Orbea Rise - Shimano SC-EM800 Installation

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
Detailed below are installation instructions for installing a Shimano SC-EM800 display on your Rise.

I have created a separate technical article on installing the Shimano SC-E7000 black & white display. Refer to the attached thread for details on installing a SC-E7000 display on your Rise.

One of the things I love about mountain biking is working on and customizing my bikes. I love the process of learning and not being at the mercy of my local bike shop, where I need to wait a week for a repair. We've all been there. I like doing things myself and I hope you feel the same. If you have any questions or need help on something, shoot me a message and I'll do my best to help you out.

Pre-installation Notes:

A)
The SC-EM800 color display only accepts EW-SD300 wire inputs. If your Rise came with a EW-EN100 junction box, then the wiring at the front of your Rise will be EW-SD50 wiring and you will need to convert it to EW-SD300 wiring which will then plug into the SC-EM800 display.

B) Shimano utilizes two types of wires on their eBike systems, the older style EW-SD50 wire and the newer style EW-SD300 wire. The Orbea Rise uses a combination of both wires.

C) Traveling up from the EP8 motor to the EW-AD305 adapter at the headtube, runs a EW-SD300 wire. On the opposite side of the adapter, an EW-SD50 wire is run to the EW-EN100 junction box at the front of the bike. The mode selector switch also utilizes a EW-SD50 wire which plugs into the other side of EW-EN100 junction box.

Screenshot 2021-08-24 12.20.48a.jpg


D) The shortest length of Shimano jumper wire you can purchase for both EW-SD50 and EW-SD300 wiring is 150mm, or 5.90 inches in length.

E) The "EW-AD305" adapter manufactured by Shimano accepts EW-SD50 wiring input on one side of the adapter and EW-SD300 wiring input on the other side of the adapter.

F) You cannot remove the EW-SD50 wiring and run the EW-SD300 wiring through the headtube port without first pushing the dropper post cable housing out of the headtube port. The wire leads on the SD50 and SD300 will not fit through the headtube port if the dropper cable housing is in place, it must be removed by pushing the end into the headtube.

G) *Critical* To push the dropper post cable housing into the headtube, you must release the dropper cable and housing from the dropper post lever. Tension on the dropper cable must be maintained with your fingers or it may disconnect from the base of the dropper post at the actuating lever. If the cable disconnects, there is nothing to keep the cable/housing attached to the dropper post. When you remove the dropper post to fix the issue, the dropper housing and cable will remain deep down inside the seat tube. In most instances, it's quicker and easier to just drop the motor to gain access to the housing so it can be pushed back up for re-attachment. Refer to my tech post on dropping the Rise motor for more details.

To prevent all of the above, I first remove the dropper post entirely from the seat tube. After doing so, I then loosen the dropper post lever clamp and push the dropper housing through the headtube port.

There are two methods of installing the SC-EM800 display on your Rise.

Method One:

Utilize the EW-SD300 wire and EW-AD305 adapter located inside the downtube on your Rise. You will need to drop the front fork to gain access to these items. You will also need to purchase a 150mm, EW-SD300 jumper wire in order to complete the installation.

Method Two:
If you are not mechanically inclined, or don't want to remove the fork, there is an alternative method. This alternative method of installing the SC-EM800 requires you purchase the following items, which are expensive.

1) Buy Two, 150mm EW-SD300 cables
2) Buy Two, EW-AD305 adapters


After buying the above four items, install the SC-EM800 color display on your Rise. Plug the EW-SD50 wire coming off of the mode selector into one of the EW-SD305 adapters you purchased. Plug one end of the 150mm EW-SD300 jumper wire you purchased into the other side of the adapter. Plug the remaining end of EW-SD300 jumper wire into the display. Do the exact same thing to the EW-SD50 coming out of the head tube. Turn on your bike and adjust the display to your settings. Check for firmware updates via the Shimano eTube app.

I've attached pictures of the Shimano parts mentioned in my article for visual reference:

EW-SD50 jumper Wire (Note difference in the leads as compared to the EW-SD300 wire)

Screenshot 2022-01-11 06.52.08.jpg


EW-SD300 Jumper Wire

Screenshot 2022-01-12 09.06.22.jpg


EW-AD305 (Found inside the Rise frame at downtube, near headtube junction)

Screenshot 2022-01-11 06.52.37.jpg


EW-EN100 Junction Box (Found mounted to the dropper post cable housing on the front of bike)

Screenshot 2022-01-11 06.57.37.jpg


Method One, (Drop the Fork) Installation Process:

1)
Place your Rise frame in a bike stand. Mark your dropper post height at the seat post clamp. Loosen the seat post clamp and remove the dropper post from the seat tube. You will have to turn the bike wheel sharply to the left and push/pull the cable housing firmly to remove the dropper post from the seat tube.

2) Disconnect the two EW-SD50 wires from the EW-EN100 junction box and remove the box from the bike.

3) Disconnect the dropper post cable housing and cable from the dropper post seat lever on the handlebar. To do this, you will need to remove the cable crimp at the end of the cable. Free up the dropper post cable housing if it's attached to any other wires or housing. You can use a pair of pliers to install a new crimp when re-installing the dropper post cable housing and cable.

4) Removing the fork is not required, but makes the installation process much easier. You have the option of disconnecting the front brake lever from the handlebar. Take it, the fork and front wheel off as one unit and set them aside. Another option is to remove the front wheel. Remove the front caliper by removing the two bolts holding your front caliper to the fork. Wedge a spacer block between the brake pads on the caliper. Remove the fork's brake hose clamp. Re-thread the small screw into the fork to prevent it from becoming lost. Wrap the caliper in a soft rag and with tape, attach it out of the way on the bike, so it doesn't bang around. Drop the fork and set it aside.

5) To remove the fork, loosen the stem clamp bolts. Loosen and completely remove the stem top cap and bolt. Pay attention to your stem spacers, their sizes, and if their orientation above or below the stem. A picture taken with your phone helps. You want to reinstall the spacers in the correct orientation when you re-install the fork and stem. Because the stem bolts have been loosened and the stem top cap has been removed, it is possible for the fork to suddenly fall out of the frame when you remove the stem top cap. Normally it will take a slight bit of tapping with your hand or rubber mallet to get the fork steerer tube past the headset bearings. Just in case however, keep a hand on the fork as you remove the stem top cap, so the fork doesn't accidentally drop out of the frame and become damaged by hitting the floor.

