Levo SL Gen 1 Removing dropper post from Levo SL

LawPrawf

Member
Jul 29, 2021
3
4
Southern California
I'm going to be replacing the X-Fusion Manic dropper post in my Levo SL Expert with a Reverb AXS. Are there are any tweaks or surprises involved with removing the dropper post? I've seen some posts about dropper post cable routing in the Levo, but no posts about the Levo SL.
Thanks.
 

CjP

PRIME TIME
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Jan 1, 2019
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Should pull right out. In case it doesn’t or there’s a lot of tension, at the entry point into the frame there’s a plastic sleeve that has a screw in it which clamps the cables/sleeve.
 

KSL

Member
Jul 10, 2021
186
82
SoCal
Should pull right out. In case it doesn’t or there’s a lot of tension, at the entry point into the frame there’s a plastic sleeve that has a screw in it which clamps the cables/sleeve.

I'm also interested in inserting a new dropper on my Kenevo SL. I started to pull out the existing post, and it moved freely, but I stopped short of pulling it out completely. The dropper lever stopped working for a few moments when I was fiddling with the dropper. That said, is it as simple as pulling out the old, disconnecting the cable, and inserting the new dropper - while reconnecting the cable?
 
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CjP

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I'm also interested in inserting a new dropper on my Kenevo SL. I started to pull out the existing post, and it moved freely, but I stopped short of pulling it out completely. The dropper lever stopped working for a few moments when I was fiddling with the dropper. That said, is it as simple as pulling out the old, disconnecting the cable, and inserting the new dropper - while reconnecting the cable?
Well I’m running AXS so I just yanked the cable and sleeve out. Little bit of tension but didn’t catch on anything. There is a sleeve in the carbon above the battery for the cables so threading a new one would be difficult with the motor still in. Good news is the motor is super easy to come out, easier than the Levo SL.
Otherwise re using the standard cable for new post, I would assume they are universal but I’ve only ever used two cable droppers in my life so I’m no expert.
 
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toublanc

Member
May 18, 2021
39
30
Poland
If you want make sure you’ll get the job done use internal routing tool eg. this one. Any other brand will also do the trick.
All you need is a proper order
- push the cable into the frame just enough to let the seatpost out of the seat tube,
- take the seatpost out, leave the cable in the frame
- attach the tool to one of the ends (usually you should use handlebar side)
- pull the tool into the frame
- disconnect the old cable and connect a new one
- pull the new cable in using the tool

Easy and safe, 15 min job. Its even more simple if you plan to use AXS - no new cable :)
 

KSL

Member
Jul 10, 2021
186
82
SoCal
If you want make sure you’ll get the job done use internal routing tool eg. this one. Any other brand will also do the trick.
All you need is a proper order
- push the cable into the frame just enough to let the seatpost out of the seat tube,
- take the seatpost out, leave the cable in the frame
- attach the tool to one of the ends (usually you should use handlebar side)
- pull the tool into the frame
- disconnect the old cable and connect a new one
- pull the new cable in using the tool

Easy and safe, 15 min job. Its even more simple if you plan to use AXS - no new cable :)

Thx, but the only part that I don't understand is why the need for the "tool" at all if I'm re-using the existing cable/housing? It would seem I could just push the existing cable/housing in a bit when removing the existing dropper, then re-connect to the new one as long as the housing or cable doesn't push completely into the frame? Or are you suggesting this project isn't possible without using the tool?
 

Konanige

Active member
Feb 29, 2020
422
336
Mendips
No need for a tool the cable is sleeved all the way. Just pull out old dropper, disconnect cable, pull old cable out then push new cable back in at headtube port. 10 min job or longer if you phaff about with an internal cable tool. Don't undo grub screw at headtube en
 
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KSL

Member
Jul 10, 2021
186
82
SoCal
No need for a tool the cable is sleeved all the way. Just pull out old dropper, disconnect cable, pull old cable out then push new cable back in at headtube port. 10 min job or longer if you phaff about with an internal cable tool. Don't undo grub screw at headtube en

New cable is needed? Can't I simply use the existing and reconnect it to the new post?
 

toublanc

Member
May 18, 2021
39
30
Poland
Thx, but the only part that I don't understand is why the need for the "tool" at all if I'm re-using the existing cable/housing? It would seem I could just push the existing cable/housing in a bit when removing the existing dropper, then re-connect to the new one as long as the housing or cable doesn't push completely into the frame? Or are you suggesting this project isn't possible without using the tool?

