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Warning!!
Riding a tuned or deristricted EMTB is not a trivial offence and can have serious legal consequences. Also, many manufacturers can detect the use of a tuning device or deristricting method and may decline a repair under warranty if it was modified from the intended original specification. Deristricting EMTB's can also add increased loads for motors and batteries. Riding above the local law limit may reclassify the bike as a low-powered bike, requiring insurance, registration and a number plate.
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Shimano E8000 derestricting options
- Thread starter Gary
- Start date
got husky 350 & a ktm 990 for that.
These bikes are designed to give more than what they do then EU get their mits on em and spoil it.
15mph limit is shite, my local trails at hamsterly havnt enuff fall on them so pedalling the fat pig above 15mph has me blowing oot my fat arse.
20's plenty for the jumpy stuff but I assume you think because we're de-restricting these bikes we're goin out to piss people off.
These bikes are designed to give more than what they do then EU get their mits on em and spoil it.
15mph limit is shite, my local trails at hamsterly havnt enuff fall on them so pedalling the fat pig above 15mph has me blowing oot my fat arse.
20's plenty for the jumpy stuff but I assume you think because we're de-restricting these bikes we're goin out to piss people off.
Dunno about Canada but the USA is defo 20mph so more than likely north of the border too
Lmfho well you assume wrong, if ya want to risk warranty etc for a bit more speed that’s up to you, I’m just saying it seems a lot of hassle and pissing about to do it ..
- Thread starter
- #38
Which Kawa dealer is punting out 50cc bikes for £120?
Lol get you a fewarri if ya want one dodgy folk in these parts ?Abu Rahman.
he's got a shop in Durham market, round the back next to the bins.
They're actually kamazakis, chinkNick offs
Ok I bit there, but why'd y even go and look at a post you're not interested in or disapprove of ?
No fella ya getting me all wrong, I’m taking the piss regarding motorbikes, I’m just going off all the diff posts on what ye need to do for that extra touch, and truth be told once I get my choice of bike and try it, I’ll prob want more too. It’s like everything else that’s new and got limits folk want a way round it. Surely it must have affect somewhere down line ? . How would Levos etc manage when need updates ? Just curious
- Thread starter
- #43
maybe ask in a Spesh related de-restricting thread? Just a thought
Ouch ya got memaybe ask in a Spesh related de-restricting thread? Just a thought
- Thread starter
- #46
While we're talking about SHIMANO modding
What speed do your bikes stop assisting at?
According to GPS I seem to have managed 33mph at 4am while riding home drunk last night and the motor didn't stop assisting. That can't be right? Can it?
might try again sober.
What speed do your bikes stop assisting at?
According to GPS I seem to have managed 33mph at 4am while riding home drunk last night and the motor didn't stop assisting. That can't be right? Can it?
might try again sober.
Lol mate, I’ve just fooked up my yari forks messing around, I don’t think I’m gonna mess around with ebike
???While we're talking about SHIMANO modding
What speed do your bikes stop assisting at?
According to GPS I seem to have managed 33mph at 4am while riding home drunk last night and the motor didn't stop assisting. That can't be right? Can it?
might try again sober.
- Thread starter
- #49
Hope this solves your issues.
Funnily enough I've just silicone sealanted the plastic cover to the plugs.
Didn't bother doing anything to the actual plugs/connectors. I've never had wet/dirt inside mine and I only decided to use sealant since fitting the peartune as the top of the plastic has a small gap it didn't have before the peartune was fitted.
Funnily enough I've just silicone sealanted the plastic cover to the plugs.
Didn't bother doing anything to the actual plugs/connectors. I've never had wet/dirt inside mine and I only decided to use sealant since fitting the peartune as the top of the plastic has a small gap it didn't have before the peartune was fitted.
- Thread starter
- #50
@davosaurusrex
Cheapie Chinese NW chainring was waiting for me after I got home from today's ride. it fitted fine.
When fitted there's ample clearance at the chainstay but very minimal clearance for the rear mech cable where it comes out and into the BB/motor area. I suppose a work around this would be to re-route it along the outside of the chainstay if you wanted to run a 38T ring. (I think there'd 'just' be room).
annoyingly the shimano top guide only has mounting positions for 34 or 38T so needs to be in the 38T setting meaning there's more top gap than ideal but TBH I can't see it being a huge problem. (I might actually cut a slither of mastik and put it in there to fill the space and also quieten any chatter there may be from chain bounce.
Anyway I haven't ridden with it yet so will post again if there's anything else worth saying about it once I have.
Due to treefall from today's storm completely blocking a climb I ended up having to ride back from Peebles to Glentress on the main road this afternoon and was spinning along at 30mph fairly easily with the 34T so for me a 36T is not really needed but if nothing else the 36T should save using the 13 & 11T sprockets so much off-road
Cheapie Chinese NW chainring was waiting for me after I got home from today's ride. it fitted fine.