6) When you remove the fork from the headtube, the upper headset bearing cap and seal will come off. The Rise comes with an Acros Integrated Headset. The upper headset bearing may also come out, but will likely stay in the frame's carbon fiber frame integrated bearing cup. Remove the upper headset bearing from the frame by grabbing it with your fingers and rock it slightly back and forth until it comes out. Place your headset items off to the side so they don't accidentally get knocked about and lost.

With a rag, clean out the integrated bearing cup. I've attached a picture of an Acros upper headset. I know the people in Great Britain like to ride when it's as absolutely wet as hell. The picture depicts a soaking wet headset to make you feel more comfortable.


Screenshot 2022-01-11 07.58.59.jpg


Your lower headset bearing may come off with the fork or remain inside the lower headtube bearing cup. Remove the lower bearing if it remains in the frame. During the re-installation process, you want to inspect your headset bearings and repack with grease if needed.

7) With fork removed, use a light to shine inside the headtube. You will see the dropper cable housing and the EW-SD50 cable. You will notice they are held to the inside wall of the frame headtube by two loops molded into the inside wall of the headtube. These loops prevent the EW-SD50 wire and dropper post cable housing from coming into contact with the fork steerer tube and damaging the wire and or housing.

8) The EW-SD50 wire and dropper post cable housing exit the headtube via a small port in the headtube wall. The large leads on the EW-SD50 cable prevent the cable from being removed from the headtube without first removing the dropper cable housing. Why Orbea didn't design the left port like the right port side is a design flaw.

IMG_0726.JPG


9) Begin the process of slowly backing the dropper post cable housing into the headtube and just slightly into the inside of the headtube. Try not to push the dropper post cable housing past the small molded retainer loop. It's fiddly to get back through the loop if you do this.

Once the dropper post cable housing is pushed inside the headtube, it will clear up the headtube port so that the EW-SD50 cable can be removed from the EW-AD305 adapter, and then removed from the bike via the headtube port.

To begin the process of pushing the dropper post cable housing into the headtube, pull upwards on the dropper post cable housing at the seat post tube, while also pushing the housing through the headtube port.

10) Inside the downtube will be a foam wrapped bundle of wires. The exact location of the bundle varies from bike to bike. Mine was located at the junction of the downtube and headtube. I've heard of others being tucked farther down into the downtube. The foam bundle will have a small zip tie holding the bundle tightly together. Within the bundle will be a few feet of EW-SD300 wire, which runs from the motor to one side of the EW-AD305 adapter. On the other side of the adapter is a EW-SD50 wire which runs from the adapter to the EW-EN100 junction box.

11) Slowly pull on the EW-SD50 wire until the foam bundle appears and has been brought up into the headtube. Cut the zip tie and remove it and the foam padding to gain access to the wires. Remove the EW-SD50 wire from the adapter and remove the wire from the bike. Remove the EW-SD300 wire from the other side of the EW-SD305 adapter. Place the adapter off to the side as you will need it later on in the installation process.

The EW-SD300 wire from the motor is long enough to be run directly to the SC-EM800 display. Push the EW-SD300 wire through the molded retaining loop located on the inside wall of the headtube and out the head tube port. Measure from the headtube port, approximately eight inches/205mm of EW-SD300 wire. Run the EW-SD300 wire to SC-EM800 computer display mounted on the handlebar and plug the lead into the display. You may have additional length of EW-SD300 wire left over. Wrap it back in the foam padding, zip tie it, and tuck it back into the downtube for safe keeping.

Begin The Re-Installation Process

12)
From the headtube side of the bike, hold the dropper post cable housing and cable firmly together with your fingers. Maintain firm tension on the cable. Do not let the cable go slack or it will disconnect from the dropper post. Insert the dropper post into the frame and push it downwards while pulling and guiding the dropper post cable and housing back out of the head tube port and over to the dropper post lever. You will feel a lot of drag on the dropper cable housing as you pull on it. This is due to the cable housing's transition from the seat tube, over the EP8 motor and up the downtube. If slack in the housing occurs and the cable becomes disconnected, you will need to remove the dropper post and reconnect the cable.

13) Insure that both the EW-SD300 wire and the dropper post cable housing have been threaded through the two retaining loops and do not bulge out into the headtube. If they do bulge out, they may possibly rub on the fork steerer tube when it is installed. Eventually this may damage the wire, score the steerer tube, or ruin the dropper cable housing.

14) With a rag, clean the lower headtube integrated bearing cup and apply grease to the bearing cup. Inspect the lower headset bearing. The bearing should spin smoothly and easily. You should not feel any grinding or bumpiness as you spin the bearing. Grinding or a notchy feeling indicates a damaged bearing or in need of lubrication.

If the bearing is damaged, it will need to be replaced. If the bearing is simply dry or dirty, you can easily clean and repack a headset bearing with grease. Refer to this YouTube video for reference:



15)
The lower headset seal is located on the fork crown. Examine the rubber part of the seal for damage. If seal has been damaged, the lower seal will need to be replaced. If no damage is noted, clean the seal with a rag and apply a light coating of grease to the seal.

16) The lower headset bearing is angled on one side. Apply grease to the exterior of the bearing and insert the angled side up into the lower integrated bearing cup.

17) Inspect your upper headset bearing for damage. This bearing also has an angled side. Clean the bearing, the headset cap and seal. I like to use isopropyl alcohol or a spray type brake cleaner. Apply a coating of grease to the bearing cup and upper bearing. Insert the bearing into the integrated bearing cup with the angled side down. Apply a light coating of grease to the rubber areas on the upper headset seal and cap.

18) Insert the fork steerer tube into the headset. With the fork steerer tube fully inserted, slide the headset upper seal and upper headset bearing cap onto the steerer tube.

19) Insert your stem spacers in their correct orientation onto the fork steerer tube.

20) Install your stem on the fork steerer tube. Install the stem top cap and bolt. Temporarily, lightly tighten the stem clamping screws to keep the stem from twisting and turning.

21) If you have removed the front brake lever, attach it to the handlebar. If you removed the front brake caliper, re-attach it to the fork with the two caliper screws. Re-attach the brake hose and clamp to the fork.

22) If you removed the front brake caliper, remove the spacer block from the brake caliper and Install your front wheel on the fork using the front axle.

23) Take your bike off the bike stand and set it on the ground. Loosen the stem clamping screws. Center your front wheel and stem. Tighten the stem top cap slowly until all headset play has been removed from the headset. Make sure your stem/handlebars are centered on the front wheel and torque your stem clamp bolts to the correct torque. Tighten your stem top cap. The stem top cap sets headset preload and is not used to secure the stem to the fork steerer tube. The stem clamping screws secure the stem to the fork steerer tube. You don't need to crank down tightly on the stem top cap. Here is a YouTube video detailing how to adjust headset play.