You can reuse the cable, but since you already look into this I believe it’s not a bad idea to do it all at one go. Of course if you feel it not needed you don’t have to.
 

KSL

Member
Jul 10, 2021
186
82
SoCal
If the new post has the same type of fitting at its base then just change the post!

I really have no way of knowing if the fittings are the same unless I remove it, which I'm reluctant to do since I've never done it before. There's some HW with my new OneUp post, but no idea how to install it or what a bunch of small brass rollers included are for. Honestly, I'm mechanically inclinded, but this is new to me.
 

Konanige

Active member
Feb 29, 2020
422
336
Mendips
I really have no way of knowing if the fittings are the same unless I remove it, which I'm reluctant to do since I've never done it before. There's some HW with my new OneUp post, but no idea how to install it or what a bunch of small brass rollers included are for. Honestly, I'm mechanically inclinded, but this is new to me.
Take the existing barrel nut off your cable, put on the one supplied by One up. Small brass rollers are for adjusting the travel on the post. Should be a doddle.
 

KSL

Member
Jul 10, 2021
186
82
SoCal
Take the existing barrel nut off your cable, put on the one supplied by One up. Small brass rollers are for adjusting the travel on the post. Should be a doddle.

Yup, it seems OneUp uses a smaller barrel nut, but the one supplied has no way of connecting it to the cable.....meaning, its a barrel nut with a hole in it...Nothing to tighten to hold it on to the cable. And I assume I'd simply cut the existing barrel nut off the cable?
 

KSL

Member
Jul 10, 2021
186
82
SoCal
Take the existing barrel nut off your cable, put on the one supplied by One up. Small brass rollers are for adjusting the travel on the post. Should be a doddle.
nope..The barrel nut on the cable is held on via a screw. I removed it, but this new barrel is smaller - barely looks like the cable will even fit and will require trimming the fray at a min. This new OneUp barrel is needed by the post as the existing one that came with the bike is too wide to work. The problem at the moment is figuring out how to get this new OneUp barrel to hold on the cable? There's nothing to tighten it down like what I removed.
 
Last edited:

Konanige

Active member
Feb 29, 2020
422
336
Mendips
Yup, it seems OneUp uses a smaller barrel nut, but the one supplied has no way of connecting it to the cable.....meaning, its a barrel nut with a hole in it...Nothing to tighten to hold it on to the cable. And I assume I'd simply cut the existing barrel nut off the cable?
Existing barrel nut has an Allen screw in it just un
nope..epic failure!

The barrel nut on the cable is held on via a screw. I removed it, but this new barrel is smaller - barely looks like the cable will even fit and will require trimming the fray at a min. This new OneUp barrel is needed by the post as the existing one that came with the bike is too wide to work. The problem at the moment is figuring out how to get this new OneUp barrel to hold on the cable? There's nothing to tighten it down like what I removed...Both images attatched.

View attachment 67781

View attachment 67780 View attachment 67800
I think you have to put the barrel on the cable so that it effectively enlarges the soldered on stop. So you'll have to thread the cable(with nut attatched) from the seatpost end so the cable comes out at the lever.therefore you will need a new lever as the original works th opposite way.
 

KSL

Member
Jul 10, 2021
186
82
SoCal
Existing barrel nut has an Allen screw in it just un

I think you have to put the barrel on the cable so that it effectively enlarges the soldered on stop. So you'll have to thread the cable(with nut attatched) from the seatpost end so the cable comes out at the lever.therefore you will need a new lever as the original works th opposite way.

New dropper requires a new lever.
 

KennyB

E*POWAH Master
Aug 25, 2019
824
562
Taunton
One up web site has some excellent how to videos that explains it all. Briefly:
Rollers are for travel adjust;
Barrel thing is not a nut, it goes on the nipple end of the cable and on to the actuator at the bottom of the post;
Bare end of the cable is clamped at the lever.
 
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