting. Its on the emtb forums facebook page
Shit its not posting. Its on the emtb forums facebook page
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