24)
If you previously removed the front brake caliper, you will need to adjust it after having installed the fork, front wheel and brake caliper. Loosen the two front brake caliper screws slightly so that the caliper can move. Apply the front brake lever. This will center the brake caliper on the rotor. Tighten the two brake caliper screws. If you spin the front wheel and experience a rubbing noise caused by the brake rotor rubbing on the brake pads, you will need to re-loosen the brake caliper screws and manually adjust the caliper side to side and tighten the screws. You may need to repeat this procedure until you can get the rubbing noise to stop.

25) The SC-EM800 display comes with two different sized clamps. The clamp is held onto the display via a small hex screw. Remove the screw and install the correct diameter clamp that will work with your handlebar. Install the display to the right of the stem on your handlebar.

26) Take the EW-SD50 mode selector switch wire and plug it into one side of the EW-AD305 adapter you previously removed from the downtube. Take the 150mm EW-SD300 jumper wire you purchased and plug it into the other side of the EW-AD305 adapter and the other end of the wire into the display.

27) Take the EW-SD300 cable coming from out of the headtube port and plug it into the SC-EM800 display.

28) Secure the wring to prevent it from flopping about or getting snagged on a branch while riding.

29) Turn your bike On and check that the display is working. The display will automatically turn on when the bike is turned on.

30) Adjust the display settings as needed. Do any display firmware updates as needed. To check for firmware updates, open the Shimano eTube app on your phone and connect to your Rise. The app will recognize the new display and will let you know if any update is required.

Screenshot 2022-01-12 11.52.24.jpg


31) You have several options for securing the wiring to and from the SC-EM800 display and mode selector switch. You can use silicone bands to attach the wires to the handlebars. You can also use electrical shrink tubing or zip ties to secure the wiring to the cable housing and run it to the display.

I've attached pictures depicting attaching the wiring to the handlebar with silicone bands and also the method of using heat shrink tubing to attach the wiring to the dropper post cable housing.

I sincerely hope you have enjoyed this tech article. If you have any questions, shoot me a message.

To avoid confusion with the pictures, my buddy's bike and my bike are the same color. I have a SC-E7000 display, he has a SC-EM800 display. Both the EM800 and E7000 are sold out everywhere in the United States and very hard to find. Shimano prohibits European bike shops/vendors from selling to USA buyers. My buddy bought his display from a vendor on eBay.

My buddy's Rise. I avoided using bands on the handlebar by using heat shrink tubing to secure the wiring to the dropper post housing.
IMG_0690.JPG


IMG_0688.JPG



I use heat shrink tubing to attach my front brake hose to my dropper post cable housing. It provides a very clean look. I didn't want to redo the heat shrink tubing when I installed my SC-E7000 display. I instead attached the wiring to my handlebar with silicone rubber bands purchased off of Amazon. This method also works well.
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GTBusso

Member
Dec 26, 2021
41
19
Hitchin
Thanks for putting this guide up, top info.
I‘ve just had my forks out to why sort of excess cable there is coming from the motor. I can see the foam that protecting the junction box, but there doesnt appear to be any excess cable length as mentioned in the OP. I daren’t pull on the junction box too hard as I don’t have the chainring tool yet should something come undone in the down tube.

I use an app on my Garmin watch fro the mode and battery level, so I’m probably putting some Santa Cruz Di2 bars on so I can clean the cockpit up by hiding the cables and box inside the bars. The bars have one hole to the right of the stem and another hole under the left grip that also has a channel for cable to sit in for the mode controller. If there’s no excess length in the motor to junction box cable, the motor and battery are going to have to come out to allow me to pull the junction box out of the head tube. Surely Orbea wouldn’t expect someone to drop the battery just so they could get their hands on the junction box?. I’d be replacing the SD50 cable that goes to the En100 box with a longer length, around 80cm.

I’d need the longer SD50 cable as the idea is to bring that out on the left bar end, connect to the en100 and then push it all inside the bars, so only a bit of cable from the head tube into the bars would visible.

Does having the en100 inside the bar end sound feasible? I tried wrapping the box in thick plastic and still got a signal up to 15 metres away. Anyone done this?
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
GTBusso,

I've attached my answers in red to your questions. I hope they help. Feel free to contact me if you have any additional questions, I'm happy to help.

I‘ve just had my forks out to why sort of excess cable there is coming from the motor. I can see the foam that protecting the junction box, but there doesn't appear to be any excess cable length as mentioned in the OP. I daren’t pull on the junction box too hard as I don’t have the chainring tool yet should something come undone in the down tube.

Answer:
You will find the excess SD300 wire coiled into a bundle and tucked inside the foam pad. Also inside the foam pad is a EW-AD305 adapter which converts the SD300 motor control wire to SD50 wire. Orbea has left enough slack in the SD300 wire for you to pull the foam padding up into the headtube with no issues. You don't want to yank on the wire. A gentle pulling of the wire to bring the foam padding up into the headtube won't hurt. Your good to go brother....

Detailed Answer: The EP8 motor uses a SD300 wire to control the motor. This is the wire running up the downtube from the motor to the foam padding. A Rise can come with either a EW-EN100 junction box (Uses SD50 wire), or a SC-EM800 display (Uses SD300 wire). If the Rise comes with a SC-EM800 display, factory assemblers run the EW-SD300 motor control wire up the downtube, through the headtube and straight to the SC-EM800 display mounted on the handlebar. However.....if the bike comes with a EW-EN100 junction box which uses only SD50 wire, then Orbea has to convert the SD300 motor control wire to SD50 wire. Orbea does this by using a EW-AD305 adapter. Orbea assemblers run the SD300 motor control wire up the downtube and almost to the headtube, where they coil all of the excess unused SD300 wire into a bundle and wrap it in foam padding. Also inside the foam pad is the AD305 adapter. The wire running from the EN100 junction box plugs into the AD305 adapter located inside the form padding.

Screenshot 2022-01-23 20.58.12.jpg


I use an app on my Garmin watch for the mode and battery level, so I’m probably putting some Santa Cruz Di2 bars on so I can clean the cockpit up by hiding the cables and box inside the bars. The bars have one hole to the right of the stem and another hole under the left grip that also has a channel for cable to sit in for the mode controller. If there’s no excess length in the motor to junction box cable, the motor and battery are going to have to come out to allow me to pull the junction box out of the head tube. Surely Orbea wouldn’t expect someone to drop the battery just so they could get their hands on the junction box?. I’d be replacing the SD50 cable that goes to the En100 box with a longer length, around 80cm.