When fitted there's ample clearance at the chainstay but very minimal clearance for the rear mech cable where it comes out and into the BB/motor area. I suppose a work around this would be to re-route it along the outside of the chainstay if you wanted to run a 38T ring. (I think there'd 'just' be room).
annoyingly the shimano top guide only has mounting positions for 34 or 38T so needs to be in the 38T setting meaning there's more top gap than ideal but TBH I can't see it being a huge problem. (I might actually cut a slither of mastik and put it in there to fill the space and also quieten any chatter there may be from chain bounce.
Anyway I haven't ridden with it yet so will post again if there's anything else worth saying about it once I have.
Due to treefall from today's storm completely blocking a climb I ended up having to ride back from Peebles to Glentress on the main road this afternoon and was spinning along at 30mph fairly easily with the 34T so for me a 36T is not really needed but if nothing else the 36T should save using the 13 & 11T sprockets so much off-road
- Thread starter
- #51
Depends on your definition of going like the clappers.
My max (peak) cadence on my roadbike is over 240rpm and I can hold 160+ no problem
30mph on 34/11 is only 120rpm
I'm fairly sure the motor cuts assistance somewhere between 130-140 this (and wind resistance) would be the limiting factor, not my ability to spin
My max (peak) cadence on my roadbike is over 240rpm and I can hold 160+ no problem
30mph on 34/11 is only 120rpm
I'm fairly sure the motor cuts assistance somewhere between 130-140 this (and wind resistance) would be the limiting factor, not my ability to spin
I was expecting an answer along those lines.....
- Thread starter
- #53
Happy not to disappoint.
Been out for a quick local spin today on the 36T
It's better. I'm no longer in the smallest two sprockets as often (it's fairly flat round here)
I tested out the max speed assistance and it definitely seems to keep assisting when the display reads 16mph. (weird). I was on a flat road but it is blustery as hell today so wind drag was pretty bad but according to GPS (on the bars) I was hovering around the 33mph mark. Will no doubt try again at some point in better conditions. Maybe with 60psi, my skinsuit on and tri bars and possibly drafting a bus/tractor
As Kernow had said the 36T solved the intermittent cutting out he had after fitting his peartune I tried boost and trail in the lowest two gears (37t and 42t) where they would cause cutting out previously with the 34T ring and the 36T does indeed seem to solve the problem. When pedalling at a decent cadence it no longer seems to cut out. when riding really slowly (fairly soft pedalling it still does cut out earlier than before derestriction possibly just due to imput lag) I only climbed one steep hill (well a steep very narrow path next to a staircase up to an old railway line). with decent torque and fairly slow cadence it didn't cut out. This isn't really a true test as I can get a normal bike up this but it is about the limit of what a normal bike will climb and for all I know it may still be a problem on properly slow steep proper off road climbs (I don't really do many of those though). This solution really does confuse me as it doesn't seem to be entirely down to gearing (36/42 being a lower gear than 34/37 which caused the problem before) Maybe it's something to do with the Shimano system being designed to run 34 or 38T rings, who knows but it worked so I'm not complaining. Thanks for sharing the tip Kernow.
Been out for a quick local spin today on the 36T
It's better. I'm no longer in the smallest two sprockets as often (it's fairly flat round here)
I tested out the max speed assistance and it definitely seems to keep assisting when the display reads 16mph. (weird). I was on a flat road but it is blustery as hell today so wind drag was pretty bad but according to GPS (on the bars) I was hovering around the 33mph mark. Will no doubt try again at some point in better conditions. Maybe with 60psi, my skinsuit on and tri bars and possibly drafting a bus/tractor
As Kernow had said the 36T solved the intermittent cutting out he had after fitting his peartune I tried boost and trail in the lowest two gears (37t and 42t) where they would cause cutting out previously with the 34T ring and the 36T does indeed seem to solve the problem. When pedalling at a decent cadence it no longer seems to cut out. when riding really slowly (fairly soft pedalling it still does cut out earlier than before derestriction possibly just due to imput lag) I only climbed one steep hill (well a steep very narrow path next to a staircase up to an old railway line). with decent torque and fairly slow cadence it didn't cut out. This isn't really a true test as I can get a normal bike up this but it is about the limit of what a normal bike will climb and for all I know it may still be a problem on properly slow steep proper off road climbs (I don't really do many of those though). This solution really does confuse me as it doesn't seem to be entirely down to gearing (36/42 being a lower gear than 34/37 which caused the problem before) Maybe it's something to do with the Shimano system being designed to run 34 or 38T rings, who knows but it worked so I'm not complaining. Thanks for sharing the tip Kernow.
My Snail chainring turned up yesterday, I do love the Chinglish!
Last edited:
So did Peartune warranty the two that went pop?
- Thread starter
- #58
I didn't silicone the chain device. I cut a slither of Mastic 2228 and fitted it to the underneath of the top channel to fill in a little of the the extra height running it in the 38T position created and reduce the chance of deraillment from chain bounce..
I also replaced the rubber on the entry bar CRC FUCKING LOST with rubbber self amalgamating tape.
#SilenceisGoldenGolden
That's her, very responsive , think she's on lamp lovers aswell
I know but same idea, I just don't have any mastic tape at the moment. Will have to see how the silicone lasts, chain may well just rip it up
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