Answer: Because you are going to use the EN100 junction box, all you need to do is unplug the SD50 wire at the adapter (Located inside the foam pad) and install a longer SD50 wire to work with the Santa Cruz Di2 bars. Shimano sells the SD50 wire in various lengths, so you shouldn't have an issue with finding a length that will work for your application.

I’d need the longer SD50 cable as the idea is to bring that out on the left bar end, connect to the en100 and then push it all inside the bars, so only a bit of cable from the head tube into the bars would visible.

Does having the en100 inside the bar end sound feasible? I tried wrapping the box in thick plastic and still got a signal up to 15 metres away. Anyone done this?

Answer: I think you can do this, however you need to check one thing to be sure. Carbon fiber can play hell with Bluetooth reception. Besides the EN100 junction box showing mode lights, it all works as a Bluetooth device to sync up with the E-Tube app on your phone. The E-Tube app allows you to do updates, check error codes, set rider profiles, etc. I would suggest plugging the junction box inside the handlebar and then see if you can connect to the E-Tube app on your phone. If you can, I say go for it.
 

GTBusso

Member
Dec 26, 2021
41
19
Hitchin
Hi Rod,

Thanks for the detailed answer, I’ll let you know how I get on with the signal. Looks like a 950mm cable is going to be needed, 750mm will be just too short to work with. Edit- thinking about it, I’ll need a good amount of excess cable to be able to take the bars off the stem without them hanging only from a thin SD50 cable.

Here’s a pic of the foam in my headtube. iPhone flash didn’t want to play ball, but I think you can just see the cable exiting the foam up and over the battery holder plate.
Is this what you’d expect to see? It doesn’t seem like there’s much room in that foam to coil any extra cable up in.
Things to buy today, a bendy or very small torch and a sliver of mirror😁
008E7A4E-4E4C-43A1-9AB9-2476D4C8CB62.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
Hi Rod,

Thanks for the detailed answer, I’ll let you know how I get on with the signal. Looks like a 950mm cable is going to be needed, 750mm will be just too short to work with. Edit- thinking about it, I’ll need a good amount of excess cable to be able to take the bars off the stem without them hanging only from a thin SD50 cable.

Here’s a pic of the foam in my headtube. iPhone flash didn’t want to play ball, but I think you can just see the cable exiting the foam up and over the battery holder plate.
Is this what you’d expect to see? It doesn’t seem like there’s much room in that foam to coil any extra cable up in.
Things to buy today, a bendy or very small torch and a sliver of mirror😁 View attachment 80601
Yes, that’s exactly what mine looks like. The SD300 wire is very thin. Orbea coils the wire up, squeezes it into a tight bungle and tucks it into the foam pad. The zip tie further compresses the bundle.

You do not have to remove the SD300 wire from the foam pad. You should be able to pull the foam pad up for access. then pull the SD50 wire out of the foam pad to get access to the adapter and plug your new wire into it. You may have to cut the zip tie and install a new one when your done. That’s what I did.

You’re doing awesome.
 

GTBusso

Member
Dec 26, 2021
41
19
Hitchin
Excellent, cheers Rod, I’ll have another dabble on Wednesday night by which time I’ll have a longer SD50 cable aswell.
Current plan is to grab some old grips, drill a small hole in the end, enough to get the cable through, stuff the EN100 inside the bars and see if the BLE signal gets through. If it does, I’ll buy the SC DI2 bars.
By the way, I’ve done loads of frame bearings on all sorts of bikes, but I still enjoyed reading your recent guide. Really comprehensive and easy for folk to do their own👍
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
Excellent, cheers Rod, I’ll have another dabble on Wednesday night by which time I’ll have a longer SD50 cable aswell.
Current plan is to grab some old grips, drill a small hole in the end, enough to get the cable through, stuff the EN100 inside the bars and see if the BLE signal gets through. If it does, I’ll buy the SC DI2 bars.
By the way, I’ve done loads of frame bearings on all sorts of bikes, but I still enjoyed reading your recent guide. Really comprehensive and easy for folk to do their own👍
Brother, you made my day. Keep me posted on the Santa Cruz bar installation. I was looking hard at those bars for my Rise. I like having the ability to hide the wiring inside the handlebar. Such a good idea!
 

GTBusso

Member
Dec 26, 2021
41
19
Hitchin
Okay folks, I’ve done an experiment with stashing the EN100 within the handlebars.
I put a 120cm SD50 cable into the connector that’s in the headtube and have routed it through a drilled hole in the end of an old grip. The En100 is just small enough to go in the handlebars and it’s snug enough that it doesn’t move around, so no need for packing.
I get a signal to my watch and The E-TUBE app fine so far, so I reckon with the Santa Cruz bars, I can get it so the only bit of cable on show is about 4 or 5” coming from headtube into a hole in the bars next to the stem. I’ll have it just long enough that the bars can turn withoutstraining the cable.

The Santa Cruz bars have a hole that’s under the grips and then a channel on the underside of the bar. Should be good.

picking up the Santa Cruz bars tomorrow and I suppose the hole near the stem will allow a little more signal to break through. A lot of effort and money to have a clean cockpit! £27 cable and £140 bars, but what’s a man to do
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GTBusso

Member
Dec 26, 2021
41
19
Hitchin
All sorted👍. Signal is fine, but whereas I would lose it around 15 metres away before, I now lose it at about 9 metres. Not really a biggie, I’m gonna have to be pretty near the bike to ride it😁.
Quite a bit of money just to get rid of 3 rubber rings on the bars and the EN100 out of sight, but worth it. I’ll be wanting AXS stuff next🤦🏻.

Here’s a few piccys and also big thanks to Rod for the guide in this thread, made life much easier/less scary, although I did take the motor out just in case of any cable bind. Let me shorten the dropper cable easier aswell.
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shredjim

Member
May 5, 2021
36
19
White Salmon, WA
I just got a SC-EM 800 display from a friend who bought it from a guy in Europe on eBay and it says "CHINA" under the SC-EM 800 stamp. Is this normal or is this one I got a Chinese knock off? I thought Shimano does all their manufacturing in Japan?
 

chrismechmaster

Well-known member
Subscriber
Dec 7, 2020
793
411
Newbury
All sorted👍. Signal is fine, but whereas I would lose it around 15 metres away before, I now lose it at about 9 metres. Not really a biggie, I’m gonna have to be pretty near the bike to ride it😁.
Quite a bit of money just to get rid of 3 rubber rings on the bars and the EN100 out of sight, but worth it. I’ll be wanting AXS stuff next🤦🏻.

Here’s a few piccys and also big thanks to Rod for the guide in this thread, made life much easier/less scary, although I did take the motor out just in case of any cable bind. Let me shorten the dropper cable easier aswell. View attachment 80979 View attachment 80980 View attachment 80981 View attachment 80982 View attachment 80983
Hi which Santa Cruz bar is this or do all the Santa Cruz bars have the cable holes in them

Cheers
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
The bars are made in house by Santa Cruz. The handlebar is the Di2 Riser Carbon Handlebar. I don't see it for sale on Santa Cruz's website and the asking price is $170. Wahoo!

The forum doesn't always allow links to webpages. Here is a screen grab from Santa Cruz's webpage. There is a USA bike shop in So Cal called The Path that has them in stock for sale. Here is a screen grab from their website. I don't know if they are available in Europe, however there is a guy on PinkBike who is from Britain and is selling a used Santa Cruz Di2 handlebar for 100 GBP. They come stock at 800mm wide, the used bar has been cut down to 760mm.

Cheers

Screenshot 2022-04-16 15.36.10.jpg
Screenshot 2022-04-16 15.45.56.jpg




Screenshot 2022-04-16 15.38.14.jpg
 

SillyPosition

New Member
Mar 26, 2022
54
15
Israel
What’s the real benefit of having this display?
It still doesn’t show percentages like phone or Garmin watch will
qnd also to switch profiles it’s still needed to stop and mess around, so it can be done via phone app as well
Am I missing something here? Is it a hassle doing from phone?
 

chrismechmaster

Well-known member
Subscriber
Dec 7, 2020
793
411
Newbury
I have installed this your right there isn’t any real benefit apart from I like the kind of factory look
And the fact you don’t need to use a phone garmin

on my trek rail I use the Kiox only (no phone ) so wanted the same on the rise so went for the display

but your right compared to a garmin it doesn’t show much info
 

Chefkoch

Member
Nov 18, 2021
8
5
Germany
Detailed below are installation instructions for installing a Shimano SC-EM800 display on your Rise.

I have created a separate technical article on installing the Shimano SC-E7000 black & white display. Refer to the attached thread for details on installing a SC-E7000 display on your Rise.

One of the things I love about mountain biking is working on and customizing my bikes. I love the process of learning and not being at the mercy of my local bike shop, where I need to wait a week for a repair. We've all been there. I like doing things myself and I hope you feel the same. If you have any questions or need help on something, shoot me a message and I'll do my best to help you out.

Pre-installation Notes:

A)
The SC-EM800 color display only accepts EW-SD300 wire inputs. If your Rise came with a EW-EN100 junction box, then the wiring at the front of your Rise will be EW-SD50 wiring and you will need to convert it to EW-SD300 wiring which will then plug into the SC-EM800 display.

B) Shimano utilizes two types of wires on their eBike systems, the older style EW-SD50 wire and the newer style EW-SD300 wire. The Orbea Rise uses a combination of both wires.

C) Traveling up from the EP8 motor to the EW-AD305 adapter at the headtube, runs a EW-SD300 wire. On the opposite side of the adapter, an EW-SD50 wire is run to the EW-EN100 junction box at the front of the bike. The mode selector switch also utilizes a EW-SD50 wire which plugs into the other side of EW-EN100 junction box.

View attachment 79821


View attachment 79833

View attachment 79834


I use heat shrink tubing to attach my front brake hose to my dropper post cable housing. It provides a very clean look. I didn't want to redo the heat shrink tubing when I installed my SC-E7000 display. I instead attached the wiring to my handlebar with silicone rubber bands purchased off of Amazon. This method also works well.
View attachment 79835

Hey Rod,

thx for your detailled Information, which will help with my problem. i don't want to install SC-E7000 but i have to replace the EW-SD50 (Connection between EW-EN100 and Adapter inside the Frame) because ist seems to have a Cable-breakage. Can you remember the length of the original cable, because i want to order a new one and i I don't want to remove the cable first.

Big Thx in advance
Marcus
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
Hey Rod,

thx for your detailled Information, which will help with my problem. i don't want to install SC-E7000 but i have to replace the EW-SD50 (Connection between EW-EN100 and Adapter inside the Frame) because ist seems to have a Cable-breakage. Can you remember the length of the original cable, because i want to order a new one and i I don't want to remove the cable first.

Big Thx in advance
Marcus
Marcus,

The EW-SD50 which travels from the EW-AD305 adapter to the EW-EN100 junction box is 300mm long.

Note:
The EW-SD50 wires running to both sides of the EW-EN100 junction box are exposed and it's very easy for the wires to become accidentally pulled out of their connections at the EW-EN100 junction box or at the EW-AD305 adapter in the headtube. This has happened to me on several occasions while I was working on my bike or traveling through brush.

If you suffer a loss of power on the Rise or loss of green light at the EW-EN100 junction box, always check to insure that the EW-SD50 wires are fully inserted into the EW-EN100 junction box and or, the EW-AD305 adapter which is located inside the frame at the head tube.

If any of the EW-SD50 wires become accidentally disconnected from either the EW-AD305 Adapter or the EW-EN100 Junction Box, the Rise will not work, nor will you get a green light at the EW-EN100 junction box.

Check the EW-AD305 connection:

The EW-AD305 Adapter is located inside the frame at the junction of the down tube and the head tube. The front fork must be removed/lowered from the head tube to gain access to the EW-AD305 adapter. The EW-AD305 adapter and excess EW-SD300 wire coming from the motor will be wrapped in black foam padding. A zip tie will be wrapped around the pad to secure the EW-AD305 adapter and excess wiring.

The assembler at the Orbea factory occasionally tucks the foam pad farther down into the down tube and will be out of view. You may need to pull up on the EW-SD50 wire to retrieve the foam pad/EW-AD305 adapter from the down tube. Once the pad has been retrieved, it's possible to check and push the EW-SD50 wire back into the EW-AD305 adapter without cutting the zip tie and taking the foam pad apart.

If you encounter any issues of have further questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help you out.

Cheers,
Rod

Screenshot 2021-08-24 12.20.48a (1).jpg
 

Chefkoch

Member
Nov 18, 2021
8
5
Germany
Hey Rod,

thx for your reply and the helpful informations. I suspect it's the Cable or the lead, because the cable seems to have a Kink and was always stressed in this area (it's the Bike of my wife, she probably didn't pay attention to that ;-)). I can provoke the interruption, when i hold the Junction-Box still and carefully move the cable in this area. I have orderd both, a new EW-EN100 and a SD50 Cable and will do the change tomorrow.T he biggest challenge will be the dropper post cable, like you described above. I will do it with two pair of hands ;-)

I will report after hopefully a successful operation ;-)

Best regards

Sorry for my bad "german" englisch ;-)

Orbea.PNG
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
Hey Rod,

thx for your reply and the helpful informations. I suspect it's the Cable or the lead, because the cable seems to have a Kink and was always stressed in this area (it's the Bike of my wife, she probably didn't pay attention to that ;-)). I can provoke the interruption, when i hold the Junction-Box still and carefully move the cable in this area. I have orderd both, a new EW-EN100 and a SD50 Cable and will do the change tomorrow.T he biggest challenge will be the dropper post cable, like you described above. I will do it with two pair of hands ;-)

I will report after hopefully a successful operation ;-)

Best regards

Sorry for my bad "german" englisch ;-)

View attachment 96504
Ihr Englisch ist absolut gut. Ich finde es toll, dass zwei Menschen über Fahrräder reden können, trotz unserer Sprachunterschiede und der Entfernung von Tausenden von Kilometern.

As you've mentioned, your biggest issue will be pushing the dropper post cable housing into the head tube so that the EW-SD50 cable can be removed and the new one installed through the small headtube port. The SD50 cable cannot be installed without first removing the dropper post cable housing from the head tube port.

1662476301692.png


I find it best to pull the dropper seat post out of the frame far enough so that the end of the dropper post cable housing is about 25mm above the seat post tube opening. If the dropper post cable should accidentally become disconnected from the dropper post, you will have access to it.

IMPORTANT: When removing the dropper seat post or when re-installing the dropper seat post, ALWAYS keep a tight tension on the dropper post cable. If tension is not kept on the cable, it will easily disconnect from the dropper post actuator. When you pull the dropper post back out of the frame to reconnect the dropper cable, the dropper post cable housing will remain stuck down inside the frame. It is almost impossible to retrieve the dropper post cable housing without having to lower the motor on the bike in order to gain access to the dropper cable housing and push it back up the seat tube to reconnect to the dropper post.

KEEP TENSION ON THE DROPPER POST CABLE AFTER IT HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED FROM THE DROPPER POST LEVER.
BEHALTEN SIE DIE SPANNUNG DES KABELS DER TROPPER-SÄTZE, NACHDEM ES VOM HEBEL DER TROPPER-SÄTZE GETRENNT WURDE.

Screenshot 2022-09-06 07.46.31.jpg


The dropper post actuator arm design makes it very easy for the cable to disconnect from the actuator if slack in the cable is allowed to occur. Tension must be kept on the dropper post cable at all times while removing the dropper post and re-inserting the dropper post.

Das Design des Dropper-Post-Aktuatorarms macht es sehr einfach, das Kabel vom Aktuator zu trennen, wenn das Kabel durchhängen darf. Das Kabel der Vario-Sattelstütze muss jederzeit unter Spannung stehen, während die Vario-Sattelstütze entfernt und wieder eingesetzt wird.

Screenshot 2022-09-06 07.45.40 (2).jpg




Use your fingers to always keep a slight tension on the dropper cable itself and not just the cable housing. Once the end of the dropper post cable housing as been raised above the seat post tube, you can release tension. When reinserting the dropper post, pull tension on the dropper post cable and maintain tension until the cable has been connected to the dropper post lever on the handlebar.

If the dropper cable disconnects from the dropper post, it will do what is pictured below and your dropper post cable housing will remain down inside the seat post tube.

Dropper-Kabel selbst und nicht nur an der Kabelhülle. Sobald das Ende der Zughülle der Vario-Sattelstütze über das Rohr der Sattelstütze angehoben wurde, können Sie die Spannung lösen. Ziehen Sie beim Wiedereinsetzen der Dropper Post Spannung am Dropper Post-Kabel und halten Sie die Spannung aufrecht, bis das Kabel mit dem Dropper Post-Hebel am Lenker verbunden ist.

Wenn sich das Vario-Kabel von der Vario-Sattelstütze löst, geschieht dies wie unten abgebildet, und die Kabelhülle Ihrer Vario-Sattelstütze bleibt unten im Rohr der Sattelstütze.

Screenshot 2022-09-06 07.44.35.jpg


If you have any questions or issues, shoot me a message and I'll help. Seien Sie sicher und viel Glück,
Rod
 

RustyIron

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Jun 5, 2021
1,476
2,345
La Habra, California
You cracked me up with the comment about the wet headset. I was getting ready to ask you WTF it was raining in your garage.

Gonna help a buddy with this project in a couple hours. Wish us well.
 

RustyIron

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Jun 5, 2021
1,476
2,345
La Habra, California
Ok, Mister @Rod B.
All finished. It took less than three hours, which included plenty of BS'ing and beer drinking. I'll throw in my two pence, not because I know anything, but because I know nothing and was apprehensive about doing this project. Perhaps my experience will encourage other apprehensive people that it's possible to install a proper computer on their Orbeas.

I'll agree that the most difficult part was pulling the seatpost. It's not that pulling a seatpost is difficult, it's that the whole job is pretty straight forward. I don't recall if Rod suggested replacing the dropper cable, but since they're only a couple bucks, have one on hand. I don't like reusing cables that have been previously clamped.

To summarize the REAL work:
Drop the fork. Unplug the adapter you find in the head tube. Unplug the fat jumper wire that goes to Orbeas little control box. Unplug the control box from the up/down switch on the bars. Set aside all these parts.

Install the computer on the bars. Pull the long skinny wire from the head tube, and plug it into the computer. Take the fat wire from the up/down switch, and connect it to the new jumper wire that you got from Shimano, using the adapter that you set aside from the last paragraph. Plug the new Shimano jumper into the computer.

BOOM! You're done.

Bottom line:
If you can route cables through your frame, you can install/adjust a dropper post, and you can figure out which cable will connect your iPhone to the charger, then you're good-to-go.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
Ok, Mister @Rod B.
All finished. It took less than three hours, which included plenty of BS'ing and beer drinking. I'll throw in my two pence, not because I know anything, but because I know nothing and was apprehensive about doing this project. Perhaps my experience will encourage other apprehensive people that it's possible to install a proper computer on their Orbeas.

I'll agree that the most difficult part was pulling the seatpost. It's not that pulling a seatpost is difficult, it's that the whole job is pretty straight forward. I don't recall if Rod suggested replacing the dropper cable, but since they're only a couple bucks, have one on hand. I don't like reusing cables that have been previously clamped.

To summarize the REAL work:
Drop the fork. Unplug the adapter you find in the head tube. Unplug the fat jumper wire that goes to Orbeas little control box. Unplug the control box from the up/down switch on the bars. Set aside all these parts.

Install the computer on the bars. Pull the long skinny wire from the head tube, and plug it into the computer. Take the fat wire from the up/down switch, and connect it to the new jumper wire that you got from Shimano, using the adapter that you set aside from the last paragraph. Plug the new Shimano jumper into the computer.

BOOM! You're done.

Bottom line:
If you can route cables through your frame, you can install/adjust a dropper post, and you can figure out which cable will connect your iPhone to the charger, then you're good-to-go.
Awesome job Rob! Cindy is going to love her new SC-EM800 display.
 

volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
331
254
DK
Has anyone seen a good way to fit the SC-E5000 / SC-E5003 on the cockpit?
It looks like it would mess up the area around the left brake because there isn't room, and the SW-EN600-L isn't compatible with the old EP8 motor (total dumbass move from Shimano IMO) so it's the only way to have a minimap functional screen with as little clutter as possible as far as I can see.
I wish we could just get something really simple like battery % (or a few more LEDs) to indicate battery and an LED for mode, and then a switch that is compatible with EP8, but I guess that's too much to ask for.
 

scarl

Member
Dec 19, 2021
34
4
sacramento
I installed the SC-7000 display a while ago after getting tired of the EW-EN100 and how ugly it is.
I may have frayed the EW-SD50 wire out of the headset - the SC-7000 display shuts off on occasion especially on big switchbacks. It doesn't do it every ride and when it does, it does come back on. I don't want short any thing out. EW-SD 50 has always been very loose and easy to push in and out ( I avoid pulling and pushing it). I have long lost the retaining clip the keeps the dropper cable and ew-sd50 wire in check. I know someone mentioned the EW-SD300 and EW-SD50 are very fragile it seems to me if the connection are either plugged in or not -so that's why I'm guessing its a frayed wire but not sure
Question - has this happed to anyone - looking for solutions here - I want to pull fork and check connections and over all wire conditions but not sure I can view wires / connections through headtube.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
I installed the SC-7000 display a while ago after getting tired of the EW-EN100 and how ugly it is.
I may have frayed the EW-SD50 wire out of the headset - the SC-7000 display shuts off on occasion especially on big switchbacks. It doesn't do it every ride and when it does, it does come back on. I don't want short any thing out. EW-SD 50 has always been very loose and easy to push in and out ( I avoid pulling and pushing it). I have long lost the retaining clip the keeps the dropper cable and ew-sd50 wire in check. I know someone mentioned the EW-SD300 and EW-SD50 are very fragile it seems to me if the connection are either plugged in or not -so that's why I'm guessing its a frayed wire but not sure
Question - has this happed to anyone - looking for solutions here - I want to pull fork and check connections and over all wire conditions but not sure I can view wires / connections through headtube.
Scarl,

I’m sorry it took me so long to respond. I was on a bike trip and didn’t check my email notifications. I’ve encountered this on my Rise and my friend‘s Rises. The issue is a slightly loose connection in one of the SD-50 jumper wires.

First, check the wire connections at the SC-E7000 display. The will be two wires which plug into the display. One of the wires will come from the mode switch and the other from the head tube port.. If either of these two wires has a bad connection at the display, it will shut your bike off.

Disconnect the wire which comes from the mode switch and plugs into it the display port. Use a Shimano TL-EW02 wire tool to do this. Make sure the connection isn’t crusted up with corrosion which can interrupt the connection. Use the tool to firmly plug the wire back into the display. You should have received this tool in your owners packet that came with the bike.

Next disconnect the SD-50 wire which comes from the head tube and plugs into the display. Check this connection for corrosion and clean if necessary. Plug it back into the display using the tool to firmly plug the wire back into the display.

The main culprit I’ve found is the wire connection at the EW-AD305 adapter down inside the head tube at the down tube. It’s very easy to twist the handlebar in a sharp turn and cause the SD-50 wire to slightly pull out of the EW-AD305 adapter and cause a slight disconnect. A little jiggling on the trail will cause the loss of connection. It will then reestablish a connection, only to loose connection when you hit more trail chatter.

To check the connection, you will need to drop the fork. The adapter will be located tucked inside a foam pad located slightly down inside the down tube. To retrieve the foam pad, you will need to pull on the SD-50 wire and the foam pad will come into view. Pull the adapter out of the foam pad and disconnect and reinsert the SD300 and SD50 wires which plug into the adapter. You should be good to go and have no further issues.

I’m about 90% certain your issue will be a loose connection at the adapter. However, If after dropping the fork you find the SD-50 wire is damaged, it will need to be replaced.. I have multiple posts which go into detail on how to replace the SD-50 jumper wire which travels from the adapter to the SC-E7000 display. You will need to remove the dropper post cable housing from the head tube port before you can replace the SD-50 wire. Please read my posts and the entire thread as it’s easy to run into problems with the dropper post cable during the process.

Note: The EW-AD305 adapter serves a purpose. Shimano uses a SD-300 wire lead for the EP8 motor controls. Orbea utilized the EW-EN100 junction box for the Rise. The EW-EN100 only accepts SD-50 wire connections. Therefore Orbea had to convert the SD-300 motor control wire to a SD-50 wire connection. This is where the EW-AD305 adapter comes into play. The EW-AD305 adapter allows you to plug a SD-300 in one side of the adapter and a SD-50 wire into the other side.

I hope this helps you out. If you have any further questions, just ask.

Be safe,
Rod

Shimano TL-EW02 wire tool

1672529018715.jpeg
 

scarl

Member
Dec 19, 2021
34
4
sacramento
Scarl,

I’m sorry it took me so long to respond. I was on a bike trip and didn’t check my email notifications. I’ve encountered this on my Rise and my friend‘s Rises. The issue is a slightly loose connection in one of the SD-50 jumper wires.

First, check the wire connections at the SC-E7000 display. The will be two wires which plug into the display. One of the wires will come from the mode switch and the other from the head tube port.. If either of these two wires has a bad connection at the display, it will shut your bike off.

Disconnect the wire which comes from the mode switch and plugs into it the display port. Use a Shimano TL-EW02 wire tool to do this. Make sure the connection isn’t crusted up with corrosion which can interrupt the connection. Use the tool to firmly plug the wire back into the display. You should have received this tool in your owners packet that came with the bike.

Next disconnect the SD-50 wire which comes from the head tube and plugs into the display. Check this connection for corrosion and clean if necessary. Plug it back into the display using the tool to firmly plug the wire back into the display.

The main culprit I’ve found is the wire connection at the EW-AD305 adapter down inside the head tube at the down tube. It’s very easy to twist the handlebar in a sharp turn and cause the SD-50 wire to slightly pull out of the EW-AD305 adapter and cause a slight disconnect. A little jiggling on the trail will cause the loss of connection. It will then reestablish a connection, only to loose connection when you hit more trail chatter.

To check the connection, you will need to drop the fork. The adapter will be located tucked inside a foam pad located slightly down inside the down tube. To retrieve the foam pad, you will need to pull on the SD-50 wire and the foam pad will come into view. Pull the adapter out of the foam pad and disconnect and reinsert the SD300 and SD50 wires which plug into the adapter. You should be good to go and have no further issues.

I’m about 90% certain your issue will be a loose connection at the adapter. However, If after dropping the fork you find the SD-50 wire is damaged, it will need to be replaced.. I have multiple posts which go into detail on how to replace the SD-50 jumper wire which travels from the adapter to the SC-E7000 display. You will need to remove the dropper post cable housing from the head tube port before you can replace the SD-50 wire. Please read my posts and the entire thread as it’s easy to run into problems with the dropper post cable during the process.

Note: The EW-AD305 adapter serves a purpose. Shimano uses a SD-300 wire lead for the EP8 motor controls. Orbea utilized the EW-EN100 junction box for the Rise. The EW-EN100 only accepts SD-50 wire connections. Therefore Orbea had to convert the SD-300 motor control wire to a SD-50 wire connection. This is where the EW-AD305 adapter comes into play. The EW-AD305 adapter allows you to plug a SD-300 in one side of the adapter and a SD-50 wire into the other side.

I hope this helps you out. If you have any further questions, just ask.

Be safe,
Rod

Shimano TL-EW02 wire tool

View attachment 103789
Rob
No worries - your post helped me tremendously.
Turns out it was the EW-SD50 but I believe it was at the connection to the display not inside the headset at the EW-AD305 adapter. I tested this theory by jiggling the wire at the adapter and it was fine. When I jiggled the EW-SD50 at the display to kept turning off. I had a couple of freak crashes that caused the EW-SD50 to disconnect so I think it was just wore from pulling in and out. I couldn't duplicate the issue after installing EW-SD50 - so all good now. The biggest problem is the dropper cable was difficult to feed back through the headset and I completed frayed the cable and in the process broke the barrel adjuster at the lever - I didn't realize how fragile they are plus I've never installed a new dropper so this was a learning experience. The post goes down ok but creeps back up. Going to bring it to lbs and see if they can swap out the barrel adjuster and not have to install new cable.
Thanks for your post I wound not have be able to figure it out myself
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
492
836
USA, Orange County Ca.
Rob
No worries - your post helped me tremendously.
Turns out it was the EW-SD50 but I believe it was at the connection to the display not inside the headset at the EW-AD305 adapter. I tested this theory by jiggling the wire at the adapter and it was fine. When I jiggled the EW-SD50 at the display to kept turning off. I had a couple of freak crashes that caused the EW-SD50 to disconnect so I think it was just wore from pulling in and out. I couldn't duplicate the issue after installing EW-SD50 - so all good now. The biggest problem is the dropper cable was difficult to feed back through the headset and I completed frayed the cable and in the process broke the barrel adjuster at the lever - I didn't realize how fragile they are plus I've never installed a new dropper so this was a learning experience. The post goes down ok but creeps back up. Going to bring it to lbs and see if they can swap out the barrel adjuster and not have to install new cable.
Thanks for your post I wound not have be able to figure it out myself.

scarl,

My Rise was my first eBike. I got good at breaking the bike, then figuring out what I broke and how to make it right. Everything is more difficult the first time around. You're doing good. The more we learn. The more experience we gain. The better we become whether riding skills or mechanical knowledge.

If your dropper post is returning slow, it means the dropper cable hasn't been tensioned up enough. The dropper post lever barrel adjuster is used to adjust dropper cable tension. The broken barrel adjuster is the cause of the slow dropper return.

To replace the barrel adjuster, you'll have to disconnect the dropper cable and remove it from the dropper lever. Because the dropper cable is badly frayed at the end, you'll play hell getting it to feed back into the dropper post lever after installing a new barrel adjuster assembly.

If your mechanical skills are limited, then it's not a bad idea that you take your bike to the shop to have the dropper cable and barrel adjuster assembly replaced.

If you do have a bit of mechanical skill, then why not install a new dropper cable and barrel adjuster assembly yourself. Follow the steps I outlined at the beginning of this installation thread. It covers how to avoid running into problems with the dropper post cable. Note, you do not have to replace the dropper housing, you need only replace just the inner dropper cable. It's not an overly difficult process , but it does involve a specific process to be successful.

The dropper post cable is the exact same type of cable used to operate the rear derailleur. Make sure the derailleur cable you purchase is stainless steel and not a zinc cable, which will rust long term and eventually break.

In case you want to try doing this yourself, I'm attaching a parts diagram for the Shimano dropper post lever. A replacement barrel adjuster assembly can be purchased via Part # Y06N98040. A replacement barrel adjuster assembly can be purchased from Amazon for $9.06. If you have an old shifter laying about in your workshop parts bin, you can take the barrel adjuster from the shifter and use it on your dropper post lever.
Screenshot 2023-01-01 07.22.36.jpg



Screenshot 2023-01-01 07.58.42.jpg



Screenshot 2023-01-01 07.51.23.jpg
 

scarl

Member
Dec 19, 2021
34
4
sacramento
Thanks again for the parts list- I'll give the it a go myself. My Rise is my first E-bike as well and I have learned how to fix things - through trail and error ( the hard way). My LBS and my wife ( wife not so much ) gets a good laugh when I try to fix something but end up at his shop anyway. But my trips top the repair shop have become way less frequent - I totally agree with you - if I don't try to fix my Ebike - I'll never learn.
The only part about nervous about it having to drop the motor IF I loose tension on the cable. Time will tell. Live and learn .

I'm sure I can ride my Rise as is but the dropper post will get annoying quickly. However I'm in NorCal - the rain has been epic lately - the trails are as bad as I've ever seen them. Can't see riding my Rise in the muck. Love my Rise and put 2000 mikes on it since bought it 1 year ago - although I do enjoy riding my 28 pound Stump Jumper on occasion - up hill on it not so much.
 

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